I 


GEORGE  W PINE, 


(See  Page  349.) 


. 


. 


BEYOND  THE  WEST; 


AH  ACCOUNT  OF  TWO  YEARS’  TRAVEL  IN  THAT  OTHER  HALF 
OF  OUR  GREAT  CONTINENT  FAR  BEYOND 


THE  OLD  WEST, 

ON  THE  PLAINS,  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS,  AND  PICTUR- 
ESQUE  PARKS  OF  COLORADO, 

ALSO, 

CHARACTERISTIC  FEATURES  OF  NEW  MEXICO,  ARI20NA,  WYO 
MING,  MONTANA,  IDAHO,  EASTERN  AND  WESTERN  ORE- 
GON, UTAH,  NEVADA,  AND  THE  SUNSET  LAND, 

CALIFORNIA  THE  END  OF  TOE  WEST. 

ITS  PRESENT  CONDITION,  PEOPLE,  RESOURCES,  SOIL,  CLIMATE,  * 
MOUNTAIN  RANGES,  VALLEYS,  DESERTS,  MORMONS,  GREAT 
SALT  LAKE,  AND  OTHER  INLAND  WATERS,  THE 

G R E A T C O N T I N E N T A L R A I L R 0 A P , 

ra«ETH£:H  WITH 

THE  REMARKABLE  MINERAL  DEPOSITS,  AND  MOST  WONDER- 
FUL NATURAL  SCENERY  IN  THE  WORLD,  BOTH 
ENTERTAINING  AND  INSTRUCTIVE. 


BY  GEORGE  W.  PINE. 


FOURTH  EDITION , REVISED  AND  ENLARGED. 


BUFFALO , N.  V. 

PUBLISHED  AND  PRINTED  BY  BANE  R,  JONES  & CO. 

220  & 222  WASHINGTON  STREET. 

1873. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1870,  by 
GEORGE  W.  PINE, 

In  the  office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 

« 

' 

0 


PREFACE. 


Twenty  odd  years  ago,  little  was  known  of  that 
somewhat  mysterious  part  of  our  continent,  lying  far 
beyond  our  ideas  of  the  Old  West,  except  as  the  far-off 
land  of  the  Indian,  the  hunter  and  trapper,  the  furs 
and  the  home  of  the  buffalo.  One  great  blank  book — 
mostly  without  a preface — with  a few  scratches,  here 
and  there  only,  on  the  title  page.  But  how  diligently 
and  understandingly  the  types  were  made,  set  up  and 
electrotyped,  within  a few  years  past.  We  see  the 
now  unabridged  edition,  bound  in  a style  more  useful 
than  ornamental,  (not  yet  gilt  edged,)  but  nicely 
sprinkled  and  held  together  with  the  great  civilizer — 
iron  rails.  As  all  the  families  of  men  have  an  interest 
in  the  occupation  and  development  of  this,  now  our 
New  West,  everybody  wants  a volume  of  this — Na- 
ture’s remarkable  edition. 

To  supply  a demand  which  now  exists  for  cheap, 
comprehensive  and  reliable  information,  with  regard 
to  that  other  half  of  our  great  continent,  lying  be- 
yond the  Old  West,  this  work  has  been  prepared  and 
is- now  placed  before  the  reading  community.  In  the 
spring  of  1865,  the  author  found  himself  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Missouri  River,  at  Atchinson,  seated  in  an 


1 • Pit  EF  ACE. 

overland  stage  for  the  Pacific.  Having  made  exten- 
sive travels  in  various  parts  of  the  country  during  the 
season,  he  took  the  steamer  from  San  Francisco  to 
Panama,  and  from  Central  America  to  New  York. 
A year  and  a half  of  home  life,  in  the  picturesque  and 
historic  Valley  of  the  Mohawk,  had  served  only  to 
increase  a desire  to  revisit  these  vast  and  interesting 
regions;  so  full  of  geographical  and  historical  infor- 
mation ; so  replete  with  scenes  of  wonder  and  beau- 
ty; sublime,  yet  ugly ; magnificent,  yet  rough  ; beau- 
tiful, yet  mean  ; which  can  be  found  in  no  other  coun- 
try— somewhat  of  the  kind  the  Grecian  poets  gave  a 
local  habitation  on  the  northern  coast  of  Africa,  as 
peculiarly  the  unknown  land  of  mysteries. 

“ Here  they  placed  the  delightful  gardens  of  Hespe- 
rides,  whoSe  trees  bore  apples  of  pure  gold  ; there 
dwelt  the  terrible  Gorgon,  whose  snaky  tresses  turn- 
ed all  things  into  stone;  there  the  invincible  Hercu- 
les wrestled  and  overthrew  the  mighty  Antaeus ; there 
the  weary  Atlas  supported  the  ponderous  arch  of 
Heaven  on  his  stalwart  shoulders.” 

This  poetical  effusion,  unbridled  as  it  is,  has  a coun- 
terpart in  many  places  through  this  other  part  of  our 
country.  The  many  peculiarly  interesting  objects, 
its  wonderful  formations ; its  mysteries,  scattered  ev- 
erywhere on  the  surface,  and  also  imbedded  in  the 
granite  hills,  furnish  abundant  material  to  interest 
the  curious,  and  to  demand  cf  the  intelligent  traveler, 


. PREFACE.  ^ 

and  the  most  scientific,  the  profoundest  knowledge 
and  remain  mysteries  still. 

Also,  Nature’s  great  banking  systems,  in  the  deep 
recesses  of  the  mountain  ranges,  where  the  precious 
metals  are  deposited  quite  past  finding  out  by  hu- 
man intelligence.  Indeed,  very  much  of  the  country 
is  yet  Nature’s  wide-spread  blank  book,  to  be  filled 
up  by  future  generations.  With  all  our  facilities  of 
travel  and  general  information,  it  must  be  a long  time 
before  our  people  can  have  an  adequate  conception 
of  these  vast  regions  of  our  goodly  heritage.  No 
traveler’s  pen  can  properly  describe  many  of  the  ob- 
jects presented  here.  The  reader  can  have  at  most 
but  the  best  efforts  of  an  honest  purpose. 

Again  : In  the  early  spring  of  1867,  we  crossed  the 
muddy  Missouri  at  Omaha,  and  viewed  with  renewed 
pleasure  the  great,  shining  face  of  the  setting  sun,  as 
it  went  down  behind  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

The  steamship  of  the  desert  was  now  ready  to 
start  on  the  world’s  highway — the  change  was  an 
agreeable  one,  after  mv  previous  experience — but  the 
road  was  finished  only  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles, 
at  the  end  of  which  the  old  stage  was  ready  to  impress 
upon  our  mind  and  body  more  firmly  the  hard  expe- 
rience ot  time  gone  by.  I had  seen  just  enough  of 
this  other  half  of  our  remarkable  continent,  to  in- 
crease a desire  to  largely  extend  my  travels  and  be- 
come more  acquainted  with  the  general  characteristic 
features  of  the  country. 


Vi  PREFACE. 

The  substance  of  the  knowledge  thus  acquired  dur 
ing  these  travels,  is  now  offered  to  the  reader — in  as 
condensed  a form  as  the  limits  of  this  book  permit- 
ted— hoping  that  you  will  be  interested  in  its  con- 
tents, and  your  knowledge  of  the  country  enlarged ; 
if  so,  the  object  of  the  author  will  have  been  accom- 
plished, and  his  years  of  travel  and  deprivation,  away 
from  civilization  much  of  the  time,  will  have  been 
amply  rewarded.  We  have  not  designed  to  make  a 
connected  travel,  to  fill  up  valuable  space  with  the 
multiplicity  of  little  domestic  matters,  which  are  con- 
stantly occurring  while  journeying  in  the  oriental 
way,  as  those  have  done  who  have  written  their  trav- 
els over  this  country. 

We  have  purposed  to  give  substance,  rather  than 
lengthy  descriptions ; to  abbreviate  sufficiently  to 
make  a book  that  would  come  within  the  means  of 
all  who  wish  to  read.  Not,  however,  unconscious  of 
inability  to  do  justice  to  such  an  undertaking,  I leave 
the  work  to  secure  the  favor  which  earnest  endeavor 
ever  receives  from  a discriminating  public. 

o AUTHOR. 

Herkimer,  August,  1870. 


Pagb 

Portrait  op  Author, Frontispiece, 

Summit  Tunnel  Sierras,  .......  849 

Omaha, 49 

Montgomery  City  and  Mount  Lincoln,  ...  85 

Buffalo  Hunt, ...  180 

Beaver  Springing  a Trap, 168 

Indian  Medicine  Man, 268 


Bear  Taking  Meat  from  Under  the  Head  of  the 

Hunter, 280 


Brigham  Young, 310 

Mormon  Tabernacle, 322 

Lake  Tahoe, 382 

Sacramento,  . 388 


VIII  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Mammoth  Tree,  33  Ft.  Diameter  and  450  Ft.  High,  399 

Foot  op  Trail— Yo-  Semite,  409 

* 

Yo  Semite  Falls, 413 

Geyser' Springs  Hotel,  . 420 

Witch’s  Caldron, 422 

Crystal  Chapel,  ....  ...  442 

The  Pulpit, 443 

Sea  Lions  and  their  Young  upon  a Large  Rock— 

The.  Entrance  op  San  Francisco  Bay,  . . . 46S 

Pelican  Island,  Opposite  Golden  Gate,  . . Finis. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Pagb 


Introductory  Remarks, 13 

CHAPTER  II. 

The  Discovery  of  the  American  Continent,  . . 16 

CHAPTER  III. 

its  First  Settlement, 38 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Where  is  the  West? 44 

CHAPTER  V. 

The  North-West  Passage  Discovered,  ...  48 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Omaha  and  Nebraska, 49 

CHAPTER  VII. 

The  Plains, 51 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Denver  City,  . 56 

CHAPTER  IX. 

The  Mountain  Ranges, 58 

CHAPTER  X. 

Ascent  of  Pike’s  Peak, 00 

CHAPTER  XI. 

The  Road  to  South  Park, 77 


X CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER 

Mount  Lincoln,  .... 

XII. 

85 

CHAPTER 
The  Middle  Park,  . 

XIII. 

90 

CHAPTER 

The  North  Park. 

XIV. 

97 

CHAPTER 

Colorado’s  Mining  Resources, 

XV. 

101 

CHAPTER  XVI. 
Agricultural  Resources  of  Colorado, 

111 

CHAPTER 
Climate  of  Colorado,  . 

XVII. 

116 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

New  Mexico  Generally, 

119 

CHAPTER 

The  Buffaloes, 

XIX. 

130 

CHAPTER 

XX. 

Arizona  Boundaries,  Early  History,  Physical  Aspect, 
Agricultural  and  Mineral  Resources,  . 

143 

CHAPTER 
Trapping  Beaver,  . 

XXI. 

167 

CHAPTER 

From  Denver  to  Cheyenne,  . 

XXII. 

175 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Wyoming  Territory — Her  Legislature  the  First  to 
Extend  to  Woman  the  Elective  Franchise,  . 170 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Montana,  Agricultural  and  Mining  Resources,  Histo- 
ry and  Climate, 183 


CONTENTS.  xi 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

Idaho,  Shoshonee  Falls,  Boise  City,  Idaho  City,  Owy- 
hee Quartz  Mills,  and  Characteristic  Features 
of  the  Country, 201 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Eestern  Oregon,  Soil,  Climate,  Resources  and  Gen- 
eral Features.  . 211 

CHAPTER  XXVII.* 

Western  Oregon,  Portland,  Wallamet  Riyer  and  Val- 
ley, its  Unusual  Pjkoductiveness,  Heavy  Forests, 
Extensive  F sheries,  Climate,  Scenery,  Columbia 


River, 224 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

The  Louisiana  Purchase, 251 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 


Indian  Tribes,  Character  and  Habits,  ....  256 

CHAPTER  XXX. 

Indians  make  a Raid  on  the  Road,  A Week  at  Elkhorn 
Station,  The  Hunter  and  Trapper,  Incidents  in 
his  Life, 271 

CHAPTER  XXXI. 

The  Road  from  Cheyenne,  Church  Bute,  up  and  oyer 
the  Wilderness  of  Mountain  Ranges,  Upon  the 
Summit,  Down  the  Pacific  Slope,  Remarkable 
Rock  Formations,  Echo  Canyon,  Weber  Valley, 
Mormon  Settlements, 290 

CHAPTER  XXXII. 

The  Union  Pacific  Company,  Early  History,  Construc- 
tion and  Completion, 341 

CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

The  Central  Pacific  Company,  Origin  and  Construc- 
tion,   347 


xil  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

Connecting  the  two  Roads, 351 

CHAPTER  XXXV. 

Nevada,  Mines  and  Mining,  Agricultural  Products 
and  Physical  Aspects, 359 

CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

Journey  to  the  Hot  Springs,  Road  to  Salt  Marsh,  and 
a Mountain  of  Salt 375 

CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

Sierra  Nevada  Mountains,  Lake  Tahoe,  Donner  Lake, 
Suffering  of  Emigrants,  Sacramento,  . . . 382 

CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 

Flowers, 390 

CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

Mammoth  Tree  Grove,.  , 396 

CHAPTER  XL. 

Yosomite  Valley, 407 

CHAPTER  XLI. 

A Visit  to  the  Geysers, 419 

CHAPTER  X L 1 1 . 

The  Quicksilver  Mine,  tiie  Largest  in  the  World,  . 424 
CHAPTER  XLIII 

Biru’s-eye  View  of  California,  . . . 448 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


CHAPTER  I. 

INTRODUCTORY. 

Kind  reader,  we  introduce  you  to  our  new  book, 
hoping  you  will  be  sufficiently  interested  to  read  it 
through  and  not  fall  out  along  the  way,  out  of  sleep 
and  out  of  temper,  before  the  journey  is  accom- 
plished. Although  some  of  its  pages  may  seem  un- 
interesting, yet  the  varied  and  important  subjects 
presented  to  the  traveler  all  over  the  great  plains 
and  mountain  ranges  of  the  western  half  of  our  new 
West  is  such  as  to  command  the  careful  investiga- 
tion of  all  our  people.  Much  of  the  country  is  so 
wonderfully  made  up,  composed  of  such  a variety 
pf  material,  and  the  native  tribes  which  inhabit  it 
are  still  so  mysterious,  that  it  is  impossible  for  the 
traveler’s  pen  to  put  upon  paper  such  descriptions  as 
will  give  the  careful  reader  an  adequate  knowledge  of 
this  half  of  our  continent,  which  is  destined  to  be  a 
peculiar  and  very  important  place  on  the  now  glori- 
ous future  of  this  country.  If  by  writing  this  book 


14  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

the  information  of  the  reader  has  been  enlarged — . 
stimulated  to  more  fully  understand  and  appreciate 
this  goodly  heritage  of  ours,  the  primary  object  c* 
the  writer  will  have  been  accomplished,  and  his  long 
mountain  wanderings,  away  from  civilization,  will 
not  have  been  to  no  purpose,  but  amply  rewarded. 

This  may,  with  some  propriety,  be  called  the 
traveling  era,  and  it  is  interchanges  of  individual 
acquirements  which  make  up  and  characterize,  to 
some  extent,  this  present  age. 

With  the  present  increased  facilities  for  travel, 
everybody,  together  with  his  wife  and  family,  are 
acquiring  traveled  knowledge.  Indeed,  if  all  trav- 
elers do  not  write  a big  book , it  is  not  for  want  of  inter- 
esting material  out  of  which  to  make  it,  or  the  lack 
of  ability,  (at  least  in  their  own  estimation,)  but  on 
account  of  an  over  load  of  more  pressing  business — 
a want  of  time.  Those  who  have  time  and  money 
may  visit  whatever  country  and  places  they  may 
wish  to  see,  but  they  are  very  few  when  compared 
with  the  whole.  Most  people  have  their  traveled 
information  brought  to  them  in  their  own  homes 
while  performing  their  various  vocations,  for  a small 
consideration  they  have  at  command  the  traveler’s 
accumulated  knowledge  which  perhaps  he  has  spenl 
years  of  hardship,  deprivation  and  peril  to  acquire 
While  it  is  desirable  that  all  our  people  should  in 


INTRODUCTORY. 


15 

form  themselves,  make  a familiar  acquaintance  with 
the  Old  World,  yet  how  much  more  important  that 
all  should  become,  somewhat  at  least,  familiar  with 
their  own  native  Republican  laud  first. 

There  are  very  many  who  travel  for  years  in  for- 
eign climes  who  have  never  seen  any  part  of  the 
great  western  half  of  the  American  continent.  All 
6uch  of  our  readers  are  cordially  invited  to  take  our 
humble  conveyance  and  go  with  us  by  rail,  by  wag- 
on occasionally,  by  pack  horse  and  mule,  and  many 
times  by  packing  ourselves  ; as  some  portions  of  tho 
road  is  inaccessible  to  any  four-footed  animal,  it  can 
be  attained  only  by  the  persevering  traveler  on  foot. 
Many  of  the  most  remarkable  places  would  be  missed 
if  not  made  in  this  way,  where  the  natural  elements 
long  centuries  ago  have  done  their  wonderful  work 
— beautiful,  yet  rough  ; magnificent,  yet  ugly  ; and 
as  a writer  said  of  Moscow,  “ Magnificent,  yet  mean  ” 


CHAPTER  II. 


THE  DISCOVERY  OF  THE  AMERICAN  CONTINENT. 

Kind  reader,  as,  our  outfit  (alwa3Ts  familiar  on  the 
borders  of  civilization,  beyond  which  the  traveler 
must  carry  everything  he  needs  on  the  journey)  as 
yet  is  so  incomplete,  and  being  far  away  from  an 
outfitting  centre,  we  are  quite  unprepared  to  start 
on  the  long  travel  before  us,  consequently  you  are 
invited  first  to  go  with  me  through  an  address  on 
the  Discovery  of  the  American  Continent  ; after 
which,  should  we  be  in  good  humor  with  each 
other  and  ourself,  we  will  give  our  friends  and  rela- 
tives a long  farewell  for  the  next  year  and  a half 
and  begin  our  travel  beyond  the  old  West  and  where 
the  new  begins,  and  journey  towards  the  setting 
sun  to  where  that  great  luminary  seems  to  retire 
for  the  night — far  out  in  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Our 
theme  includes  a mcst  prominent  period  in  human 
affairs — is  full  and  rich  with  interesting  useful 
thought.  The  discovery  of  America  and  the  cir- 
cumstances with  which  it  is  surrounded  may  be  con- 
sidered one  of  the  most  extraordinary  events  in  the 
annals  of  the  world. 

As  memory  binds  together  time’s  different  peri- 


DISCOVERY  OF  THE  AMERICAN  CONTINENT.  17 

ods,  we  stop  to  linger  around  this  most  wonderful 
of  histories.  Strange,  indeed,  that  this  great  conti- 
nent should  have  lain  undiscovered  for  so  many  cen- 
turies, but  the  mass  of  mankind  had  made  but  little 
improvement  over  the  darkness  of  the  middle  ages. 
The  navigators  of  those  times  felt  themselves  safe 
only  as  they  crept  along  the  frequented  coast.  But 
to  turn  their  little  insecure  vessels  boldly  to  the 
West — to  embark  upon  an  unknown  ocean,  not  be- 
lieved to  have  an  outer  shore,  to  pass  that  bourne 
from  which  no  traveler  had  ever  returned,  and  from 
which  experience  had  not  taught  that  any  mariner 
could  return — was  beyond  their  feeble  comprehen- 
sions ; but  the  fullness  of  time  had  come.  The  Em- 
pires of  the  first  and  oldest  portions  of  the  human 
family  must  flourish  and  fall  before  the  great  seals 
of  creation  are  broken.  They  must  show  what  they 
could  do  for  the  amelioration  of  the  human  race,  be- 
fore Providence  unlocks  the  great  mystery  of  His 
mysterious  creation. 

A noble  man,  who  can  go  out  boldly  and  with  con 
fidence,  on  untrodden,  unknown  regions,  either  on 
6ea  or  land,  is  like  the  great  luminary  when  com- 
pared to  a small  planet. 

The  magnanimous  Ruler  of  the  Universe  seems 
to  bind  up  great  events  in  the  lives  of  some  men. 
Those  individuals  who  stratify  the  space  of  time 


IS  BEYuNj;  .111!,  WEST. 

between  the  beginning  and  end  of  mortal  life  the 
fullest,  with  the  very  best  material  for  working 
days,  and  furnishes  the  parlors  in  their  bosoms  with 
that  kind  of  furniture  which  has  not  gone  out  of 
fashion  for  the  last  eighteen  hundred  years — not 
like  some  in  these  more  favored  times,  who  send 
their  cards  to  church  whilst  they  remain  at  home — 
are  the  property  of  time,  and  their  names,  of  right, 
ought  to  be  engraven  on  the  record  of  every  age 
and  in  every  clime — living  members  of  the  world's 
best  order  of  nobility. 

tie  is  a strong  man,  with  a vigorous  brain,  that 
can  pull  out  as  a telescope  its  intellectual  powers 
and  lift  the  uncertain  thick,  dark  vail  which  hides 
distance  and  see  the  end.  He  is  truly  a great  man 
who  can  look  through  the  age  in  which  he  lives, 
make  excursions  into  the  unknown  future  and  hunt 
up  the  distant  hiding  places  of  creation. 

Providence  seems  to  have  hold  this  great  heritage 
of  America  for  a new  home,  upon  which  to  establish 
more  securely  than  had  been  done  in  the  Old  World 
the  ennobling  and  underlying  principles  of  a higher 
civilization,  where  the  different  races  of  mankind 
could  have  a home,  and  worship  him  according  to 
the  dictates  of  an  enlightened  judgment,  freed  from 
eastern  human  restraints.  Send  off  the  mind,  that 
great  mystery  of  our  being,  over  the  solid,  much 


DISCOVERY  OF  THE  AMERICAN  CONTINENT  19 

trodden  Appian  way,  into  the  regions  of  the  past 
and  bring  a sympathizing  spirit  back  to  view  to  go 
with  us  to  discover  our  then  unknown  land. 

Discovery  is  the  peculiar  subject  of  our  hero — the 
chosen  theater  of  his  intellectual  dominion.  A 
great  soul  has  arrived  on  earth,  fashioned  after  a 
model  none  but  an  Almighty  hand  could  make, 
whose  life  is  to  change  the  old  channel  of  the  hu- 
man race.  Nature  mysteriously  brings  upon  the 
theater  of  the  world  at  times  mysterious  men  to  ac- 
complish some  of  her  great  purposes.  Sometimes  a 
great  soul  seems  to  come  forth  like  an  exhalation 
from  the  interior  of  the  earth.  Columbus  educated 
himself  for  his  business,  this  made  him  strong  and 
decided  in  his  opinions.  Formidable  difficulties  be- 
set him  from  the  first,  such  as  no  other  man  could 
have  overcome  at  that  time.  His  far-reaching  pur- 
pose looked  through  the  twilight  of  his  day  and  im- 
parted to  his  acts  a perseverance  that  no  obstacles 
could  impede,  a true  man  whom  no  prosperity  could 
intoxicate,  no  disappointment  discourage — having  a 
large  supply  of  the  indispensable  article  called  energy 
di\ine  ; a boldness  of  determination  that  never  hesi- 
tated when  the  judgment  was  decided  ; a deep  love 
for  Christianity ; an  incorruptible  integrity ; a love 
for  faithful  duty  that  never  grew  cold.  Columbus 
had  impressed  on  his  mind  the  real  image  of  a new 


20  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

country  in  the  West.  No  old  nurse  or  son  of  Escu- 
lapius  was  skillful  enough  to  keep  the  image  asleep 
in  such  a lodging  place.  This  gave  purpose  to  life, 
his  mind  had  long  flowed  and  made  a deep  channel 
in  this  direction.  The  marvelous  tenacity  with 
which  he  clung  to  the  object  he  had  set  in  his 
heart  is  without  a parallel,  and  will  go  down  through 
the  long  tracks  of  time.  No  obstacles  can  stop  a 
lofty  purpose,  or  outward  darkness  quench  the  light 
of  a great,  a noble  soul,  undismayed  by  difficulties, 
unchanged  by  change  of  fortune.  Although  every- 
thing grew  dark  and  discouraging  around  him,  he 
showed  the  same  unaltered  purpose.  His  penetra- 
ting vision  ranged  through  the  whole  horizon  of 
possibilities  to  seek  a gleam  of  hope  beyond  the 
dark  clouds  about  him,  to  illumine  his  desires. 
Though  everything  grew  dark  and  darker  around 
him,  he  showed  the  same  unaltered  purpose.  He 
had  established  in  his  own  mind  some  of  the  now 
settled  principles  of  astronomy  that  the  earth  is  a 
globe,  capable  of  being  circumnavigated.  This 
fruitful  truth  revealed  itself  to  the  intelligence  of 
Columbus  as  a practical  fact — an  original  idea  with 
him — for  it  had  not,  at  that  time,  been  incorporated 
into  the  general  intelligence  of  the  age  in  which  he 
lived — an  illustrious  example  of  the  connection  of 
scientific  theory  with  great  practical  results.  He 


DISCOVERY  OF  THE  AMERICAN  CONTINENT.  21 

inferred  the  existence  of  a continent  in  the  Western 
Hemisphere,  by  considering  the  necessity  of  a 
counterbalance  to  the  land  in  the  Eastern. 

His  reflection  and  knowledge  enabled  him  to  dis- 
cover the  constructive  principle,  that  the  A II- Wise 
Maker  of  this,  our  globe,  had  properly  balanced  it. 
You  see  the  necessity — a wise  omnipotent  arrange- 
ment by  the  great  master  mind — that,  there  must  be 
an  equilibrium  for  the  purpose  of  revolving. 

We  have  here  intellect  scientifically  trained  into 
system  ; not  the  dreams  of  a brain  put  into  action 
by  ever-shifting,  half-formed  thought.  The  im- 
pressed image  knocked  constantly  at  the  door  of 
enlightened  reason  to  be  let  loose  and  discover  the 
New  World.  After  the  great  discoverer  matured  his 
plan  he  never  spoke  in  doubt,  but  with  as  much  cer- 
tainty as  if  his  eyes  had  beheld  his  darling  object. 
Like  a firm  rock  that  in  mid-ocean  braves  the  war 
of  whirlwinds  and  the  dash  of  waves,  he  read,  as  he 
supposed,  his  contemplated  discovery,  as  foretold  in 
holy  writ : that  the  ends  of  the  earth  were  to  be 
linked  together,  and  that  the  magnificent  work  of 
Providence,  through  the  mystic  tissue  of  the  uni- 
verse, would  in  time  interweave  all  the  human  famity 
with  the  thread  of  universal  Christianity,  and  wrap 
up  the  nations  in  its  broad  folds.  Consequently  we 
find  him  supplicating,  in  tones  of  humiliation,  the 


22  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

different  thrones  of  Europe  ; traveling  on  foot,  hav- 
ing all  his  worldly  goods  with  him  ; despised  by  the 
pretended  philosophers,  laughed  at  by  the  ignorant, 
and  trifled  with  by  the  arrogance  of  ministers  and 
their  dependents.  But  he  was  independent,  at  the 
same  time  dependent ; never  compromised  himself 
or  his  principles  a right  with  a wrong.  Perhaps  he 
lived  at  that  distant  period  in  sight  of  independence, 
— as  near  the  Fourth  of  July  as  many  in  these  more 
favored  times. 

Ultimately  he  obtained  an  interview  with  the 
Court  of  Spain,  who  favored  his  plans  enough  to  call 
together  the  most  of  the  scientific  professors,  that  he 
might  have  an  opportunity  to  lay  his  plans  before 
them.  At  this  time  Spain  was  at  the  summit  of  her 
greatness,  and  had  her  greatest  men.  When  ex- 
plaining his  plans  of  discovery  to  the  philosophers, 
and  that  the  earth  is  a revolving  globe,  which  might 
be  traveled  round  from  east  to  west,  “ Why  !”  said 
they,  “ what  a mystical  theory,  contradicted  by  every 
step  we  take  upon  the  broad,  flat  earth  which  we 
daily  tread  beneath  our  feet.”  To  them  it  was  vis- 
ionary, a vast  nothingness.  They  came  together 
with  doubt  in  both  hands — could  not  travel  out  of 
their  old  stratified  beliefs. 

To  assert  that  there  were  inhabitable  lands  on  the 
other  side  of  the  globe,  would  be  to  maintain  that 


DISCOVERY  OF  THE  AMERICAN  CONTINENT.  23 

I 

there  were  people  not  descended  from  Adam,  as  it 
was  impossible  for  them  to  have  passed  the  inter- 
vening ocean. 

Some  of  his  learned  hearers  were  convinced  by 
his  powerful  reasoning,  and  all  were  warmed  by  his 
eloquence,  but  opposed  his  plan  and  object,  and  his 
long  cherished  enterprise  swung  far  back  into  the 
old  regions  of  unbelief  and  unpopularity.  The 
great  truth  rejected,  lay  discouraged  at  their  feet, 
believing,  as  they  did,  that  the  old  rusty  lantern  of 
the  past  in  their  hands  threw  light  on  all  the  distant 
corners  of  creation.  Nevertheless,  the  great  fact 
had  a living  home  in  the  capacious  min’d  of  Co- 
lumbus— the  home  growth  of  his  own  intellect — 
clothed  with  warm  and  living  thought.  He  picked 
up  and  put  together  his  oft  broken  hopes,  and  gath- 
ered up  again  his  energies  for  another  effort. 

“Where  ignorance  is  bliss,  ’tis  folly  to  be  wise.” 
Consequently  we  find  him  supplicating  the  different 
thrones  of  Europe,  at  a time  when  kings  consider  ed 
themselves  the  wisest  of  mortals  upon  earth.  Eight 
een  years  of  weary  negotiation  had  failed  to  procure 
for  Columbus  the  sanction  and  aid  of  a government, 
— eighteen  years  of  despairing  solicitations  and 
weary  with  long  journeyings.  Amid  all  his  trying 
circumstances  he  never  consented  to  compromise 
his  superior  manliness,  or  accept  of  any  terms  not 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


24 

strictty  honorable  to  himself,  and  worthy  of  his 
magnanimous  purpose.  His  wonderful  perseverance 
under  such  opposing  circumstances  during  those 
long  and  gloomy  years,  will  descend  in  the  undying 
archives  of  time.  Finally,  the  penetrating  vision 
and  magnanimity  of  Queen  Isabella  resolved  to  favor 
the  undertaking,  and  requested  that  Columbus  might 
be  sent  to  her.  Yet  she  hesitated,  knowing  that  her 
husband,  who  would  be  “ Lord  and  Master,*'  opposed 
the  enterprise,  and  that  the  royal  treasury  was  near- 
ly drained  by  long  and  expensive  war.  But  with 
true  woman’s  earnestness  of  purpose  and  grandeur 
of  soul,  she  said  : “ I undertake  the  enterprise  for  my 
own  crown,  regardless  of  an  opposing  husband  or 
anything  else,  and  will  pledge  my  jewels  to  raise 
the  necessary  funds.” 

He  who  will  oppose  “Woman’s  Rights”  (when 
right)  hath  no  soil  in  his  heart  for  the  growth  of 
just  and  liberal  principles.  Let  us  take  through 
tickets — -not  to  cross  the  Continent — but  the  great 
unknown  ocean  spread  out  by  God  around  the  globe, 
not  to  separate,  but  to  unite  the  Human  Family,  be- 
ing the  only  means  of  intercourse  between  regions 
so  distant.  We  go  beyond  the  then  known  limits  of 
the  world  to  discover  and  make  known  to  the  Old 
World  the  New.  Leaving  behind  our  agreeable 
homes,  with  all  their  happy  surroundings,  our  ex- 


DISCOVERY  OF  THE  AMERICAN  CONTINENT.  25 

panded  ard  expansive  country,  homes  of  healthful 
millions — the  growth  of  Columbus’  genius — we  see 
tbe  master  spirit  foreshadowing  the  might}'  enter- 
prise, carefully  and  systematically  arranging  his 
business,  preparing  his  little  fleet  to  “quit  the  still 
shore  for  the  troubled  wave,”  and  brave  the  perils 
of  unknown  seas.  All  arrangements  completed, 
three  small  caravels,  or  fishing  boats,  a hundred  and 
twenty  men,  we  behold  the  great  leader,  the  gray- 
haired sire,  with  eye  intent,  and  on  the  visioned 
future  bent,  go  forth  on  his  towering  ambition,  the 
compass  his  only  pilot,  the  constellated  heavens  his 
only  chart,  to  realize  that  magnificent  conception 
in  which  his  creative  mind  had  planted  the  germs 
of  a New  World  ; passing  rapidly  from  the  then 
crowded  hive  of  the  Old  World,  like  a meteor,  to 
the  wonder-stricken  gaze  of  man,  now  broken  away 
from  the  limits  of  the  Old  World  and  launched  into 
the  untrodden  regions  of  the  mysterious  ocean  and 
the  unknown  future — the  polarstar  his  watch  tower, 
and  the  crystal  eyes  of  heaven  to  guide  him.  He 
traveled  away  from  the  then  dull  mass  of  mankind 
on  the  strong  vehicle  of  a well  balanced,  penetrating 
intellect  towards  that  undiscovered  country  (as  all 
supposed)  from  which  no  traveler  returns.  Leaving 
family,  friends,  country,  all  the  home-rooted  ties  that 
hover  in  the  human  heart,  behind— every  thing  be- 


-r 


DISCOVERY  OF  THE  AMERICAN  CONTINENT.  27 

gathered  at  his  heart.  The  streams  of  life  within 
him  gave  signs  of  woe — that  all  was  lost.  Loudly 
blew  contending  tempests  on  his  devoted  head  ; 
great  troubles  at  hand  and  none  to  help.  All  seemed 
lost  and  far  away  from  their  native  land.  “ Return/7 
return/7  went  over  the  then  wilderness  of  waters. 
Columbus7  lengthened  shadow  over  the  boundless 
waters  moved  beneath  the  si  1 very-curtained  clouds, 
lost  and  left  in  loneliness,  deep  waters  and  difficulties 
thick  all  around,  each  moment  big  with  trouble.  He 
rode  on  contention  and  directed  the  storm  when  hope 
had  turned  to  despair  in  every  heart  but  his. 

But  his  great  undertaking  shall  be  finally  accom- 
plished because  written  on  mid-face  of  heaven, 
where  all  the  world  might  see  it.  There  are  occa- 
sions in  which  a great  soul  lives  years  of  wrapt 
enjoyment  in  a moment.  His  great  soul  then  caught 
the  treasure  it  through  life  had  sought.  His  darling 
object  was  fixed  in  the  capacious  recesses  of  his 
mind.  That  eye,  that  life  which  had  long  lived  in 
the  unknown  West  to  the  Old  World,  saw  a far  off 
moving  light.  As  the  hands  on  the  immutable  clock 
in  the  ethereal  dome  marked  the  long  hours  of  that 
never-to-be-forgotten  night,  when  the  Old  World 
first  saw  the  New,  moved  slowly  on  time7s  face  to 
him. 

First  of  all  we  behold  the  great  discoverer  of  Amer- 


28  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

ica  standing  on  his  storm-shattered  bark,  the  shades 
of  night  having  fallen  on  the  sea — yet  no  man 
sleeping.  The  dashing  billows  of  alternate  hope  and 
despair  rolled  through  and  convulsed  his  own 
troubled  bosom.  Extending  forward  his  weather- 
beaten form,  straining  westward  his  anxious  eyes 
until  Heaven  at  last  granted  him  a moment  of  rap- 
turous delight,  and  seemed  again  to  fill  the  world 
with  new  delight — with  joy  and  gladness  in  blessing 
his  vision  with  the  sight  of  the  before  unknown 
world.  The  great  elemental  mystery  of  a New  World 
was  settled.  Land  swelling  up  from  the  great  ocean, 
clothed  in  the  habiliments  of  nature’s  richest 
beauty  ; glorious  morning  sunshine  playing  in  the 
green  tops  of  trees  ; spring  abroad  among  the 
branches  ; homes  for  happy  life  sitting  in  the  distant 
valleys  of  perpetual  green  ; a beautiful  island,  as  if 
direct  from  nature’s  great  mirror  and  dressing  room, 
magnificent  and  beautiful,  full  of  tropical  fruit,  like 
a continental  orchard. 

Upon  landing  Columbus  threw  himself  upon  his 
knees,  kissed  our  common  mother  earth,  returned 
thanks  to  God,  followed  by  all  his  companions, 
ardent  in  their  expressions  of  repentance  and  admi 
ration.  Then  and  there  the  first  Christian  bent  the 
knee  to  thank  the  Sovereign  Ruler  and  Maker  of  the 
universe  for  the  extension  of  the  earth.  He  then 


DISCOVERY  OF  THE  AMERICAN  CONTINENT.  29 

struck  a chord  that  vibrated  anew  around  the  inner- 
most heart  of  the  Old  World,  and  pulsated  for  the 
first  time  around  the  earth — held  up  the  mirror 
which  shows  every  soul  its  own  face. 

That  morning,  like  the  morning  of  creation,  stood 
forth  an  additional  world  as  to  mankind,  in  the  pres- 
ence of  her  family,  the  twin  sister  of  the  Eastern 
Continent,  as  sisters  of  one  house  are  alike,  looking 
up  through  her  tears,  raising  her  head  high  above  the 
surrounding  mighty  waters.  Thus  addressed  Colum- 
bus : “ I have  sought  you — have  been  looking  far 
away  over  the  broad  ocean  since  the  great  I Am 
said, 4 Let  the  waters  be  gathered  together  into  one 
place,  and  let  dry  land  appear.*  ” Then  I came  up 
from  the  innermost  caverns  of  the  deep  waters,  and 
in  my  unimproved  home  I welcome  you,  notwith- 
standing the  deep  breathing  of  subterranean  life 
and  the  natural  elements  have  changed  my  once 
smooth,  unwrinkled  cheek  of  girlhood,  and  left  deep 
and  wide  century  furrows  on  my  face.  Yet  I wel- 
come you,  for  by  your  instrumentality  my  old  con- 
stitution will  be  made  to  smile  with  youth  and 
beauty.  I will  watch  over  and  be  kind  to  you  and 
yours,  will  exercise  parental  care,  and  we  part  not. 
“ Whom  God  joins  together  shall  never  be  severed/’ 
through  all  the  crooked  ways  and  dark  paths  the 
human  family  have  to  tread.  With  a warm,  pub 


30  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

sating  heart  I will  give  the  exuberant  bosom  of  a 
common  mother  to  all  the  families  of  men  who  will 
come  unto  me.  With  arms  extended,  and  with  wel- 
come hands,  I will  take  my  legitimate  children  and 
nourish  them  upon  my  capacious  bosom,  for  they 
will  appreciate  my  blessings,  and  draw  from  me  that 
best  of  life  that  maketh  children  men,  intelligent 
and  free,  grow  great,  prosperous  and  happy  in  my 
approving  smiles.  I will  add  to  the  jeweled  diadem 
of  the  Old  World  a central  star,  arouud  which  in 
time  all  the  old  crowned  continents  will  revolve  and 
bathe  in  my  radiating  light,  and  happy  life  will  look 
where  I live  for  higher  types  of  life,  from  the  Arctic 
circle  to  the  tropics,  from  the  rising  of  the  sun  to 
the  going  down  of  the  same.  The  old  rheumatic, 
life-destroying  systems  of  extending  empire  and 
propagating  religion  by  fire  and  sword  through 
rivers  of  human  blood,  trampling  the  fairest  field  in 
every  century  into  bloody  mire  by  mighty  armies, 
here  found  an  antidote,  a heart  felt  counteracting 
influence,  in  our  more  congenial  soil  for  working 
life. 

The  gray-haired  customs  of  the  people  in  the  old 
countries,  shut  up  like  oysters  in  themselves,  crawled 
out  of  their  century-worn  shell  into  a better  life.  This 
the  strongest  wedge  that  ever  split  the  knotty  block 
of  blind  intolerance.  This  the  heavy  weight  which 


DISCOVERY  uF  THE  AMERICAN  CONTINENT.  31 

pulled  old  empires  dovvo.  Inquisition  can  never 
more  seal  thy  lips,  thou  new  civilization;  more  en- 
lightenment; upward  and  onward  around  the  uni- 
verse. The  art  of  printing  being  discovered  about 
this  time,  the  storehouses  of  antiquity  were  opened 
to  the  world — the  accumulated  minds  of  the  past 
had  a “Rip  Van  Winckle”  resurrection  and  came 
forth  from  dusty  alcoves,  and  again  spoke  to  living, 
acting  men. 

The  old,  grown  together,  matted  web  of  ages,  wo- 
ven far  back  in  the  dark  chambers  of  the  past,  began 
to  untwist — and  the  great  Reformation  about  that 
time  aroused  a new,  upward  and  onward  movement 
in  all  human  affairs.  From  that  time  there  arose  a 
more  liberal  knowledge — a before  unknown  light 
penetrated  the  twisted  meshes  of  human  imperfec- 
tions, and  began  to  cast  off  the  scale  of  crushed  habit 
and  to  develop  a better  growth  of  the  nobler,  the 
higher  part  of  intelligent  existence.  The  old  em- 
pires of  men  were  soon  to  plant  in  this  new  land  the 
elements  of  the  highest  civilization  the  world  had 
yet  known.  The  human  heart  began  to  vibrate 
anew ; the  sharp  edge  of  independent  thought  and 
action  struck  quick  and  deep,  to  plant  the  germs  for 
a more  enlightened  empire  in  our  rich  and  beautiful 
but  unsubdued  land.  You  have,  no  doubt,  heard  of 
Young  America.  He  is  fashionably  built,  high-fed, 


32  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

high  hearted,  but  gets  the  dyspepsia  iu  his  neck-tie 
and  the  reputation  of  being  headstrong,  because  he 
carries  his  head  on  his  shoulders  instead  of  under 
his  arm,  and  feels  the  pulse-beatings  of  the  world’s 
mighty  heart. 

The  dictates  of  silent  nature  would  rebuke  us 
were  I to  leave  the  great  discoverer  here — would 
call  us  ungrateful.  We  pass  that  period  of  his  life 
which  shows  how  soon  a change  may  come  over 
life’s  resplendent  day,  caused  by  the  inhumanity  of 
a usurping  commissioner.  When  the  noble-minded 
Isabella  heard  how  he  had  been  inhumanly  treated 
and  the  royal  authority  abused,  her  large  heart  filled 
with  mingled  sympathy  and  indignation,  for  he  had 
been  sent  from  the  land  he  discovered  to  the  Court 
of  Spain  in  irons.  When  he  saw  sympathizing  tears 
in  the  eyes  of  his  open-handed,  warm-hearted  Queen, 
he  fell  at  her  feet'.  There  is  a gilded  cord  of  sym- 
pathy running  through,  and  throwing  its  folds  about 
the  citadel  of  life  in  every  bosom  that  vibrates  with 
music  to  faithful  duty  and  repeated  kindness — knit- 
ing,  as  with  golden  fingers,  a silken  web  around 
troubles. 

Columbus  made  other  discoveries  and  explora- 
tions which  were  perilous  and  lengthy ; so  that 
when  he  ultimately  arrived  in  Spain,  his  patroness 
having  finished  her  earthly  work,  his  income  not 


DISCOVERY  OP  THE  AMERICAN  CONTINENT.  33 

having  been  paid,  he  had  no  home  but  an  inn  ; and 
poor,  with  health  impaired  by  his  long  and  weary 
care,  he  soon  foun  1 his  earthly  end  approachin  j.  He 
put  in  order  all  his  worldly  affairs,  and  made  arrange- 
ments to  have  the  Holy  Sepulchre  rescued'from  the 
infidels.  He  left  none  of  life’s  duty  unperformed. 
He  made  Christianity  a centre  around  which  all 
things  took  their  place.  With  a few  devoted  friends 

about  him,  his  great  soul  traveled  to  another  clime 
\ 

— went  to  the  Eternal  Father’s  home  to  fest,  full  of 
honors  and  full  of  years,  leaving  this  our  country  as 
his  enduring  monument.  He  had  done  enough  of 
this  world’s  hard  work,  contended  manfully  with  the 
vicissitudes  of  human  life.  He  acquired  his  honors 
contending,  not  on  battle’s  crimsoned  field,  but 
against  poverty,  hardship  and  remarkable  circum- 
stances amid  the  opposition  of  his  fellow  men.  Ilis 
life  furnishes  an  illustrious  example  for  men  who 
will  come  out  from  the  self-same  bog-trot  all  the  year 
round,  and  assume  the  execution  of  high  undertak- 
ings and  the  fulfillment  of  a noble  purpose.  He 
never  stood  on  the  narrow  ridge  of  self,  but  graded 
it  down  to  a proper  level.  He  never  sought  wealth, 
but  developed  himself  to  the  service  of  mankind. 

“Then  I pray  thee  write  him  as  one  who  loved 
his  fellow  men.”  A wrong  trembled  like  a guilty 
thing,  surprised  in  his  presence,  for  he  stood  on  the 


34  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

# 

heights  of  honor,  and  virtuous  acts  always  felt  his 
fostering  hand.  He  seemed  to  have  been  designed 
to  fill  up  a great  vacancy  in  the  round  of  usefulness 
high  Heaven  bestows.  A great  man,  indeed,  who 
has  the  eternal  principles  of  true  manliness  in  his 
very  being,  who  can  say  I am  a man  in  all  the  noble 
thoughts  which  that  word  conveys — nothing  that  is 
human  is  foreign  to  me.  .1  represent  philanthrophy 
and  morality  not  in  a stolen  coat. 

Genius  and  unflinching  resolves,  when  concen- 
trated upon  one  object,  seldom  fail  to  accomplish 
magnificent  results.  You  see  the  grateful  nation  for 
whom  he  had  labored  bearing  his  remains  to  the 
land  he  first  discovered,  and  on  the  transfer  of  that 
island  to  the  French  in  1795  we  again  see  them 
bearing  his  remains  to  Cuba  and  depositing  them  in 
the  great  Cathedral  at  Havana,  in  the  wall  on  the 
right  side  of  the  grand  altar,  with  all  the  national 
display  due  to  departed  greatness,  amid  the  city’s 
roaring  cannon  and  surge  of  men.  You  will  remem- 
ber that  he  was  sent  home  degraded,  in  ignomin- 
ious chains,  from  this  very  port  from  which  his  re- 
mains were  taken.  But  posterity,  ever  just  to  true 
greatness,  thus  verifies  the  great  principle  that  a 
life  filled  with  commendable  merit  never  fails  to  be 
rewarded  by  the  commendation  and  applause  of  pos- 
terity; or  as  the  acorn  drops  to  earth  unseen, let 


DISCOVERT  OF  THE  AMERICAN  CONTINENT.  35 

Time’s  unearthing  hand  cast  off  i ts  shell,  when  the  real 
life  within  comes  forth  and  we  behold  the  trunk,  the 
branches,  the  foliage,  the  solid  oak.  True  merit — 

9 

real  greatness — outlives  calumny  and  receives  its 
glorious  rewards  in  the  admiration  of  after  ages. 
Considering  the  time  in  which  he  lived,  he  was  like 
our  own  greatest  of  men — who  was  “ first  in  war,  first 
in  peace,  and  first  in  the  hearts  of  his  countrymen/’ — 
the  embodiment  of  honor,  the  repository  of  justice. 
They  drank  largely  of  the  stream  of  life  that  ever 
flows  through  the  Eternal  City,  bearing  in  their 
bosoms  the  crown  jewels  of  immortality.  But  few 
lives  are  bound  closer  together  with  sealed  gold. 
The  one  gave  to  the  world  the  American  Continent, 
a new  home  for  the  nations  ; the  other  planted  deep 
in  our  land  Republican  Government,  the  germs  of 
true  happiness,  and  unfurled  truly  “ Freedom’s  ban- 
ner,’ wrapped  us  up  in  its  silken  folds,  and  left  the 
trophies  of  enduring  fame  down  in  the  deep  recesses 
of  our  national  heart.  Their  deeds  of  lofty  purpose 
will  hang  on  the  ends  of  time,  covered  with  wreaths 
of  immortal  honor.  As  certain  products  of  the  earth 
are  the  natural  growth  of  peculiar  soils  at  particular 
times,  so  some  men  emanate  almost  necessarily  out  of 
certain  conditions  of  civilization,  from  the  culmina- 
ting point  of  producing  causes,  and  stand  forth  as  the 
representatives  of  the  times  in  which  they  live. 


36  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

We  admire  and  praiae  that  individual  who  answers 
best  the  great  end  for  which  he  was  created.  We 
admire  that  tree,  that  vine  which  bears  fruit  the 
most  rich  and  abundant.  That  star  which  is  most 
useful  in  the  heavens  is  the  one  we  admire  the  most. 
We  have  in  the  character  of  our  subject  a represent- 
ative man — fully  developed  and  meritorious,  but  long 
since  enrolled  among  the  noble&t  of  the  dead.  Rest 
in  peace,  great  Columbus,  thy  fame  circles  the  tem- 
ple of  memory  high  up.  Thy  name  will  ever  be 
mentioned  with  honor  ; it  is  like  that  of  a household 
idol  in  the  nation’s  citadel  of  life,  and  will  be  handed 
down  with  reverence,  will  live  as  long  as  there  is  an 
American  race  living  in  waving  fields,  with  groves 
of  happiness  between.  Far  be  it  from  my  purpose 
to  adorn  our  subject  with  a chaplet  plucked  from 
the  domain  of  others,  when  we  say  his  far-reaching 
intelligence,  his  noble  character,  is  a full  pattern  for 
an^  age  and  country.  He  wears  not  borrowed  hon- 
ors ; he  will  ever  receive  the  grateful  respect  of  a 
grateful  people. 

Go  back  to  the  old  empires,  examine  the  honored 
names,  the  benefactors  of  earlier  days ; turn  ovei 
the  records  of  Ancient  Greece  ; review  the  books  of 
mighty  Rome  ; summon  back  the  honored  dead  of 
every  age  ; and  where,  among  the  race  of  mortal 
men,  shall  one  be  found  who  has  been  a greater  ben- 


— — - • - ■ — 

® ’ V 

DISCO V Eli Y OF  THE  AMERICAN  CONTINENT.  37 

efactor  to  mankind  than  C ilumbus.  LI  is  tomb,  of 
right,  belongs  to  this  country,  and  we  believe  the 
time  will  come  when  his  remains  will  be  a sacred 
deposit  in  our  land  without  their  being  removed. 
That  the  American  Eagle  will  spread  her  life-giving 
wings  of  better  life  over  that  queen  gem  of  all  the 
islands,  her  feet  resting  upon  a noble  monument,  a 
tribute  houorable  to  parent  and  child,  designed  by 
the  grateful  hearts,  upraised  by  the  willing  hands 
of  American  citizens  a monument  to  a world’s  bene- 
factor— the  great,  the  immortal  Columbus. 

“ Abou  Ben  Adhem  (may  his  tribe  increase) 

Awoke  one  night  from  a deep  dream  of  peace 
And  saw  within  the  moonlight  in  his  room, 

Making  it  rich  and  like  a lily  in  bloom, 

An  angel  writing  in  a book  of  gold. 

Exceeding  peace  had  made  Ben  Adhem  bold, 

And  to  the  presence  in  the  room  he  said, 

* What  writest  thou  P The  vision  raised  its  head 
And  with  a look  made  of  all  sweet  accord, 

Answer’d  4 The  names  of  those  who  love  the  Lord. 

And  is  mine  there?’  said  Abou.  ‘ Nay,  not  so,’ 

Replied  the  angel.  Abou  spoke  more  low 
But  cheerily  still,  and  said, 4 1 pray  thee,  then 
Write  me  as  one  who  loves  his  fellow-men.’ 

The  a-ngel  wrote  and  vanished.  The  next  night 
It  came  again  w;th  a great  wakening  light, 

And  show’d  the  names  whom  love  of  God  had  bless’d 
And  lo  ! Ben  Ad  hem’s  name  led  all  the  rest.” 


CHAPTER  III. 

ITS  FIRST  SETTLEMENT. 

The  discovery  itself  of  the  American  Continent 
may  properly  be  regarded  as  the  most  extraordinary 
event  in  history.  In  this,  however,  as  in  other 
events,  familiarity  blunts  our  conceptions  and  time 
dulls  the  sharp  edge  of  our  perceptions.  Yet  the 
more  I have  meditated,  the  more  I have  investiga- 
ted, and  become  familiar  with  the  wonderful  circum- 
stances with  which  it  is  clothed  ; its  magnitude  in- 
creases with  every  successive  contemplation.  That 
a continent  as  large  as  Europe  and  Africa  united, 
extending  on  both  sides  of  the  equator,  lying  be- 
tween the  Western  shores  of  Europe  and  Africa 
and  the  Eastern  shore  of  Asia,  with  numerous  in- 
tervening islands,  stopping  places  on  the  road  of 
discovery,  should  have  been  undiscovered  for  five 
thousand  years  is  a mystery  beyond  human  compre- 
hension. It  would  seem  that  the  All-Wise  Ruler  of 
the  human  family  must  first  see  what  the  nations  ol 
the  Old  World  could  do,  towards  establishing  His 
great  humanity  upon  earth,  before  the  dark  curtain 
which  hid  its  last  hope  is  lifted  up.  The  old  intol- 
erant civilization,  when  weighed  in  the  eternal  bal- 
ances of  high  Heaven,  was  found  wanting.  On  the 


ITS  FIRST  SETTLEMENT.  39 

first  day  of  August  1620,  a few  care-worn  English 
subjects  exiled  themselves  from  Delf  Haven,  in 
Holland,  to  encounter  the  then  dreaded  perils  of  the 
Atlantic  and  the  still  greater  uncertainties  of  their 
proposed  settlement  on  the  edge  of  the  New  World. 

In  coming  to  this  country,  our  fathers  contempla 
ted  a safe  retreat  across  the  sea  where  they  could 
worship  God  according  to  the  dictates  of  their  own 
conscience.  Judging  from  the  primitive  compact 
signed  on  the  11th  of  November,  1620,  on  board  the 
Mayflower,  before  they  landed  in  Provincetown  har- 
bor, after  their  very  precarious  voyage,  evidently 
shows  a decided  intention  to  establish  a government 
on  the  basis  of  equality — to  unite  in  their  code  re- 
ligion and  liberty,  morals  and  law.  The  Pilgrims 
were  actuated  by  that  principle  which  has  given 
the  first  impulse  to  the  great  movements  of  the  mod- 
ern world,  “ God  and  Liberty .”  They  had  the  im- 
perfections of  humanity.  Those  exalted  principles 
were  combined  with  human  weakness.  They  were 
mingled  with  the  prejudices  and  errors  of  age,  coun- 
try and  sect;  sometimes  intolerent,  yet  always  rev- 
erent and  sincere.  When  pressing  their  wishes  to 
the  government  and  enlisting  the  favor  of  some 
good  men  to  assist  them  in  their  new  undertaking, 
they  put  forth  the  following  as  their  principle 
reason  : 


40  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

“We  do  verily  believe  and  trust  that  the  Lord  is 
with  us,  unto  whom  and  whose  service  we  have 
given  ourselves  in  many  trials,  and  that  He  will 
graciously  prosper  our  endeavors,  according  to  the 
simplicity  of  our  hearts.” 

Men  who  can  put  forth  such  words  with  sincerity, 
and  who  have  embarked  in  a just  cause,  are  almost 
sure  to  succeed.  They  may  not  live  to  gather  the 
fruits  of  their  own  planting  ; others  may  build,  but 
they  have  laid  the  foundation.  Entertaining  such 
views,  the  body  was  raised  above  weakness ; it 
nerved  the  humble  to  withstand  the  frowns  of  pow- 
er ; it  triumphed  over  the  prison  and  the  scaffold,  over 
all  kinds  of  suffering  and  deprivation  ; it  gave  also 
manly  courage  to  tender  and  delicate  women. 

Whatever  may  be  said  for  or  against  the  motives 
our  Pilgrim  fathers  had  in  coming  to  the  New 
World  to  found  a colony,  they  did  plant  deep  in  the 
fruitful  soil  the  living  principles  of  republican  gov 
eminent  for  the  admiration  of  mankind.  Two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  years  has  now  passed  away  since  this 
faithful  colony  landed  upon  our  shore.  We  love  to 
go  back  to  our  infancy  and  follow  up  the  settlement 
of  the  country  ; to  see  the  wilderness  and  the  frowns 
of  savage  nature  give  way  to  homes  of  civilized  life. 
The  log  house  of  the  frontier  settler  first  built  on  the 
shore  of  the  Atlantic  moved  slowly  but  steadily,  con- 


ITS  FIRST  SETTLEMENT.  41 

quering  hostile  nature  towards  the  setting  sun, 
compelling  the  cabin  of  the  trapper  and  the  wig- 
wam of  the  savage  to  change  their  homes  farther 
and  still  farther  to  the  West,  and  then  beyond  the 
Great  West,  where  we  now  find  men  planting  towns 
and  cities,  making  governments  and  doing  all  other 
acts  and  things  requisite  to  the  establishment  of 
healthy  and  prosperous  homes. 

The  natives  are  not  wholly  alone  in  their  would- 
be  savage  glory,  for  civilization  has  established  it- 
self across  and  over  the  continent,  and  they  must 
conform  or  be  ultimately  annihilated.  Every  obstacle 
must  be  removed  that  is  in  the  way  of  the  extension 
of  this  growing  family  of  great  and  prosperous  States 
in  the  West. 

“ Behind  the  squaw’s  light  bark  canoe 
The  Steamer  and  Railroad  rocks  and  raves, 

And  city  lots  are  staked  for  sale 
Above  old  Indian  graves. 

I hear  the  tread  of  pioneers, 

Of  nations  yet  to  be ; 

The  first  low  wash  of  waves  where  soon 
Shall  roll  a human  sea. 

The  rudiments  of  Empire  here 
Are  plastic  yet  and  warm, 

The  chaos  of  a mighty  world 
Is  rounding  into  form. 

Who  can  or  will  presume  to  assign  limits  to  our 
growth  or  dare  to  compute  the  time  table  of  our 
railway  progress,  or  lift  the  curtain  that  hides  the 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


42 

crowded  great  events  of  the  coming  century.  The 
noble  work  now  established  across  the  continent 
will  go  on.  We  indulge  in  the  bright  \ision  of 
healthful  progress  all  over  our  land,  from  the  first 
headland  our  progenitors  saw  on  the  Atlantic  coast 
to  the  last  promontory  on  the  Pacific,  which  receives 
the  parting  kiss  of  the  setting  sun. 

Kind  reader,  the  only  apology  I have  to  give  you 
for  the  unusual  length  of  these  articles,  is  their  im- 
portance to  us,  also  to  the  whole  family  of  man.  We 
too  often  forget  (not  that  we  are  ungrateful)  the  be- 
ginnings of  what  we  now  are.  It  becomes  the  child- 
ren of  noble  progenitors  to  turn  back  occasionally 
the  well-filled  pages  of  time,  pass  to  where  they  had 
a parentage,  where  the  underlying  principles  were 
established  from  which  a nation  has  grown  by  steady 
steps,  great  -and  prosperous  at  home,  and  sent  back 
to  the  old  world  the  healthful  influence  of  a better 
civilization,  in  which  every  soul  has  an  interest,  and 
can  breathe  freer  wherever  the  atmosphere  of  heav- 
en has  worked  a pair  of  human  lungs. 

“’Tis  yours  to  judge  how  wide  tte  limits  stand 
between  a great  and  happy  land,  from  ocean  to 
ocean.” 

Now  that  freedom  is  established  all  over  the  land, 
we  have  no  more  cause  of  war,  and  peace  has  come 
to  stay.  We  shall  have  prosperous  continental  en- 


ITS  FIRST  SETTLEMENT.  43 

terprise  from  the  cold  North  (as  we  now  go  there) 
to  the  sunny  South — one  government,  one  noble 
destiny. 

“ The  Pilgrim  spirit  has  not  fled ; 

It  walks  in  noon's  bright  light, 

And  it  watches  the  bed 
Of  our  glorious  dead 

With  the  holy  stars  by  night ! 

And  it  watches  the  bed 
Of  the  brave  who  have  bled, 

And  shall  guard  this  widespread  shore 
Till  the  waves  of  the  bay 
Where  the  Mayflower  lay 
Shall  form  and  rise  no  more.” 


CHAPTER  IV. 

WHERE  IS  THE  WEST? 

The  first  settlers  upon  Massachusetts  Bay,  after 
exploring  the  country  for  twenty  miles  “out  West,” 
reported  the  fact  with  great  surprise,  and  boasted 
that  the  soil  was  tillable  for  that  entire  distance. 

This  book  is  styled  Beyond  the  West,  for  the  rea- 
son that  what  is  generally  understood  by  the  great 
productive  West,  seems  to  stop  this  side  of  the  geo- 
graphical centre  of  the  continent  North  and  South. 
Nature  has  drawn  the  line  of  demarkation  between 
them.  The  central  rivers  of  the  continent — the  Mis- 
sissippi aid  Missouri — form,  to  some  extent,  the 
boundary.  The  continental  centre  is  about  half  way 
between  the  Missouri  river  and  the  base  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  West  of  this  the  whole  country 
to  the  Pacific  is  so  differently  made  up  as  to  be 
quite  another  country,  as  to  the  natural  productions 
and  climate.  Consequently,  what  we  mean  when 
we  speak  of  the  Old  West  does  not  belong  to  this 
other  New  West.  This  has  distinctive  characteris 
tic  features  peculiar  to  the  country,  quite  different 
from  the  Atlantic  side. 

“Where  the  West  Is. — Chicago  is  no  longer  a 


WllEttE  IS  THE  WEST  ? ^ 45 

western,  but  is  an  eastern  city.  It  is  only  900  miles 
to  the  Atlantic  coast,  while  it  i3  2r350  miles  to  the 
Pacific  coast.  Dividing  the  Union  into  east,  centre 
and  west,  the  eastern  division  will  embrace  all  the 
States  lying  east  of  the  Mississippi  river;  the  central, 
all  the  States  and  Territories  between  the  Mississippi 
and  the  Rocky  Mountains ; and  the  western,  all  the 
States  and  Territories  between  the  Rocky  Moun 
tains  and  the  Pacific  coast.  Somewhat  the  largest 
of  these  three  great  divisions  is  the  central.  And, 
astonishing  as  it  may  appear  to  those  who  have  not 
examined  the  map  carefully,  the  territory  lying  west 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains  contains  as  many  square 
miles  as  the  territory  east  of  the  Mississippi  river, 
notwithstanding  this  comprises  eleven  bouthern, 
all  of  the  so-called  ‘ Eastern  ; and  ‘ Central 1 States, 
and  all  of  the  old  ‘Northwest/  The  completion  of 
the  Pacific  Railway  has  changed  the  central,  and 
moved  the  west  1 200  miles  toward  the  setting  sun. 
The  actual  west  consists  of  California,  Oregon,  Wash- 
ing on,  Nevada,  Arizona,  Utah,  Montana,  Wyoming, 
and  the  major  portion  of  Colorado  and  New  Mexico 
It  is  hard  to  realize  the  truth  that  Chicago  is  an 
eastern  city,  and  that  Illinois  is  not  even  a central, 
but  is  an  eastern  State.  Omaha,  which  has  always 
been  regarded  as  on  the  western  verge  of  the  ‘ Fai 
West/  is  in  fact  150  miles  east  of  the  center  of  the 


16  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

• 

Union  !”  Consequently  we  can  with  propriety  style 
this  book  Beyond  the  Old  West. 

I hope  that  no  American  citizen  will  let  an  opportu- 
nity pass  to  make  the  trans-continental  journey;  with- 
out it,  no  one  can  hare  an  extended  knowledge  of 
his  own  country,  of  the  great  extent  of  our  domain, 
our  wonderful  resources  and  our  future  destiny. 

Chicago  is  the  gathering-in  point  of  Railroads. 
She  is  the  center  of  railway  commerce,  East  and 
West,  and  may  now  be  called  an  Eastern  city,  which 
a few  years  ago  was  very  far  to  the  West ; for  the 
star  of  empire  has  left  her  far  behind  to  the  full  en- 
joyment of  home  enterprise  and  home  comforts. 
Whether  the  traveler  to  the  West  from  New  York 
goes  by  New  York  Central,  Erie,  or  by  Michigan 
Southern  or  Michigan  Central,  leaving  at  the  same 
time,  he  is  carried  into  Chicago  almost  at  the  same 
moment,  a thousand  miles  journey.  From  Chicago  to 
Omaha,  where  begins  the  Pacific  Railroad,  is  five  hun- 
dred miles,  through  Northern  Illinois  and  Central 
Iowa  by  the  Chicago  and  Northwestern  Railway, 
crossing  the  Mississippi  River  about  half  way.  Two 
more  roads  further  South  will  soon  be  finished — 
Rock  Island  and  Burlington— which  will  give  Chicago 
and  Omaha  three  separate  lines  nearly  direct.  Oma- 
ha has  also  communication  with  the  great -comraer 
cial  city  of  St.  Louis  by  the  road  down  the  Missouri 
River  to  St.  Joseph  and  Kansas  City. 


VV H EKE  IS  THE  WESTS  47 

It  seems,  however,  strange  that  Railroads  should 
go  before  civilization.  Yet  it  is  so  with  the  Pacific, 
giving  more  ease  and  luxury  to  travelers  than  any 
other  road  in  Europe  or  America,  more  comfortable 
and  luxurious  accommodations  for  railway  travel 
than  anywhere  else  in  the  world.  This  results  from 
the  country  through  which  it  runs.  We  find  on  no 
other  railways  as  yet  so  elegant  and  ease-giving  car- 
riages as  the  refreshment  and  sleeping  cars  offered 
travelers  on  this  new  highway  of  nations ; all  the 
accommodations  of  a first  class  hotel  upon  wheels. 
They  are  the  invention  of  Mr.  Pullman,  who  will 
ever  receive  the  grateful  thanks  of  a grateful  travel- 
ing public.  He  has  associated  his  name  with  one  of 
the  greatest  improvements  in  railroad  travel.  These 
cars  are  owned  by  companies  and  added  to  the 
trains  of  railroad  companies  by  special  agreement. 
Additional  charges  are  required  of  passengers  who 
occupy  them,  in  proportion  to  the  amount  of  room 
taken,  but  about  on  a par  with  the  charges  of  a good 
hotel  for  meals  and  lodgings.  To  enjoy  and  appre- 
ciate these  cars,  a party  of  about  twenty  should 
charter  the  exclusive  use  of  one,  with  which  to  make 
the  continental  pleasure  trip  to  the  Pacific.  Start 
ing  from  the  Atlantic  cities  in  a Pullman  home,  the 
journey  across  the  continent  to  San  Francisco  may 
be  made  with  a pleasure  and  comfort  unequaled 
heretofore  in  all  the  traveler’s  dreams. 


CHAPTER  V. 

THE  NORTHWEST  PASSAGE  DISCOVERED. 

Many  have  been  the  expeditions  fitted  out  by  the 
old  countries  and  this,  to  explore  the  ice-bound  re- 
gions of  the  Arctic  Seas.  Many  noble  men  went 
out  with  an  old  Roman  hardihood  into  these  unknown 
Northern  Seas  of  ice  and  darkness,  to  meet  the  only 
enemy  with  which  they  felt  themselves  mated. 
Their  long  years  of  perilous  and  difficult  adventure 
in  these  inhospitable  regions  stand  foremost  among 
the  heroic  achievements  of  mankind.  The  most  no- 
ted expedition  was  that  of  Sir  John  Franklin  in  1845 
with  135  selected  men,  not  one  of  whom  ever  return- 
ed ; but  all  went  to  explore  the  vast  ocean  from 
whose  bourne  no  traveler  returns. 

These  explorations  prove,  beyond  all  doubt,  that 
if  there  is  a northwest  passage  to  India,  or  any  other 
place,  it  is  very  much  iced  up,  and  is  a much  more 
uncertain  road  to  travel  than  Jordan.  But  it  was 
reserved  for  the  last  part  of  this  nineteenth  century 
to  discover  and  make  the  only  practical  highway  of 
iron  to  India,  or  any  other  place  in  that  neighbor- 
hood, If  it  were  not  for  the  ferry  at  the  Pacific 
end,  it  would,  no  doubt,  push  itself  directly  there. 
However,  as  it  is,  humanity  is  brought  nearer  to- 
gether; the  old  East  his  moved  toward  a better 
reconstruction  of  humanity. 


OMAHA. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

OMAHA  AND  NEBRASKA. 

Omaha,  the  principal  city  in  Nebraska,  rises  sym- 
metrically from  the  west  bank  of  the  Missouri.  You 
see  its  majesty  of  location  and  its  already  extended 
improvement  at  one  view.  It  being  the  starting 
place  and  headquarters  of  the  Pacific  Road,  has  im- 
parted to  the  city  a wonderful  development,  and  it  has 
now  a population  of  1 8,000*  It  has  also  the  river  at 
its  command,  navigable  for  two  thousand  miles  in 
either  direction,  with  the  principal  work-shops  of 
the  Railroad  and  the  lines  from  the  other  parts  of 
the  country  centering  around  it  to  make  their  trans- 
shipments. This  place  is  destined  to  become  one 
of  our  great  interior  cities.  A bridge  will  soon  be 
built  across  the  river  to  Council  Bluffs ; then  the 
same  cars  can  go  back  and  forth  from  one  end  of  the 
continent  to  the  other. 

A considerable  portion  of  Nebraska  presents  good 
inducements  to  the  settler.  For  more  than  two 
hundred  miles  it  is  washed  by  the  tributaries  of  the 
Platte  and  Missouri.  For  some  two  hundred  miles 
west  from  the  river  the  land  is  somewhat  rolling, 
well  watered  and  plenty  of  wood.  This  portion 
of  the  8tate  is  being  settled  rapidly;  well  cul- 


50  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

tivated  farms  are  constantly  in  view,  and  all  look 
healthy  and  prosperous  as  a people  can  who  are 
contending  anew  with  the  unsubdued  rough  ele- 
ments of  nature.  But  the  humble  habitation  of  the 
emigrant  is  passed,  and  nature  for  the  present,  has 
limited  his  settlement  in  this  direction. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

THE  PLAINS. 

**  We  cros9  the  prairie  as  of  old 
The  pilgrims  crossed  the  sea, 

To  make  the  West  as  they  the  East 
The  household  of  the  free.” 

Here  we  must  wait  till  the  rivers  and  streams 
which  gather  in  the  melted  snows  in  summer  on  this 
slope  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  are  damned  and  made 
to  irrigate  this  otherwise  unproductive  soil,  as  to 
cereals,  fruit  and  vegetables.  But  the  native  grass 
is  strong  and  nutritious,  and  pasturage  is  unbound- 
ed ; if  it  were  not  so,  the  countless  herds  of  buffalo 
would  not  have  fattened  and  roamed  these  plains 
for  unnumbered  centuries.  This  country  would 
laugh  now  to  be  called  by  the  opprobrious  name  of 
“American  desert.75  But  the  Railroad  has  killed, 
for  the  present,  whatever  cultivation  these  plains 
had  received  during  the  time  of  slow  moving  emi- 
gration, stage  travel  and  prairie  schooner  freighting. 
The  ranches  and  stations  which  wrere  supported  by 
this  travel  through  the  country  are  now  abandoned, 
for  the  cars  carry  everybody  and  everything.  They 
were  the  out-posts  of  civilization,  but  now  the  old 
roads  are  abandoned  and  the  settlers  have  lost  their 
improvements,  being  obliged  for  better  protection 


I 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


5 1 

| to  move  back  or  ahead,  or  gather  at  the  railroad 
stations.  They  are  the  victims  of  a higher  develop- 
ment; the  iron-tongued  locomotive  calls  them  back  to 
j receive  that  prominent  enterprise  which  she  carries 
along  with  her  through  the  country  for  the  settler, 
i I noticed  that  one  class  of  the  original  inhabitants 
of  this  region  remained  in  their  old  homes  without 
fear  or  favor,  careless  and  unconcerned  as  if  there 
had  been  no  change  in  their  land.  The  prairie  dog 
villages  or  settlements  with  their  traditional  com- 
panions remained  as  of  old.  He  stood  erect  on  the 
threshold  of  his  castle,  his  own  picket  and  scout, 
enjoying  the  world  as  of  old,  like  a gentleman  ar.d 
philosopher.  An  Lonest  real  estate  dealer,  he  con- 
[ ducts  his  business  upon  the  principle  that,  inhabit- 
ants are  requisite  to  make  a city,  and  never  defrauds 
jl  unsuspecting  victims  ; always  jovial,  frolics  merrily 
with  his  fellows  in  the  warm  sun,  making,  seeming- 
ly, his  life  a party  of  pleasure.  There  is  a belief 
that  the  prairie  dog  willingly  gives  the  owl  and 
rattlesnake  a home  in  his  subterranean  house. 

I was  informed  by  an  old  hunter  and  trapper 
through  the  country,  who  had  good  opportunities  of 
| observation,  that  the  prairie  dog  consents  to  share 
his  abode  with  these  ill-assorted  denizens  through 
his  inability  to  avoid  it.  Their  villages  are  on 
the  naked  plains,  where  there  is  neither  rock  for 


i 

i 


TIIE  PLAINS.  53 

the  rattlesnake  nor  shade  for  the  winking  e\esof 
the  owl.  These  idle  and  impudent  foreigners  in- 
trude and  appropriate  to  themselves  the  labors  of 
the  industrious  little  animal  which  provides  himself 
with  a cool  shelter  from  the  burning  sun,  and  a 
comfortable  home  to  shelter  him  from  the  storm. 
Whenever  they  are  driven  to  seek  refuge  from  sun 
or  storm,  they  enter  unceremoniously  and  take  pos- 
session. 

My  now  friend  mountain  man  also  informed  me 
that  the  rattlesnake,  when  other  food  was  not  con- 
veniently obtained,  would  appropriate  to  himself  a 
young  prairie  dog,  and  that  the  owl  waits  at  the  door 
of  its  appropriated  (without  leave)  domicil  to  nab  a 
wandering  mouse  that  might  come  that  way,  instead 
of  going  after  it  as  an  honest  owl  should  do.  How- 
ever, they  seem  friends,  for  I suppose  the  would-be 
lord  and  master  of  the  household  dare  not  be  other- 
wise for  fear  of  ready  vengeance.  I have  seen  him 
when  domestic  troubles  seemed  to  rack  his  little  red 
doggish  constitution,  when  it  was  easy  to  imagine 
he  looked  a lecture,  each  sparkling  eye  a sermon. 
Around  their  burrows  the  earth  is  heaped  up  18  or 
20  inches,  from  the  top  of  which  the  occupants  de- 
light to  survey  what  is  going  on  in  the  community. 
They  feed  at  night,  are  very  shy,  and  when  shot,  un- 
less killed  outright,  will  tumble  back  into  their  bole. 


51  BEYOND  TIIE  WEST. 

Their  flesh  is  tender,  rich  and  juicy,  which  in  such 
a country  is  often  very  desirable.  They  are  often 
found  many  miles  from  any  water ; some  conjecture 
that  they  dig  subterranean  wells,  others  that  they 
live  without  drinking  ; during  winter  they  remain 
torpid,  shut  in  their  subterranean  house,  and  when 
they  come  out  it  is  a sure  indication  of  warmer 
weather.  A remarkable  sameness  is  observable  in 
the  topography  and  geological  features  of  these 
plains,  presenting  a great  contrast  between  the  rich 
green  prairies  of  Illinois,  Iowa,  Missouri  and  a por- 
tion of  Kansas 

“ Away,  away,  from  the  dwellings  of  men, 

To  the  wild  deer’s  haunt  and  the  buffaloes  glen.” 

No  active,  living  town  now  marked  the  lonesome 
plain  to  beat  and  throb  from  life’s  great  business 
vein.  The  vision  wanders  over  the  boundless  ex- 
panse, stretching  all  around  to  the  horizon.  The 
traveler  startles  at  the  thrilling  sensation,  the  illim- 
itable freedom;  his  mind  and  body  both  seem  to 
have  entered  another  country,  expanded  as  the 
boundless  imagery  that  is  spread  in  distance  around 
him. 

After  many  days  and  weary  nights  of  travel,  in 
the  dim  outline  of  distance  to  the  northwest  was 
seen  Long’s  Peak,  clearly  defined  against  ominous 
black  clouds,  more  than  a hundred  miles  ahead. 


THE  PLAINS.  55 

Next  is  seen  Pike’s  Peak  ; at  length  the  whole  west- 
ern horizon  seems  bounded  with  clearly  defined 
mountain  ranges,  towering  up,  standing  against  the 
sky,  large,  massive  and  sublime,  having  the  appear- 
ance of  low  clouds  more  than  mountains. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

DENVER  CITY. 

Denver  City  is  pleasantly  located  under  the 
shadow  of  the  mountains,  on  the  South  Platte  ; is 
substantially  built  of  brick  and  wood  ; has  good 
hotels,  banks,  a United  States  Mint,  some  fine  blocks 
of  buildings,  and  is  the  business  centre  of  a large 
section  of  country. 

The  town  is  settled  down  and  is  much  more  sub- 
stantial now  than  when  I visited  it  before.  It  has 
lived  through  its  fast  and  fickle  days,  when  drinking 
and  gambling  reigned  supreme,  when  to  be  or  not 
to  be”  was  the  all-absorbing  question  with  those 
owning  real  estate  and  doing  business.  The  prob- 
lem is  now  solved.  Denver  is  a fixed  fact — has  all 
the  elements  in  and  around  her  to  become  a pros- 
perous, wealthy  city.  Her  central  location,  contigu- 
ous to  the  mountains  and  the  plains  in  this  section 
of  the  State,  gives  her  an  agreeable  climate  the 
whole  year — gives  her  the  outgo  and  the  income  of 
all  the  mining  districts.  Denver  is  also  the  princi- 
pal market  for  all  the  agricultural  productions  of  the 
farming  counties  ; also  the  central  place  for  travel 
to  and  from  the  mountain  mining  regions  ; also  north 
to  the  Railroad  and  south  to  New  Mexico.  With 


DENVER  CITY.  57 

these  local  facilities,  and  with  an  enterprising,  iutel 
ligent  population  already  of  about  five  thousand, 
growing  from  within  and  without,  and  not  wholly  by 
importations,  it  will  soon  have  the  Pacific  Railroad 
on  the  St.  Louis  route,  connecting  her  with  the 
branch  of  the  Central  that  comes  down  from  Chey- 
3nne,  giving  her  ample  railroad  advantages. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

THE  MOUNTAIN  RANGES. 

Here,  from  the  door  of  our  hotel,  we  contemplate 
in  wonderful  grandeur  the  mountain  ranges,  nature’s 
magnificent  panorama,  such  as  never  feasted  the 
hard  earned  glories  of  human  effort,  equaled  only 
by  the  Great  Artist — face  to  face  with  God’s  won- 
derful yet  beautiful  handiwork. 

The  continental  mountains  dwell  here  in  magnifi- 
cent proportions,  extend  themselves  in  reckless 
luxuriance  of  conscious  greatness,  and  invite  the 
nation  to  her  for  strength,  for  wealth,  for  the  most 
healthful  recreation.  They  may  truthfully  be  called 
the  Mother  Mountains  of  the  continent.  Starting 
from  an  elevation  on  the  plains  of  over  five  hundred 
feet,  these  mountains  go  up  eight,  ten,  eleven  and 
twelvo  hundred  feet  above  the  sea  level.  Peaks  are 
scattered  every  where.  This  flight,  indeed,  they  are 
the  mountain  ranges.  They  do  not  form  a line,  as 
cending  from  one  and  descending  to  another  valley, 
but  are  many  lines  folded  together  and  resting  on 
each  other  in  remarkable  confusion,  the  range 
that  divides  the  waters  that  flow  to  the  Atlantic 
from  those  going  to  the  Pacific.  “ The  divide”  runt 


MOUNTAIN  RANGES. 


59 

very  irregular,  making  quarter  and  half  circles,  and 
then  returning  to  its  mission  as  a north  and  south 
line.  Within  its  leviathan  folds  are  other  divides, 
making  other  feeders  of  the  same  river,  and  other 
ranges  with  peaks  as  high  as  the  parent  among  them 
all,  occasionally,  as  if  weary  with  perpendicularity, 
give  way  to  plains,  with  all  the  characteristics  of 
plains  outside  the  mountain  ranges  ; and  then  the 
added  pleasure  of  having  little  mountains  of  their 
own  to  make  more  interesting  the  landscape, 
while  up  and  around  them  are  stationed  the  old 
grand  patriarchal  sires,  to  guard  and  enfold  what 
are  known  as  the  Parks. 


CHAPTER  X. 

ASCENT  OF  PIKE’S  PEAK. 

As  none  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Peaks  have  such 
universal  notority  over  the  country  as  Pike’s  Peak, 
although  not  ascending  it  myself,  I have  thought 
proper  to  give  A.  D.  Richardson’s  description  of  his 
party’s  ascent,  for  the  benefit  of  the  general  reader. 

The  distance  from  Colorado  to  the  summit  of  Pike’s 
Peak  as  the  bird  flies,  is  five  miles,  by  the  nearest 
practicable  route  about  fifteen. 

A Colorado  gentleman  who  had  once  made  the 
trip,  became  our  guide,  philosopher,  and  comrade. 
Early  in  the  morning,  escorted  by  a party  of  friends, 
we  rode  to  the  Fountain  Qui  Bouille,  stopping  for 
copious  draughts  of  that,  invigorating  water.  A 
mile  further,  the  canyon  became  impracticable  for 
vehicles,  so  that  carriages  turned  back  and  we  began 
our  pedestrian  journey. 

Like  Denver  and  Golden  City,  our  starting  point 
was  higher  above  sea-level  than  the  summit  of  Mount 
Washington.  Six  athletic  miners,  ranch-men  and 
carpenters  who  chanced  to  be  going  up  that  morn- 
ing, led  the  caravan.  Our  own  party  of  five,  in 
single  file,  brought  up  the  rear.  We  were  each 


ASCENT  OF  PIKE’S  PEAK. 


(U 


provided  with  a stout  cane  and  a drinking  cup.  The 
ladies  were  in  bloomer  costume,  with  broad-rimmed 
hats  and  light  satchels  suspended  from  their  belts. 
The  unhappy  trio  of  men  in  thick  boots  and  heavy 
woolen  shirts,  without  coats  or  waistcoats,  carried 
revolvers,  knives,  and  hatchets,  and  bent  under  their 
heavy  packs  of  provisions  and  blankets.  My  own 
weighed  twenty-one  pounds  and  I thought  full  twenty- 
seven  hundred  before  the  weary  journey  was  ended. 

The  steep  narrow  canyon,  unmarked  by  any  trail, 
abounded  in  smooth  precipitious  rocks,  impassable 
for  any  quadruped  less  agile  than  a mountain  goat. 
Along  the  bottom  of  the  gorge,  a brook  leaped  and 
splashed  over  the  rock  in  a stream  of  silver.  The 
overlooking  hills  were  thickly  studded  with  shrubs 
of  oak  and  tali  trees  of  pine,  spruce  and  fir.  Wild 
cherries,  hops,  and  clustering  purple  berries  grew 
in  profusion. 

The  valley  abounds  in  gems  of  beauty,  “ pocket 
editions  of  poetry  in  velvet  and  gold.” 

We  made  our  noon  camp  at  one  of  these,  whiph 
would  cause  the  heart  of  an  artist  to  sing  with  joy. 

The  brook,  first  appearing  in  view  under  a natural 
stone  bridge  above  us,  comes  tumbling  down  in  a 
cascade  of  snow  white  foam,  torn  into  sparkling 
fringes  by  the  jutting  rocks,  and  is  lost  among  the 
huge  boulders  at  our  feet.  An  irregular  mass  of 


6%  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

granite  rise3  upon  one  side  more  than  a hundred  feet, 
and  on  the  other  bank  the  singing  waters  are  shaded 
by  tall  pines  and  blue-tipped  firs.  Between  and  be- 
yond their  dark  branches,  a gray  cone-shaped  hill, 
bare  of  tree  or  shrub,  stands  in  the  back  ground 
against  a wonderfully  blue  and  pellucid  sky. 

A lively  shower  soon  recalled  us  to  the  practical, 
when  it  was  discovered  that  our  whisky,  through  de- 
fective corking,  had  escaped  from  the  bottles.  It 
might  prove  a serious  loss  in  case  of  great  exhaustion; 
but  after  boiling  our  tin-cups  of  tea  by  a fire  of 
branches  we  started  on. 

The  afternoon  climb  was  still  along  the  canyon, 
sinking  knee  deep  into  the  gravelly  hill;  clutching 
desperately  at  friendly  bushes  to  keep  from  falling 
backwards,  and  toiling  upon  hands  and  knees  over 
wet,  slippery  rocks.  At  four  o’clock,  cold  and  wear}r, 
we  encamped  where  our  advanced  party  had  already 
halted.  Supper  was  prepared  and  eaten  before  a 
glorious  fire  of  tree  trunks;  then  the  deep  woods  re- 
sounded with  Laughter  and  song.  But  long  before 
midnight  we  all  slept,  watched  by  the  sentinel  stars, 
which  haste  not,  nor  rest  not,  but  shine  on  forever 

On  the  second  morning  we  made  hasty  toilets 
with  the  brook  for  a mirror,  and  consumed  our  fried 
pork,  biscuit,  and  cups  of  tea  while  sitting  upon  logs. 
We  continued  through  two  rugged  canyons,  with  a 


63 


ASCENT  OF  PTKE’^  PEAK. 

smooth  grassy  valley  between.  Many  of  the  moun 
tains  are  streaked  with  broad  bare  tracks,  left  by 
land  slides.  Vast  masses  of  disintegrated  granite 
are  piled  upon  each  other  in  dreary  wastes.  One 
huge  stone  chair  overlooks  a little  kingdom  of  moun- 
tain and  valley,  but  the  Titan  who  sat  upon  it  was 
long  ago  dethroned  in  one  of  nature’s  terrible  con- 
yulsions,  which  uprooted  hills,  and  scattered  granite 
boulders  like  pebbles. 

The  burdens  already  hung  like  millstones  about 
our  necks.  I began  to  comprehend  the  emotions 
of  a pack  mule,  and  to  wonder  whether  a man  to 
carry  twenty-seven  pounds  of  blankets  up  Pike’s 
Peak,  did  not  belong  to  the  long-eared  species  him- 
self. 

A cold  rain  set  in,  and  at  noon,  drenched  and  shiv- 
ering, we  encamped  under  a shelving  rock.  We  kin- 
dled a fire  and  dined  upon  a rabbit  which  had  sur- 
rendered unconditionally  to  a revolver.  The  only 
true  philosophy  of  getting  wet  is  to  get  soaked. 
Moist  clothing  brings  a hesitating  discomfort,  but  in 
feeling  that  every  thread  is  drenched  there  is  a des- 
perate satisfaction.  So  we  went  forth  in  the  driving 
rain,  and  feasted  upon  ripe  raspberries,  which  grew 
so  abundantly  that  one  could  satisfy  his  appetite 
without  moving.  Then  we  returned  to  camp  tbo 
roughly  saturated,  and  throughout  the  afternoon  made 


UEyoXD  T1IE  WEST. 


i 


; : 

I i 

I I 

: ; 


1 


sorry  essays  at  reading  and  whist  playing.  Early  in 
the  evening  our  robust  Colorado  friends,  who  had 
gone  a mile  beyond  us,  passed  by  on  their  return, 
having  given  up  the  trip  as  too  severe.  We  gath- 
ered an  ample  supply  of  wood.  The  dead  pines, 
often  six  inches  in  diameter  and  thirty  feet  high, 
were  easily  overturned;  their  brittle  roots  snapping 
like  pipe  stems.  As  the  fire  was  our  only  solace, 
we  piled  on  loirs  until  the  'ed  flames  leaped  high 
and  chased  tiie  tnieK.  darkness  away.  Four  of  us 
huddled  under  the  rock,  while  the  fifth,  as  the  least 
of  two  evils,  sat  grimly  in  the  open  air,  wrapped  in 
his  blanket  and  brooding  upon  destiny.  The  rain 
became  very  violent,  and  the  natural  roof  sloping 
unfortunately  in  the  wrong  direction,  showered  the 
water  upon  us  in  melancholy  profusion.  After  many 
dismal  jests  about  our  dreary  situation,  one  by  one 
m\  co-tenants  dropped  asleep.  My  own  latest  recol- 
lection of  that  procrustean  bed  was  at  eleven  o’clock, 
when  I was  wooing  the  drowsy  god  with  my  legs  in 
a mud  puddle,  a sharp  rock  piercing  my  ribs,  and  a 
stream  of  water  pouring  down  my  back.  At  mid- 
night my  friends  arose,  for  the  air  had  grown  very 
chill,  and  sought  our  great  log  fire.  After  enjoyin' 
for  a few  minutes  the  comforts  of  its  red  flames, 
a comfort  mitigated  by  the  pelting  rain,  wrapping 
myself  again  in  a wet  blanket,  and  creeping  as  far 


ASCENT  OF  PIKE^  PEAK.  65 

as  possible  under  the  rock,  I soon  slept  soundly. 
At  daylight  when  I awoke  they  were  still  out  in  the 
driving  rain,  sitting  before  the  flames  in  glowing 
contemplation,  like  Marius  amid  the  ruins.  On  the 
third  morning  we  breakfasted  morosely,  sore  and 
stiff  in  every  joint. 

Less  than  half  the  journey  was  accomplished,  and 
we  had  but  one  day's  provisions  remaining.  One 
of  the  ladies  had  worn  through  the  soles  of  her 
shoes  in  several  places,  and  both  were  wet,  chilled 
and  exhausted,  but  they  would  not  for  a moment  en- 
tertain the  idea  of  turning  back. 

By  seven  o’clock  we  were  again  climbing  the  slip- 
pery rock.  The  rain  ceases,  the  breaking  clouds 
once  more  turn  forth  their  silver  linings 

“ And  genial  morn  appears, 

Like  pensive  beauty  ? miling  through  her  tears.” 

Behind,  at  our  feet,  stretches  an  ocean  of  pure 
white  cloud,  with  mountain  summits  dotting  its  vast 
surface  in  islands  of  purple  and  crimson.  Before  us 
towers  the  stupendous  peak.  In  the  genial  sunlight 
we  begin  to  feel  the  comfort  of  dry  clothing  for  the 
fiist  time  in  twenty-four  hours,  and  press  cheerfully 
on.  The  hills,  swept  for  miles  and  miles  by  vast 
conflagrations,  are  black,  and  bristling  with  the  tall, 
dead  trunks  of  pine  and  fir,  like  the  multitude  of 
masts  in  a great  harbor. 


fifi  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

The  valleys  are  shaded  by  graceful  aspens,  whose 
leaves  quiver  in  the  still  air,  and  carpeted  by  luxuri- 
ant grass  rising  to  our  chins,  and  variegated  with 
flowers  of  pink,  white,  blue  and  purple.  Fallen  tfee 
trunks  abound,  held  by  their  broken  limbs  three  or 
four  feet  above  the  ground.  Climbing  over  them 
is  very  laborious,  and  tears  to  shreds  the  meager 
skirts  of  the  ladies.  The  bloomer  costume  is  better 
than  full  drapery.  But  for  this  trip  women  should 
don  trousers. 

After  five  hours  climbing  slippery  rocks,  we  dine 
luxuriously  in  a raspberry  path,  drinking  tea  from 
our  cups  and  water  from  a spring. 

Thus  far  our  journey  has  been  only  among  foot- 
hills. Now  we  reach  the  base  of  the  peak  itself, 
and  climb  wearily  up  the  rocky  canyon  which  extends 
from  base  to  summit.  The  thin  air  makes  breathing 
very  difficult.  At  five  o’clock  we  encamped,  utterly 
exhausted,  with  wild  eyes  and  flushed  faces  which 
excited  fears  of  fever  and  delirium.  The  ladies  fell 
asleep  the  instant  we  stopped,  and  one  of  the  mas- 
culines sank  upon  the  ground.  Two  of  us  started 
for  water  down  the  stream  bed  ten  yards  distant, 
but  found  it  dry  as  Sahara.  So  we  limped  dowu  the 
gorge  for  half  a mile,  and  in  more  than  an  hour 
reached  camp  again,  each  bearing  two  cups.  My 
companion  had  barely  strength  to  articulate  that  he 


ASCENT  OF  PIKERS  PEAK.  67 

would  only  repeat  the  walk  to  save  his  dearest  friend 
from  dying.  I succeeded  in  gasping  out  an  injunc- 
tion to  take  precious  care  of  the  costly  fluid,  and  we 
lay  down  utterly  exhausted.  But  the  strong  tea,  as 
usual,  revived  us  all,  and  we  started  on  just  as  the 
clouds  broke,  revealing  the  mountains  arid  vast  green 
prairies  far  behind  us,  a dream  of  beauty.  Two  of 
the  party  suddenly  yielded  to  illness,  accompanied 
by  vomiting  fits,  and  reaching  the  verge  of  vegeta- 
tion we  encamped  for  the  night  As  we  rolled  our- 
selves in  blankets  upon  the  ground  beside  our 
roaring  fire,  another  shower  drenched  us,  and  then 
' turned  to  hail.  At  nine  o’clock  our  guide  reaped 
the  harvest  of  his  exposure  and  fatigue  in  distress 
ing  rheumatism,  which  drove  him  from  his  earth 
bed,  and  held  him  writhing  in  pain  during  the  night, 
but  disappeared  with  daylight’s  return. 

On  the  fourth  morning  ice  was  lying  thick  about 
our  camp.  All  the  party  wore  a lean  and  hungry 
look,  but  our  scanty  larder  allowed  to  each  only  a 
little  biscuit,  a bit  of  meat  as  large  as  a silver 
dollar,  and  an  ample  draught  of  tea.  At  five  o’clock 
we  left  our  packs  behind  and  resumed  the  march. 

In  climbing  Mount  Washington  the  vegetation 
grades  down  regularly  from  tall  pines  to  stunted 
cedar  shrubs  with  trunks  five  or  six  inches  thick, 
and  branches  not  more  than  three  feet  high,  running 
along  like  grape  vine^. 


38  BEYOND  TIIE  WEST 

Pike’s  Peak  affords  a sharp  contrast.  We  started 
in  a dense  forest  of  pines  and  firs,  but  vegetation 
ceases  so  abruptly  that  in  ten  minutes  we  stood  upon 
the  open,  barren  mountain  side,  with  no  green  thing 
about  us  except  a few  flowers  and  beds  of  velvety 
grass  among  the  rocks.  The  remainder  of  the  as 
cent  is  very  abrupt.  We  followed  the  line,  which 
in  the  distance  had  appeared  like  a path,  but  now 
proved  a gaping  gorge  a mile  in  width.  The  summit 
seemed  very  near,  but  we  toiled  on  and  on  for  hours 
up  the  sharp  hight.  The  thin  air  made  it  impossi- 
ble to  go  more  than  a hundred  feet  without  pausing 
for  breath  ; but  among  the  grand  scenery  we  forgot 
our  fatigue  and  remembered  our  weariness  no  more. 
The  ladies,  imbued  with  new  life,  could  only  find 
expression  in  singing  the  old  hymn  : 

“ This  is  the  way  I long  have  sought, 

And  mourned  because  I found  it  not.” 

Tufts  of  wood  indicated  the  haunts  of  mountain 
sheep,  an  animal  of  unequaled  agility.  Ue  leaps 
incredible  distances  down  the  rocks,  and  is  even 
reputed  to  strike  upon  his  broad  horns,  which  re 
ceive  the  most  violent  concussions  without  injury. 
The  sky  assumed  a deeper,  richer  blue,  and  the  fields 
of  ice  and  snow  began  to  enlarge.  Even  here  hun- 
dreds of  tulip-shaped  blossoms  of  faint  yellow, 
mingled  with  purple,  opened  their  meek  eyes  beside 


ASCENT  OF  PIKE’S  PEAK.  (V 

the  freshly-fallen  snow!  It  was  worth  all  our  toil 
to  see  the  cheek  of  June,  with  its  purple  flush,  nestle 
among  the  silver  locks  of  December.  Finally  the 
last  flower  and  blade  of  grass  were  left  behind  and 
only  rocks  and  snow  ahead.  It  became  difficult  to 
avoid  falling  asleep  during  our  brief  pauses.  Just 
below  this  we  turned  southward  to  look  down  a 
tremendous  chasm  known  as  the  “ Crater.”  It  is 
half  a mile  wide,  nearly  circular,  inclosed  by  abrupt 
walls  of  rock,  and  fully  twelve  hundred  feet  deep. 
Creeping  to  the  verge  of  the  dizzy  hight,  while  our 
comrades  clung  to  us  with  desperate  clasp  to  save  us 
from  tumbling  over,  we  dislodged  huge  rocks  into 
the  abyss.  Down  they  leaped,  bounding  from  ledge 
to  ledge,  striking  sparks  and  scattering  showers  of 
fire,  with  great  crash  and  roar,  that  came  rolling  up 
to  us  like  peals  of  thunder  long  after  they  were  out 
of  sight.  One  overhanging  rock  affords  to  the 
spectator,  lying  flat  upon  his  face,  an  excellent  view 
of  the  yawning  gulf,  though  its  uncomfortable  tumb- 
ling disquiets  his  nerves. 

At  last,  just  before  noon,  passing  two  banks  of 
snow  which  have  lain  unmelted  for  years,  perhaps 
for  centuries,  we  stood  on  the  highest  poiut  of  Pike’s 
Peak.  The  ladies  of  our  party,  one  a native  of 
Boston,  the  other  of  Derry,  N.  H.,  were  the  first  ol 
their  sex  who  ever  set  foot  upon  the  summit. 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


TO 

Pike’s  Peak  was  named  in  honor  of  General  Zebu* 
Ion  M.  Pike,  a gallant  young  officer,  who  discovered 
and  ascended  it  in  1806,  while  at  the  head  of  an  ex- 
ploring expedition  sent  by  Jefferson’s  administration 
A few  years  later,  before  he  had  reached  the  prime 
of  life,  he  fell  in  the  defence  of  his  country’s  flag,  at 
the  battle  of  Toronto. 

The  summit  embraces  about  fifty  acres.  It  is  oblong 
and  nearly  level,  composed  wholly  of  angular  slabs 
and  blocks  of  disintegrating  granite.  We  found 
fresh  snow  several  inches  deep  in  the  interstices, 
but  the  August  sun  had  melted  it  all  from  the  surface. 

We  were  fortunate  in  having  a clear  day,  which 
gave  us  the  view  in  its  full  sublimity.  Eastward  for 
a hundred  miles,  our  eyes  wandered  over  dim  dreary 
prairies,  spotted  by  dark  shadows  of  the  clouds  and 
the  deeper  green  of  the  prairies,  intersected  by 
faint  gray  lines  of  road,  and  emerald  threads  of 
timber  along  the  streams,  and  banded  on  the  far 
horizon  with  a girdle  of  gold.  At  our  feet,  below 
the  now  insignificant  mountains  up  which  we  had 
toiled,  stood  Colorado,  a confused  city  of  Liliputs, 
and  our  own  carriage  with  a man  standing  near  it. 
Further  south  swept  the  green  timbers  of  the  Foun- 
taine  Qni  Bouille,  the  Arkansas  and  the  Huerfano, 
and  then  rose  the  blue  Spanish  Peaks  of  New  Mexico 
a hundred  miles  distant.  Eight  or  ten  miles  away 


ASCENT  OF  PIKE’S  PEAK.  71 

two  little  gems  of  lakes  were  set  among  the  ragged 
mountains  holding  shadows  of  the  rocks  and  pines 
in  their  transparent  waters.  Far  beyond  a group 
of  tiny  lakelets — (eyes  of  the  landscape)  glittered 
and  sparkled  in  their  dark  surroundings  like  a cluster 
of  stars.  Toward  the  north  we  could  trace  the 
timber  of  the  Platte  for  seventy  miles,  almost  to 
Denver.  To  the  west,  the  South  Park  and  other 
amphitheaters  of  rich  floral  beauty,  gardens  amid 
the  utter  desolation  of  the  mountains,  were  spread 
thousands  of  feet  below  us,  and  beyond,  peak  upon 
peak,  until  the  pure  white  wall  of  the  Snowy  Range 
rose  to  the  infinite  blue  of  the  sky.  North,  south, 
and  west  swept  one  vast  wilderness  of  mountains  of 
diverse  forms  and  mingling  colors,  with  clouds  of 
fleecy  white,  sailing  aerial  among  their  scarred  and 
rugged  summits. 

We  look  upon  four  territories  of  the  Union,  Kan* 
sas,  Nebraska,  Utah,  and  New  Mexico,  and  viewed 
regions  watered  by  four  great  rivers  of  the  continent, 
the  Platte,  Arkansas,  Rio  Grande  and  Colorado;  tri- 
butaries respectively  of  the  Missouri,  the  Mississippi, 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  the  Gulf  of  California.  Upon 
the  north  side  of  the  peak  a colossal  plowshare  seems 
to  have  been  driven  down  from  the  summit  to  the 
base,  its  gaping  furrow  visible  seventy  miles  away, 
and  deep  enough  in  itself  to  burv  a mountain  of 


72  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

considerable  pretensions.  Such  enormous  chasms 
the  armies  of  the  Almighty  must  have  left  in  heaven 
when  to  overcome  Lucifer  and  his  companions, 

“ From  their  foundations  loosening  to  and  fro, 

They  plucked  the  seated  hills  with  all  their  load, 
Rocks,  waters,  woods,  and  by  the  shaggy  tops, 
Uplifting,  bore  them  in  their  hands.” 

At  the  gorge’s  head,  some  enterprising  fellow 
had  posted  a railway  hand-bill,  which,  with  finger 
pointing  directly  down  the  gulf,  asserted  in  glaring 
capitals,  “shortest  and  best  route  to  the  east.,,  It 
seemed  impossible  to  grow  weary  of  the  wonderful 
picture,  but  my  companions,  though  wrapped  in 
heavy  blankets  were  shivering  with  the  cold.  So  we 
iced  and  drank  a bottle  of  champagne  which  a Colo- 
rado friend  had  thrust  into  one  of  the  packs,  and  then 
like  more  ambitious  tourists  placed  a record  in  the 
empty  bottle,  which  was  carefully  re-corked  and 
Juuried  under  a pile  of  stones.  We  spent  a few 
minutes  in  school  boy  pass-time  of  snow  balling; 
then,  after  two  hours  upon  the  summit,  we  reluctantly 
commenced  the  descent,  for  living  without  eating 
was  becoming  a critical  experiment.  Our  guide, 
weakened  by  the  hard  journey,  missed  his  foothold, 
falling  upon  a jagged  rock.  Fortunately  the  metalic 
case  of  his  spy  glass  saved  him  from  a fractured  rib, 
and  after  lying  upon  the  rocks  for  a few  minutes  he 
came  limping  down  with  the  rest.  In  descending, 


ASCENT  OF  PIKE’S  PEAK.  73 

the  rarity  of  the  atmosphere  did  not  retard  us,  but 
we  found  climbing  down  quite  as  exhausting  as 
climbing  up,  and  a raspberry  diet  is  not  invigorating. 

At  five  o'clock  we  reached  the  last  night's  camp, 
glad  to  break  our  twelve  hours' fast  with  ample  cups 
of  tea  and  homeopathic  fragments  of  bread  and  meat. 
After  a brief  halt  we  hastened  on  down  the  ledges 
and  over  tree-trunks. 

When  we  sat  upon  a log  for  a little  rest,  one  of  the 
ladies  appeared  utterly  exhausted.  We  asked  if  we 
should  not  camp  until  morning  that  she  might  re- 
cruit? She  could  not  articulate  a single  word,  but 
shook  her  head  with  indignant  vigor.  Again  press- 
ing on,  an  hour  later  we  kindled  a fire,  went  to  bed, 
or  rather  to  blankets,  and  we  were  instantly  asleep. 

On  the  fifth  morning  when  we  awoke,  only  that 
expressive  colloquialism  which  the  fire  companies 
have  added  to  the  vernacular  could  describe  our 
condition;  we  were  “played  out."  We  swallowed 
our  last  provisions,  a morsel  of  meat  and  a table- 
spoonful of  crumbs  each.  The  unfailing  tea  measur- 
ably restored  us,  but  in  our  exigency  we  would 
gladly  have  exchanged  it  for  the  cup  which  cheers 
and  does  not  intoxicate. 

We  descended  by  a new  route  over  hill  sides, 
crossed  and  recrossed  by  tracts  of  grizzly  bears,  and 
through  canyons  surprising  us  constantly  with  a 


74  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

new  wealth  of  beauty,  which  we  were  hardly  in  con- 
dition to  appreciate.  After  journeying  five  or  six 
hours,  ^we  experienced,  not  the  gnawing  of  hunger, 
but  that  irresistible  faintness  which  the  Irishman  so 
exactly  described  as  “ a sense  of  goneness.’’  Endeav- 
ors to  talk  and  think  of  other  matters  were  fruitless, 
the  “odorous  ghosts  of  well  remembered  dinners” 
would  stalk  unbidden  through  the  halls  of  memory, 
and  in  vain  we  sought  to 

“ Cloy  the  hungry  edge  of  appetite 
By  bare  imagination  of  a feast.” 

At  noon  we  halted  by  the  cascade  which  had  so 
enchanted  us  on  our  first  day's  march,  and  slept  for 
an  hour  under  the  shading  pines.  Then  we  should- 
ered our  packs  for  the  first  time  and  hobbled  on 
down  the  canyon. 

At  four  o’clock  our  guide,  who  was  a few  yards  in 
advance,  suddenly  came  upon  our  waiting  carriage. 
Now  that  the  strain  was  over,  the  nerves  of  the  ladies 
instantly  relaxed.  One  received  the  intelligence 
with  a shower  of  tears — the  other  with  hysteric 
laughter.  In  a moment  we  were  surrounded  by 
Colorado  City  friends,  who,  alarmed  at  our  protract- 
ed absence,  were  out  in  several  parties,  armed  with 
stimulants  and  provisions,  searching  for  us  amon^ 
the  foot-hills. 

Two  hours  later  we  reached  the  town.  My  com 


ASCENT  OF  PIKE’S  PEAK.  75 

panions,  with  haggard  cheeks  and  blood  shot  eyes, 
seemed  but  shadowy  suggestions  of  their  former 
selves.  Each  of  the  ladies  had  lost  just  eight 
pounds  of  flesh  in  less  than  eight  days.  One,  whose 
shoes  were  cut  through  by  sharp  rocks  early  on  the 
journey,  had  been  walking  for  three  days  with  por- 
tions of  her  bare  feet  striking  upon  the  stones,  gravel 
and  snow.  We  were  soon  clothed  and  in  our  right 
minds,  and  eating  heartily. 

No  lasting  inconvenience  was  experienced  from 
the  trip,  except  the  moat  ravenous  and  uncompromis- 
ing hunger  which  continued  at  intervals  for  the  next 
two  weeks.  If  “ he  is  well  paid  who  is  well  satis- 
fied,” the  journey  was  far  the  most  remunerative  any 
of  us  had  ever  taken. 

This  Peak  is  surrounded  by  several  ranges  of 
mountains  risiug  gradually  from  the  plain,  with  large 
and  small  valleys  between,  so  that  a carriage  can 
only  get  within  four  or  five  miles  of  the  base  of  the 
mountain  proper.  A party  wishing  to  make  the 
ascension  ought  to  take  pack  horses  ; then  they  can 
get  over  all  the  space  from  Colorado  City  to  the 
main  ascent  with  little  difficulty,  and  the  party  being 
vigorous,  can  then  gain  the  peak  without  excessive 
fatigue,  and  the  tourist  will  experience  no  incon- 
venience, “ no  evil  will  thence  ensue,”  but  a pleasure 
in  making  it.  1 was  informed  by  a party  who  had 


76  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

made  the  ascent,  that  they  managed  in  this  way: 
left  their  horses  at  the  base  of  the  mountain,  made 
the  ascent,  remained  on  the  summit  two  hours  and 
returned  to  their  horses  the  same  day.  These  were 
of  course  experienced  mountain  men,  and  could  go 
up  and  over  more  mountains  in  a single  day  than  a 
party  like  the  one  described  could  in  four  or  five. 
This  was  my  experience  when  I first  went  to  these 
mountains,  it  was  all  I could  do  to  look  up  to  some 
of  them,  and  have  a kind  of  weak-kneed,  cushioned- 
chair,  feather-bed  country  atmosphere  faint-hearted- 
ness. But  after  a few  months,  getting  tbe  lungs  ad- 
justed to  the  new  atmosphere,  and  the  additional 
strength  of  mountaineer  life,  brought  down  these 
before  formidable  mountain  peaks,  within  the  ability 
and  strength  of  mortals  here  below. 

We  have  given  the  ascent  of  two  principal  moun- 
tains that  the  reader  might  have  a full  knowledge 
of  their  piled  up  magnificence,  nature’s  pyramids. 


J 


CHAPTER  XI. 

THE  ROAI)  TO  80UTII  PARK. 

You  are  invited  to  go  with  me  to  South  Park, 
something  over  a hundred  miles  from  Denver, 
passing  over  one  of  the  most  interesting  roads 
which  penetrate  the  mountains. 

The  pleasant  valleys,  with  their  sleepless  mean- 
dering crystal  streams,  covered  with  green  buffalo 
grass,  mingled  with  wild  flowers,  the  easy  divide, 
the  gentle  slope  of  the  low  foot-hills,  pictured  with 
small  groves  of  trees  having  a very  heavy  foliage, 
together  with  the  remarkable  rock  and  earth  forma- 
tions, presenting  the  appearance  of  extreme  old  age, 
arranged  by  the  operative  elements  of  nature,  dur- 
ing long  centuries,  into  beautiful  architectural 
grandeur  ; remarkable  specimens  of  detached  rock 
in  the  monument  region,  towers  and  pyramids  hun- 
dreds of  feet  high,  scattered  thickly  over  hundreds 
of  acres,  in  the  midst  of  large  tiees,  together  with 
the  smaller  pillars,  statues,  pagan  idols,  cardinals, 
friars,  picturesque  large  and  small  cottages,  Siamese 
twins,  and  a numberless  variety  of  images,  may  be 
detected  among  them,  differing  in  color  and  shape, 
presenting  a scene  of  unusual  beauty  and  magnifi 

78  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

cence — some  located  upon  hills,  like  great  temples 
built  by  human  hands.  One  is  known  as  Table 
Rock,  another  Castle  Rock,  and  another  as  Signal 
Rock,  from  signal  fires  which  the  Indians  formerly 
built  upon  it.  Capital  R >ck  takes  the  form  of  a 
strong  fortification,  with  massive  walls  and  arched 
gateways,  let  out  to  the  slow  but  strong  and  sure 
hands  of  time,  and  being  taken  down  made  an  un- 
systematic mass  of  ruins.  They  culminate  in  huge 
walls  at  the  south,  known  as  the  gardens  of  the 
gods.  Enormous  columns  of  red  rock  rise  perpen 
dicularly  for  three  hundred  feet.  Through  this 
natural  gateway  we  passed  into  a beautiful  enclosure, 
walled  up  oil  every  side  by  very  high  mountains — 
truly  a garden  for  the  gods.  One  isolated  rock  has 
a cave  eight  feet  by  sixty,  and  seventy  feet  in  hight, 
with  walls  smooth  and  seamless.  They  challenge 
the  admiration  of  the  beholder — impress  upon  him 
the  idea  of  a great  mountain  cemetery,  such  as 
Egyptian  kings  never  built  to  perpetuate  ignorant 
ambition.  Then,  too,  the  deep  canyon,  with  moun- 
tain walls  on  either  side,  and  its  sparkling  waters. 
Here  truly  are  <l  books  in  the  running  brooks, if  his- 
tory be  true.  The  view  from  the  entrance  to  the 
Park  is  a landscape  of  arcadian  beauty.  Magnifi- 
cent evergreen  mountain  slopes  within  the  range  of 
vegetable  life,  with  naked  tops  above,  internally 


THE  ROAD  TO  SOUTH  PARK. 


79 


broken  into  valleys,  divided  into  low  ridges,  a va- 
riety of  hot  and  cold  sulphur  springs,  healthful  for 
bathing  ; rich  salt  springs,  wild  game  and  fit*h,  to- 
gether with  an  agreeable  climate  during  the  summer 
season,  makes  this  park  a source  of  pleasure  and 
profit  in  a country  such  as  this.  The  prospecting 
miners’  discoveries  in  and  about  it  for  gold,  have 
been  quite  successful.  Much  placer  mining  in  many 
ot  the  valleys  has  amply  rewarded  the  labor  of  the 
persevering  miner.  Consequently  roads  have  been 
made  through  it  and  settlements  about  it — man}'  of 
them  almost  abandoned  after  the  mines  were  worked 
out.  Few  places  offer  more  remarkable  combination 
of  plains  and  mountains  ; they  come  towards  each 
other  and  mingle  like  an  affectionate  family  in  beau- 
tiful association.  Wide  fields  of  prairie  open  out 
before  the  eye,  upraise  the  vision,  and  magnificent 
snowy  mountains  carry  the  sight  to  the  clouds.  Be- 
tween these  scenes  of  natural  beauty  are  gently 
rolling  hills,  thick  diversified  groves,  clear  and 
beautiful  brooks,  blending  nearly  all  the  delightful 
panorama  of  natural  grand  scenery  that  hill  and 
dale,  mountain  and  plain,  winter  and  summer,  snow 
and  vegetation,  trees  and  rocks,  transparent  lakes 
and  waste  can  present  in  comparison,  not  from  one 
place,  but  from  da} ’s  journey  to  day’s  journey,  ever 
changing  in  beautiful  alliances. 


8u 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


An  intelligent  miner  told  me  that  nearly  all  this 
park  was  rich  in  gold — would  pay  from  three  to  four 
dollars  per  day  to  wash  it  over.  But  I hope  it  will 
not  be  done,  at  least  till  after  every  body  has  visit- 
ed these  mountains  and  parks,  for  the  business 
leaves  great  waste  in  its  track. 

“ The  San  Louis  Park”  lies  along  and  around  the 
Arkansas  and  its  tributaries  in  Southern  Colorado 
and  Northern  New  Mexico,  and  is  the  largest  and, 
perhaps,  the  most  varied  of  the  series  of  great  parks. 
It  centers  about  a grand  lake,  and  is  rich  alike  in 
agriculture  and  mineral  promise. 

“The  Indians  have  robbed  us  of  our  promised 
peep  into  its  lines,  and  we  know  it  only  by  its  kinship 
to  those  we  have  visited,  and  the  enthusiastic  de- 
scription of  those  to  whom  it  is  familiar.”  The 
South  Park,  however,  is  a favorite  place  for  very 
many  Coloradians,  and  others,  perhaps,  on  account 
of  more  easy  access,  and  its  attraction  more  gener- 
ally known.  The  salt  works  here,  from  which  the 
country  is  supplied  with  that  necessary  article  for 
domestic  use,  and  for  mining,  is  largely  manufac- 
tured ; also  the  hot  springs,  boiling  up  from 
the  ground,  very  strongly  impregnated  with  soda. 
One  has  a basin  three  feet  in  diameter,  rising  from 
the  midst  of  a seeming  great  rock,  like  the  High 
Rock  Spring,  Saratoga,  through  which  a large  body 


THE  HOAD  TO  SOUTH  PARK.  81 

of  water  gushes  up  with  great  force.  Coloradians 
and  others  mix  their  flour  in  this  water,  without  so- 
da or  salaratus,  making  light  and  good  bread.  When 
mixed  with  tartaric  acid  and  lemon  juice,  it  will 
foam  like  champagne,  and  is  as  agreeable  as  any  that 
can  be  had  at  an  artificial  soda  fountain.  It  is  said 
to  possess  desirable  medicinal  properties  ; and  the 
location,  combining  so  many  objects  of  interest  and 
grandeur,  will,  when  the  railway  is  made,  be  a pleas- 
ant summer  resort  in  the  alluring  park.  It  lies 
closely  in  the  lap  of  the  mountains  ; Mount  Lincoln 
on  the  northwest  to  keep  sentinel,  and  protect  it 
from  destructive  storms,  and  feed  it  from  its  melt- 
ing snows  ; while  Pike’s  Peak  on  the  southeast  shad- 
ows it  from  the  heated  rays  of  the  sun. 

Notwithstanding  the  great  elevation  of  these 
parks,  the  traveler  has  in  summer  very  agreeable 
sunshine  and  an  exhilarating  atmosphere.  Here 
vegetation  grows  much  higher  up  than  it  does  in 
other  parts  of  the  country.  In  the  White  Moun- 
tains vegetation  stops  at  an  elevation  of  five  thou- 
sand feet.  But  here  the  mountain  ranges  begin  to 
lift  themselves  up  out  of  the  plains  at  that  altitude, 
and  some  kinds  of  grain  and  vegetables  grow  h^re 
at  seven  and  eight  thousand  feet  above  sea  level. 

These  now  romantic  parks  were  long  centuries 
ago  walled  in  mountain  seas.  The  road  by  which 


82  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

they  departed  to  the  ocean,  when  the  mandate  went 
forth,  calling  the  waters  together,  are  clearly  marked, 
leaving  unmistakable  evidence,  such  as  oceanic 
waters  alwajMS  leave  behind.  There  can  be  no  doubt 
but  that  ocean  water  once  covered  this  country,  for 
sea  shells  and  various  kinds  of  fishes,  and  small  ani- 
mals are  found  here  petrified,  such  as  are  only  found 
in  salt  water.  Some  have  been  found  here  ten 
thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Do  you 
suppose  that  the  oceans  ever  covered  this  continent 
to  such  a hight?  I cannot  but  think  that  the  ocean 
once  covered  all  this  country,  and  when  the  great  up- 
heaval took  place  the  mountain  ranges  were  brought 
forth  from  under  the  ocean,  and  that  these  great 
parks  were  originally  dammed  up  mountain  seas,  and 
that  in  time  they  made  a channel  through  the  low 
divides  and  went  back  to  their  mother  ocean — leav- 
ing in  their  places  the  fossil  remains,  the  garden  of 
the  “ gods  and  the  fountains  that  boil.” 

The  little  miners’  town  of  Montgomery  is  almost 
hid  in  the  northernmost  part  of  South  Park,  under 
the  divide  which  separates  it  from  Middle  Park; 
the  easiest  and  much  the  best  place  to  go  from  one 
to  the  other.  I would  advise  all  who  wish  to  do  so 
to  go  this  way  and  not  by  the  way  of  Gray’s  Park 
which  is  much  more  tedious  and  accomplished  only 
by  hard  labor. 


THE  ROAD  TO  SOUTH  PARK. 


83 


I had  now  been  ia  the  mountains  sufficiently  to 
learn  from  personal  experience  that  these  towering 
edifices  of  nature,  though  grand  and  majestic  to  the 
eye  of  the  passing  traveler,  assume  still  greater  pro- 
portions of  magnitude  when  one  attempts  to  ascend 
them. 

“ As  on  through  life’s  journey  we  go,  day  by  day, 

There  are  two  whom  we  meet  at  each  turn  of  the  way, 

To  help  or  to  hinder,  to  bless  or  to  ban, — 

And  the  names  of  the  two  are  “ 1 can't”  and  “ can” 

“ I can't”  is  a dwarf,  a poor,  pale,  puny  imp, 

His  eyes  are  half  blind,  and  his  walk  is  a limp; 

He  stumbles  and  falls  or  lies  writhing  with  fear, 

Though  dangers  are  distant,  and  succor  is  near. 

“ I can”  is  a giant ; unbenuing  he  stands ; 

There  is  strength  in  his  arms  and  skill  in  his  hands; 

He  asks  for  no  favors;  he  wants  but  a share 
Where  labor  is  honest  and  wages  are  fair. 

11 1 can't”  is  a sluggard,  too  lazy  to  work ; 

From  duty  he  shrink*,  every  task  he  will  shirk ; 

No  bread  on  his  board,  and  no  meal  in  his  bag ; 

His  house  is  a ruin,  his  coat  is  a rag. 

“/ can”  is  a worker;  he  tills  the  broad  fields-, 

And  digs  from  the  earth  all  the  wealth  which  it  yields. 

The  hum  of  his  spindles  begins  with  the  light, 

And  the  tires  of  his  forges  are  blazing  all  night. 

“I can't”  is  a coward,  half  fainting  with  fright; 

At  the  first  thought  of  peril,  he  slinks  out  of  sight; 

Skulks  and  hides  till  the  noise  of  the  battle  is  past, 

Or  sells  his  best  friends  and  turns  traitor  at  last. 

“/  can”  is  a hero,  the  first  in  the  field ; 

Though  others  may  falter,  he  never  will  yield  ; 

He  makes  the  long  marches,  he  deals  the  last  blow, 

His  charge  is  the  whirlwind  that  scatters  the  foe. 


84  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

How  grandly  and  nobly  he  stands  to  his  trust, 
When,  roused  at  the  call  of  a cause  that  is  just, 

He  weds  his  strong  will  to  the  valor  of  youth. 

And  writes  on  his  banner,  the  watchword  of  irutM 

Then  up  and  be  doing  1 the  day  is  not  long ; 

Throw  fear  to  the  wines,  be  patient  and  strong  ! 
Stand  fast  in  your  place,  act  your  part  like  a man, 
And,  when  duty  calls,  answer  promptly,  “/can.” 


MONTGOMERY  C1TY.-MOUNT  LINCOLN. 


1 

CHAPTER  XII. 

MOUNT  LINCOLN. 

Having  procured  a guide,  we  left  the  picturesque 
little  town  of  Montgomery  in  the  early  morning,  and 
slowly  wound  our  way  from  the  habitation  of  man  I 

up  through  the  thick  forest,  where  nature’s  great 
heart  beat  strong  amid  the  trees  until  we  reached 
the  limit  of  timber,  where  the  trees  dwindled  to 
dwarfs  a foot  in  bight,  with  trunks  six  to  eight 
inches  through,  having  long,  low  branches  lying  on 
the  ground,  twisted  into  contortions  by  the  storms 
which  pass  over  them  ; then  came  a few  blades  of 
grass  to  the  acre,  little  scattering  flowers,  very  small 
in  leaf  and  blossom,  red,  white  and  blue  ; next 
came  moss  and  lichens,  the  last  condensed  expres- 

j 

sion  of  nature,  which  terminated  at  the  snowline. 

Here  the  field  of  granulated  snow  and  ice  began  to 
enlarge  ; soon  all  kindsof  life  were  left  behind — only 
loose-lying  rocks,  intermingled  with  snow  and  ice  in 
wild  confusion.  Passing  a small  lake  in  the  side  of 
the  mountain,  which,  as  I was  informed,  had  evet 
been  covered  with  ice,  thawing  enough  in  summer 
only  to  loosen  the  ice  a little  from  the  sides,  and  stop- 
ping often  to  rest  the  lungs,  tired  of  their  expansion 

80  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

in  inhaling  the  light  air,  the  heart  and  lungs  now 
worked  as  they  never  did  before,  shaking  our  very 
bodies  in  their  hurry  to  keep  up  with  their  work 
to  get  even  with  the  air.  After  climbing  over  blocks 
of  granite,  volcanic  rocks,  fragments  of  quartz  and 
lava  piled  up  in  the  wildest  confusion,  quite  ex- 
hausted we  reached  the  summit,  and  sat  down  upon 
the  very  crest  and  devoured  the  little  we  had 
brought  for  the  inner  man — 15,000  feet  above  sea 
level,  2,000  feet  higher  than  Long’s  Peak,  and  3.000 
feet  higher  than  Pike’s  Peak.  The  summit  termi- 
nates in  a small  space,  about  an  acre  of  loose  rocks 
and  ice. 

“ This  was  the  way  I long  had  sought.” 

I never  realized  such  poverty  of  language  as  when  I 
stood  upon  that  commanding  peak.  The  scene  is  more 
than  a recompense  for  the  travel — the  most  magnifi- 
cent view  in  all  my  mountain  wanderings.  It  takes 
a place  beside  the  few  natural  wonders  of  the  world. 
Such  wonderful  sweep  of  distance,  such  sublime 
combination  of  bight-,  breadth  and  depth,  such  wel- 
come to  the  immortal  thought,  uplifting  mortal  lit 
tleness  almost  into  the  presence  of  God  f 
“ The  world,  how  far  away  it  seemed,  and  God,  how  near!” 
We  can  easily  fancy  the  genius  of  solitude  sitting 
fir  ages  on  that  desolate  mountain  peak,  recording 
upon  its  strong,  stony  tablets  uncounted  centuries 


MOUNT  LINCOLN.  87 

of  desolation.  Its  sides  are  precipitous  and  rent 
with  deep,  dark  chasms  hundreds  of  feet  deep,  into 
which  the  light  of  day  never  penetrates.  Few  ever 
beheld  a more  magnificent  prospect,  seldom  equaled, 
and  excelled  by  none — a wilderness  of  mountain 
ranges. 

Colorado  is  before  you  ; the  magnificent  parks  as 
seen  from  here,  with  their  undulating  hills,  trans- 
parent brooks  and  lakes,  enclosing  slopes  of  forests, 
green  pastures,  together  with  “Lo!  the  poor  Indian/’ 
who,  I presume,  here  sees  truly  the  Great  Spirit  in 
the  clouds  and  hears  him  in  the  winds,  and  the  wild 
animals  that  live  in  them — presenting  a view  of  un-  * 
surpassed  extent  and  varied  beauty,  worth  a journey 
across  the  plains.  You  look  over  Long’s  Peak  north 
to  Dacotah  ; you  survey  the  hills  of  Utah  to  the  west, 
stretching  far  away  toward  the  golden  shores  of  the 
Pacific  ; you  look  over  Spanish  Peaks  south  into 
New  Mexico,  and  turning  to  the  east  your  vision 
wanders  over  Pike’s  Peak,  to  where  the  extended 
plains  appear  to  be  spread  out  like  a great  ocean, 
and  seem  to  rise  up  like  the  bosom  of  the  deep,  ever 
conscious  of  its  own  immensity.  Here  the  Atlantic 
and  Pacific  Oceans  met,  and  here  they  parted — the 
ridge  poleof  the  continent  north  and  south,  once  the 
dividing  line  between  Kansas  and  Utah*  Here  are 
centered  the  white  folds  of  four  separating  moun- 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


88 

tain  ranges,  ranges  of  eternal  Snow.  Here  the  great 
rivers,  the  Platte,  Arkansas,  Colorado,  the  Rio 
Grande  and  the  Blue,  sired  by  the  eternal  hills  and 
wedded  with  the  sea  flowing  to  the  two  oceans,  ris- 
ing together,  go  off  east  and  west  towards  the  rising 
and  the  setting  sun,  begin  their  journey  in  the  eter- 
nal snows  of  the  dividing  range.  From  its  sides 
these  great  rivers  take  their  beginning  with  which 
to  feed  both  oceans,  whose  waves  age  on  age  have 
rolled  to  meet  these  mighty  streams. 

As  we  were  about  to  return,  a huge  black  cloud 
came  hastily  over  the  mountain  tops  from  the  west, 

* and  soon  piercing  blasts  of  wind  shrieked  among 
the  rocks,  and  snow  darkened  the  air  when  we  be- 
gan our.  return.  We  soon  became  charged  with 
electricity,  so  that  our  hair  seemed  full  of  bees,  and 
sparks  flew  from  the  ends  of  our  fingers  with  a hiss** 
ing  sound.  Lightning  danced  around  and  over  the 
rocks,  and  played  about  us,  quite  blinding  the  sight. 
We  felt  like  ‘‘fleeing  before  the  Lord,”  but  as  our 
bodies  were  charged  equally  with  the  mountain,  there 
was  no  danger. 

There  is  a sublime  grandeur  in  these  elements  as 
they  are  presented  here.  I was  reminded  of  that 
remarkable  interview  between  man  and  his  Maker, 
when,  amid  thundering  and  lightning,  and  a fearful 
quaking  of  the  mountain,  He  gave  to  his  chosen  peo- 


MOUNT  LINCOLN.  89 

people  the  tables  of  his  law.  Black  clouds  rolled 
over  each  other  a mile  or  more  below  us  like  great 
monsters  in  the  ethereal  ocean.  We  remained  till 
the  freezing  air  and  the  rapidly  falling  snow  (as  it 
was  in  July)  chilled  us,  when  we  began  to  return. 
Slowly  feeling  our  way  down  tlr  ough  the  clouds,  we 
retraced  the  tedious  hard-going  way  to  the  valley,  and 
gained  the  town  in  earl}'  evening,  having  traveled 
about  sixteen  miles. 

In  honor  of  the  President,  under  whose  adminis- 
tration the  territory  had  been  organized,  the  peak 
was  a few  years  ago  named  “ Mount  Lincoln.5’  Let 
other  States  erect  their  monuments  to  perpetuate 
the  name  and  great  deeds  of  the  noble  dead.  Colo 
rado  has  this  monumental  mountain,  more  enduring 
than  brass  and  loftier  than  the  pyramids.  Storms 
may  sweep  over  it,  quartz  mills  may  stamp  their 
iron  feet  beneath  its  shadow,  tunnels  may  pierce  its 
sides,  and  the  mineral  wealth  of  centuries  be  poured 
out  into  the  treasury  of  the  world,  but  its  founda- 
tions will  remain  unmoved.  Its  base  is  clothed  in 
nature’s  beautiful  wreath  of  evergreen,  while  its 
top  reaches  so  near  the  heavens  as  to  attain  the 
spotless  purity  of  eternal  white. 


I 


I! 

! 


1 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

THE  MIDDLE  PARK. 

As  we  have  said,  Montgomery  is  the  easiest  place 
to  reach  this  park,  only  a single  divide  between  them, 
which  is  easily  traveled  over  with  wagons,  as  a very 
good  road  was  made  along  the  mountain  side  a few 
years  ago,  to  bring  quartz  down  from  the  other  side 
of  the  range. 

Starting  right  early  in  the  morning  from  the  town, 
the  summit  was  soon  reached,  and  we  stood  where 
the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  start  off  almost 
from  our  feet.  I would  advise  all  pleasure  travelers 
to  visit  this  place.  The  picturesque  landscape,  the 
two  parks  as  seen  from  here,  present  a view  hardly 
to  be  surpassed,  if  ever  equaled,  even  in  Switzerland 
or  in  the  mountains  of  New  Hampshire;  no  traveler’s 
pen  would  presume  to  properly  describe  it;  must  be 
seen  to  be  appreciated — the  isolated  presence  of  ma- 
jestic nature. 

Our  road  lay  from  here  down  the  Blue  river  six- 
teen miles  to  Breckenridge — the  first  six  or  seven 
we  passed  over  one  immense  snow  field.  With  our 
early  start  in  the  morning  we  were  able  to  get  over 
on  the  crust;  whereas,  had  we  waited  till  near  mid- 


THE  MIDDLE  PAHK.  91 

d iy,  it  would  have  been  passed  with  much  hardship 
after  the  crust  melted.  Some  mountain  men  have 
snow  shoes  about  ten  feet  long,  turned  up  a little  in 
front,  with  a place  in  the  center  for  the  foot;  with 
these  and  a stick  about  the  same  length,  to  hold  one 
end  iu  the  hand  and  drag  the  other  on  the  snow  for 
bracing,  they  travel  over  these  snow  fields  with  ease 
and  rapidity. 

The  valley  is  narrow,  descends  for  sixteen  miles, 
some  places  but  a little  wider  than  the  river,  with 
mountain  peaks  going  up  sharply  on  either  side, 
clothed  in  snow. 

This  country  confounds  the  almanacs,  makes  July 
January,  and  January  July — reverses  the  seasons, 
and  then  reverses  them  back  again.  All  the  different 
seasons  of  the  year  are  represented  at  one  place 
here,  within  the  limits  of  a single  view. 

While  we  were  in  South  Park,  our  bodily  man 
was  cared  for,  among  the  various  mining  towns — 
but  now  on  leaving  Breckenridge,  reluctantly  how- 
ever. as  spring  supplies  had  not  then  arrived,  we 
were  obliged  to  set  up  house  keeping  for  ourselves 
and  family,  the  highly  romantic  and  heroic  mode  of 
eating  and  sleeping  one’s  self.  But  as  “ man  wants 
but  little  here  below, a coffee  pot,  frying  pan,  jack- 
knife and  a pair  of  blankets  is  a fair  setting  out  in 
this  country,  for  the  most  respected  and  wealthy,  for 


1*2  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

those  that  move  in  the  best  society.  Being  thus 
furnished  and  supplied,  we  go  out  somewhat  aftei 
the  manner  of  the  “ prodigal  son” — being  well  down 
in  the  park,  having  come  down  hill  all  the  way  for 
sixteen  miles,  and  yet  it  is  eight  thousand  feet  above 
sea  level. 

This  park  is  large  enough  to  make  a New  England 
State,  is  the  summer  home  of  some  of  the  Indian 
tribes;  in  winter  they  move  further  south.  No  grain 
or  vegetables  can  be  grown  here  on  account  of  the 
altitude. 

This  park  is  much  more  broken  into  hills  and 
winding  valleys  than  the  other,  its  frequent  ir- 
regularities and  ranges  of  hills  break  the  plain  and 
changes  from  bottom  land  to  light,  cold  gravelly 
upland,  with  bunch  grass  in  places.  Slow  moving 
streams  and  quick  streams  alternate;  further  away 
; re  ranges  thickly  wooded,  and  still  further  on  are 
the  ranges  which  bound  the  park  and  enclose  it  in 
eternal  snows.  The  sun  is  warm,  and  some  of  the 
valleys  are  rich  with  grass,  yet  the  tourist  seems  to 
breathe  in  the  prevailing  impression  of  a certain  kind 
of  stintedness.  It  is  found  in  the  earth,  in  the  leaf, 
in  the  grass,  and  hangs  around  the  mountains.  The 
altitude  is  such  as  to  make  all  kinds  of  vegetation 
dwarfish.  An  abundance  of  good  grass  in  the  lower 
valleys  and  along  Grand  River  in  summer,  where 


THE  MIDDLE  PARK.  93 

animals  will  not  only  live,  but  they  grow  fat  upon  it, 
which  is  the  only  real  use  this  park  will  give  the 
white  man,  but  it  is  the  Eden  of  the  Ute  Indians; 
here  they  can  extend  their  arms  and  thank  God  for 
the  freedom  of  their  existence.  Here  in  the  midst 
of  the  mountains,  unmolested,  where  wild  game  and 
fish  are  within  their  reach,  away  from  any  path  of 
civilization,  they  continue  to  live  as  the  free  children 
of  nature. 

In  a romantically  pleasant  spot  I found  about  a 
hundred  lodges,  a village  of  the  Ute  Indians,  on  the 
bank  of  Grand  River,  near  the  Hot  Spring.  The 
dogs  were  the  only  party  that  gave  us  a fighting 
greeting.  We  knew  them  friendly,  and  I had  had 
experience  enough  with  them  to  know  that  once  in 
their  village,  on  their  hospitality,  all  danger  was 
passed  while  with  them.  Begging  and  good  fellow- 
ship was  manifest  everywhere,  always  “ heap  hungry/’ 
ever  begging.  Yet  mountain  and  streams  are  at 
your  disposal,  should  they  be  needed.  They  never 
forget  to  ask  for  (tea  cup)  biscuit,  they  will  exchange 
any  thing  they  have  for  this  or  flour.  As  I intend 
to  devote  a chapter  in  this  work  to  the  red  man  and 
his  family  I leave  them  for  the  present. 

The  Hot  Springs  of  this  park  are  the  principal  at- 
traction, together  with  good  hunting  and  fishing, 
and  with  an  unusually  healthy  air,  makes  it  an 


94  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

inviting  resort  for  the  pleasure  seeker  and  the  in- 
valid. They  are  a curiosity  and  a virtue,  are  now  a 
considerable  resort  for  Coloradians  and  others  in  the 
summer  season,  and  when  a more  practicable  road 
is  made  to  them,  the  park  will  be  a young  mountain 
Saratoga.  We  found  quite  a number  of  visitors  here 
and  there  is  no  time  during  the  summer  months 
when  no  one  is  there. 

On  the  hillside,  some  way  up  from  the  Grand  River, 
these  springs  boil  up  in  several  places  commingling 
together  a short  distance  below,  unite  in  one  stream, 
flow  over  an  abrupt  place  about  twelve  feet  high, 
into  a little  round  pond  below,  which  unite  and  make 
A a natural  bathing  house.  The  water  seems  at  first 
scalding  hot,  and  often  at  first  drives  the  bather  out, 
supposing  himself  a little  scalded,  but  by  putting  in 
first  a hand,  then  the  a«  m and  other  parts  of  the  body 
a little  at  a time,  you  soon  get  accustomed  to  the 
heat  and  the  fall,  and  the  experience  is  unusually 
exhilarating.  The  invigorating  effects  are  remark- 
able; no  lassitude,  no  unpleasant  feelings  as  is  ex- 
perienced after  an  ordinary  hot  bath  elsewhere. 

These  springs  are  all  different,  both  as  to  heat 
and  composition;  each  has  its  peculiarities,  but  no 
unpleasant  sensation  is  felt  even  by  invalids  coming 
from  one  into  the  other.  Visitors  usually  enjoy  this 
healthful  luxury  twice  a day,  morning  and  evening. 


TTTK  MIDDLE  PARK.  95 

during  their  stay  here;  making  the  old  growyounger 
• and  the  younger  more  joyous.  The  experience  is 
very  exhilarating;  after  a hard  day’s  work  a bath 
will  cause  one  to  forget  the  burthens  of  the  day,  the 
effect  on  the  body  is  so  restorative.  The  Indians 
believe  them  to  have  wonderful  curative  properties, 
and  resort  to  them  not  only  to  cure  themselves,  but 
also  their  sick  horses. 

The  waters  resemble  and  taste  very  much  like 
those  at  Sharon  Springs;  sulphur,  soda  and  iron  are 
deposited  about  them  in  quantity;  the  principal 
difference  being,  these  are  hot,  those  cold  ; their 
medicinal  properties,  I presume,  quite  the  same. 
There  are  many  rare  and  valuable  stones  found  here: 
petrifactions,  jaspers  and  crystals  are  scattered  all 
about,  but  the  celebrated  “ moss-agate  patch”  lies  a 
dozen  miles  away  over  the  river  where  this  beauti- 
ful crystalization  is  found  all  around. 

There  are  many  objects  in  this  park  that  invite 
the  traveler  to  prolong  his  stay,  none  more  so  than 
the  delicious  trout  with  which  the  river  and  streams 
abound.  Antelope  are  here  in  large  numbers,  but 
the  buffalo  does  not  frequent  these  inner  mountain 
parks. 

We  prolonged  our  stay  here  beyond  the  time  we 
intended,  and  gratefully  and  regretfully  we  took  a 
long  lingering  look  behind  at  the  Hot  Springs  as 


BEYOND  THE  V\ 


96 

we  go  over  to  the  Boulder  Pass,  and  leave  the  fasci- 
nating  park,  to  be  remembered  as  a “joy  for  ever.” 
Soon  we  pass  over  low  hills,  through  valleys,  into  a 
succession  of  woods  and  open  spaces  as  we  gradually 
ascend  the  mountains,  affording  fine  views  of  portions 
of  the  park.  The  road  goes  zigzag  round  and  over 
the  mountain  ranges,  sometimes  through  rough  seams 
in  the  mountain  sides,  where  fire  and  water  seemed 
to  have  been  at  work  in  time  past,  to  overturn  red, 
brown  and  gray  rocks;  nature  everywhere  convulsed 
and  broken  from  her  original  beds  and  form,  as  if 
here  was  the  great  supply  warehouse  and  workshop 
of  creation.  A few  hours  travel  over  them  brought 
us  to  the  foot-hills  along  the  plains,  and  we  again  wel- 
come the  new  materials  in  the  landscape,  for  we  can 
look  once  more  far  away  over  the  plains  to  the  east, 
towards  home  and  friends. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

NORTH  PARK. 

The  North  Park  is  separated  from  the  one  we 
have  just  left  by  a high  cross  range  of  the  main 
mountains.  This  park  extends  up  to  the  northern 
line  of  Colorado  to  within  a few  miles  of  the  Pacific 
Railroad.  It  is  very  much  diversified,  internally 
broken,  and  more  wild  and  unfrequented  than  the 
others.  Its  soil  is  colder,  as  its  elevation  is  higher 
— less  fertility  and  less  vegetation.  Every  kind  of 
vegetable  growth  looks  as  though  it  was  straggling 
against  the  frowns  of  nature.  It  gives  to  the  wolves, 
antelopes,  bears,  deers  and  smaller  wild  animals  a 
more  secure  home  than  the  more  frequented  parks 
below.  They  have  but  few  enemies  here,  save  the 
red  men,  and  them  only  in  summer  ; old  winter  and 
the  bears  have  undisputed  possession  during  that 
season. 

Through  and  out  of  this  park  flow  the  head-waters 
of  the  North  Platte.  Its  streams  are  full  of  trout, 
while  its  sage  brush  give  protection  to  the  numer- 
ous sage  hens,  and  the  hillsides  are  sprinkled  with 
buffalo  and  bunch  grass  for  the  numerous  deer*. 
Those  who  desire  excessive  wild  life  can  find  it  here 


98 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


unbroken  ; they  will  have  the  original  principles  in 
their  fullness.  If  a party  of  six  or  more,  wishing  to 
spend  the  summer  in  the  mountains,  would  rendez- 
vous at  the  railroad  early  in  June  with  a traveler’s 
mountain  outfit,  and  begin  their  journey  in  the 
north  end  of  this  Park,  they  would  have  a summer’s 
romantic  enjoyment  that  would  truly  be  a life  long 
pleasure.  I can  not  imagine  a travel  in  Europe  or 
this  country  that  would  give  more  satisfaction,  more 
varied  knowledge,  more  wonderful  unlike  experi- 
ences of  unalloyed  pleasure,  than  to  start  from  the 
north  part  of  the  North  Park  and  go  through  the 
whole  line  of  these  incarcerated  mountain  parks,  a 
distance  of  more  than  five  hundred  miles  from  San 
Louis  Park,  below  the  Arkansas  in  New  Mexico. 
This  journey  could  be  made  leisurely  during  the 
summer  months,  and  those  who  want  to  have  a sum- 
mer vacation,  I am  certain  would  have  no  cause 
to  regret  having  made  this  travel.  All  of  it  will  be 
so  different  from  our  home  experiences,  and  }7ou  will 
fee)  so  independent  and  regardless  of  time,  or  being 
fix  d up  in  a conventional  hotel,  with  freedom  for 
thought  and  action,  looseness,  and  let  loose  to  go  un- 
bridled to  the  outer  world,  only  to  return  with 
established  health  and  increased  knowledge.  But 
you  will  lose  some  little  home  notions,  for  which  your 
wife  would  be  thankful,  (should  you  be  troubled  with 


NORTH  PARK. 


99 

such  a necessary  evil.)  You  will  take  no  thought 
of  what  you  shall  have  for  dinner,  or  as  to  what  you 
are  to  wear,  but  take  whatever  you  have  and  be 
thankful. 

I found  in  Middle  Park  Pr  *fessor  Powell,  of  Illi- 
nois, at  the  head  of  a scientific  exploring  expedi- 
tion. The  party  was  made  up  of  a dozen  or  more 
young  men,  interested  in  various  departments  of 
natural  science,  giving  their  time  and  labor  for  the 
enterprise,  and  for  the  benefits  they  expected  to 
derive  from  it — information  and  health.  They  were 
spending  the  summer  in  the  parks  and  mountains 
adjoining,  taking  notes  with  barometer  and  ther- 
mometer, and  collecting  all  the  vegetable  produc- 
tions, animals,  birds  and  fish.  The  field  of  observation 
and  investigation  undertaken  by  this  enterprise  is 
important  to  the  scientific  world.  The}7  have  before 
them  an  almost  unbounded  field  of  study  in  physical 
geography,  geology  and  natural  history,  as  they  in 
tend  to  explore  the  great  western  division  of  Colo- 
rado, now  comparatively  unknown.  But  few  have 
crossedit!  Adventurous  miners  have  penetrated 
into  some  of  its  valleys,  but  it  has  no  real  popula 
tion,  and  is  unknown  as  much  or  more  so  than  any 
other  part  of  our  country.  The  mountain  ranges 
lean  down  through  it  into  the  great  interior  bosom 
of  the  farther  southwest,  instead  of  breaking  off,  ae 


100  I>E YOK'D  THE  WEST. 

they  do,  abruptly  on  the  eastern  side.  The  rivers 
Grand,  White,  Gieen  and  the  Genison,  the  head 
sources  of  the  great  Colorado,  dash  furiously  through 
it,  often  imprisoned  in  unapproachable  canyons,  then 
flow  through  wide  and  grassy  valleys  in  the  south. 

We  hear  of  rich  mines  and  basins  of  broken  and 
ruined  mountains,  of  great  conflicts  of  nature,  and 
many  a strong  faith  in  ungotten  wealth  I have  heard 
expressed  as  to  this  section  ; but  it  has  yet  to  be 
explored  ; it  has  no  fixed  history.  No  doubt  it  is 
more  broken,  less  interesting  and  les9  important  than 
the  middle  and  eastern  divisions.  The  explorations 
now  being  made  through  this  almost  unknown  land 
will  add  largely  to  our  knowledge  of  what  it  con- 
tains and  how  it  is  made  up.  This,  by  far  the 
largest  and  most  important  industrial  interest,  has 
been  referred  to  incidentally,  only  while  rambling 
over  the  country,  preferring  to  give  you  in  one  ar- 
ticle, in  a condensed  form,  my  impressions  and 
knowledge  obtained  while  here. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Colorado’s  mining  resources. 

As  a mining  country  Colorado  dates  from  1858. 
In  the  summer  of  that  year  a few  prospecters  from 
Kansas  and  Georgia  explored  the  country  up  the 
Arkansas  river.  When  more  than  two  hundred 
miles  from  the  mountains  they  discovered  in  small 
quantities  loose  gold  on  some  of  the  bars  of  the 
stream,  increasing  as  they  followed  up  the  river. 
They  explored  the  country  around  Pike’s  Peak,  and 
found  in  some  places  gold  in  paying  quantities; 
going  northward,  along  the  base  of  the  mountains, 
finding  the  precious  metal  in  different  places,  as  far 
as  the  mouth  of  Cherry  Creek,  where  Denver  now 
is.  Here  they  found  it  in  larger  quantity  and  of 
fine  quality.  These  parties,  returning  in  the  fall, 
gave  publicity  to  their  discoveries.  Mole  bills  mag- 
nified into  gold  mountains.  The  excitement  spread 
rapidly  over  the  country,  and  the  next  season  a large 
emigration  of  Pike’s  Peakers  moved  in  that  direction. 
Soon  other  rich  developments  were  made,  the  ex- 
citement increased,  and  emigration  moved  rapidly 
towards  the  new  Eldorado  of  the  West.  From  that 
time  to  the  present  mining  has  been  prosecuted  with 


102  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

v trying  success.  Like  rich  raining  countries  every 
where,  it  has  been  the  scene  of  extravagant  hopes, 
a id  also  the  scene  of  extravagant  disappointments. 
Many  have  realized  all  or  more  than  their  best 
hopes,  while  others,  and  far  the  larger  number,  have 
been  wonderfully  disappointed.  The  country,  how- 
ever, has  now  lived  through  her  most  trying  and 
precarious  early  existence.  When  wild  speculation 
ruled  supreme,  everybody  lived,  or  desired  to  do  so, 
on  their  wits,  instead  of  honest  labor,  to  make  their 
“ pile,”  no  matter  how  ruled  the  day. 

“ Wherever  God  erects  a house  of  prayer 
The  devil  always  holds  a chapel  there, 

And  ’twill  be  found  upon  examination, 

The  latter  has  the  largest  congregation.” 

The  people  here  are  very  much  mixed.  All  the 
States,  and  every  important  place  in  them  are  rep- 
resented, and  all  are  engaged  in  the  same  absorbing 
subject  of  conversation.  The  seat  of  empire,  in 
traveling  to  this  country,  changed  its  base  from 
soul  to  money-getting.  Gold  before  breakfast,  at 
breakfast  and  after  breakfast,  together  with  a good 
show  of  blossom  rock  all  day  and  specimens  in  the 
evening.  I don’t  care  if  I do  ; I will  take  mine 
clear  ; I will  have  sugar  in  mine.  Mountain  mining 
life,  soon  rubs  off  the  veneering  of  good  home  influ 
ences,  and  we  see  of  what  material  men  are  made. 


COLORADO  S MINING  RESOURCES.  ll)3 

There  is  a savage  fascination  in  R<»cky  Mountain 
life,  in  its  isolation,  lawlessness  and  danger. 

The  law  of  self-preservation  is  strong  in  the  moun- 
tains. “ Keep  up  your  heart  to-day,  for  to-morrow 
you  may  die,”  is  the  motto  of  a true  mountain  man. 
Sundays  are  as  good  as  other  days — no  better. 
“First  that  which  is  natural,  then  that  which  is 
spiritual.”  Miners  and  mountain  men  remember  the 
Sabbath  da5r  only  to  keep  it  jolly  ; few  even  would 
send  their  cards  to  church,  while  they  would  not 
go  themselves.  This  results  from  the  migratory 
and  unsettled  character  of  the  people  away  from 
the  restraining  and  humanizing  influence  of  home 
association.  But  she  has  lived  through  that  uncer- 
tain era  when  “ to  be  or  not  to  be,5’  was  an  unsolved 
problem.  The  loose  surface  washings  of  uncertain- 
ty have  run  off  with  uncertain  and  unskilled  labor, 
and  they  are  coming  down  to  the  “bed  rock”  of 
stability — more  permanent  prosperity. 

Central  City,  located  in  a narrow  defile  in  the 
mountains,  unshapely  and  straggling  as  if  built  to 
order  and  accidentally  dropped  between  the  close 
mountains  while  being  conveyed  to  its  destination, 
is  the  center  of  mining.  The  most  important  develop- 
ments have  been  made  here,  rich  quartz  leads  were 
earl}7  discovered,  together  with  some  rich  gulch 
mining,  which  gave  the  place  at  an  early  day  a large 


104  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

population  and  prosperity,  and  it  is  now  nearly  as 
large  as  Denver.  The  first  mills  to  crush  quartz  and 
work  the  ore  were  erected  and  put  in  operation  here, 
and  they  have  continued  work  the  most  of  the  time, 
giving  to  their  owners  a liberal  return  for  their 
money,  some  largely  so.  This  place,  Empire,  and 
Georgetown  in  South  Clear  Creek  Valley,  seem  to 
be  directly  on  the  mineral  quartz  belt  of  this  part 
of  the  mountains;  richer  and  better  pitying  leads 
have  been  found  on  this  range  than  any  other  place 
in  Colorado.  Nearly  all  the  stamp  mills  on  this 
range  are  working,  and  more  are  being  erected; 
after  waiting  for  more  efficient  processes  for  reduc- 
ing the  ores,  their  owners  have  put  them  in  opera- 
tion, somewhat  simplified,  using  more  economy  in 
their  working.  About  one  hundred  and  thirty  mills 
are  working,  producing  near  forty-five  thousand  dol- 
lars gold  per  week,  at  a cost  for  mining  and  milling 
of  about  two-thirds.  The  discovery  and  opening  of 
rich  silver  mines  near  Georgetown,  imparted  new 
confidence  to  miners  and  capitalists;  mills  are  being 
built,  and  the  place  promises  to  be  the  most  success- 
ful mining  locality  in  the  country;  the  head  center 
of  silver  mining.  The  ores  from  the  leading  mines 
average  from  one  hundred  to  eight  hundred  per  ton. 
Two  mills  are  now  working  at  Georgetown  on  silver 
ores;  one  works  the  second  class  ore,  that  which  will 


Colorado’s  mixing  resources.  105 

give  about  two  hundred  dollars  a ton.  by  stamping, 
and  then  amalgamating  with  quicksilver,  at  a cost 
of  from  sixty  to  seventy  dollars  per  ton.  The  other, 
smelting  works,  in  which  to  treat  the  higher  grades 
of  ore,  at  a cost  of  something  over  a hundred  dollars 
a ton.  This  establishment  buys  most  of  the  ore  it 
reduces  from  the  miners;  either  process  save  from 
seventy  to  ninety  per  cent,  of  the  assay  value  of  the 
ore.  These  processes,  however,  are  so  imperfect  that 
some  of  the  best  ore  is  now  sent  east  for  treatment. 
The  Equator  mine  is  one  of  the  prize  mines  here, 
and  sends  its  highest  grade  ores  all  the  way  to 
Newark,  N.  J , for  reduction.  The  superior  yield 
obtained  under  the  superior  and  economical  manage- 
ment more  than  pays  the  freight,  which  is  forty  dol- 
lars per  ton. 

Georgetown  now  has  a population  of  about  three 
thousand,  and  the  beat  hotel  in  the  country.  It  is 
one  of  the  places  that  every  tourist  should  visit; 
partly  for  its  silver  mines,  partly  because  the  road 
to  it  up  South  Clear  Creek  is  through  one  of  the 
most  interesting  sections  of  the  mountains,  and  partly 
that  it  is  the  starting  point  for  the  ascension  of 
Gray’s  Peaks.  The  traveler  can  go  up  to  the  top 
of  that  mountain  and  back  to  Georgetown  between 
breakfast  and  supper;  and  if  he  will  not  take  his 
tour  by  the  Snake  and  Blue  Rivers  to  the  Middle  of 


106  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

South  Park,  lit*  should  certainly  mak  thP  excursion 
from  Georgetown.  Central  City  and  its  neighbor 
hood  are  much  less  interesting  to  the  mere  pleasure 
traveler. 

That  town,  with  four  or  five  thousand  inhabitants 

\ 

is  crowded  into  a narrow  gulch  rather  than  a valley, 
torn  with  floods  and  dirty  with  the  debris  of  mills 
and  mines  that  spread  themselves  over  everything. 
Scattered  about  in  Boulder  district,  on  the  Snake, 
over  on  the  Upper  Arkansas,  up  among  the  gulches 
of  the  South  Park  hills,  are  a few  more  quartz  mills, 
some  in  operation  and  others  not;  but  the  principal 
business  of  quartz  mining  is  done  in  the  sections  I 
have  named,  in  Gelpin  and  Clear  Creek  counties. 
Mill  City,  Empire,  and  Idaho  are  villages  in  this 
section,  with  their  mines  and  mills,  doing  a little 
something,  struggling  to  prove  their  capacity,  but 
hardly  in  a single  case  making  money;  partly  be- 
cause of  the  poverty  of  the  ore,  but  chiefly  because 
it  is  refractory,  and  will  not  yield  up  its  possessions 
to  any  known  or  reasonably  cheap  process.  Time, 
patience,  and  cheaper  labor  will  bring  good  results 
out  of  many  of  these  investments,  but  others  will 
have  to  go  to  swell  the  great  number  of  failures  that 
stand  confessed  all  over  this,  as  all  over  every  other 
mining  country. 

The  other  form  of  mining,  known  as  gulch  mi*  i»*'* 


Colorado’s  mining  resources.  107 

or  dirt  washing,  is  increasing  again,  and  has  em- 
ployed full  three  hundred  men  this  season.  Fifty 
to  seventy  five  of  these  are  at  work  in  Clear  Creek 
and  Boulder  valleys;  but  the  great  body  of  them  are 
scattered  through  Park,  Lake,  and  Summit  counties, 
on  the  Snake  and  other  tributaries  of  the  Blue  River, 
on  the  Uj»per  Platte  in  South  Park,  and  on  the  Up- 
per Arkansas  and  its  side  valleys.  They  have 
averaged  twelve  dollars  a day  to  a man;  but  the 
season  for  this  kind  of  mining  is  less  than  half  the 
year,  in  some  places,  because  of  ice  and  snow;  in 
most  for  lack  of  water.  The  business  is  now  re- 
sumed in  a more  systematic,  intelligent,  and  econo- 
mical way;  labor  is  cheaper,  miners  are  satisfied  with 
more  moderate  returns,  and  there  is  hardly  any  limit 
to  these  valleys  and  banks  under  the  hills  and  along 
the  rivers,  whose  sides  and  gravel  hold  specks  of 
gold  in  sufficient  quantity  to  pay  for  washing  over; 
but  I pray  it  may  never  be  done  while  I live  to  come 
to  these  mountains  and  parks,  for  gold  washing  leaves 
a terrible  waste  behind. 

Iu  the  granite  district  of  the  Upper  Arkansas, 
quartz  gold  is  found  in  simple  combination,  “ free” 
as  in  California,  which  can  be  mined  and  reduced  for 
eight  to  ten  dollars  a ton,  while  it  yields  from  fifty 
to  one  hundred  dollars;  but  these  are  ores  from  near 
the  surface,  and  it  is  yet  a problem  whether  they 


fOS  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

will  not  change  on  going  down  in  the  veins,  as  in 
other  Colorado  mines,  and  become  refractory  and 
impossible  of  working  at  a profit,  by  any  known  pro- 
cess. There  is  apparently  no  limit,  in  fact,  to  the 
growth  of  the  mineral  wealth  of  Colorado,  for  the 
business  is  now  taken  hold  of  in  the  right  way,  pur- 
sued for  the  most  part  on  strictly  business  principles, 
and  every  year  must  show  improvements  in  the 
ways  and  means  of  mining  and  treating  the  ores. 
The  mountains  are  just  full  of  ores,  holding  fifteen 
to  fifty  dollars  worth  of  the  metals  per  ton,  and  the 
only  question  as  to  the  amount  to  be  got  out,  is  one 
of  labor  and  cost,  as  compared  with  the  profits  of 
other  pursuits.  Colorado  has  not  been  as  great  a 
placer  mining  country  as  California.  Here  quartz 
mills  must  do  the  work;  here  quartz  mines  are  more 
extensive  and  richer  than  those  of  California,  less 
free  gold.  The  great  mountain  deposits  are  almost 
unattached;  whereas,  in  California  free  gold  is  found 
very  extensively.  Doubtless,  all  the  detached  gold 
tound  is  derived  from  the  disintegration  of  quartz 
leads.  The  mines  of  Colorado  are  very  extensive 
and  rich.  What  is  needed  most  is  some  cheaper 
process  by  which  to  save  the  gold,  and  cheaper 
labor;  together  with  properly  organized  companies, 
honestly  and  judiciously  managed,  will  recei  ve  ample 
return  for  the  capital  invested. 


COLORADO  S MINING  RESOURCES. 


109 


Hiring  the  several  years. >i  (J  loivido’s  mining  life, 
she  has  taken  from  her  mines  and  shipped  east,  an- 
nually, not  less  than  two  millions  of  gold  in  any  one 
year,  and  from  that  up  to  eight  and  ten  millions  in 
some  years.  With  such  results,  under  such  circum- 
stances, who  will  presume  to  estimate  the  future 
wealth  that  is  to  flow  from  this  country. 

The  fact  that  quartz-crushing  machinery  processes 
are  inadequate  for  the  reduction  of  the  rich  ores 
which  are  here  deposited,  and  that  capital  is  re- 
quired to  go  down  in  the  mines  and  bring  up  the 
hidden  treasures  of  the  eternal  hills,  is  now  thoroughly 
established.  The  time  is  now  at  hand,  since  the 
completion  of  the  railway,  when  these  hills  and 
mountain  valleys  will  amply  reward  labor  and  capital, 
by  yielding  the  cheerful  gift  of  valuable  shining 
bars. 

These  mountains  were  found  to  be  too  valuable 
to  be  longer  left  for  the  exclusive  occupation  of  the 
red  man.  He  must  give  place  to  a more  useful  life — 
to  working  intelligent  labor.  The  fullness  of  time 
had  come  with  them.  The  desirable,  useful  treasures 
of  this  region  were  not  to  be  forever  useless,  their 
mysterious  deposits  forever  unlocked.  But  Greece 
must  destroy  Troy,  and  Rome  Carthage,  and  the 
powerful  nations  of  the  north,  Rome,  and  they  too 
must  perish,  or  be  absorbed  in  their  turn;  if  they 


• 

) BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

suffer  themselves  to  be  left  behind  on  toe  upward 
and  onward  march  of  a higher  and  more  noble  civil- 
ization which  was  soon  to  dawn  upon  this  world. 

CHAPTER  XVI. 


AGRICULTURAL  RESOURCES  OF  COLORADO. 

On  my  first  visit  to  this  country  in  18G5,  after  ex- 
tensive traveling  over  it,  I came  to  the  conclusion 
that  this  country  was  not  by  nature  agricultural,  and 
could  not  be  made  so,  by  the  well  applied  labor  of 
the  husbandman.  Then  Denver  stood  naked  on 
the  plain,  not  even  a lonely  tree  to  shade  it  from  the 
sun,  neither  a home  garden,  and  the  whole  surround- 
ing country  one  great  barren  waste,  except  for  pas- 
turage. But  the  almost  wonderful  change  that  had 
been  made  between  my  first  and  second  visits,  only 
a few  short  years,  compelled  me  to  quite  change  my 
first  impressions.  Extensive  water  ditches  had  been 
made  from  the  mountains  to  the  city,  affording  the 
best  of  water  for  the  use  of  the  place,  and  also  for 
irrigating  a large  section  of  land  between  the  city 
and  the  mountains,  before  almost  worthless;  but  now 
there  are  large  fields  of  grain  ripening  to  the  harvest, 
together  with  all  the  varieties  of  vegetables,  defying 
in  their  large  growth  the  before  frowns  of  unre- 
claimed nature.  Now  shade  trees  (so  necessary  to 
comfort  here,)  are  growing  in  their  strength  and 
beauty,  and  gardens  and  dooryards  made  green  with 


112  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

grass,  and  gardens  filled  with  useful  and  necessary 
vegetables.  As  agriculture  is  the  under  stratum 
upon  which  all  other  interests  rest — the  “ philoso- 
pher’s stone,”  to  which  all  must  come  for  their  very 
existence — I viewed  this  land’s  resurrection  with  un- 
usual interest  and  pleasure. 

Colorado  is  so  located  as  to  form  a substantial  cen- 
ter in  the  grand  constitutional  formation  of  States  ; 
she  contains  to  a large  extent  the  stiffening  of  the 
continent.  Located  as  she  is  in  the  center  of  the 
vast  region,  bounded  by  the  Mississippi  Valley  on 
the  east,  the  Pacific  Ocean  on  the  west,  British 
| America  on  the  north,  and  Mexico  on  the  south, 
the  continental  mountain  ranges  stand  up  here  in 
their  majestic  proportions ; spreading  themselves 
round  with  a conscious  greatness  and  a wantonness 
of  power.  Colorado’s  gold,  silver,  lead,  zinc,  iron 
and  copper,  are  bid  away  under  theii  huge  shadows. 
They  send  forth  fountains  of  the  purest  water,  that 
forces  itself  in  many  directions  through  the  interior 
of  the  continent,  capable  of  supplying  a wealth  of 
agriculture  in  the  valley  and  on  the  plain  hardly  to 
be  anticipated. 

On  the  bottom  lands,  along  the  streams,  grain  and 
vegetables  may  be  successfully  grown  without  irri* 
gation,  of  which  the  streams  offer  good  facilities  for 
successful,  remunerative  farming,  while  the  higher 


AGRICULTURAL  RESOURCES  OF  COLORADO.  113 

Atnds  must  be  supplied  with  water  during  th<  ir 
summer  growth,  to  insure  a crop.  Occasionally  a 
good  crop  of  grain,  wheat,  barley  and  oats  can  be 
harvested  along  the  foot  hills  without  irrigation;  th  s 
only  when  the  season  is  termed  wet,  and  is  uncer- 
tain. The  bottom  lauds  are  a rich  alluvial  deposit, 
brought  down  from  the  mountains,  and  when  properly 
cultivated  will  give  an  astonishing  vegetable  growth 
of  the  grains,  except  corn  (the  hot  nights  that  corn 
loves  are  not  felt  here,)  and  succulent  plants,  in 
quantity  and  quality  somewhat  unusual  for  large 
growth  and  excellent  quality. 

The  higher  lands  or  plains  are  composed  of  a 
coarse  sandy  loam,  rich  in  phosphates,  washed  down 
from  the  mountains,  and  are  but  little  used  as  yet, 
except  for  pasture. 

The  agriculture  along  the  base  of  the  mountains 
north,  between  the  Pacific  Railroad  at  Cheyenne  arid 
Denver,  is  the  development  almost  wholly  of  about 
two  years,  and  is  now  nearly  one  half  that  of  the 
whole  State.  South,  in  the  Arkansas  and  Rio  Grande 
valley,  the  farming  and  the  population  are  older, 
going  back  to  before  the  gold  discoveries.  This  is 
the  Mexican  section,  and  was  formerly  a part  of  New 
Mexico.  Its  agriculture  is  quite  extensive,  but  con 
ducted  indifferently  and  on  a rough  scale,  and  it  is 
only  the  remarkable  fertility  of  the  soil  that  permits 


BEYOND  THE  WEST, 


114 

it  to  be  profitable,  for  the  people  are  indolent,  igno- 
rant and  degraded  Mexicans.  The  simple  and  eco- 
nomical habits  of  these  people,  together  with  the 
productiveness  of  the  soil,  make  them  quite  rich. 
Some  of  the  large  farmers  are  wealthy.  Corn  grows 
here,  as  the  nights  are  warmer.  I was  told  there 
had  been  raised  here  over  300  bushels  to  the  acre. 
Colorado  offers  good  inducements  to  the  emigrant 
farmer.  The  Cache-a-la  Paudre  is  the  most  northern 
valley  of  Colorado,  and  finds  a market  at  Cheyenne; 
it  has  200,000  acres  of  tillable  lands,  of  which  but 
comparatively  little  is  yet  in  use;  and  its  lands  cau 
be  made  very  productive;  is  near  a good  market; 
holds  out  large  inducements  for  farming  enterprise; 
well  applied  labor  is  most  sure  to  be  rewarded  here, 
perhaps  not  more  so  than  in  many  other  places. 

As  a grazing,  stock-raising  country,  Colorado  pre- 
sents unlimited  advantages.  Grasses  are  abundant 
on  the  mountain  sides,  in  the  valleys,  all  along  and 
over  the  low  ranges  as  they  shade  off  down  to  the 
plains;  the  animals  can  roam  at  will,  and  a single 
man  can  tend  a large  herd.  Nature  does  the  haying, 
cures  the  grass  standing  in  July  and  August,  and 
animals  not  only  live  but  fatten  upon  the  dried 
grass  in  the  low  valleys  during  the  winter  months. 
Most  of  the  plains  are  not  properly  a worthless  des- 
ert, but  are  nature’®  great  continental  pasture  ground. 


AGRICULTURAL  RESOURCES  OF  COLORADO.  115 

National  and  individual  wealth  will  yet  be  found 
iu  the  grazing  capabilities  of  these  plains,  spread 
out  as  they  are,  from  five  to  six  hundred  miles  across, 
and  about  fifteen  hundred  miles  in  length,  from 
Montana  to  Mexico.  The  time  is  now  not  far  distant 
when  the  shepherd  will  be  tending  his  flocks  on  the 
plains,  and  herds  of  cattle  will  take  the  place  of 
nature’s  men,  and  the  herds  of  buffalo  which  are 
their  support.  They  will  have  no  further  occasion 
to  extend  their  arms,  in  praise  and  gratitude,  to  the 
Great  Spirit  in  the  sun,  for  the  freedom  of  their  ex 
istance  on  this  big  clearing . The  Indians  are  now 
the  only  hindrance  to  the  easy  and  profitable  farm- 
ing business  here.  When  the  country  can  be  made 
safe,  as  against  their  depredations,  the  energetic 
capitalist  will  find  here  a large  field  for  his  cattle 
and  sheep,  not  literally  upon  a “ thousand  hills.”  but 
scattered  over  the  extended  and  extensive  plains; 
not  only  a source  of  wealth  to  him,  but  also  to 
Colorado  and  the  country  at  large.  Though  the  red 
man  has  rights,  which  the  white  man’s  government 
is  bound  to  respect,  yet  to  allow  him  longer  to  hold 
possession  of  this  otherwise  profitable  region  vyould 
be  a great  sacrifice  even  for  a Christian  to  make. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

THE  CLIMATE  OF  COLORADO. 

Life  is  fresher  to  all  after  being  lifted  up  here 
from  five  thousand  to  twelve  thousand  feet  above 
sea  level.  I would  say  to  Americans,  come  here 
and  make  a more  familiar  acquaintance  with  America, 
among  the  central  ranges  of  the  continental  moun- 
tains, the  mountains  in  perfection  and  the  mountains 
in  ruin;  in  notorious  great  liberal  parks  with  their 
wonderful  and  varied,  bold,  attractive  beauty;  in  the 
wedded  majestic  rolling  hills  with  majestic  plain, 
under  pure  and  unclothed  skies,  and  in  this  invigo- 
rating atmosphere  lies  the  pleasure  ground  and  health 
giving  home  of  the  nation.  The  imposing  influence 
on  mind  and  body  has  no  equal  elsewhere.  An 
atmosphere  so  pure  that  the  eye  seems  to  take  in 
all  space,  and  so  dry  and  exhilarating  that  life  dances 
at  every  pore.  You  go  about  as  on  easy  wings, 
light-hearted,  having  partaken  freely  at  the  foun- 
tain. of  pure  health,  spread  over  these  hills  and 
plains  by  a liberal  hand.  Fresh  meat  cut  in  strips 
in  summer,  and  whole  quarters  in  winter,  and  hung 
up,  will  cure  without  salting,  so  that  it  may  be  taken 
to  any  part  of  the  globe  without  injury.  I saw  some 

\ • 


THE  CLIMATE  OF  COLORADO.  117 

persons,  supposed  to  be  hopelessly  consumptive,  able 
only  to  travel  in  wagons,  lying  upon  feather  beds* 
who,  after  crossing  the  plains  and  living  in  the  moun- 
tains a while,  recovered,  so  that  they  enjoyed  a com- 
fortable degree  of  health  for  years  after.  High 
regions  and  invigorating  air,  away  from  salt  water, 
seems  to  be  precisely  what  is  needed. 

The  climate  varies  with  the  altitude,  and  is  salu- 
brious and  invigorating  at  any  hight;  if  it  were  not 
so,  the  gold  hunter  would  have  been  more  sadly 
disappointed,  considering  the  labor  and  exposure  to 
which  he  was  subjected.  The  settler  here  seldom 
suffers  in  acclimation,  he  will  generally  become  . 
rejuvenated — endowed  with  a new  stock  of  constitu- 
tional vigor.  Lung  diseases,  which  in  low  country 
climates  are  so  common  and  often  so  fatal,  are  almost 
surely  cured  in  this  high  and  arid  atmosphere.  I 
was  told  that  in  some  sections,  it  was  so  healthy 
that  a man  had  to  be  killed  to  start  a burying-ground. 
These  mountain  ranges  send  forth  great  fountains  of 
health  in  exhilarating  air,  in  nature’s  great  fountains 
of  wonderful  beauty.  They  may  indeed  hold  out 
inducements  for  all  to  come  to  them  for  wealth,  for 
invigorating  health,  for  relief  and  restoration.  They 
may  with  propriety  be  called  the  Mother  Mountains. 

The  climate  of  that  portion  lying  east  of  the  moun- 
tains is  delightful  and  healthy.  The  frosts  come 


* 


fl  1 8 BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

early  in  the  autumn  and  continue  far  into  spring, 
but  they  are  not  severe.  On  the  plains  the  snows 
are  never  sufficient  to  prevent  cattle  from  thriving 
and  fattening  on  the  nutritious  grass,  dried  up  and 
cured,  standing  for  fall  and  winter  use. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

NEW  MEXICO  GENERALLY. 

This  territory,  containing  about  122,000  square 
miles,  three  times  larger  than  New  England,  was  a 
part  of  Old  Mexico  previous  to  1846;  hence  its  name. 

At  the  close  of  the  Mexican  war,  it  came  legally7, 
into  the  possession  of  our  government.  In  1848,  at 
the  settlement  of  the  war,  the  Mexican  title  to  the 
land  was  extinguished,  and  it  came  fully  into  the 
possession  of  the  United  States.  Since  then  settle- 
ments have  been  quite  large  as  to  agriculture,  stock- 
raising  and  mining.  These  interests  are  now  grow- 
ing large,  but  being  so  far  inland,  away  from  all  the 
markets  with  the  outer  world,  are  restricted  wholly  to 
home  demand,  as  it  would  not  pay  them  to  team  their  * 
surplus  eight  hundred  to  a thousand  miles  away  tc 
a market;  but  when  the  Southern  Pacific  Railway 
shall  be  completed  across  this  country,  opening  out 
to  the  farming  interest  a ready  and  profitable 
market,  then  it  will  present  unusual  advantages  for 
settlement. 

The  great  Overland  Stage  Route,  established  by 
John  Butterfield  and  others,  across  the  continent, 
ran  through  this  entire  territory  and  fixed  a line  of 


120  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

civilization,  which  has  branched  off  to  some  extent 
through  the  country,  and  kept  in  various  ways  to- 
wards settlement.  The  seed  thus  planted  is  growing 
up  into  the  harvest. 

The  general  surface  of  the  country  is  uneven, 
badly  b oken.  The  stupendous  Rocky  Mountain 
rangq^  tower  up  in  all  their  continental  magnificence, 
cross  the  territory  from  north  to  south,  together 
with  intersecting  cross  ranges,  making  some  very 
interesting  parks;  the  most  noted  of  which  is  the 
San  Louis,  in  the  north  part,  rich  in  varied  beauty 
and  resources,  and  many  remarkable  features  not 
characteristic  of  the  other  great  parks  further  north. 
The  mountain  ranges  make  also  many  large  and  fer- 
tile valleys.  The  most  important  of  these  is  the 
Rio  Grande,  which  is  the  principal  stream  of  the  ter- 
ritory, and  is  navigable  in  places  for  a distance  of 
1,800  miles;  starting  in  a deep  canyon,  plowed  out 
of  the  granite  rock  on  the  side  of  “ Mount  Lincoln,” 
in  the  eternal  snows  of  the  central  range,  and  cross- 
ing the  whole  territory  of  New  Mexico,  from  north 
to  south. 

You  will  recollect  that  it  was  along  this  river 
that  the  Mexican  war  commenced  with  the  United 
States,  by  conflicts  between  the  Mexican  army,  under 
the  command  of  General  Ampudia  and  the  army 
under  General  Taylor. 


new  mp:xico  generally.  121 

This  valley  is  from  one  to  fifteen  miles  wide,  is 
capable  of  supporting  a population  large  enough  for 
a small  State.  The  bottom  lands  are  remarkably 
productive;  also  the  low  sloping  foot-hills,  with  a 
light  gravelly  soil,  when  irrigated  and  properly  till- 
ed, give  a growth  of  almost  any  crop  put  upon  them, 
that  will  fill  a mountain  valley  home  with  enough 
and  to  spare,  with  comparatively  little  labor,  for  both 
the  soil  and  climate  unite  in  a remarkable  degree  to 
assist  those  who  turn  its  rich  furrows  to  the  sun, 
and  put  in  the  seed.  As  the  season  for  vegetation 
is  very  long,  often  two  crops  are  grown  in  one  year 
from  the  same  land.  Vegetation  through  all  this 
country  makes  a much  more  rapid  growth  than  it 
does  in  the  more  northern  States.  As  there  is  but  • 
little  rain  here  during  the  year,  scarcely  no  winter 
in  the  low  valleys,  and  the  almost  constant  sunshine, 
with  a proper  system  of  judicious  irrigation,  these 
valleys  will  produce,  and  can  be  depended  upon  like 
a hot-bed. 

But  eleven  years  ago,  this  large  territory  was  ac- 
quired by  the  United  States.  At  that  time  the 
Ranchers  cultivated  the  land  on  original  principles, 
such  as,  I suppose,  was  used  when  “Adam  delved 
with  a hoe,  remarkable  only  for  its  antedeluvian  ex- 
istence ; a wooden  plow  made  of  a forked  tree,  such 
as  was  used  on  the  plains  of  Syria,  and  in  Persia, 


122  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

such  as  may  now  be  seen  in  the  Agricultural  Hall  at 
Albany,  together  with  a wooden  tooth  drag,  com- 
pleted the  implements  of  the  most  wealthy  farmers. 
His  farming  tools  showed  no  improvement  upon  those 
of  his  Aztec  forefathers.  Instead  of  our  threshing 
machines,  some  of  them  were  treading  out  their 
wheat  with  horses  and  oxen,  as  did  the  Israelites 
three  thousand  years  ago;  others  were  pounding  it 
out  with  long  clumsy  poles  upon  the  ground. 

At  that  time  the  country  was  occupied  wholly  by 
the  low  greaser  Mexicans,  who  were  jammed  so  full  of 
the  law  of  gravitation  they  could  never  get  above 
the  ground,  a composition  of  negro  and  Mexican, 
and  a few  quarter  civilized  Indians  more,  that  were 
•as  wild  and  ugly  as  some  of  their  hunting  grounds. 

New  Mexican  settlements  have  a remarkably  old 
look.  The  adobe  buildings,  with  small  narrow  win- 
dows, low  doors  and  Oat  roofs,  suggest 
“ The  events 

Of  old  and  wonderous  times, 

Which  dim  tradition  interruptedly  teaches.” 

About  a hundred  miles  south-east  of  Santa  Fe  are 
saline  lakes,  or  salt  marshes,  supplying  the  whole 
territory  with  salt;  near  them  are  found  the  ruins 
of  a city,  the  remains  of  an  aqueduct  several  miles 
long,  walls  of  churches,  Castilian  coats  of  arms,  pro- 
bably a silver  mining  town  destroyed  two  centuries 


NEW  MEXICO  GENERALLY.  123 

ago,  when  the  natives  drove  out  or  killed  all  the  in- 
habitants. 

In  the  south-west  corner,  on  the  San  Juan  River, 
Colorado  (then  in  Mexico)  is  found  some  remarkable 
ruins.  One  of  these  deserted  human  bee-hives  was 
five  hundred  feet  long,  enclosed  with  a wall  a foot 
thick,  and  thirty  feet  high,  of  solid  stone,  and  six 
stories  high. 

Nearly  three  hundred  years  ago,  Spanish  Mission- 
aries found  in  New  Mexico  Indians  who  raised 
cotton,  manufactured  cloth,  and  lived  in  towns  with 
streets,  having  dwellings  like  the  present  Pueblos 
Indians.  The  founders  of  these  towns  were  of  that 
remarkable  order,  whose  unflagging  energy  and  per- 
fect organization  achieved  such  conquests  over  all 
that  country.  Remains  of  old  Jesuit  Missions  are 
scattered  through  California,  Arizona,  New  Mexico, 
Old  Mexico,  and  Cential  America. 

This  vast  region  of  country  was  converted  to  the  old 
Roman  faith,  by  life-long  labor  of  this  society,  and  not 
by  the  over-enthusiasm  of  Cortez  and  his  robbers, 
who  hurled  the  native  idols  to  the  ground,  to  replace 
them  with  the  cross.  The  Santa  Fe  Cathedral  is  a 
high  adobe  edifice  with  effigies  of  the  Saviour  and 
the  Virgin,  with  life-size  paintings  of  these  scenes 
hanging  on  the  walls. 

In  Taos  there  is  a building  of  Indian  origin,  which 


124  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

tradition  says  was  built  three  centuries  ago.  The 
streets,  like  those  of  Santa  Fe  and  other  places, 
are  crooked  and  narrow,  and  like  most  towns  of 
th'e  kind,  are  usually  filled  with  “ Mexican’’  car- 
riages. The  donkey,  about  as  large  as  a yearling 
colt,  serves  for  mule,  horse,  ox,  cart  and  barouche. 
He  staggers  like  a runaway  hay  stack,  under  im- 
mense loads  of  grass  and  corn-stalks.  He  brings 
from  the  mountains  immense  piles  of  wood  for  fuel. 
He  transports  baggage  and  provisions  of  all  kinds, 
generally  over  the  mountains  and  plains  of  the  whole 
country;  indeed  he  is  the  commercial  thoroughfare 
every  where.  One  man  will  pack  a number  of  them, 
called  a packing  train,  and  transport,  often  heavy 
articles,  hundreds  of  miles;  but  very  few  wheeled 
vehicles  in  the  country,  those  few  are  owned  by' 
Americans.  The  Mexican  has,  from  the  first,  carted 
all  his  crops  from  the  field  to  his  cabin  on  the  backs 
of  these  little  animals;  few  of  them  in  their  own 
country  ever  had  a harness  upon  them.  These  small 
animals  will  take  a load  nearly  as  heavy  as  themselves 
over  long  mountain  ranges,  following  each  other,  in 
Indian  file,  through  the  narrow  trail,  over  most  dif- 
ficult and  dangerous  places,  apparently  with  little 
fatigue.  Their  endurance  is  quite  remarkable.  The 
interior  country  is  so  destitute  of  wagon  roads,  that 
there  is  no  other  way  by  whicn  trade  can  be  carried 
on  between  the  settlements. 


NEW  MEXICO  GENERALLY.  125 

Here,  at  Taos,  the  celebrated  mountaineer  and 
guide  settled  to  crown  a youth  of  labor,  with  an  age 
ol  ease,  at  the  age  of  fifty.  His  wife,  an  intelligent 
Spanish  woman,  with  a family  about  him,  he  retired 
like  many  other  great  men,  on  his  farm,  pleasantly 
located  on  Taos  River,  a crystal  mountain  stream, 
where  his  numerous  horses,  mules  and  cattle  would 
serve  him  thankfully  for  giving  them  so  good  a home. 
He  is  a Kentuckian  by  birth,  of  most  excellent  na- 
tural abilities,  but  of  very  limited  education;  read- 
ing with  difficulty,  and  writing  very  little  beyond 
his  own  name.  However,  he  speaks  several  lan- 
guages fluently;  English,  French,  Spanish  and  several 
Indian  tongues,  acquired  orally.  His  long  life  of 
many  years,  away  from  civilization,  as  hunter,  trapper, 
and  guide,  had  not  deprived  him  of  the  natural  in- 
stincts of  a gentleman;  honorable  and  simple-hearted, 
beloved  by  Americans,  Mexicans  and  Indians.  When 
he  guided  General  Fremont,  on  his  long  and  peril- 
ous expeditions,  he  held  a lieutenant’s  commission 
in  our  army.  He  was  made  a Brigadier  General  of 
Volunteers  during  the  rebellion,  and  after  the  war 
took  command  of  a fort  in  New  Mexico.  But  our 
people  having  gone  there  of  late  for  the  purpose  of 
settlement,  to  become  agriculturists,  miners  and 
traders,  have  introduced  among  these  benighted 
people  the  implements  of  a better  civilization,  a 
higher  standard  of  farm  life. 


120  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

The  middle  and  southern  portion  of  the  territory 
contain  large  quantities  of  exceedingly  rich  land, 
adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  cotton,  sugar,  tobacco, 
corn,  sweet  potatoes,  peaches,  fruit  and  vegetables, 
The  soil  and  climate  is  such  as  to  grow  in  perfection 
all  that  can  be  grown  in  the  middle  States;  together 
with  many  of  the  tropical  fruits.  The  north  and  the 
southseemto  meet  each  other  here  in  friendly  em- 
brace, neither  of  them  appear  to  be  strayed  or  stolen 
from  their  native  homes. 

As  soon  as  the  country  can  be  made  safe  to  the 
settler  and  his  property,  as  against  the  wandering 
tribes  of  Indians,  few  places  offer  more  inducements 
for  the  emigrant  than  this,  as  to  fertility  of  the  soil 

and  climate.  Here  he  may  select  almost  any  of  the 

/ 

different  branches  of  farming,  and  if  he  does  his  part 
(not  very  well)  he  is  sure  to  succeed  beyond  his 
first  expectations.  The  red  men  here,  who  have  a 
light  sprinkling  of  higher  life,  live  in  communities, 
and  cultivate  the  soil,  raise  remarkably  good  crops 
for  their  very  limited  knowledge,  and  equally  limited 
means  to  do  it  with,  or  rather  their  squaws  do  it  for 
them. 

These  original  inhabitants  have  been  very  hostile 
to  settlers  and  miners,  making  life  and  property  urn 
safe;  driving  from  the  country  both  Americans  and 
Mexicans.  But  since  it  changed  owners,  military 


NEW  MEXICO  GENERALLY.  12T 

posts  have  been  established  indifferents  parts  of  the 
territory, restraining  the  red  men, and  giving  better 
security  to  those  who  are  there,  and  teaching  the 
savages  by  some  hard  experiences,  that  they  must 
conform  to  the  new  dispensation,  or  go  to  the  hunt- 
ing grounds  of  their  mysterious  medicine.  The  prin- 
^ * ^al  damage  they  now  do,  is  to  run  off  stock,  which 
can  hardly  be  guarded  sufficiently  to  prevent  such 
thefts;  however,  there  is  but  very  little  of  it  now, 
as  compared  with  a few  years  ago,  and  soon,  no  doubt 
life  and  property  will  be  safe  in  any  part  of  the 
territory. 

The  mining  interests  of  New  Mexico  can  hardly 
be  overestimated.  Various  parts  of  the  country 
have  been  prospected  for  the  precious  metals  with 
good  results.  Rich  placer  diggings  have  been  found 
in  many  places  along  the  rivers  and  mountain 
streams,  as  yet  imperfectly  worked.  ' 

Near  the  Placer  Mountains  the  whole  soil  seems 
to  be  mixed  with  the  precious  metal,  and  it  is  be- 
lieved by  some,  who  have  carefully  examined*  this 
district,  that  if  science  and  capital  was  brought  to 
its  development,  it  would  be  one  of  the  richest  gold 
producing  regions  in  the  world. 

Gold  in  quartz  veins  has  been  found  in  some  of 
all  the  mountain  ranges  of  the  territory,  in  quantity 
and  richness  that  will  give  largfc  returns  when  pro- 


128 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


perly  worked.  Some  of  the  mines  have  been  in- 
differently worked  at  times  for  over  two  hundred 
years  by  the  Spaniards  and  Mexicans.  The  Santa 
Rita  Mines  are  known  to  have  been  worked  centu- 
ries ago.  The  precious  metals,  gold;  silver,  copper, 
iron  and  zinc,  are  known  to  be  veiy  liberally  distri- 
buted in  large  quantities  over  the  country.  Wher- 
ever they  have  been  developed  to  any  extent  they 
have  given  evidence  of  richness  and  permanence, 
and  the  farther  they  have  been  sunken  upon  the 
more  profitable  they  have  been. 

In  the  mountains  surrounding  the  old  trading 
town  of  Santa  Fe,  where  the  miners  were  somewhat 
protected  from  the  Indians,  they  have  taken  out 
large  quantities  of  silver.  There  can  be  no  doubt 
but  that  New  Mexico  will  become  one  of  the  very 
best  mining  sections  of  this  country.  The  climate 
favors  work  remarkably.  The  whole  year  is  much 
more  favorable  to  these  interests  here  than  farther 
north. 

The  old  people  of  Mexican  towns  look  older  than 
in  any  other  country.  There  is  a local  proverb 
that  this  region  is  so  healthy  that  the  oldest  inhab- 
itants never  die;  but  lean,  attenuated  and  wrinkled, 
like  Egyptian  mummies,  dry  up  ultimately  and  are 
blown  away. 

The  climate  vanes  with  the  altitude,  and  is  very 


NEW  MEXICO  GENERALLY. 


129 

hea’thful  at  any  bight.  Santa  Fe,  the  capital  and 
business  metropolis,  is  situated  on  a plain,  or  rather 
in  a great  mountain  bowl  roof  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  and  has  a delightful  summer  climate,  and  is  the 
highest  town  in  the  United  States  of  any  importance, 
while  the  mountains  near,  whose  peaks  are  always 
covered  with  snow,  rise  to  a bight  of  1,200  feet. 
In  the  middle  and  southern  portions  of  the  territory 
the  whole  year  is  agreeable;  the  change  of  seasons 
are  not  any  more  than  is  agreeable  and  congenial  to 
health  and  comfort.  The  sky  is  generally  clear  and 
the  atmosphere  drv.  Pulmonary  complaints  are  not 
known.  The  diseases  are  few  ; none  but  those  oc- 
casionally contracted  by  lying  too  much  out  on  the 
open  ground  in  winter. 

Stock-raising  here,  as  in  Northern  Texas,  is  the 
most  profitable  source  of  income,  the  whole  country 
being  adapted  to  this  branch  of  husbandry.  Very 
large  flocks  of  sheep  are  raised,  and  also  large  num- 
bers of  mules,  to  suppl}7  the  demand  North  for  them. 
Large  portions  of  the  high  plains,  low  hills  and  val 
leys  are  covered  with  nutritious  grasses,  sufficient 
for  the  p .sturage  of  millions  of  animals  the  whole 
year,  as  they  require  no  more  care  in  winter  than  in 
summer. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

THE  BUFFALOES. 

i 

The  buffaloes  have  been  driven  from  the  more 
central  portions  of  the  country  north  down  here  on 
the  plains  and  in  the  valleys,  where  they  have  now 
congregated,  as  a last  resort,  more  largely  than  in 
any  other  part  of  the  country.  Here  they  are  at 
home;  Nature’s  munificence  supplies  all  their  wants. 
Here  life  to  them  is  a round  of  pleasure,  as  of  old, 
while  they  grow  large  and  fat  for  their  butchers. 
They  have  here  an  immense  country  lying  between 
the  Rio  Grande  and  Texas,  and  traversed  by  large 
mountains,  intersected  by  cross  ranges,  little  in- 
habited,  affording  them  better  protection  than  any 
other  place.  Here  they  had  their  early  buffalo- 
hood.  The  first  authentic  account  we  have  of  them 
is  from  this  part  of  the  country.  Distant  as  it  is 
from  the  sea,  the  adventurous  Spaniards  penetrated 
it  at  an  early  day. 

Coronado  speaks  of  having  traversed  the  country 
north  of  the  Gila,  occupied  by  the  Puebla  Indians, 
and  pushed  his  way  eastward  beyond  the  Rio 
Grande  to  the  country  of  the  buffalo,  and  he  is  the 
first  who  speaks  of  that  animal,  which  he  calls  “ a 


THE  BUFFALOES.  131 

new  kind  of  ox,”  wild  and  fierce,  with  which  they 
supplied  themselves  with  meat,  and  killed  four  score 
the  first  day.  Here  the  destructive  slaughter  began, 
which  has  been  followed  up,  age  after  age,  till  now 
they  are  congregated  in  a few  somewhat  out  of  the 
way  places  to  await  their  sure  destruction. 

Occasionally,  when  passing  over  a mountain  range, 
we  would  come  unexpectedly  upon  a herd  of  these 
noble  animals  feeding  in  the  valley,  generally  along 
a meandering  mountain  stream,  where  buffalo  life 
seemed  replete  with  happiness;  some  grazing,  some 
lying  down  and  sleeping,  others  having  their  buffalo 
plays,  and  still  others  rambling  among  the  low, 
grassy  fool-hills — altogether  forming  a landscape, 
when  once  seen,  never  to  be  forgotten.  Here,  alone 
in  their  glory,  free  from  danger,  (probably  in  their 
own  estimation,)  wime  a party  of  men  are  on  the 
ridge,  stripping  themselves  and  their  horses  of  all  un- 
necessary appendages  which  might  hinder  their  run- 
ning; hats  and  coats  are  taken  off,  ammunition  pouches 
laid  down,  prepared  cartridges  placed  in  a ready  pock- 
et, and  guns  loaded,  the  party  mount  their  restless 
steeds  and  they  start  for  the  onset.  The  horses, 
accustomed  to  the  business,  appear  to  enter  into 
the  enthusiasm  with  as  much  spirit  as  the  riders 
themselves,  champing  their  bits,  ears  erect,  eyes 
dancing  in  their  heads,  and  fixed  on  the  game  in  the 


132  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

valley.  When  all  are  ready,  the  party  move  carefully 
and  slowly  down  a long  ravine  to  within  a short  dis- 
tance of  the  unsuspecting  herd  before  being  dis- 
covered. This  brought  the  party  near  their  game, 
and  the  start  was  close.  All  seemed  to  fly  over  the 
extended  bottom  land  in  a cloud  of  dust,  which  was 
raised  by  their  many  hoofs.  The  party  dashed 
along  through  the  thundering,  concentrated  mass, 
as  they  swept  away  from  their  view.  I stretched  my 
eyes  in  the  direction  where  they  had  so  suddenly 
disappeared,  and  nothing  could  be  seen  but  the  cloud 
of  dust  they  had  left  behind  them.  The  party  did 
not  follow  the  herd  over  a mile  when  they  had 
killed  a half  dozen  fat  young  cows,  shot  through  the 
heart  at  full  speed.  This  was  all  they  could  pack 
to  the  miner’s  camp,  and  was  more  than  a supply  for 
the  time.  They  are  seldom  killed  now  faster  than 
the  meat  is  needed  for  present  use,  either  by  white 
men  or  Indians.  Their  scarcity  and  great  utility 
in  this  country  is  beginning  to  be  appreciated. 

“ But,  Monsieur  Labordett,  you  promised  to  tell 
me  about  the  buffalo  hunt  at  ‘ Missouri  Lake.’” 

“ That  isn’t  much  to  tell.  It  war  putty  much 
like  other  buffalo  hunts.  Thar  war  a lot  of  us  trap- 
pers happened  to  be  at  Xez  Perce  and  Flathead 
village  in  the  fall,  when  they  war  going  to  kill  win- 
ter meat,  and  as  thur  hunt  lay  in  the  direction  we 


THE  BUFFALOES.  133 

war  going,  we  joined  in.  The  oldNez  Perce  chief, 
Kow-e-so-te,  had  command  of  the  village,  and  we 
trappers  had  to  <b  y h m,  too.  We  started  off 
slow;  nobody  war  allowed  to  go  ahead  of  camp. 

“In  this  manner  we  caused  the  buffalo  to  move 
on  before  us,  but  not  to  be  alarmed.  We  war  eight 
or  ten  days  traveling  from  the  Beaverhead  to  Mis- 
souri Lake,  and  by  the  time  we  got  thar  the  whole 
plain  around  the  lake  war  covered  with  buffalo,  and 
it  war  a splendid  sight ! 

“ In  the  morning  the  old  chief  harangued  the  men 
of  his  village,  and  ordered  us  all  to  get  ready  for 
the  surround.  About  nine  o’clock  every  man  war 
mounted,  and  we  began  to  move. 

“ That  war  a sight  to  make  a man’s  blood  warm  ! 
A thousand  men,  all  trained  hunters,  on  horseback, 
carrying  their  guns,  and,  with  their  horses,  painted 
in  the  highest  of  Indian  fashion.  We  advanced 
until  within  about  half  a mile  of  the  herd  ; then 
the  chief  ordered  us  to  deploy  to  the  right  and  left 
until  the  wings  of  the  column  extended  a long  way, 
and  advanced  again. 

“ By  this  time  the  buffalo  war  all  moving,  and  we 
had  come  within  a hundred  yards  of  them.  Kow-e- 
so-te  then  gave  us  the  word  and  away  we  went  pell- 
mell.  Heaven,  what  a charge!  What  a rushing 
and  roaring ! men  shooting,  buffalo  bellowing  and 
trampling  until  the  earth  sho<-k  under  them. 


134  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

“It  war  the  work  of  an  hour  to  slay  two  thousand, 
or  perhaps  three  thousand  animals.  When  the 
work  war  over  we  took  a survey  of  the  field.  Here 
and  there  and  everywhere  layed  the  slain  buffalo. 
Occasionally  a horse  with  a broken  leg  war  seen,  or 
a man  with  a broken  arm,  or  maybe  he  had  faied 
worse  and  had  a broken  head. 

“ Now  came  out  the  women  of  the  village  to  help 
us  butcher  aud  pack  up  the  meat.  It  war  a big 
job,  but  we  were  not  long  about  it.  By  night  the 
camp  war  full  of  meat  and  everybody  merry. 
Bridgets  camp,  which  war  passing  that  way,  traded 
with  the  village  for  fifteen  hundred  buffalo  tongues, 
the  tongues  being  reckoned  a choice  part  of  the  an- 
imal. And  that  is  the  way  we  helped  the  Nez 
Perces  hunt  buffalo.’7 

“ But  when  you  were  hunting  for  your  own  sub- 
sistence in  camp  you  sometimes  went  out  in  small 
parties.77 

“ Oh  ! yes,  it  war  the  same  thing  on  a smaller 
scale.  One  time  Kit  Carson  and  mysell  and  a lit- 
tle Frenchman  named  Marteau,  went  to  run  buffalo 
on  Powder  River.  When  we  come  in  sight  of  the 
band  it  war  agreed  that  Kit  and  the  Frenchman 
should  do  the  running  and  I should  stay  with  the 
pack  mules.  The  weather  war  very  cold,  and  I did 
not  like  my  part  of  the  duty  much. 


THE  BUFFALOES.  135 

‘•The  Frenchman’s  horse  couldn’t  run,  so  I lent 
him  mine.  Kit  rode  his  own  ; not  a good  buffalo 
horse  either.  In  running,  my  horse  fell  with  the 
Frenchman  and  nearly  killed  him.  Kit,  who  couldn’t 
make  his  horse  catch,  jumped  off  and  caught 
mine  and  tried  it  again.  This  time  he  came  up 
with  the  band  and  killed  four  fat  cows. 

“ When  I came  up  with  the  pack  mules  I asked 
Kit  how  he  came  by  my  horse.  He  explained,  and 
wanted  to  know  if  I had  seen  anything  of  Marteau; 
said  my  horse  had  fallen  with  him,  and,  he  thought, 
killed  him.  * You  go  over  the  other  side  of  yon  hill 
and  see/  said  Kit. 

“ What’ll  I do  with  him  if  he  is  dead,”  said  I. 

“ Can’t  you  pack  him  to  camp.” 

“ Pack  h — 1,  said  I.  I should  rather  pack  a load 
of  meat.” 

“ Waal,”  said  Kit,  “ I’ll  butcher  if  you’ll  go  over 
and  see,  anyhow.” 

“So  I went  over  and  found  the  dead  man  leaning 
his  head  on  his  hand  and  groaning,  for  he  war  pret- 
ty bad  hurt.  I got  him  on  his  horse,  though,  after  a 
while,  and  took  him  back  where  Kit  war  at  work. 

“ We  soon  finished  the  butchering  job  and  star  ed 
back  to  camp  with  our  wounded  Frenchman  and  three 
loads  of  tat  meat.” 


136  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

“ You  were  not  very  compassionate  towards  each 
other  in  the  mountains. r 

“ That  war  not  our  business.  We  had  no  time  for 
such  things.  Besides,  live  men  war  what  we  wanted; 
dead  ones  war  ot  no  account.” 

It  would  often  seem  to  me  that  live  men  were  also 
of  little  account,  by  the  wanton  recklessness  with 
which  it  was  often  taken.  To  the  unsophisticated, 
the  savage  way  by  which  real  or  imaginary  inju- 
ries were  redressed  ofteu  by  these  veterans  of  the 
mountains,  would  freeze  up  any  warm,  sympathetic 
heart.  These  men  get  so  in  the  habit  of  killing  that 
it  seems  but  little  to  them  whether  a man  or  a buf- 
falo is  killed.  It  is  the  object  of  mountain  men  to 
keep  their  hearts  “ big, ” and  not  to  remember  the 
miserable  fate  of  some  of  their  comrades. 

While  meditating  one  day  upon  the  certain  fate 
that  awaits  the  buffaloes,  I strolled  unconsciously 
away  and  wrote  thus: 

“It  is  generally  supposed  and  familiarly  said  that 
a*m»n  falls  into  a reverie;  but  I seated  myself  in  a 
shade  a few  minutes  and  resolved  to  force  myself  into 
one,  and  for  this  purpose  I laid  open  a small  pocket 
map  of  North  America,  and  excluding  my  thoughts 
from  every  other  object  in  the  world,  I s<  on  suc- 
ceeded in  producing  the  desired  illusion.  This  lit- 
tle chart  over  which  I bent  was  seen  in  all  its  parts, 


BUFFALO  HUNT. 


✓ 


THE  BUFFALOES. 


137 

as  nothing  but  the  green  and  vivid  reality.  I was 
lifted  up  as  upon  an  imaginary  pair  of  wings,  which 
easily  raised  aud  held  me  floating  in  the  air,  from 
whence  I could  behold  beneath  me  the  Pacific  and 
Atlantic  Oceaus,  the  great  cities  of  the  East,  and 
the  mighty  rivers.  I could  see  the  blue  chain  of 
the  great  lakes  at  the  North,  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
and  beneath  them,  and  near  their  base,  the  vast  and 
almost  boundless  plains  of  grass,  which  were  speck- 
led with  the  grazing  bands  of  buffaloes.” 

“ The  world  turned  gently  round  and  I examined 
its  surface.  Continent  after  continent  passed  un- 
der my  eye,  and  yet,  amidst  them  all,  I saw  not  the 
vivid  green  that  is  spread  like  a carpet  over  the 
W estern  wilds  of  my  own  country.  I saw  not  else- 
where in  the  world  the  myriad  herds  of  buffaloes — 
my  eyes  scanned  in  vain,  for  they  were  not — and  when 
I turned  again  to  the  wilds  of  my  native  land,  I be- 
held them  all  in  motion  ! For  the  distance  of  several 
hundred  miles  from  north  to  south  they  were  wheeling 
about  in  vast  columns  and  herds.  Some  were  scattered 
and  ran  with  furious  wildness;  others  lay  dead;  others 
were  pawing  the  earth  for  a hiding  place;  some  were 
sinking  down  and  dying,  gushing  out  their  life  in 
deep-drawn  sighs;  and  others  were  contending  in 
furious  battle  for  the  life  they  possessed  and  the 
ground  they  stood  upon.  They  had  long  since  as 


138  BEYOND  TIIE  WEST. 

eembied  from  the  thickets  and  the  secret  haunts  ol 
the  deep  forest  into  the  treeless  and  boundless 
plains,  as  the  place  for  their  safety.  I could  see  in 
an  hundred  places,  amid  the  wheeling  bands,  and  on 
their  skirts  and  flanks,  the  leaping  wild  horse  dart- 
ing among  them.  I saw  not  the  arrows,  nor  heard 
the  twang  of  the  sinew-bows  that  sent  them,  but  I 
saw  their  victims  fall:  on  other  steeds  that  rushed 
along  their  sides,  I saw  the  glistening  lances  which 
seemed  to  lay  across  them ! Their  blades  were 
blazing  in  the  sun,  till  dipped  in  blood,  and  then  I 
lost  them.  In  other  parts  (and  there  were  many) 
the  vivid  flash  of  fire  arms  was  seen;  their  victims 
fell,  too,  and  over  their  dead  bodies  hung,  suspended 
in  air,  little  clouds  of  whitened  smoke,  from  under 
which  the  flying  horsemen  had  darted  forward  to 
mingle  again  with  and  deal  death  to  the  trampling 
throng.” 

“ So  strangely  were  men  mixed  (both  white  and 
red)  with  the  countless  herds  that  wheeled  and 
eddied  about,  that  all  below  seemed  one  vast  ex- 
tended field  of  battle.  Whole  armies,  in  some 
places,  seemed  to  blacken  the  earth’s  surface  ; in 
other  places  regiments,  battalions,  wings,  platoons, 
rank  and  file  and  “ Indian  file,”  all  were  in  motion, 
and  death  and  destruction  seemed  to  be  the  watch- 
word amongst  them.  In  their  turmoil  they  sent  up 


THE  BUFFALOES. 


13', I 

great  clouds  of  dust,  and  with  them  came  t lie  min- 
gled din  of  groans  and  trampling  hoofs,  that  seemed 
like  the  rumbling  of  a dreadful  cataract  or  the  roar- 
ing of  distant  thunder.  Alternate  pity  and  admira- 
tion harrowed  up  in  my  bosom  and  in  my  brain  many 
a hidden  thought,  and  amongst  them  a few  of  the 
beautiful  notes  that  were  once  sung  ai.d  exactly  in 
point.  Quadrupedante  putrum  sonitu  q unlit  ungula 
campum.  Even  such  was  the  din  of  these  quadru- 
peds of  these  vast  plains.  And  from  the  craggy 
cliffs  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  were  seen  descending 
into  the  valley  the  myriad  Tartars  who  had  not 
horses  to  ride,  but  before  their  well-drawn  bows  the 
fattest  of  the  herd  were  falling.  Hundreds  and 
thousands  were  strewn  upon  the  plains;  they  were 
flayed,  and  their  reddened  carcasses  left,  and  about 
them  bands  of  wolves  and  dogs  and  buzzards  were 
seen  devouring  them.  Contiguous,  and  in  sight, 
was  the  distant  and  feeble  smoke  of  wigwams  and 
villages,  wlieie  the  skins  were  dragged  and  dressed 
for  white  men’s  luxury!  where  they  were  all  sold 
lor  whisky,  and  the  poor  Indians  laid  drunk  and  were 
crying.  I cast  my  eyes  into  the  towns  and  cities  of 
the  East,  and  there  I beheld  buffalo  robes  hanging 
at  almost  every  door  for  traffic;  and  I saw  also  the 
curling  smoke  of  a thousand  stills,  and  I said,  Oh! 
insatiable  man,  is  thy  avarice  such  ? wouldst  thou 


140  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

tear  the  skin  from  the  back  of  the  last  animal  of  this 
noble  race,  and  rob  thy  fellow  man  of  his  meat,  and 
for  it  give  him  poison  ?” 

It  is  rathe”  a melancholy  contemplation  for  one 
who  has  traveled  in  these  realms,  seen,  and  can  ap- 
preciate, these  very  useful,  noble  animals  in  all 
their  pride  and  glory,  once  spread  over  the  country 
from  the  Atlantic  Ocean  to  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
now  congregated  in  the  only  place  left  on  the  con- 
tinent for  them,  and  there  rapidly  wasting  away; 
we  must  come  to  the  irresistible  conclusion  that  its 
species  is  soon  to  be  extinguished.  I imagined  that 
if  it  were  possible  for  some  protecting  power  of 
government  to  preserve  in  their  pristine  beauty  and 
wildness,  in  a magnificent  park — one  of  those  of 
which  we  have  spoken — where  the  world  could  see, 
for  ages  to  come,  the  buffalo  and  his  joint  tenant,  the 
Indian,  in  his  wild  attire,  on  his  native  pony,  wi(h 
bow  and  lance,  galloping  amid  a herd  of  t lk,  buffalo 
and  antelope,  what  beautiful  and  interesting  spe- 
cimens of  the  native  animals  they  would  be  for 
America  to  preserve  in  one  of  the  great  national 
parks  here  in  the  mountains,  where  her  refined  » iti- 
zens,  and  the  world  in  future  ages,  might  view  with 
delight  both  man  and  animal,  in  all  the  wildness  < t 
their  native  beauty. 

It  is  not  a pleasant  thought  to  anticipate  the  pe- 


THE  BUFFALOES. 


141 


riod,  which  is  not  far  distant,  when  the  last  of  the 
buffalo  shall  fall  before  the  improvident  rapacity  of 
both  white  and  red  men,  leaving  much  of  their  new 
feeding  grounds  unstocked  and  unpeopled  for  future 
ages.  While  the  buffalo  is  heavy,  full  of  clumsiness 
and  awkward,  just  the  antipodes  of  the  incarnate 
ease  and  grace  of  the  swift  moving  antelope,  they 
present  a pleasing  contrast : especially  so  when  seen 
near  each  other. 

Hunters  sometimes  stick  their  ramrods  in  the 
ground,  tie  a handkerchief  on  it  and  then  secrete 
themselves.  The  unsuspecting  antelope,  with  a 
curiosity  as  fatal  as  mother  Eve,  circles  nearer  and 
nearer  until  he  falls  by  the  well  directed  bullet.  No 
animal  has  a more  remarkable  curiosity  than  this  ; 
when  first  seen  they  will  run  rapidly  off  and  then  come 
back  to  make  the  acquaintance  of  those  by  whom 
they  were  frightened.  The  wolves  are  said  to  chase 
them  in  a circle,  thus  enabling  a fresh  pursuer  to 
take  the  place  of  the  weary  one  every  time  they  pass 
the  starting  point  ; fleetness  falls  a victim  to  cun- 
ning, and  the  antelope  soon  furnishes  a meal  for  the 
hungry  pack. 


CHAPTER  XX. 


ARIZONA — BOUNDARIES  — EARLY  HISTORY  — PHYSICAL 

ASPECTS — AGRICULTURAL  AND  MINERAL  RESOURCES. 

This  is  among  the  oldest  settled  countries  on  the 
Pacific  slope.  Less  is  known  of  Arizona  and  the  neigh- 
boring State  of  Sonora  than  any  other  portion  of 
our  South-Western  Territories.  It  is  bounded  on 
the  north  by  Nevada  and  Utah,  on  the  east  by  New 
Mexico,  and  on  the  west  by  the  Colorado  River, 
which  separates  it  from  California,  and  embraces  an 
area  of  nearly  121,000  square  miles.  Arizona,  to  be 
properly  appreciated,  must  be  considered  as  a whole  ; 
known  as  the  “ Gasden  Purchase,”  or  as  the  Colora- 
do River  District,  gives  but  a very  limited  idea  of 
its  territory ; which  is  necessary  to  a proper  under- 
standing of  its  varied  and  extensive  capabilities, 
and  to  a proper  appreciation  of  its  prospects. 

The  early  history  of  this  territory  is  that  of  Old 
Mexico  ; settlements  were  made  along  the  Gila  River 
and  in  some  other  places  by  the  Jesuit  Missionaries 
from  the  lower  provinces  in  1687,  Many  towns 
were  established  and  settled  quite  rapidly.  The  re- 
ports of  the  rich  mineral  wealth  of  the  new  country, 
caused  for  the  time  a large  emigration.  Tn  1710  re- 


ARIZONA.  143 

ndwed  discoveries  were  made  and  consequent  in- 
crease of  population.  Then  began  a more  general 
conquest  of  the  country,  both  by  the  Jesuits  and  the 
Spanish  Government.  They  continued  to  occupy 
the  territory  up  to  1757,  when  their  enslavement  of 
the  natives  became  so  oppressive  and  cruel,  that  the 
Apache  Indians,  together  with  some  of  their  more 
northern  wilder  neighbors,  rebelled  against  their  cruel 
task-masters,  and  killed  and  drove  from  the  country 
all  the  other  inhabitants.  From  that  time  till  it  was 
purchased  by  the  United  States,  settlement  was  very 
limited  on  account  of  these  unfriendly  natives,  as  life 
and  property  had  no  protection  in  the  country.  Civ- 
ilization of  course  disappeared,  and  at  the  time  of 
the  purchase  the  territory  contained  scarcely  any 
white  population. 

The  remains  of  that  civilization  may  be  seen  in 
deserted  ranches  and  adobe  houses  in  towns  and  vil- 
lages, in  a system  of  agriculture  and  mining.  We 
now  find  about  the  country  the  early  footsteps  of 
that  higher  civilization  which  is  now  to  spread  itself 
over  that  country  to  stay,  and  bring  to  life  and  use- 
fulness the  locked  up  treasures  of  the  mountains, 
and  make  the  valleys  bring  forth  abundantly  for  the 
use  of  all. 

The  territory  is  quite  accessible  from  Los  Ange- 
los, on  the  Pacific  coast,  across  California,  and  is  re- 


144 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


markably  well  timbered  and  watered.  The  upper 
branches  of  the  Colorado  penetrate  the  whole  north- 
ern portion,  while  the  Gila  River  with  its  several  large 
branches  extends  through  the  southern  part,  giving 
unusually  fine  advantages  for  cultivating  the  soil  and 
stock-raising. 

The  settlements  here  are  largely  Mexican;  having 
been  mostly  made  since  the  United  States  acquired 
the  territory,  and  as  the  lands  are  owned  under 
American  title  many  of  them  are  becoming  thorough- 
ly Americanized,  exhibit  better  traits  of  character, 
more  industrious,  better  behaved  and  show  strong 
symptoms  of  constitutional  and  mental  improvement. 
When  these  people,  inferior  physically  and  mentally, 
come  in  contact  and  live  with  our  people,  they  readi- 
ly adapt  themselves  to  the  improved  conditions  of 
life  with  which  they  find  themselves  surrounded. 

Quite  a large  emigration  from  the  Pacific  coast, 
mostly  from  California,  is  centering  here  mostly  for 
mining  purposes  ; but  many  intend  a permanent 
settlement,  believing  the  country  as  a whole  com- 
bined as  much  or  more  real  advantages  than  any 
other,  having  the  soil  and  climate  of  the  southern 
portion  of  California.  When  it  shall  have  railroad 
advantages  with  San  Francisco  and  the  East,  and 
become  entirely  safe  as  against  Indian  depredations, 
those  coming  here  as  tillers  of  the  soil,  miners  or 


ARIZONA. 


146 

tradeis,  will  never  regret  the  choice  they  have 
made.  It  is  supposed,  and  I believe  correctly,  that 
the  Rio  Grande  valley  offers  settlement  to  50,000 
people,  within  the  Arizona  boundaries.  West  of 
this  the  country  is  broken,  a succession  of  table 
lands  moderately  ascending  for  nearly  a hundred 
miles  to  the  Sierra  Madre  Mountains;  irom  there 
gently  descending  until  they  reach  the  Gulf  of  Cali- 
fornia— about  500  miles. 

The  country  south  of  the  Gila  River  has  two 
well  defined  ranges  of  mountains,  known  as  the  Chir- 
aca-heei  and  Santa  Rita.  They  are  the  prolongation 
of  those  ranges  which  have  yielded  silver  so  largely, 
northward  in  Nevada  and  extend  southward  in  So- 
nora, Chihuahua  and  Durang,  which  have  given 
millions  of  silver  for  centuries  past  to  astonish  the 
world  by  their  massive  returns  of  the  precious  ores. 
Arizona*  has  now  been  prospected  and  developed 
sufficiently  to  prove,  beyond  a peradventure.  that.  # 
her  mines  of  gold,  silver  and  copper  are  extensive, 
eligibly  located,  well  defined,  and  as  far  as  worked, 
exceedingly  rich.  They  are  mostly  found  in  regular 
formation  of  trap  and  porphyritic  rocks,  and  undis- 
turbed by  volcanic  action.  The  ores  are  more  easi- 
ly worked  than  in  some  other  places,  and  can  be 
more  inexpensively  reduced.  Silver  is  uever  found 
detached  like  gold,  but  is  found  only  in  the  original 


146  ' BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

quartz-lead  formation.  Experienced  miners  and 
skilled  metallurgists, who  bad  examined  portions  of 
the  mining  region,  were  confident  that  mines  would 
be  found  here  richer  and  more  extensive  than  they 
have  been  found  in  Nevada,  with  better  facilities 
for  working  them. 

Some  very  good  placer  mining  was  discovered  in 
1863,  and  some  considerable  free  gold  washed  out. 
Enough  has  already  been  mined,  and  different  sec- 
tions prospected,  to  make  it  certain  that  this  branch 
of  mining  will  be  no  small  business  of  the  country. 

Irrigation,  as  in  the  country  north  and  east,  is 
necessary  to  agriculture.  The  bottom  lands  are 
fertile  and  will  compare  favorably  with  the  best 
anywhere.  The  season  for  cultivation  is  long;  in- 
deed, it  is  nearly  the  whole  year.  Fruits  blossom  in 
February  and  March,  and  nature  generally  is  in  her 
summer  costume.  Cotton,  wheat,  corn,  barley,  to- 
bacco, grapes,  peaches,  and  all  the  variety  of  vege- 
tables grow  and  yield  largely.  There  is  a native 
Mexican  grape  here,  grown  largely  in  the  Rio 
Grande  valley,  which  has  few  superiors  anywhere, 
and  is  introduced  largely  in  California  both  for  home 
use  and  for  wine. 

R.  C.  McCormick.  Secretary  of  the  Territor}r,  af- 
ter traveling  over  thes  country  extensively,  speaks 
of  its  agricultural  capabilities  in  the  following  lan- 
guage : 


ARIZONA. 


147 


“ While  it  has  much  barren  and  desolate  country, 
I undertake  <;o  say  that  no  mineral  region  belonging 
to  the  United  States — not  excepting  California — 
has,  in  proportion  to  its  extent,  more  arable,  pas* 
ture,  and  timber  lands.  Those  who  have  asserted 
to  the  contrary  have  been  either  superficial  and 
limited  in  their  observations,  or  wilfully  inaccurate 
in  their  statements.” 

All  that  portion  of  Arizona  lying  above  the  Gila 
River  has  a delightful  climate.  (Below  the  heat  is 
oppressive  in  summer.)  Never  excessively  hot,  with 
moderately  cool  summer  nights,  it  offers  more  in- 
ducements to  those  who  desire  more  genial  skies 
than  those  of  the  North  and  East.  Snow  never 
lies  in  winter  and  seldom  falls.  Frost  is  unusual, 
though  the  nights  are  sometimes  quite  cold,  but  not 
freezing.  The  climate  is  nearly  that  of  the  lower 
portion  of  California.  Being  farther  inland,  there 
is  less  humidity  in  the  air  passing  over  it;  but  the 
breezes,  sweeping  inland  from  the  Pacific  coast, 
cools  the  summer  heat  and  makes  it  warmer  in 
winter,  imparting  to  it  largely  the  climate  of  the 
former,  of  which  you  have  heard  so  much,  if  never 
enjoyed. 

That  my  readers  may  have  a fuller  understanding 
of  the  relative  advantages  of  different  sections  of 
the  territory,  I have  thought  proper  to  speak  of  it. 


H8  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

as  the  Territorial  Legislature  organized  and  divided 
it  into  four  counties,  naming  them  after  four  lead- 
ing tribes  of  Indians  residing  within  its  boundaries. 
As  the  Secretary,  of  whom  I have  spoken,  has  given 
a more  accurate  description  than  I could  hope  to 
make,  I give  it  in  his  own  language  : 

PIMA  COUNTY. 

This  county  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  line  ot 
the  Territory  of  New  Mexico;  on  the  north  by  the 
middle  of  the  main  channel  of  the  Gila  River;  on 
the  west  by  the  line  of  113  deg.  20  min.  west  longi- 
tude, and  on  the  south  by  the  Sonora  line.  The  seat 
of  justice  is  established  at  Tucson. 

Fima  County  embraces  all  of  “ the  Gadsden  Pur- 
chase” within  the  territorial  lines,  excepting  the 
small  portion  west  of  113  deg.  20  min.  west  longi 
tude,  which  is  in  Yuma  County,  and  is  the  best  known 
portion  of  Arizona.  This  comes  from  its  early  set- 
tlement, the  development  ol  its  mines,  and  the  ex- 
tensive travel  through  its  length  during  the  running 
of  the  Southern  or  Butterfield  Overland  Mail.  Its 
silver  mines  are  among  the  richest  upon  the  con- 
tinent. Some  of  them  have  been  worked  for  cen- 
turies, and  if  they  have  not  constantly  yielded  a 
large  return,  it  has  been  more  from  a lack  of  pru- 
dent management  or  the  incursions  of  hostile  Indians, 


ARIZONA. 


149 

than  from  any  defect  in  the  quality  or  quantity  of 
the  ore,  or  in  the  facilities  for  extracting  and  work- 
ing the  same.  The  ores  are  chiefly  argentiferous 
galena,  and  are  best  adapted  to  smelting.  The  cop- 
per mines  of  Pima  County  are  surprisingly  rich, 
yielding  in  some  instances  as  high  as  ninety  per 
cent,  of  pure  copper.  The  ores  are  chiefly  red  ox- 
ydes  and  gray  sulphurets. 

Wood  and  water,  if  not  immediately  at  hand,  m y 
usually  be  had  at  a convenient  distance.  The  Santa 
Rita  Mountains  have  fine  pine  forests,  and  between 
Tubac  and  San  Xavier  is  a timber  district  some 
miles  in  width,  extending  from  the  Santa  Cruz  River 
to  the  base  of  the  mountains.  The  timber  is  mes- 
quit,  and  of  a large  size;  for  railroads  and  mining 
. purposes  it  is  well  adapted,  and  must  be  of  incalcu 
la'de  v due;  for  building  purposes  it  is  too  hard  and 
crooked.  The  cotton  wood  is  found  on  the  margin 
of  all  streams;  it  is  of  rapid  growth,  and  well  adapt- 
ed for  building.  The  adobe,  or  sunburnt  brick,  is, 
lmwever,  the  favorite  building  material.  It  is  easily 
and  inexpensively  made,  and,  laid  in  thick  walls, 
furnishes  an  enduring  and  comfortable  house,  better 
suited  to  the  climate  than  any  other. 

The  agricultural  and  pasture  lands  of  Pima  County 
are  very  extensive.  The  valleys  of  the  Gila,  the 
Santa  Cruz,  the  San  Pedro,  and  other  streams,  are 


ARIZONA.  * 151 

towns  in  the  mining  districts  south  of  Tucton  and 
Tubac,  and  on  the  Gila  River,  are  becoming  of  con- 
sequence as  the  agricultural  and  mineral  develop- 
ment of  the  country  progresses.  Their  growth  is 
somewhat  retarded,  as  is  the  prosperity  of  the  whole 
country,  for  the  want  of  an  American  port  upon  the 
Gulf  of  California,  by  which  route  goods  and  ma- 
chinery might  be  speedily  and  economically  receiv- 
ed. The  great  oversight  of  the  United  States  in  the 
failure  to  acquire  such  a port  when  it  might  have 
been  had  without  difficulty  or  expense,  is  keenly  and 
constantly  deplored;  and  it  is  the  hope  of  every  one 
living  in  or  interested  in  Southern  Arizona,  that  our 
government  will,  by  negotiation  (if  coming  events  do 
not  afford  other  means,)  soon  secure  either  the  port 
of  Libertad  or  Guaymas,  or  both.  Indeed,  the  geo- 
graphical relations  of  the  State  of  Sonora  to  Arizona, 
and  our  access  to  the  Pacific,  are  such  that  its  acqui- 
sition seems  little  less  than  a matter  of  duty. 

From  Libertad,  it  is  but  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  to  the  mining  regions  of  the  lower  portions  of 
Pima  County;  and  from  Guaymas,  the  distance  is 
about  three  hundred  miles;  both  roads  are  easy,  and 
supplied  with  grass  aud  water.  The  transportation 
of  mining  supplies  from  Los  Angelos  or  Fort  Yuma, 
as  is  now  necessary  in  order  to  escape  the  heavy  du- 
ties imposed  in  Sonora,  although  entirely  practicable, 


152  BEYOND  TTIE  WEST. 

involves  much  more  overland  travel,  and  consequent- 
ly increased  delay  and  expense. 

YUMA  COUNTY. 

This  county  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  line  of 
113  deg.  20  min.  west  longitude,  on  the  north  by  the 
middle  of  the  main  stream  of  the  Santa  Maria,  to  its 
junction  with  Williams’  Fork;  thence  by  the  middle 
of  the  main  channel  of  said  stream  to  the  junction  of 
the  Colorado  River;  on  the  west  by  the  main  chan- 
nel of  the  Colorado,  and  on  the  south  by  the  Sono- 
ra line. 

The  seat  of  justice  is  established  at  La  Paz.  Of 
the  two  counties  upon  the  Colorado,  (Yuma  and  Mo- 
jave,) this  has  at  present  the  largest  population. 
Until  1862,  it  was  comparatively  unknown  for  any 
distance  above  Fort  Yuma;  indeed,  the  Colorado 
had  barely  been  explored. 

The  discovery  in  1858,  of  gold  on  the  Gila  River, 
about  20  miles  from  its  junction  with  the  Colorado, 
attracted  considerable  attention,  and  prompted  the 
laying  out  Gila  City;  but  it  was  not  until  1862  that 
emigration  started  up  the  Colorado.  At  that  date 
the  finding  of  rich  placers  at  Chimney  Peak,  20  miles 
above  Fort  Yuma,  and  at  various  points  from  8 to  20 
milea  back  of  the  site  of  the  present  town  of  La  Paz, 
110  miles  from  the  fort,  drew  a large  number  of  mi- 


ARIZONA.  153 


ners  and  pn  specters  from  California  and  Sonora. 
The  subsequent  discovery  of  multitudinous  silver 
and  copper  mines  upon  and  adjacent  to  the  river,  in 
what  are  now  known  as  the  Yuma,  Castle  Dome,  Sil- 
ver, Eureka,  Weaver,  Chimehuiva,  and  La  Paz  min- 
ing districts;  and  the  opening  in  1863  of  the  interior 
country  (Central  Arizona,)  have  given  it  an  activity 
and  importance  second  to  that  of  no  portion  of  the 
Territory.  As  yp  its  settlements  are  all  upon  the 
river.  La  Paz,  the  chief  of  these,  is  a busy  commer- 
cial town  of  adobe  buildings,  with  a population  about 
equally  American  and  Spanish.  It  has  some  stores 
that  would  not  do  discredit  to  San  Francisco,  and  en- 
joys a large  trade,  extending  up  and  down  the  river 
and  to  Central  Arizona. 

Castle  Dome,  Mineral  City,  and  Olive  City,  all  up- 
on the  Colorado,  between  Fort  Yama  and  La  Paz,  are 
mining  towns  yet  small,  but  destined  to  become  of 
consequence  as  the  depots  of  mining  districts  of  great 
richness,  which  cannot  long  remain  undeveloped. 

The  8:1  ver  ores  of  Yuma  County  are  mostly  argen- 
tiferous galena.  Those  of  Castle  Dome  district,  40 
miles  above  Fort  Yuma,  according  to  Prof.  Blake, 
are  found  in  a vein  stone  of  fluor  spar. 

The  same  authority  reports  the  copper  ores  as  < 
nearly  all  containing  silver  and  gold;  some  of  which 
give  forty  per  cent,  of  copper  yield  at  the  rate  of 
sixt}'  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton. 


15L  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

A quicksilver  mine  discovered  near  La  Paz  is  at 
tracting  considerable  attention  in  San  Francisco. 

The  face  of  Yuma  County  is  for  the  most  part 
mountainous  and  barren,  although  the  Colorado  bot 
tom.  and  occasional  valleys,  are  fertile,  and  the  Indi- 
ans have  fine  crops.  Wood  sufficient  for  fuel  and 
for  present  mining  operations  is  found  in  the  moun- 
tain ravines  and  along  the  streams. 

A main  highway  from  the  Colorado  to  Central  Ar- 
izona starts  from  La  Paz,  and  is  one  of  the  smoothest 
natural  roads  I have  ever  seen.  Its  course  to  the 
Hassayampa  River  (110  miles,)  is  almost  an  air-line, 
and  in  the  whole  distance  there  is  nothing  to  obstruct 
the.  passage  of  the  frailest  vehicle  or  of  the  heaviest 
train.  It  lacks  a sufficiency  of  water  and  of  grass 
for  animals,  and  a company  chartered  by  the  Legis- 
lature is  taking  steps  to  provide  wells  and  feeding 
stations.  The  road  will  connect  at  La  Paz  with  that 
from  San  Bernardino,  which  is  smooth,  with  but  lit 
tie  sand,  and  already  provided  with  tanks  and  sta 
tions.  The  whole  distance  from  San  Bernardino  to 
Prescott,  the  capital  of  the  Territory,  is  less  than  350 
miles.  Emigrants  from  California  to  Central  Arizo- 
na travel  by  these  roads,  or  by  those  of  about  the 
same  length  from  San  Bernardino  to  Fort  Mojave, 
and  from  there  to  Prescott. 

Sixty  miles  from  La  Paz,  on  the  road  to  Prescott 


ARIZONA. 


155 

are  the  Harcuvar  Mountains,  which  contain  numer- 
ous valuable  copper  lodes,  and  the  Penhatchapet 
Mountains,  wherein  very  rich  gold  quartz  has  been 
found. 

MOJAVE  COUNTY. 

This  county  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  line  of 
113  deg.  20  min.  west  longitude  ; on  the  north  by 
the  parrallel  of  37  deg.  north  latitude  ^on  the  west 
by  the  line  of  the  State  of  California  and  the  middle 
of  the  main  channel  of  the  Colorado  River,  and  on- 
the  south  by  Williams’  Fork  and  the  main  channel 
of  the  Santa  Maria  River  above  its  junction  with  the 
latter  stream.  The  seat  of  justice  is  established  at 
Mojave  City.  This  county  lies  directly  north  of 
Yuma  County  and  is  of  the  same  general  character. 

Ascending  the  Colorado,  the  first  point  of  interest 
is  Williams’  Fork,  the  southern  line  of  the  county. 
It  is  the  largest  tributary  of  the  Colorado,  and  has 
its  rise  in  the  interior  country  almost  as  far  east  as 
Prescott.  It  is  not  navigable,  but  usually  has  a 
good  body  of  water.  Some  of  the  richest  copper 
mines  in  the  territory  are  near  to  its  banks,  and  have 
already  been  extensively  and  profitably  worked. 
Quantities  of  the  ore  sent  to  Swansea  have  given  a 
larger  return  than  was  expected,  and  it  is  clearly 
demonstrated  that  it  will  pay  to  ship  to  that  place, 
or  to  Boston,  if  reduction  works  cannot  be  reached 
at  a nearer  point. 


1.56  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

A road  along  Williams’  Fork  and  its  tributary,  the 
Santa  Maria,  leads  to  Prescott,  but  it  will  need  con- 
siderable work  to  be  made  popular.  A company 
was  chartered  by  the  Legislature  to  improve  it.  In 
the  opinion  of  Capt.  Walker,  the  veteran  pioneer  of 
Central  Arizona,  and  of  others,  the  junction  of  Wil- 
liams’ Fork  and  the  Colorado  is  the  natural  and  best 
point  for  a lajge  town  or  city  ; and  a town  named 
Aubry  has  been  laid  out  there. 

Fort  Mojave,  upon  the  Colorado,  160  miles  above 
La  Paz,  is  a noted  point,  aud  one  of  the  longest  oc- 
cupied in  the  territory  by  the  whites.  Within  a 
mile  of  the  fort  is  Mojave  City,  a sprightly  town 
laid  out  and  chiefly  built  by  the  California  volun- 
teers stationed  at  the  fort  for  two  or  three  years 
past.  There  are  some  good  agricultural  lands  in  the 
vicinity,  and  gardens  abound.  The  visit  of  the  chief 
of  the  Mojave  Indians  (Ireteba)  to  New  York  and 
Washington  in  1863-4,  gave  him  such  an  exalted 
opinion  of  the  white  man  and  the  power  of  ttie  Gen‘ 
eral  Government,  that  he  has  not  ceased  to  urge  his 
people  to  the  most  friendly  relations,  and  to  habits 
of  industry  and  enterprise. 

At  Mojave,  as  at  La  Paz  and  Fort  Yuma,  there  is 
a well-regulated  ferry  across  the  Colorado,  with 
scows  calculated  to  convey  wagons  and  stock. 

Hardy ville,  nine  miles  above  Mojave,  upon  the 


ARIZONA. 


157 


Colorado,  is  a young,  but  active  and  hopeful  settle- 
ment. It  has  a large  trade  from  the  quartz  mining 
districts  around  it,  and  even  from  the  Wauba  Yuma 
district,  40  miles  in  the  interior,  and  from  Prescott, 
the  capital,  160  miles  inland. 

Recently  the  Utah  people  have  flocked  to  Hardy- 
ville  for  their  annual  supplies,  finding  it  much  easier 
than  to  go,  as  heretofore,  to  San  Bernardino  and  Los 
Angelos. 

The  mines  of  the  several  districts  contiguous  to 
Mojave  and  Hardyville,  and  of  Eldorado  Canon,  60 
miles  further  up  the  river,  are  among  the  most  noted 
and  promising  in  the  newly-known  portions  of  Ari- 
zona. The  ledges  are  many  of  them  very  large  ; 
the  ores,  both  of  gold  and  silver,  the  latter  predomi- 
nating, are  surprisingly  rich.  Considerable  money 
has  alread}7  been  expended  in  opening  the  lodes; 
one  or  two  mills  are  in  operation,  and  others  are  con- 
tracted for.  Immediately  upon  the  river  there  is  a 
dearth  of  wood,  but  a supply  may  be  had  from  the 
Sacramento  and  Wauba  Yuma  districts,  and  from  the 
Yegas,  30  miles  north  of  El  Dorado  Canon,  or  from 
the  Buckskin  Mountains,  100  miles  north.  Rafted 
down  the  river,  it  would  cost  but  little  more  than  for 
the  cutting.  Some  mountains  60  miles  above  El  Do- 
rado Canon,  and  within  six  miles  of  the  river,  contain 
salt  in  beautiful  transparent  crystals,  and  of  the  finest 
quality. 


158 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


The  navigation  of  the  Colorado  above  El  Dorado 
Canon  has  only  been  attempted  (excepting  by  Ives) 
since  the  Mormon  trade  began  to  attract  attention 
and  to  assume  importance.  It  has  been  ascertained 
by  trial  that  steamboats  may  ascend  at  all  seasons  to 
a point  100  miles  north  of  Hardyville,  and  less  than 
400  miles  from  Great  Salt  L ike  City,  by  a road  over 
which  goods  may  be  hauled  without  difficulty.  At 
this  point  upon  the  river,  a town  named  Callville  is 
just  begun.  It  will  be  the  depot  for  Utah,  and  of 
course  more  convenient  than  Hardyville.  Callville 
is  but  a little  more  than  100  miles  south  of  St.  George, 
a thrifty  Mormon  town  close  upon  the  Arizona  line, 
if  not  within  the  Territory,  and  from  which  place,  and 
the  fertile  district  about  it,  supplies  of  cheese,  but- 
ter, vegetables  and  fruit,  have  already  found  their 
way  to  the  mining  districts  of  El  Dorado  Canon,  Har- 
dyville and  Mojave. 

The  Colorado  is  the  largest  river  between  the  Mis- 
sissippi and  the  Pacific,  and  the  only  navigable  stream 
in  Arizona.  Its  position  between  the  Territory  and 
California,  its  connection  with  the  Gulf  and  the  Pa- 
cific, the  vast  mineral  wealth  of  its  banks,  and  the 
important  trade  of  Arizona  and  Utah,  make  it  a most 
valuable  highway,  and  one  to  the  navigation  of  which 
careful  attention  should  be  given.  With  a constant- 
ly changing  channel,  a swift  current,  and  a bed  of 


ARIZONA. 


159 


quicksand,  it  requires  experience,  patience  and  skill, 
to  conduct  the  steamers  with  safet}7.  These  are  ne- 
cessarily of  light  draft,  and  limited  accommodation 
for  freight.  It  is  believed  that  those  now  in  use 
may,  by  remodeling,  be  greatly  improved  in  speed 
and  capacity,  and  that  freight  may  be  delivered  at 
much  less  cost  of  time  and  money  than  is  now  re- 
quired. In  the  upper  part  of  the  river  are  a few 
obstructions,  for  the  removal  of  which  a small  appro- 
priation has  been  asked  from  Congress. 

The  present  rates  of  freight  are  from  two  to  three 
cents  per  pound  from  San  Francisco,  to  towns  as  high 
up  the  river  as  La  Paz,  and  four  cents  to  Hardyville  ; 
probably  six  to  Callville.  Ore  is  carried  to  San  Fran- 
cisco for  from  $20  to  $25  per  ton.  This  is  consider- 
ably cheaper  than  transportation  can  be  had  by  the 
roads  across  California.  As  yet  there  is  only  an  ir- 
regular line  of  sailing  vessels  from  San  Francisco  to 
the  mouth  of  Colorado,  (one  hundred  miles  below 
Fort  Puma,)  and  upon  an  average  three  weeks  are 
consumed  in  making  the  voyage.  With  a line  of 
propellers,  as  projected,  this  tinie  might  be  be  reduc- 
ed to  a week  or  ten  days. 

YAVAPAI  COUNTY. 

This  county  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  line  of 
the  Territory  of  New  Mexico;  on  the  north  by  the 


LGO 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


parallel  of  37  deg.  north  latitude  ; on  the  west  by 
the  line  of  113  deg.  20  min.  west  longitude,  and  on 
the  south  by  the  middle  of  the  main  channel  of  the 
Gila  River.  The  seat  of  justice  is  established  at 
Prescott,  which  is  also  the  capital  of  the  Territory. 
Yavapai  County  embraces  a part  of  Arizona  as  yet 
unknown  to  the  map  makers,  and  in  which  the  Ter- 
ritorial officers  arrived  hard  upon  the  heels  of  the 
first  white  inhabitants.  Until  1863,  saving  for  a 
short  distance  above  the  Gila,  it  was  even  to  the 
daring  trapper  and  adventursome  gold-seeker  a terra 
incognita , although  one  of  the  richest  mineral,  agri- 
cultural, grazing  and  timber  divisions  of  the  Territo- 
ry, and  abundantly  supplied  with  game.  Yavapai 
County  is  nearly  as  large  as  the  State  of  New  York. 
The  Yerde  and  Salinas  Rivers,  tributaries  of  the  Gi- 
la, which  run  through  its  centre,  abound  in  eviden- 
ces of  a former  civilization.  Here  are  the  most  ex- 
tensive and  impressive  ruins  to  be  found  in  the  Ter- 
ritory— relics  of  cities,  of  aqueducts,  acequias  and 
canals  ; of  mining  and  farming  operations,  and  of  oth- 
er employments,  indicating  an  industrious  and  enter- 
prising people.  Mr.  Bartlett  refers  to  these  ruins 
as  traditionally  reported  to  him,  to  show  the  extent 
of  the  agricultural  population  formerly  supported 
here,  as  well  as  to  furnisli  an  argument  to  sustain  the 
opinion  that  this  is  one  of  the  most  desirable  po-i- 


ARIZONA.  161 

tions  for  an  agricultural  settlement  of  any  between 
the  Rio  Grande  and  the  Colorado.  The  same  au- 
thority says  a district  north  of  and  immediately  con- 
tiguous to  the  Gila  River  is,  par  excellence,  the  finest 
agricultural  district  in  our  territories  lying  in  the 
same  latitude,  between  Eastern  Texas  and  the  Pa- 
cific— for  the  greht  extent  and  richness  of  the  soil  ; 
the  abundance  and  excellence  of  the  water  ; the  cot- 
tonwood timber  for  building  purposes  ; the  fine  quar- 
ries of  stone  in  the  adjacent  hills,  and  for  the  facili- 
ty with  which  it  may  be  approached  from  every 
quarter. 

The  district  in  question  lies  at  the  junction,  and 
in  a measure  forms  the  delta  of  the  Salinas  and  Gila 
Rivers.  It  lies  but  a little  above  the  bed  of  the  riv- 
er, and  might  be,  in  consequence,  easily  irrigated. 
.The  arable  bottom  land  is  from  two  to  four  miles  in 
width,  and  is  overgrown  with  mesquit ; while  on  the 
river’s  margin  grow  large  cottonwoods.  The  river 
is  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  wide, 
from  two  to  four  feet  deep,  and  both  rapid  and  clear. 
I i ihese  respects  it  differs  from  the  Gila,  which  is 
slrggish  and  muddy  for  two  hundred  miles. 

A portion  of  the  Gila  valley  is  occupied  by  two 
tribes  of  Indians,  noted  for  their  good  traits — the  Pi- 
mas  and  Maricopas.  The  lands  cultivated  extend 
from  sixteen  to  twenty  miles  along  the  river,  center- 


102  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

ing  at  the  Pima  villages.  Irrigating  canals  conduct 
the  water  of  the  Gila  over  all  the  district.  The  In- 
dians raise  wheat,  corn,  millet,  beans,  pumpkins  and 
melons,  in  great  abundance.  They  also  raise  a su- 
perior quality  of  cotton,  from  which  they  spin  and 
weave  their  own  garments.  There  is  a steam  grist 
mill  at  the  Pima  villages,  and  a large  quantity  of 
excellent  flour  is  annually  made.  I have  no  doubt 
that  the  Gila  bottoms  alone  afford  arable  land  suffi- 
cient to  raise  food  for  a densely-populated  State. 
But  these  are  by  no  means  all  of  the  agricultural 
lands  of  Yavapai  County.  The  Val  de  Chino,  so 
called  by  Whipple,  where  Fort  Whipple  was  first 
established,  and  the  territorial  officers  first  halted, 
is  nearly  one  hundred  miles  in  length,  and  abounds 
in  tillable  and  pastoral  lands.  The  valley  of  the 
Little  Colorado,  on  the  35th  parallel,  is  large  and 
well  adapted  to  cultivation.  There  are  numerous 
other  valleys  near  to  Prescott,  and  the  road  from 
the  Colorado  River,  via  Mojave  and  Hardyville,  to 
that  place,  is  described  by  a recent  traveler  as  being 
“ for  over  a hundred  miles  of  the  way  a prairie 
country  that  would  compare  with  the  best  in  the 
world  for  grazing,  and  with  most  of  the  Western 
States  for  agriculture.” 

In  timber  lands  Yavapai  County  exceeds  all  oth- 
ers in  the  territory.  Beginning  some  miles  south 


ARIZONA. 


163 

j 

of  Prescott,  and  running  north  of  the  San  Francisco 
Mountain,  is  a forest  of  yellow  pine,  interspersed 
with  oik,  sufficient  to  supply  all  the  timber  for 
building  material,  for  mining,  and  for  fuel  that  can 
oe  required  for  a large  population. 

At  a distance  of  forty  miles  north  of  the  Gila 
River,  Yavapai  County  becomes  mountainous,  and 
on  every  side  are  mines  of  gold,  silver  and  copper. 

The  placer  diggings  upon  the  Hassayampa,  the  Agua 
Frio,  Lynx  Creek,  and  other  streams  in  this  region, 
now  known  as  Central  Arizona,  were  first  found  by 
the  explorers,  Capts.  Walker  and  Weaver,  in  1863. 
They  entered  the  country  simultaneously,  though 
without  concert  of  action,  one  coming  from  the  Gila 
and  one  from  the  Colorado.  In  the  same  year  the 
quartz  lodes  attracted  attention,  and  people  flocked 
to  the  district  from  all  quarters.  The  territorial 
officers,  then  on  the  Rio  Grande  en  route  for  the  ter- 
ritory, were  induced  to  turn  westward,  via  the  35th 
parallel  or  Whipple  route,  and  make  a personal  ex- 
amination of  the  country.  The  investigations  of 
Governor  Goodwin,  who  spent  some  months  in  travel 
over  the  territory,  going  as  far  south  as  the  Sonora 
line,  and  east  to  the  Yerde  and  Salinas,  convinced 
him  that  this  promised  to  be  a most  important  and 
populous  section,  and  here  he  concluded  to  convene 
the  first  Legislative  Assembly. 


U>4  UKYOND  THE  WEST. 

Prescott,  the  capital,  is  in  the  heart  of  a raining 
district,  second,  in  my  judgment,  to  none  upon  the 
Pacific  coast.  The  surface  ores  of  thirty  mines  of 
gold,  silver  and  copper,  which  I had  assayed  in  San 
Francisco,  were  pronounced  equal  to  any  surface 
ores  ever  tested  by  the  metallurgists,  who  are  among 
the  most  skillful  and  experienced  in  the  city,  and,  so 
far  as  ore  has  been  had  from  a depth,  it  fully  sus- 
tains its  reputation.  The  veins  are  large  and  boldly 
defined,  and  the  ores  are  of  varied  classes,  usually 
such  as  to  be  readily  and -inexpensively  worked, 
while  the  facilities  for  working  them  are  of  a supe- 
rior order.  At  the  ledges  is  an  abundant  supply  of 
wood  and  water;  near  at  hand  are  grazing  and  farm- 
ing lands,  and  roads  may  be  opened  in  every  direc- 
tion without  great  cost.  The  altitude  is  so  great 
that  the  temperature  is  never  oppressively  warm; 
the  nights,  even  in  midsummer,  are  refreshingly  cool 
and  bracing.  The  ascent  from  the  river  by  the  roads 
from  La  Paz  and  Mojave  is  so  easy,  that  with  the 
small  amount  of  work  already  done  upon  the  same, 
the  heaviest  machinery  may  be  readily  transported. 
The  distance  by  either  road  is  about  one  hundred 
and  sixty  miles  and  the  charge  for  freight  from  six 
cents  to  eight  cents  per  pound.  Contracts  may  now 
be  made  for  the  delivery  of  machinery  at  Prescott 
from  San  Francisco,  via  the  Colorado,  for  ten  cents 
per  pound. 


ARIZONA. 


105 


Prescott  is  built  exclusively  of  wood,  and  inhab 
ited  almost  entirely  by  Americans,  mainly  from  Cali 
fornia  and  Colorado.  Picturesquely  located  in  the 
pine-clad  mountains,  it  resembles  a town  in  North- 
ern New  England.  The  first  house  was  erected  in 
June  last,  and  now  the  town  has  some  hundreds  of 
inhabitants,  and  the  country  for  fifty  miles  about, 
including  a dozen  mining  districts  and  farming  val- 
leys, is  largely  taken  up  by  settlers.  The  valleys 
will,  it  is  thought,  produce  good  crops  without  irri- 
gation, as  the  raius  in  this  region  are  frequent  and 
heavy. 

The  Territorial  Government  is  now  permanently 
established,  giving  to  all  the  protection  of  the  laws, 
as  far  as  it  is  possible  to  do  so.  Those  who  are 
within  the  somewhat  settled  sections  now  have  all 
the  protection  necessary  for  life  and  property. 
Prescott,  the  capital,  is  situated  near  the  center  of 
the  territory ; it  has  a printing  establishment, 
churches  and  schools,  and  is  something  of  a city  on 
the  plain  upon  which  it  stands.  It  was  the  princi- 
pal home  station  of  the  Butterfield  Overland  stages 
by  the  Santa  Fe  route  to  San  Francisco.  Being  eli- 
gibly located  on  the  north  branch  of  the  Gila  River, 
and  having  direct  communication  with  the  Pacific 
coast  by  a good  wagon  road  to  Los  Angelos,  gives 
it  a business  prominence  which  will  be  largely  in- 


106  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

creased  as  facilities  are  extended  and  the  country 
more  improved. 

The  law  here  regulating  the  location,  ownership 
and  development  of  mining  lands,  is  the  best  de- 
vised on  the  subject,  and  ought  to  be  adopted  in 
other  mining  territories. 

I would  most  respectfully  urge  my  readers  who 
are  fortunate  enough  to  be  in  San  Francisco,  to  take 
the  coast  steamer  and  go  down  to  Los  Angelos,  and 
visit  for  a trifling  expense  a very  interesting  section 
of  the  lower  part  of  California,  the  great  Colorado 
River  and  Western  Arizona.  To  miss  seeing  this 
important  part  of  the  coast  would  be  too  great  a 
sacrifice  for  the  traveler  to  make. 

■ 


/ 


CHAPTER  XXL 

TRAPPING  BEAVER. 

While  traveling  through  some  of  the  mountain 
ranges  where,  thickly  wooded  along  the  streams,  my 
attention  was  often  attracted  by  the  work  of  these 
mysterious  animals,  for  they  had  been  very  numer- 
ous in  favorable  locations  for  them  during  many 
years  past,  notwithstanding  the  many  traps  set  for 
them  by  skillful  hands.  Most  of  them  have  been 
caught,  but  their- works  do  not  follow  them.  They 
are  remarkably  shy,  seldom  seen  by  daylight,  and 
have  such  a keen  sense  of  hearing,  that  nothing  can 
approach  near  enough  to  see  them  before  they  dis- 
appear under  the  water. 

When  at  Albany  a short  time  since,  I visited  for 
the  first  time  since  my  return  the  Agricultural 
Rooms,  and  saw  there  several  very  good  specimens 
of  their  work,  recently  obtained,  to  perpetuate  their 
skill  and  labor.  I examined  them  with  more  than 
ordinary  interest,  having  seen  and  investigated 
much  of  their  rather  remarkable  works. 

These  animals  have  been  numerously  found  in  all 
these  mountain  regions,  and  have  been  trapped  in 
all  possible  ways  for  their  valuable  furs,  which  ha? 


168  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

been  no  inconsiderable  profit  to  the  trapper  and  the 
trader  in  time  past. 

While  in  a placer  mining  town  on  the  Arkansas 
River,  I met  an  old  mountain’  trapper,  now  mining 
and  trapping  occasionally,  from  whom  I obtained  the 
substance  of  the  following  article,  which  is  so  com- 
plete that  I have  thought  it  might  not  be  uninter- 
esting to  the  reader.  The  beaver  is  caught  usually 
with  an  ordinary  steel  trap  weighing  about  five 
pounds;  a chain  is  attached  to  it  a few  feet  long, 
having  a snivel  and  ring  at  the  end,  which  revolves 
around  what  is  called  a float — a dry  piece  of  wood. 
The  trap  is  placed  in  shallow  water  about  six  inches 
deep,  when  the  float  is  attached  to  the  chain,  and 
driven  firmly  into  the  ground,  so  that  the  beaver 
cannot  pull  it  out.  A small  twig,  dipped  in  musk  or 
castor,  is  used  for  bait,  and  is  suspended  directly 
over  the  set  trap.  The  trapper  returns  to  the  bank 
and  throws  water  over  his  tracks,  to  wash  out  any 
footsteps  or  scent  by  which  the  beaver  would  be 
frightened,  then  remains  in  the  stream  for  some  dis- 
tance before  he  wades  out.  Care  must  be  taken  to 
place  the  bait  just  where  the  beaver  will  spring  the 
trap  when  reaching  it.  Should  the  bait  stick  be 
placed  high  the  hind  foot  will  be  caught,  if  low  the 
fore  foot.  The  trap  must  be  firmly  fixed,  and  at  the 
proper  distance  from  the  shore,  for  if  the  beaver 


TRAPPING  BEAVER. 


TRAPPING  BEAVER.  169 

can  get  out  of  the  water  with  the  trap  he  will  at 
once  eat  off  his  leg  to  escape. 

The  way  in  which  the  beavers  construct  their 
dam  and  make  their  lodge  has  been  considered  among 
the  wonders  of  the  animal  instinct.  Some  have 
claimed  for  the  little  creature  more,  no  doubt,  than 
belongs  to  it,  yet  its  sagacity  is  somewhat  wonder- 
ful. It  certainly  does  know  how  to  make  the  water 
of  a stream  rise  to  a given  level  by  placing  obstruc- 
tions across  the  channel  to  back  up  the  water. 

It  is  not  true,  however,  that  it  can  always  fall  a 
tree  in  the  proper  direction  for  this  purpose.  I saw 
very  many  lodged,  which  they  had  ate  off,  but  gen- 
erally lay  in  the  direction  of  the  water;  but  trees 
generally  along  the  banks  of  streams  take  the  direc- 
tion of  the  water  by  gravitation. 

When  they  are  successful — get  a tree  down  in 
where  they  want  it — they  take  their  places  along 
the  body  of  it,  like  good  wood-choppers,  and  begin 
to  take  off  the  logs  the  various  lengths  required  for 
their  dam — regard  being  had  as  to  their  being  able 
to  remove  it  where  needed.  When  put  in  place, 
they  secure  it  with  sticks,  stones  and  mud. 

The  work  is  commenced  when  the  water  is  low, 
and  continued  as  it  rises,  until  the  desired  height  is 
attained.  They  manifest  some  very  good  engineer- 
ing. The  dam  is  not  only  built  of  the  requisite 


1T0  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

height  and  strength,  but  its  shape  is  suited  to  the 
place  and  the  stream  in  which  it  is  built. 

Should  the  water  be  sluggish,  and  little  current, 
the  dam  is  straight;  if  turbulent,  the  dam  is  con- 
structed of  a convex  form — the  better  to  resist  the 
current,  made  much  thicker  and  stronger,  where  the 
action  of  the  water  is  the  greatest. 

After  many  years,  the  water  being  spread  over  a 
large  space,  often  filled  up  by  yearly  accumulations, 
seeds  take  root  in  the  new  made  ground,  and  the  old 
beaver  dam  becomes  a green  meadow,  or  thickets  of 
young  trees.  The  beaver  subsists  on  the  bark  of 
young  trees  ; and  when  laying  up  a winter  supply, 
all  the  workers  in  the  community  unite  their  labors 
of  selecting,  cutting  up  and  carting  the  strips  to  their 
common  store-house  under  water. 

“The  beaver  has  two  incisors  and  eight  molars  in 
each  jaw  ; and  empty  hollows  where  the  canine  teeth 
might  be.  The  upper  pair  of  cutting  teeth  extend 
far  into  the  jaw,  with  a curve  of  rather  more  than  a 
semicircle  ; and  the  lower  pair  of  incisors  form  rath- 
er less  than  a semicircle.  Sometimes,  one  of  these 
teeth  gets  broken,  and  then  the  opposite  tooth  con- 
tinues growing  until  it  forms  a nearly  complete  cir- 
cle. The  chewing  muscle  of  the  beaver  is  strength- 
ened by  tendons  in  such  a way  as  to  give  it  great 
power.  But  more  is  needed  to  enable  the  beaver  to 

y 


TRAPPING  BEAVER.  17 1 

eat  wood.  The  insalivation  of  the  dry  food  is  pro- 
vided for  by  the  extraordinary  size  of  the  salivary 
glands. 

“Now,  every  part  of  these  instruments  is  of  vital 
importance  to  the  beavers.  The  loss  of  an  incisor 
involves  the  formation  of  an  obstructive  circular 
tooth  ; deficiency  of  saliva  renders  the  food  indiges- 
tible ; and  when  old  age  comes,  and  the  enamel  is 
worn  down  faster  than  it  is  renewed,  the  beaver  is 
no  longer  able  to  cut  branches  for  its  support.  Old, 
feeble  and  poor ; unable  to  borrow,  and  ashamed  to 
beg,  he  steals  cuttings,  and  subjects  himself  to  the 
penalty  assigned  to  theft.  Aged  beavers  are  often 
found  dead  with  gashes  in  their  bodies,  showing  that 
they  have  been  killed  by  their  mates.  In  the  fall  of 
1864,  a very  aged  beaver  was  caught  in  one  of  the 
dams  of  the  Esconawba  River,  and  this  was  the  re- 
flection of  a great  authority  on  the  occasion,  one  Ah- 
she-goes,  an  Ojibwa  trapper  : ‘Had  he  escaped  the 
trap,  he  would  have  been  killed  before  the  winter 
was  over,  by  other  beavers,  for  stealing  cuttings.* 

“When  the  beavers  are  about  two  or  three  years 
old,  their  teeth  are  in  the  best  condition  for  cutting. 
On  the  Upper  Missouri,  they  cut  the  cotton  tree  and 
the  willow  bush  ; around  Hudson’s  Bay  and  L ike  Su- 
perior, in  addition  to  the  willow  they  cut  the  poplar 
and  maple,  hemlock,  spruce  and  pine.  The  cutting 


172  BFYOND  THE  WEST. 

is  round  and  round,  and  deepest  upon  the  side  on 
which  they  wish  the  tree  to  fall.  Indians  and  trap 
pers  have  seen  beavers  cutting  trees.  The  felling 
of  a tree  is  a family  affair.  No  more  than  a single 
pair,  with  two  or  three  young  ones,  are  engaged  at 
a time.  The  adults  take  the  cutting  in  turns — one 
gnawing  and  the  other  watching  ; and  occasionally  a 
youngster  trying  his  incisors.  The  beaver  whilst 
gnawing,  sits  on  his  plantigrade  hind  legs,  which 
keep  him  conveniently  upright.  When  the  tree  be- 
gins to  crackle,  the  beavers  work  cautiously  ; and 
when  it  crashes  down,  they  plunge  into  the  pond, 
fearful  lest  the  noise  should  attract  an  enemy  to  the 
spot.  After  the  tree  fall  comes  the  lopping  of  the 
branches.  A single  tree  may  be  winter  provision  for 
a family.  Branches  five  or  six  inches  thick,  have  to 
be  cut  into  proper  lengths  for  transport,  and  are  then 
taken  home.” 

The  lodge  is  usually  five  or  six  feet  in  diameter, 
and  about  half  as  high  ; dome-shaped,  with  thick, 
strong  walls,  and  communicate  with  the  shore  by 
subterranean  passages,  below  where  the  water  free- 
zes in  winter.  Their  lodges  are  made  to  accommo- 
date a family,  and  each  has  its  own  bed,  properly 
placed  round  the  walls.  Their  domestic  life  is  one 
of  order  and  neatness — a place  for  everything,  and 
everything  in  its  place.  After  eating,  the  dishes  are 


TRAPPING  BEAVER.  173 

wished  up — unusual  for  the  country!  The  sticks 
that  have  been  stripped  are  carefully  packed  up  and 
carried  out,  either  to  repair  their  dam,  or  be  thrown 
into  the  stream. 

During  the  summer  months  the  beavers  leave  their 
winter  home  and  travel  about  the  streams,  occasion- 
ally making  quite  long  journeys.  Should  any  re- 
main at  home  they  are  the  mothers  of  little  families. 
About  the  first  of  September  the  community  return 
home  and  begin  tbeir  preparations  for  the  responsi- 
ble duties  of  the  long  winter  months.  This  habit, 
like  that  of  the  crowning  woyk  of  creation,  has  ex- 
ceptions. There  are  a certain  few  individuals,  who 
have  no  families,  make  no  dam,  do  no  work,  and  nev- 
er live  in  family  lodges,  but  live  by  themselves,  oys- 
ter-like, in  a shell  in  subterranean  recesses — idlers, 
and  the  trappers  call  them  “bachelors!” 

Several  of  them  are  sometimes  found  in  one  abode, 
which  the  trappers  denominate  “ bachelor’s  hall.” 
They  are  more  easily  taken,  and  the  trapper  is  al- 
ways glad  to  come  upon  their  habitations. 

The  season  for  trapping  beaver  is  spring  and  fall. 
Should  the  business  be  continued  in  winter,  they  are 
captured  by  sounding  on  the  ice  until  an  opening  is 
discovered,  when  the  ice  is  removed  and  the  open- 
ing closed  up.  Returning  to  the  bank,  search  is 
made  to  find  the  subterranean  passage  and  trace  it 


174  BEYOND  TIIE  WEST. 

to  the  lodge,  and  by  watching  succeed  in  catching 
the  animal  on  some  of  its  travels  between  the  water 
and  the  land.  This  is  seldom  resorted  to,  only  when 
urged  by  famine  to  take  them  for  food. 

Sometimes,  several  members  of  a beaver  family  are 
trapped  in  succession,  when  the  survivors  become 
very  shy, and  can’t  be  “brought  to  medicine,”  to  use 
a trapper’s  phrase.  Then  the  trapper  gives  up  the 
use  of  bait,  and  carefully  conceals  his  traps  in  the 
paths  of  the  community. 

The  beaver  now  approaches  these  carefully,  and 
sometimes  springs  them  with  a stick  ; other  times, 
the  trap  is  turned  bottom  upwards,  by  the  same 
means  ; sometimes  he  drags  them  away  and  conceals 
them  in  the  mud.  When  this  occurs,  the  trapper 
gives  up  the  strife  of  ingenuity,  shoulders  his  traps 
and  leaves,  thus  confessing  that  he  is  not  “up  to 
beaver.” 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

FROM  DENVER  TO  CHEYENNE. 

Having  completed  our  travels,  and  given  as 
lengthy  a description  of  that  more  southern  section 
of  our  country  as  our  space  will  permit,  we  return 
again  to  this  place,  and  begin  our  more  northern 
wanderings.  Being  now  hardened  by  journey- 
ings  and  out  door  life,  in  pure  air,  we  can  easily  an- 
ticipate twenty  hours’  pleasure  under  warm  sun  and 
the  agreeable  coolness  of  evening,  and  the  most  bril- 
liant starlight,  equaled  only  in  any  other  land,  but 
never  surpassed.  The  skies  send  down  their  great- 
est beauty  through  the  thin,  pure  air  of  evening, 
new  and  very  interesting  to  those  who  come  here 
the  first  time. 

While  waiting  for  the  branch  road  to  be  completed 
from  Cheyenne  to  Denver,  we  travel  this  hundred 
miles  in  a stage  coach.  Could  it  be  done  wholly  by 
daylight  nothing  would  be  more  agreeable.  The 
road  lies  along  the  base  of  the  mountain  ranges, 
through  low  foot-hills,  over  rolling  plains,  divided 
occasionally  by  a vigorous  mountain  stream  mingling 
with  the  plain  below,  with  lines  of  trees  marking 
their  course  from  the  mountains  to  the  gently-sink- 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


176 

ing  thirsty  plains  towards  the  wide-reaching  eastern 
horizon.  On  the  west,  old  grim  mountains  topped 
with  rock  and  snow  ; to  the  east,  the  unending 
plains,  with  an  occasional  cabin,  and  scattered  herds 
of  cattle  and  a few  horses  to  relieve  its  majestic 
sameness  and  indicate  the  presence  of  civilized  set- 
tlement. There  is  a magnificent  out-doorness  in  the 
constant  change  of  scene,  which  no  smaller  or  different- 
ly made  up  landscape  can  give.  The  road  presents  to 
the  traveler  varied  and  constant  views  of  remarkable 
interest.  The  green  grass,  the  wild  flowers,  and  the 
many  other  ranges,  one  towering  high  behind  the 
other  until  the  great  central  is  boldly  brought  to 
view,  spread  along  with  perpetual  snow,  together 
with  the  ocean  of  plain,  the  several  large  streams 
coming  down  from  the  mountain  canyons,  mingling 
with  the  plain  below,  making  the  otherwise  barren- 
ness to  blossom  and  bring  forth  abundantly. 

About  every  ten  or  twelve  miles  we  change  horses; 
the  driver  announces  his  approach  to  a station  either 
by  day  or  night  with  a war-hoop,  which  “ must  be 
heard  to  be  appreciated.*  It  is  certainly  startling 
to  unaccustomed  ears.  Every  thirty  or  forty  miles  is 
a home  station  and  a “ square  meal.”  Dinner,  sup- 
per and  breakfast  are  very  much  alike  ; the  only 
real  difference  is  in  the  price.  But  we  missed,  quite 
willingly,  the  other  kind  ot  “ home  stations  ” we  en- 


FROM  DENVER  TO  CHEYENNE.  177 

countered  through  here  in  our  “ Across  the  Conti 
nent”  two  years  before.  The  accommodations  were 
largely  improved.  No  longer  a single-roomed  turf 
cabin  floor  such  as  nature  offers;  only  halfspoiled 
bacon;  miserable  poor  bread;  often  without  butter  or 
milk  or  any  kind  of  vegetables;  and  if  you  are  not 
pleased,  or  “ don't-  like  these,  help  yourself  to  mus- 
tard,” at  two  dollars  a meal. 

But  now  the  traveler  finds  here  a more  substantial 
home,  surrounded  with  good  home  supplies.  Occa- 
sionally we  sat  down  to  good  beef  and  ham,  a variety 
of  vegetables,  good  bread  and  butter,  pies,  canned 
fruits,  tea  and  coffee  and  other  luxuries  which  the 
country  afforded  for  half  the  former  price,  without 
the  edges  of  the  “ squareness”  of  the  meal  rubbed 
off.  The  first  rough  fight,  with  all  the  elements  of 
savage  nature,  had  given  place  to  more  comfortable 
accommodations. 

There  are  several  large  and  interesting  streams 
which  cross  our  road,  in  fording  one  of  which  we 
were  obliged  to  exercise  our  swimming  ability,  while 
those  who  could  not,  held  on  to  the  floating  coach. 
The  stream  was  very  much  swollen  from  the  melting 
snows  in  the  mountains.  The  lead  mules  when 
about  midway  of  the  stream  turned  their  faces  to- 
wards the  driver,  and  became  entangled  in  the  har- 
ness, and  the  wheel  team  so  much  so,  by  turning 


178 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


short  round  threw  the  stage  quite  over  on  one  side, 
and  the  body  of  it  nearly  filled  with  water,  so  that 
those  inside  found  it  quite  necessary  to  make  a very 
hasty  exit  outside  to  find  breathing  room.  As  the 
current  was  quite  strong,  all  were  carried  down 
s'.ream  some  distance  before  rea  ;hing  the  shore.  Soon, 
however,  all  were  out  without  injury  save  a thorough 
drenching;  but  the  hot  sun  and  unusually  diy  air 
very  soon  dried  wet  clothing.  The  team  and  stage 
out,  we  are  soon  on  our  way  again. 

With  this  little  experience  we  approached  the 
other  young  river  across  the  road  with  more  precau- 
tion, the  St.  Vrains.  Here  everything  was  removed 
from  the  stage,  piled  on  a little  flat  raft  and  ferried 
across  the  stream,  and  then  three  persons  at  a time. 
After  baggage  and  passengers  were  over  the  horses 
were  swam  over,  and  a long  rope  tied  to  the  end  of 
the  stage  tongue,  when  a team  drew  it  to  the  oppo- 
site shore. 

From  the  middle  of  June  to  August,  during  the 
beginning  of  the  warmest  weather,  when  the  accu- 
mulated snows  in  the  mountains  begin  to  melt,  these 
streams  become  much  enlarged,  and  are  quite  rapid, 
while  at  other  times  the)7  are  crossed  with  ease  and 
safety.  Sometimes  too  great  risks  are  taken. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

WYOMING  TERRITORY. 

This  comparatively  new  territory,  was  mostly  ta- 
ken from  the  southern  part  of  Montana,  and  is  about 
as  large  as  .Colorado,  and  lies  wholly  within  the  moun- 
tain ranges.  Bounded  by  the  Rocky  Mountains  oil 
the  west,  and  the  various  ranges  of  the  Black  Hills 
starting  from  its  southern  border,  penetrate  the  en- 
tire territory  to  the  northeast.  It  had  a few  years 
ago  an  infant  organization  as  a territory,  with  but  a 
very  little  population — more  to  give  a few  aspirants 
place  and  profit,  than  necessity.  It  had  neither  ag- 
riculture nor  mining;  consequently,  no  population 
previous  to  building  the  Railway,  which  has  now 
imparted  to  it  settlement,  and  some  notoriety. 

The  new  railroad  town  of  Cheyenne  is  the  only  set- 
tlement of  any  importance,  and  is  the  Capitol  of  the 
Territory,  situated  a little  out  from  the  mountains 
on  the  naked  plain,  six  thousand  feet  above  sea  level. 
It  has  already  assumed  an  air  of  permanency,  and 
taken  on  the  hopes  of  promise.  After  “ Hell,”  as  the 
end  town  of  the  railroad  was  called,  moved  on  it, 
was  a very  important  question,  whether  to  be  or  not 
to  be— whether  the  place  was  truly  anything  or  noth- 


lbO 


BEYOND  THUf  WEST. 


ing.  TI10  problem  is  now  settled  in  her  favor.  Sit- 
uated at  the  end  of  the  plains,  at  the  front  of  the 
mountains,  the  railroad  must  have  extensive  shop3 
here.  It  is  the  central  point  of  divergence  to  all  the 
southern  country,  and  the  railroad  to  Denver  makes 
its  connection  with  the  main  line  here.  Ultimately, 
the  St.  Louis  Pacific  Railroad  will,  as  Congress  has 
directed,  make  a connection  with  this  branch. 

Cheyenne  has  now  over  three  thousand  inhabitants 
who  are  settling  down  into  soberness  and  permanent 
work.  Two  daily  papers  are  asking  for  support. 
Some  good  church  buildings  are  already  erected. 
Permanent  buildings  of  brick  and  stone  have  already 
taken  the  place  of  canvass  and  boards  for  building 
materials. 

Hotels,  stores,  restaurantg  and  many  other  kinds  of 
business,  are  quite  largely  represented — ready  to 
respond  to  all  human  appetites,  tastes  and  needs. 
Most  of  this  territory  can  never  be  used  for  agri- 
cultural purposes,  on  account  of  its  unevenness.  Yet 
there  are  some  valleys  which  offer  very  good  advan- 
tages, though  quite  limited  for  so  large  a territory, 
that  will  support  at  least  a small  farming  population. 
The  North  Platte  crosses  the  entire  territory,  west 
and  east,  winds  through  the  mountains,  forming  some 
good  bottom  lands,  rich  and  fertile.  Farther  north 
are  the  Chevenne,  Powder  and  Big  Horn  Rivers,  and 


I 

WYOMIJSG  TERRITORY.  181 

their  tributaries  lowing  north  to  the  Yellow  Stone, 
watering  a large  portion  of  this  territory.  But  its 
past  history  is  mostly  that  of  the  hunter  and  trap- 
per; and  what  it  will  do.  or  is  capable  of  doing,  is 
among  the  unknown  things  of  the  future.  However, 
she  can  rely  upon  Northern  Colorado  for  a supply  of 
all  her  material  wants. 

The  large  and  productive  valleys  not  far  sou  k, 
watered  by  the  Oache*a  la  Pud  re,  St.  Vrains,  Big 
Thompson,  Little  Thompson,  Boulder  and  Clear 
Creek,  will  be  glad  to  find  a ready  marker,  at  Chey- 
enne for  their  large  surplus  produce.  We  would 
almost  be  criminally  guilty,  should  we  omit,  in  this 
place,  to  inform  a certain  class  of  lady  readers,  who 
sometimes  lecture  even  in  public,  (but  we  presume 
more  often  in  private,)  to  convince  their  law  makers 
that  they  are  not  clothed  with  “ inalienable  rights; ” 
that  their  would-be  master  bridles  their  liberty. 

The  philanthropic  Territorial  Legislature  of  Wy- 
oming, fully  appreciating  “ Women’s  Rights”  by  un- 
derstanding the  many  wrongs  they  were  obliged  to 
endure  in  all  this  great  and  otherwise  freedom-lov- 
ing land,  were  the  first  in  this  great  interest  to  ex- 
tend to  woman  the  elective  franchise.  The  law  here 
gives  both  sexes  the  same  rights  as  to  voting  ; and 
that  class  of  ladies  who  truly  wish  to  enjoy  such  priv- 
ileges, can  very  soon  (with  the  present  traveling  fa- 


182 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


cilities)  not  only  see.  but  be  landed  in  a short  time 
safely  in  this  promised  land  to  them,  where  they 
sit,  if  not  under  a fig  tree,  under  the  lengthened 
shadows  of  the  mountains,  in  the  fullness  of  that 
great  ballot  power  which  makes  and  unmakes  States 
and  Empires. 

Incidentally  we  would  also  say,  that  most  of  these 
humane  legislators  are  traveling  the  road  of  life 
alone,  as  is  also  most  of  the  large-hearted  men  in 
this  country;  and  those  single  ladies  who  come  here  to 
have  their  rights  (denied  them  at  home)  will,  on  com- 
ing here,  be  more  fully  persuaded  that  it  is  not  good 
always  to  live  alone,  more  especially  among  a class 
of  such  men  who  are  the  first  to  offer  them  all  the 
civil  and  political  privileges  they  possess.  The 
wholesome  laws  which  will  hereafter  govern  Wy- 
oming will  be,  no  doubt,  made  of  golden  material, 
and  will,  to  a large  extent,  make  up  for  her  rugged 
mountains  and  unproductive  surlace. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

MONTANA — MINING,  AGRICULTURAL  RESOUCES,  HISTORY 
AND  CLIMATE. 

This  territory  was  formerly  a part  of  Idaho,  but 
after  gold  was  discovered  here,  and  mining  towns 
grew  up,  and  settlement  began,  it  was  found  that 
the  immense  mountain  ranges  embraced  in  the  lim- 
its of  Idaho  formed  such  barriers  to  past  legis- 
lative communication  and  intercourse — the  East  from 
the  West — that  a division  of  the  territory  was  de- 
manded, and  granted  by  Congress  in  1864,  setting  off 
all  the  country  lying  east  of  the  summit  of  the  Bitter 
Root  Mountain  range,  and  erecting  the  present  terri- 
tory of  Montana,  the  largest  territory  of  the  United 
States,  covering  an  area  of  considerably  more  than 
201,000  square  miles.  Previous  to  1860,  when  gold 
was  discovered  here,  very  little  was  known  of  this 
immense  territory  except  as  the  mountain  man’s 
home,  for  hunting  and  trapping,  on  the  head  waters 
and  streams  of  the  several  branches  of  the  Missouri, 
whitfh,  like  the  limbs  of  a tree,  reach  in  all  direc- 
tions through  the  entire  territory,  giving  water  com- 
munication with  the  east  as  far  as  Fort  Benton,  just 
above  the  great  Missouri  Falls.  The  Yeil  »'v  Stone, 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


184 

together  with  its  large  tributaries,  water  the  south- 
ern section,  giving  the  miner  and  agriculturist  good 
advantages. 

Down  in  the  deep  valley  of  Grasshopper  Creek 
we  find  the  little  mining  town  of  Bannack,  so  name  1 
from  a savage  tribe.  Here  began  the  settlement  ol 
Montana  in  1861,  in  the  southwest  corner  of  the  ter- 
ritory. Placer  diggings  of  unusual  richness  were 
discovered  here,  giving  as  high  as  fifty  dollars  per 
day  to  the  man.  Excitement  ran  unbridled;  miners 
and  others  flocked  in  from  all  directions;  the  little 
gulch  soon  held  within  its  narrow  hive  two  thousand 
people.  The  place  soon  went  through  the  first  les- 
sons which  such  wild  mining  excitements  usually 
undergo:  drinking  saloons  without  number,  densely 
crowded;  gambling  tables  were  musical  with  ringing 
coin  and  shining  with  yellow  dust;  theaters,  which 
seem  to  be  indigenous  in  mining  regions,  were 
crowded;  whisky  fifty  cents  a drink,  and  champagne 
only  twelve  dollars  per  bottle.  But  these,  like  other 
mines  of  the  kind,  were  soon  exhausted — worked 
out — and  the  inhabitants  thereof  pass  on  to  another 
Eldorado. 

Now  the  place  is  a good  representation  of  the 
very  many  we  had  seen  in  other  mining  sections  of 
the  country,  a gloomy  succession  of  deserted  brush 
and  dirt  cabins  and  log  houses,  in  the  midst  of 


MONTANA. 


185 

which  stood  a gallows,  as  if  proud  of  the  good  ser- 
vice it  had  rendered  to  the  injured  people.  For  a 
long  time  almost  the  first  out-door  look  of  the  peo- 
ple was  towards  this  court  of  justice,  to  see  if  some 
reprobate  had  not  the  punishment  due  his  many 
crimes.  No  other  mining  country  suffered  so  se- 
verely by  desperate  bands  of  outlaws  as  this. 
Every  new  rich  mining  region  attracts  thieves  and 
murderers — brings  together  the  very  worst  elements, 
out  of  which  the  worst  kind  of  humanity  is  made, 
and  sooner  or  later  purges  itself  through  the  ter- 
rible vengeance  of  Lynch  law.  After  hundreds  of 
homicides  and  robberies  the  Vigilants  organized, 
captured  and  executed  many  of  the  worst  despera- 
does, and  sent  out  of  the  country  many  others. 
With  this  salutary  warning  to  the  surviving  cut- 
throats, life  and  property  became  a little  more  se- 
cure. The  County  Sheriff  who  erected  this  gallows 
was,Haman-like,  hung  upon  it  himself  for  murder 
and  robbery. 

Virginia  City,  the  present  metropolis  of  Montana, 
was  established  in  1862,  after  the  Bannack  mines 
were  worked  out.  It  is  the  largest  settlement  of 
the  territory,  sixty-five  miles  north  of  Bannack,  sit- 
uated in  Fairweather  gulch,  on  Alder  Creek,  and  lies 
along  the  irregular  winding  stream  for  a distance  of 
ten  miles.  This  gulch  has  yielded  for  a distance  of 


180  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

thirteen  miles  more  gold  than  any  other  place  of 
equal  extent  on  the  continent.  It  is  now  wholly  cut 
to  pieces  with  shafts,  ditches  and  tunnels,  and 
as  miners  say,  worked  out.  But  the  place  commands 
a large  Southern  trade,  and  also  from  the  surrounding 
country,  together  with  many  remunerative  quartz 
mines,  which  are  worked  by  companies,  giving  the 
place  more  permanency  and  prosperity  than  usually 
belong  to  mining  towns. 

One  hundred  and  twenty  miles  north  is  Helena,  the 
legitimate  offspring  of  Virginia,  as  is  Virginia  of  Ban- 
nack.  Unusual  rich  mines  were  prospected  here,  and 
the  town  of  Helena  at  once  grew  up.  The  productive 
mines,  and  the  general  business  of  the  county  East 
and  North,  enabled  it  to  put  on  the  air  of  perma- 
nence and  prosperity.  It  soon  became  the  supply 
town  for  th9  rich  placer  mines  of  the  Blackfoot 
country,  and  has,  no  doubt,  a prosperous  future  from 
its  geographical  position,  and  will  become  one  of  the 
principal  cities,  if  not  the  principal  city,  of  the  ter- 
ritory. 

Montana  has  produced  the  largest  nugget  of  gold 
yet  found  in  this  country,  and  has  yielded  more 
treasure  in  proportion  to  the  amount  of  work  done 
than  any  other  placer  mining  country  on  the  conti- 
nent, and  its  quartz  veins  promise  to  average  as 
well,  or  better,  than  those  of  many  other  regions. 


MONTANA.  187 

On  account  of  the  remoteness  and  inaccessibility  of 
the  country,  lying  far  north,  in  the  very  center  of 
the  mountains,  makes  labor  expensive  and  very 
difficult  to  transport  the  heavy  machinery  to  some 
of  the  interior  mines.  Many  companies  in  the 
East  have  erected  quartz  mills  in  various  districts, 
and  generally  are  being  well  rewarded. 

As  we  have  said,  Montana  covers  a large  terri- 
tory— eight  hundred  miles  from  east  to  west,  by 
about  three  hundred  from  north  to  south,  and  is  well 
named,  being  wholly  within  the  mountains.  It  con- 
tains several  large  basins,  and  unnumbered  valleys, 
through  which  flow  many  rivers  and  smaller  tribu- 
taries, in  which  the  permanent  settler  and  the  miner 
find,  and  build  up  homes  of  plenty  and  surround 
themselves  with  the  comforts  of  an  Eastern  home; 
and  getting  prices  for  their  products  which  would 
be  almost  fabulous  in  more  accessible  countries. 
While  snow  lies  heavy  upon  the  mountains,  cattle 
fatten  on  the  bunch  grass  of  the  valleys.  Summei 
and  winter  are  next-door  neighbors.  Here  we  often 
find  the  greenest  vegetation  and  deep  snow  less  than 
a mile  apart. 

Those  who  have  made  themselves  more  thorough, 
ly  acquainted  with  Montana,  agree  in  pronouncing 
it  a delightful  mountain  country,  containing  all  the 
social  and  political  elements  out  of  which  to  make  a 


188 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


great  commonwealth.  Wherever  the  precious  met- 
als are  largely  found,  either  in  rock  or  loose  earth 
they  soon  work  out  the  miracles  of  our  portable  civ 
ilization.  Towus  hastily  spring  up  in  the  wilderness, 
and  cities  among  the  mountains — taking  shining 
treasures  from  granite  hills,  and  rescuing  fruitful 
farms  from  lonely  valleys. 

Our  wild  mining  regions  are  ever  full  of  interest 
to  the  thoughtful  traveler.  Their  early  prospecters 
have  braved  savage  Indians,  and  equally  savage  na- 
ture ; endured  all  kinds  of  deprivations,  hard  work, 
long  banishment  from  the  comforts  of  civilized  life, 
home  and  fyiends.  That  spirit  who  can  see  nothing 
in  this  beyond  the  grasp  of  gold,  is  poor  indeed. 
With  a commendable  ambition  for  pecuniary  suc- 
cess, it  blends  that  marvelous  element  in  our  nation- 
al life,  which  has  in  a few  years  carried  our  freedom 
and  our  flag  from  the  central  continental  rivers  to 
the  Pacific. 

But  as  gold  hunters  are  not  alwa)s  to  be  credited, 
by  those  who  have  no  interest  in  their  favorite  re- 
gion, we  ignore  their  statements,  and  give  the  opin- 
ion of  one  who  had  no  other  business,  only  to  ex- 
plore it.  The  Report  of  Gov.  Stevens,  on  the  North- 
ern Pacific  Railroad,  to  start  from  St.  Paul  and  con- 
nect with  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Columbia,  at 
Fort  Walla-Walla,  the  reader  will  find  interesting  ; 


MONTANA. 


189 


*•  If  the  voyageur  tr  iveling  over  this  country,  what* 
ever  route  he  takes,  be  asked  what  sort  of  a country 
it  is,  he  will  tell  you,  an  excellent  country  for  trav- 
eling— wood,  water,  and  grass  everywhere.  But  the 
pine  of  the  Spokane  extends  nearly  to  its  mouth,  and 
for  some  miles  south  of  the  river.  The  Spokane  is 
the  name  of  the  main  stream  to  its  junction  with  the 
Coeiir  d’  Alene  river,  whence  its  name  is  given  to  a 
smaller  tributary  coming  from  the  north,  the  Coeur 
de’  Alene  being  the  main  stream.  One  of  the  most 
beautiful  features  of  the  Coeur  d’  Alene  river  and 
country  is  the  Coeur  d’  Alene  lake,  which  is  embo- 
somed in  the  midst  of  gently  sloping  hills,  covered 
with  a dense  forest  growth  ; the  irregularity  of  its 
form,  and  the  changing  aspect  of  the  country  about 
it,  makes  it  one  of  the  most  picturesque  scenes  in  the 
country.  The  Coeur  d’  Alene  river  itself  has  tribu- 
taries flowing  from  near  the  main  divide  of  the  Bit- 
ter Root,  the  most  considerable  of  which  is  the  St. 
Joseph’s  river,  which  has  a general  parallel  direc- 
tion with  the  Coeur  dJ  Alene,  and  is  about  twenty 
miles  south  of  it. 

“The  whole  valley  of  the  Coeur  d’  Alene  and  Spo- 
kane, is  well  adapted  to  settlement,  abounding  in 
timber  for  building  and  for  fires,  exceedingly  well 
watered,  and  the  greater  portion  of  the  land  arable. 
North  of  the  Great  Plain — that  is,  from  the  Spokane 


190  BEYOND  THE  WE8T. 

to  the  19th  parallel  east  of  the  main  Columbia — the 
country  for  the  most  part  is  densely  wooded,  although 
many  valleys  and  open  places  occur,  some  of  them 
now  occupied  by  settlers,  and  all  presenting  advan- 
tages for  settlement.  Down  Clarke’s  Fork  itself, 
there  are  open  patches  of  considerable  size  ; and  so 
on  the  Kootenai  River.  North  of  the  Spokane  is  a 
large  prairie,  Known  as  the  Coeur  d’Alene  prairie, 
through  which  the  trail  passes  from  Walla-Walla  to 
Lake  Pend  d’  Oreille.  This  prairie  contains  some  six 
hundred  square  miles.  ******** 

“ It  is  the  country,  therefore,  between  these  two 
great  backbones  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  I 
now  wish  to  describe  ; and  especially  will  I first  call 
attention  to  that  beautiful  region  whose  streams, 
flowing  from  the  great  semicircle  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains before  referred  to,  pass  through  a delightful 
grazing  and  arable  country,  and  find  their  confluence 
in  the  Bitter  Root  River,  opposite  Hell  Gate. 

“ From  Big  Hole  Prairie,  on  the  south,  flows  the 
Bitter  Root  River,  which  has  also  a branch  from  the 
southwest,  up  which  a trail  is  much  used  by  Indians 
and  voyageurs  passing  to  theNez  Perce  country  and 
Walla-Walla.  The  Bitter  Root  Valley,  above  Hell- 
Gate  River,* is  about  eighty  miles  long,  and  from 
three  to  ten  in  width,  having  a direction  north  and 
south  from  the  sources  of  the  Bitter  Root  River  to 


MONTANA. 


191 


its  junction  with  the  Hell-Gate.  Besides  the  outlet 
above  mentioned,  (omitted  here,)  towards  the  Koos- 
kooskia,  which  is  the  most  difficult,  it  has  an  excellent 
wagon-road  communication  at  its  head,  by  the  Big 
Hole  Pass  to  Jefferson’s  Fork,  Fort  Hall,  and  other 
points  southward,  as  well  as  by  the  Hell-Gate  routes 
to  the  eastward.  From  its  lower  end,  at  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Hell-Gate,  it  is  believed  the  Bitter  Root 
River  is,  or  can  be  made,  navigable  for  small  steam- 
ers for  long  distances,  at  least,  thus  affording  an  ea- 
sy outlet  to  its  products  in  the  natural  direction. 
Hell-Gate  (Pass)  is  the  debauche  of  all  the  consider- 
able streams  which  flow  into  the  Bitter  Root,  eighty- 
five  miles  below  its  source  at  the  Big  Hole  divide. 
The  distance  from  Hell-Gate  to  its  junction  with  the 
Bitter  Root  is  fifteen  miles.  It  must  not  be  .under- 
stood from  the  term  Hell-Gate,  that  here  is  a nar- 
row passage  with  perpendicular  bluffs  ; on  the  con- 
trary, it  is  a wide,  open  and  easy  pass,  in  no  case  be- 
ing less  than  half  a mile  wide,  and  the  banks  not 
subject  to  overflow.  At  Hell-Gate  is  the  junction  of 
two  streams  ; the  one  being  the  Hell-Gate  River, 
and  the  other  the  Big  Blackfoot  River.  The  Hell- 
Gate  itself  drains  the  semicircle  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, from  parallel  45  deg.  45  min.,  to  parallel  46 
deg.  30  min.,  a distance  on  the  divide  of  eighty  miles. 
The  upper  waters  of  this  river  connect  with  Wisdom 


r 


192  BEYOND  THE  ’VEST. 

River,  over  a low  and  easy  divide,  across  which 
Lieut.  Mullan  with  his  party  moved  on  Dec.  31, 1853. 

“ Moving  down  this  valley  fifteen  miles,  we  come 
to  a most  beautiful  prairie  known  as  the  Deer  Lodge, 
a great  resort  for  game,  and  a favorite  resting  place 
for  Indians — mild  through  the  winter,  and  afford- 
ing inexhaustible  grass  the  year  round.  There  is 
a remarkable  curiosity  in  this  valley — the  Boiling 
Springs — which  have  been  described  by  Lieut.  Mul- 
lan. This  Deer  Lodge  Prairie  is  watered  by  many 
streams  ; those  coming  from  the  east,  having  their 
sources  also  in  the  Rocky  Mountain  divide,  and  those 
coming  from  the  west  in  the  low,  rolling  and  open 
country  intervening  between  the  Hell-Gate  and  Bit- 
ter Root  Rivers. 

“ Ti^e  Little  Blackfoot,  which  has  been  referred  to, 
is  one  of  the  most  important  streams  on  the  line  of 
communication  through  this  whole  mountain  region. 
It  has  an  open,  well-grassed  and  arable  valley,  with 
sweet  cotton-wood  on  the  streams,  and  pine  general- 
ly on  the  slopes  of  the  hills  ; but  the  forests  are  quite 
open,  and  both  on  its  northern  and  southern  slopes 
there  is  much  prairie  country.  The  Little  Blackfoot 
River  furnishes  two  outlets  to  the  country  to  the  east. 
It  was  the  southern  one  of  these  passes,  connecting 
I with  the  southern  tributary  of  the  Prickly  Pear 
Creek,  that  Mr.  Tinkham  passed  over  in  1853,  and 


MONTANA.  193 

determined  a profile  of'  the  route.  Ic  was  also  pass- 
ed over  by  Lieut.  Mullan  on  his  trip  from  the  Mus- 
cle Shell,  in  1853  ; but  the  northern  pass  was  first 
discovered  by  Lieut.  Mullan  when  he  passed  over  it 
with  a wagon  from  Fort  Benton,  in  March,  1854. 
There  is  another  tributary  of  the  Little  Blackfoot 
flowing  into  it  below  the  point  where  Lieut.  Mullan 
struck  it  with  his  wagon,  which  may  furnish  a good 
pass  to  the  plains  of  the  Missouri.  Its  advantages 
and  character  were  described  to  him  by  the  Indians. 

“Passing  down  the  Hell  Gate  River,  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Little  Blackfoot,  we  come  to  several 
tributaries  flowing  from  the  south.  Flint  Creek,  one 
of  them,  is  a large  stream,  up  the  valley  of  which 
there  is  a short  route  to  the  Bitter  Root  Valley,  in  a 
direction  west-southwest  from  its  junction  with  Hell- 
Gate.  On  these  rivers  are  prairies  as  large  as  the 
Deer  Lodge  Prairie,  and  the  whole  country  between 
the  Deer  Lodge  Prairie  due  west  to  the  Bitter  Root 
Valley  consists  of  much  more  of  prairie  than  of  for- 
est land. 

“ The  Hell-Gate  River  is  thus  seen  to  be  one  hun- 
dred and  thirty  miles  long,  flowing  for  sixty  miles 
through  the  broad  and  fertile  Deer  Lodge  Prairie, 
which  is  estimated  to  contain  eight  hundred  square 
miles  of  arable  land.  Then,  taking  a direction  more 
transverse  to  the  mountain,  opens  its  valley,  contin- 


194 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


ues  from  two  to  five  miles  wide,  until  its  junction 
with  tbe  Big  Blackfoot,  at  Hell  Gate  ; alter  whicn.it 
widens  out  to  unite  with  the  valley  of  the  Bitter 
Root.  On  this  part  of  it  there  are  at  least  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  square  miles  of  fine  arable  land,  and 
as  much  grazing  prairie  on  the  adjoining  hills.  * 
“Passing  from  the  Hell-Gate  to  the  Flathead  Riv- 
er, we  cross  over  this  spur  by  a low  divide,  going 
through  the  Coriacan  defile,  and  coming  upon  the 
waters  of  the  Jocko  River.  The  height  of  this  di- 
vide, above  the  Hell  Gate,  is  560  feet;  and  above 
the  Flathead  River,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Jocko,  is 
650  feet.  From  this  divide,  a view  of  surpassing 
beauty,  looking  northward,  is  presented  to  the  be- 
holder. He  sees  before  him  an  extraordinarily  well- 
grassed,  well- watered  and  inviting  country.  On  the 
east  are  the  divides,  clothed  with  pine,  separating 
the  Jocko  and  its  tributaries  from  the  streams  run- 
ning into  the  Big  Blackfoot,  and  into  Flathead  Lake. 
To  the  North,  the  Flathead  Lake,  twenty-five  miles 
long  and  six  miles  wide,  is  spread  open  before  you 
with  extensive  prairies  beyond  ; and  on  the  West, 
sloping  back  from  the  banks  of  the  Flathead  River, 
a mingled  prairie  and  forest  country  is  seen.  Here, 
in  a compact  body,  is  one  of  the  most  promising 
countries  in  this  whole  region,  having  at  least  2,000 
square  miles  of  arable  land. 


MONTANA.  195 

t I 

Below  the  Lake,  the  Flathead  River  flows,  follow-  i 
ing  its  windings  some  fifty  miles,  to  its  junction  with 
the  Bitter  Root,  where  the  united  streams  assume 
the  name  of  Clark’s  Fork.  In  this  distance  it  is  100 
to  200  yards  wide,  and  so  deep  as  to  be  fordable 
with  difficulty  at  low  water,  its  depth  being  three 
feet  in  the  shallowest  places.  Its  current  is  rapid,  i 
and  there  is  a fall  of  fifteen  feet,  five  miles  below  the 
lake.  About  eighteen  miles  below  the  lake,  it  le- 
ceives  a considerable  stream  from  the  northwest, 
called  Hot  Spring  Creek.  In  its  valley,  and  around 
it,  is  also  a large  extent  of  fine  land.  Nearly  oppo- 
site, a small  stream  runs  in  from  the  East,  and  an- 
other from  the  same  side  ten  miles  below,  by  which 
there  are  routes  to  the  upper  part  of  Big  Blackfoot 
Valley.  None  of  the  branches  of  Clarke’s  Fork  above 
the  junction,  can  be  considered  navigable;  but  the 
river  itself,  (Flathead,)  with  the  exception  of  the 
rapids  and  fails  below  the  lake,  which  may  be  pass- 
ed by  a short  canal,  gives  a navigation  of  at  least  I 
seventy-five  miles  to  the  head  of  Flathead  Lake. 
******** 

About  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles  above  the 
mouth  of  Clarkes  Fork,  is  the  Pend  d'Oreille  orKa- 
lispelurn  Lake,  which  is  a beautiful  sheet  of  water  j 
about  forty  five  miles  in  length,  formed  by  the  dila* 
tion  of  the  river.  The  river  is  sluggish  and  wide 


196  BEYOND  THE  -WEST. 

for  some  twenty  six  miles  below  the  lake,  where  rap- 
ids occur  during  low  water.  Steamboats  could  as- 
cend from  this  point  to  a point  nine  miles  above  the 
lake,  or  eighty  miles  in  all.  At  high  water  they 
could  ascend  much  farther.  Between  the  Cabinet 
(twenty- five  miles  above  the  lake)  and  a point  seven- 
ty-five miles  below  the  lake,  (a  total  distance  of  one 
hundred  and  forty  miles,)  the  only  obstacle  which 
occurs  is  where  the  river  is  divided  by  rocky  islands, 
with  a fall  of  six  and  a-half  feet  on  one  side.  The 
valley  of  Clarke’s  Fork  is  generally  wide,  arable,  and 
inviting  settlement,  though  much  of  it  is  wooded. 

* * * * * * * * 

From  the  divide  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  to  the 
divide  of  the  Bitter  Root  Mountains,  there  is  an  in- 
termediate region,  over  one-third  of  which  is  a cul- 
tivable area  ; and  a large  portion  of  it  is  prairie 
country,  instead  of  a wooded  or  mountain  country. 
The  following  estimate  gives  in  detail  the  areas  of 
arable  land,  so  far  as  existing  information  enables  it 
to  be  computed  : In  the  region  watered  by  the  Bit- 
ter Root  River  and  its  tributaries,  not  including  Hell- 
Gate,  the  prairie  region  may  be  estimated  at  three 
thousand  square  miles;  in  that  watered  by  the  Hell- 
Gate  and  its  tributaries,  including  the  whole  country 
south  and  west  to  the  Bitter  Root, but  not  including 
the  Big  Blackfoot,  there  is  a prairie  region  of  two 


MONTANA. 


197 


thousand  five  hundred  square  miles  ; in  that  water- 
ed by  the  Big  Blackfoot  and  its  tributaries,  the  prai- 
rie region  is  one  thousand  three  hundred  square 
miles.  The  country  watered  by  the  Flathead  River, 
down  to  its  junction  with  the  Bitter  Root,  and  thence 
down  Clarke’s  Fork  to  the  Cabinet,  has  a prairie 
region  of  two  thousand  five  hundred  square  miles. 
The  country  watered  by  the  Kootenai  has  two  thou- 
sand square  miles  of  prairie.  Thus  we  have,  in 
round  numbers,  eleven  thousand  three  hundred 
square  miles  of  prairie  land.  The  whole  area  of 
the  mountain  region,  (from  the  divide  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains  to  the  divide  of  the  Bitter  Root,  and  from 
45  deg.  30  min.  to  49  deg.)  is  about  thirty  thousand 
square  miles  ; and  it  will  be  a small  estimate  to  put 
the  arable  land  of  the  prairie  and  the  forest  at  twelve 
thousand  square  miles.  Thus,  the  country  in  the 
Forks  of  the  Flathead  and  Bitter  Root,  stretching 
away  east  above  the  Blackfoot  Canyon,  is  mostly  ta- 
ble land,  well  watered  and  arable  ; and  on  all  these 
tributaries — the  Bitter  Root,  the  Hell-Gate,  the  Big 
Blackfoot,  the  Jocko,  the  Hot  Spring  River,  the  Ma- 
ple River,  and  the  Lou-Lou  Fork  itself — the  timber- 
land  will  be  found  unquestionably  better  than  the 
prairie  land.  It  will  not  bo  in  the  immediate  bot- 
tom, or  valley  of  the  river  where  farmers  will  find 
their  best  locations,  but  on  the  smaller  tributaries 


198  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

some  few  miles  above  their  junction  with  the  main 
stream.  The  traveler  passing  up  these  rivers,  and 
seeing  a little  tributary  breaking  out  in  the  v;dley, 
will,  on  going  up  it,  invariably  come  to  an  open  and 
beautiful  country.  The  observer  who  has  passed 
through  this  country  often;  who  has  had  with  him 
intelligent  men  who  have  lived  in  it  long;  who  un- 
derstands intercourse  with  the  Indians,  and  knows 
how  to  verify  information  which  they  give  him,  will 
be  astonished  at  the  conclusions  which  he  will  reach 
in  regard  to  the  agricultural  advantages  of  this  coun- 
try, and  it  will  not  be  many  years  before  the  progress 
of  settlements  will  establish  its  superiority  as  an  ag- 
ricultural region.” 

Tl  ie  prediction  of  the  late  distinguished  explorer 
is  about,  to  be  realized,  more  rapidly  perhaps  than 
he  had  ever  contemplated.  Though  owing  its  rapid 
settlement  to  the  discovery  of  mines  of  gold  and 
silver,  Montana  Territory  is  destined  to  retain  a 
large  proportion  of  its  adventurous  population,  and 
to  invite  permanent  settlers  by  the  greatness  of 
her  varied  resources,  for  besides  the  precious  met- 
als, her  valleys  abound  in  the  more  common  and 
useful  materials  of  marble,  limestone,  cinnabar,  cop- 
per, sandstone,  lead,  plumbago,  iron,  coal,  and  the 
best  of  timber  for  lumbering  purposes.  Add  to 
these  a most  healthful  and  delightful  climate,  and  the 


MONTANA.  199 

most  agreeable  scenery,  and  there  is  nothing  left  to 
desire  which  should  constitute  a happy  home  for 
thousands  of  hardy  emigrants. 

THE  CLIMATE  OF  MONTANA. 

The  first  remark  of  those  who  have  not  properly 
considered  the  matter,  is,  that  a railroad  so  far  north 
would  be  in  winter  obstructed  by  snows,  which  the 
real  facts  contradict,  and  will  convince  the  intelli- 
gent reader  that  of  two  roads,  the  Central  and  the 
Northern,  the  latter  would  not  be  as  liable  to  snow 
blockade  as  the  former.  The  altitude  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains  in  the  latitude  of  Montana  is  two  thou- 
sand feet  less  than  it  is  on  the  line  of  the  Central 
Road.  The  climate  is  mod-fied  and  softened  by  the 
warm  winds  that  come  from  the  warm  plains  of  the 
southwest  over  the  hot  springs  of  a large  section  of 
volcanic  country  in  its  southern  part.  Another 
modifying  circumstance  is  the  isothermal  line  which 
sweeps  across  it  and  takes  its  course  westwardly  to 
Puget’s  Sound,  which  has  an  annual  temperature  of 
50  deg.,  thus  settling  the  question  of  climate.  There 
is,  however,  another  fact  in  this  connection  in  favor 
of  Montana.  If  the  reader  has  noted  the  fact,  he 
has  observed  that  the  hunters  and  trappers  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  never  wintered  down  or  about  the 
South  Pass,  but  their  favorite  wintering  grounds 
were  upon  the  Yellow  Stone,  or  upon  some  of  the 


200  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

affluents  of  the  Missouri,  nearly  east  of  the  Pass, 
selected  for  the  Northern  Road.  It  was  here  the 
mountain  men  found  grass  and  sweet  cotton  wood 
lor  their  animals,  and  it  was  in  this  more  northern 
country  where  game  resorted  for  food  during  the 
winter  snows  in  large  herds. 

At  Fort  Benton,  in  Northern  Montana,  noted  for 
being  a trading  post  of  the  American  Fur  Com- 
pany, which  has  an  elevation  of  2,662  feet  above 
sea  level,  their  horses  and  cattle,  of  which  they  had 
large  numbers,  were  never  housed  or  fed  in  winter, 
but  obtained  their  own  living  without  difficulty. 
The  facts  hardly  sustain  the  general  impression  that 
the  winter  in  this  region  has  more  snow,  and  is 
colder  tnan  in  the  more  central  ranges  farther 
south. 

I 

I 

! 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

IDAHO — SHOSHONEE  FALLS— BOISE  CITY — IDAHO  CITY 
— OWYHEE  QUARTZ  MILLS — CHARACTERISTIC 
FEATURES  OF  THE  COUNTRY,  <fcC. 

This  territory,  since  the  division  which  now  com- 
prises Idaho,  (an  Indian  word,  signifying  “ the  gem 
of  the  mountains”)  lies  wholly  on  the  Pacific  side  of 
the  RocKy  Mountains,  the  water-shed  forming  its 
easterly  boundary,  and  dividing  the  head  waters  of 
tne  Columbia  from  the  head  waters  ot  the  Missouri. 
The  road  from  Salt  Lake  City  is  the  same  to  Mon- 
tana or  Idaho  as  to  Bear  River  Junction,  a distance  of 
one  hundred  and  forty  miles.  There  roads  branch 
northwest  and  northeast.  Taking  the  left  branch, 
the  traveler  very  soon  finds  himself  in  Idaho,  sur- 
rounded with  vast  rolling  wastes  of  sand  deserts, 
sage  brush  and  volcanic  debris  scattered  profusely 
over  the  country.  The  old  granite  rocks  had  been 
both  literally  and  truly  turned  inside  out  by  subter- 
ranean forces  far  down  in  the  deep  bowels  of  the 
earth.  This  portion  of  the  territory  is  interesting 
only  for  the  magnificently  broken  surface  and  unin- 
habitableness, dreary  and  forbidding  for  the  uses  of 
civilized  life.  A few  half-starved,  degraded  Utes 


202  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

still  wander  about  this  forbidding  tract,  sometimes 
painted  in  true  old  Indian  style  with  pulverized  red 
chalk,  giving  them  a more  hideous  and  repulsive 
appearance  than  savages  generally. 

The  stage  stations  are  built  of  blocks  of  lava 
pierced  with  holes,  for  the  use  of  arms  to  repel  In- 
dian warfare.  Through  all  this  great  country  every 
man’s  cabin  is  truly  his  castle,  and  he  himself  must 
defend  it. 

The  comas-plant,  with  little  blue  flowers  and  small 
brown  leaf,  with  a bulb  like  an  onion,  is  found  here, 
which  the  Indians  dig  and  subsist  on  during  the 
winter.  Some  of  the  ravines  were  quite  covered 
with  a plant  called  kinnikinic,  a species  of  the  real 
tobacco  plant,  which,  in  its  young  growth,  it  resem- 
bles largely.  The  Indians  and  others,  when  out  of 
other  tobacco,  use  this  as  a very  good  substitute  for 
the  cultivated  kind;  when  dried  and  pulverized,  it 
has  the  aroma  of  the  noxious  weed.  Some  distance 
east  of  the  road  is  the  great  Comas  prairie,  rich  and 
easy  of  irrigation  from  the  mountain  which  encloses 
it,  as  the  Mahlad  River  threads  and  like  Hum- 
boldt and  Carson,  after  running  hundreds  of  miles, 
sinks  like  the  waters  of  Damascus. 

We  were  anxious  to  visit  Shoshonee  Falls,  of 
Snake  River,  but  four  miles  west  of  the  road  station, 
which  few  white  men  had  seen  previous  to  1867,  and 


IDAHO. 


203 

is  two  hundred  and  sixty-five  miles  from  Salt  Lake 
City.  The  Indians  call  it  Poh-chu-lak-a — the  gift 
of  the  Great  Spirit,  and,  like  the  red  pipe  stone 
quarry,  was  too  sacred  a place  to  be  contaminated 
by  white  men;  consequently  their  vigilance  in  guard- 
ing it.  A party  had  been  to  see  it  a short  time  be- 
fore, accompanied  by  9,  few  soldiers  at  the  station. 
One  of  these  consented  to  accompany  us.  The  six 
miles  were  made  in  an  hour  and  a half  over  sand  and 
sage  brush.  The  vapor  arising  from  it  can  be  seen 
from  the  road  when  there  is  no  wind.  In  this  pure 
morning  air,  where  the  discharge  of  a pistol  will 
make  a report  as  great  as  a small  cannon  in  low 
country  atmosphere,  sound  in  this  high  mountain 
country  is  conveyed  as  though  made  by  a silver- 
tongued  bell  hung  high  up  in  the  ethereal  dome. 

We  started  in  early  morning,  and  had  not  pro- 
ceeded far  before  the  low,  deep  roar  of  the  falls  were 
heard,  and  pillars  (not  of  a great  Roman  Pantheon) 
were  rising  up,  but  of  clouds,  or  rather  the  blending 
of  them  from  the  troubled  waters  down  in  the  deep 
caverns  of  rock.  The  mirage,  before  the  sun  is  up, 
is  as  much  to  be  admired  as  the  waterfall,  a mirage 
more  wonderful  than  any  I had  witnessed  in  all  my 
desert  and  mountain  wanderings,  surpassing  an  or- 
dinary desert  mirage  as  much  as  the  splendors  of  an 
arctic  night  excel  the  clouds  of  a summer  day.  We 


204 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


g tzed  and  admired  the  clouds  of  vapor  as  they  rolled 
over  and  through  each  other,  changing  in  form  and 
color,  blending  more  than  the  colors  of  the  rainbow; 
but  a matchless  combination  of  the  roughest,  to  the 
most  refined  shades,  celestial  islands  floating  in  mid 
air.  As  we  were  lost  in  admiration,  the  eastern 
horizon  began  to  take  on  yellow  and  purple;  the 
great  round  faced  luminary,  imparting  light  and 
warmth,  began  to  send  her  streams  of  use  and  beaut}' 
between  two  sentinel  mountains  on  the  east,  the 
“Gateway  of  the  Day”  here  truly;  but  we  had  an- 
other last  view,  and  all  evaporated  like  a fascinating 
dream.  Could  an  artist  have  placed  it  upon  can- 
vass? But  who  can  “gild  refined  gold  or  paint  the 
lilly  ? Who  can  paint  the  mountains,  the  seas  or  the 
skies?”  Who  will  presume  to  fix  limits  upon  the 
wonders  of  universal  and  prolific  nature,  or  place 
boundaries  upon  the  Divine  love  which  permeates 
and  suffuses  it? 

Going  down  some  distance  upon  a second  precipice, 
we  were  where  a good  view  of  the  falls  and  river 
could  be  had.  Looking  down  about  five  hundred 
feet,  the  river  looked  as  peaceful  as  a summer  sun. 
Not  far  above,  the  falls  are  in  full  view.  The  stream 
is  divided  into  several  channels  by  small  islands  of 
rock  coming  together,  and  uniting  their  strength 
before  taking  the  swift,  dizzy  plunge  of  at  least  two 


IDAHO. 


205 


hundred  and  fifty  feet  into  the  foaming  caldron  un- 
der quick  moving  clouds  of  spray.  The  fall  itself 
takes  the  appearance  of  one  unbroken  sheet  of  white 
satin,  interspersed  with  myriads  of  shining  drops; 
a fall  of  snow  set  full  of  jewels.  The  real  depth  of 
the  chasm  belittles  all  human  efforts,  from  which 
rises  such  pearly  mist,  biding  from  mortal  eyes  the 
secrets  of  its  boiling  heart.  This  fall  is  seldom 
equaled.  Not  all  hight,  like  Yosemite,  nor  all  breadth 
and  power  like  Niagara  and  the  Great  Falls  of  the 
Missouri,  but,  to  some  extent,  combines  the  three. 
It  has  excavated  for  itself  a channel  deep  down 
in  the  primary  rock,  very  much  like  Trenton 
Falls,  of  which  I was  somewhat  reminded.  Could 
these  several  falls  be  put  together  and  made  one, 
with  an  immense  caldron  for  a body  of  water  to  fall 
into,  as  when  the  creek  is  high  the  resemblance 
would  be  good  by  changing  the  slate  to  granite. 
Trees  of  heavy  foliage  hang  over  the  deep-worn 
chasm,  some  small  ones  on  the  sides  of  the  preci- 
pice, driving  their  fibrous  toes  into  every  little 
crevice,  and  almost  into  the  very  rock,  to  obtain  a 
scanty  subsistence. 

Perhaps  the  old  Indian  Chief  Shcshonee,  after 
whom  the  falls  were  named,  might,  if  he  were  liv- 
ing, give  its  earlier  life,  while  he  was  taking  vapor 
baths  and  smoking  his  pipe  by  its  magic-tor.ed  mu- 


206 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


sic.  About  twenty-five  miles  down  the  river,  in  a 
deep  canyon,  with  volcanic  walls  three  hundred  feet 
high,  there  pours  out  through  the  side  some  distance 
from  the  bottom  twenty  or  more  large  streams,  some 
as  large  round  as  a common  barrel,  lashed  into  spray 
as  they  leap  down  jutting  rocks  at  the  bottom,  form- 
ing a stream  nearly  a hundred  feet  wide — sup- 
posed to  be  the  resurrection  of  the  Mahlad  River — 
which  was  buried  while  alive  in  the  Comas  plain 
fifty  miles  away. 

Boise  City,  located  at  the  head  of  navigation 
through  the  Columbia  and  Snake  rivers,  is  the  capi- 
tal as  well  as  the  commercial  metropolis  of  Idaho. 
It  is  a trading,  not  a mining  town,  in  the  level  val- 
ley of  Boise  river — a valley  fifty  miles  long  by  about 
six  wide.,  with  agricultural  pretensions.  It  will  grow 
wheat,  barley,  and  all  the  variety  of  vegetables, 
enough  to  supply  a large  population.  The  broad, 
level,  treeless  streets,  with  their  low  warehouses, 
little  cottages,  log  cabins  and  stage  coaches,  wagons, 
speculators,  miners,  farmers  and  Indians,  reminds 
one  of  a border  settlement,  a kind  of  portable  car- 
avansary, not  uncommon  along  the  borders  of  civil- 
ization. 

The  principal  mining  centers  and  farming  inter- 
ests of  Idaho  are  located  within  a hundred  miles  of 
Boise,  which  secures  to  it  the  monopoly  of  the  gen- 
eral business  of  the  territory. 


Boise  Basin,  northeast  ninety  miles,  is  a mountain 
bowl  twenty-five  miles  in  diameter,  and  contains 
some  good  quartz-bearing  ledges,  but  is  principally 
known  as  one  of  the  richest  placer  mining  districts. 
This  saucer-like  basin  seemed  to  have  been  the  re- 
ceptacle for  the  shining  gold,  coming  along  distance 
in  all  directions  through  the  mountain  ranges,  which 
gave  it  unusual  richness. 

A few  miles  from  here,  in  the  mountains,  is  Idaho 
City,  containing  a large  mining  population,  and  the 
center  of  several  rich  quartz  districts,  with  mills  for 
the  reduction  of  the  ore,  the  cause  and  life  of  the 
settlement,  giving  to  the  place  permanence  and  fu- 
ture prosperity.  The  richest  lead  mining  district 
yet  discovered  in  the  territory  is  seventy-five  miles 
southwest  of  Owyhee,  itself  a straggling  town,  or 
rather  towns,  among  the  mountain  tops;  but  the 
district  is  extensive,  and  embraces  some  of  the 
richest  leads  and  many  gulch  mining  districts.  It 
has  been  more  largely  developed,  being  more  acces- 
sible  and  the  first  discovered.  The  placers  were 
worked  out,  but  the  place  is  so  rich  in  quartz  that 
she  can  afford  to  lose  the  other  kind  of  mining.  But 
few  districts  in  any  of  the  mountains  are  more  won- 
derfully piled  up  and  broken  by  subterranean  fires 
than  this,  which,  no  doubt,  is  the  cause  of  its  un- 
usually rich  mountain  mines. 


208 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


Ruby  City  lies  nearly  in  the  bottom  of  a canyon, 
with  overlooking  mountain  summits  of  one  and  two 
thousand  feet.  War  Eagle  stands  sentinel  over  all 
these  peaks,  and  is  the  richest,  and  in  some  respects 
the  most  wonderful  deposit  of  ore  yet  discovered  in 
ail  our  mining  country.  This  mountain,  like  the 
great  Comstock  Lode  in  Nevada,  will  add  millions  of 
dollars  to  the  world’s  treasure. 

Large  quartz  mills  are  erected  here,  owned  by  com- 
panies in  New  York,  Boston  and  Providence.  The 
first  mill,  put  in  working  order,  cost  seventy  thou- 
sand dollars,  and  in  less  than  its  first  fifty  working 
days,  yielded  ninety  thousand  dollars  in  bullion. 

The  leads  contain  both  gold  and  silver — usually, 
about  one  quarter  silver.  Mills  that  can  work  ore 
up  to  within  twenty  per  cent,  of  what  it  will  assay, 
is  considered  good  work  in  any  kind  of  ore.  This 
ore  is  easily  reduced;  a single  stamp  will  crush  from 
two  to  two  and  a half  tons  per  day.  Some  China- 
men find  remunerative  employment,  by  panning  out 
the  “ tailings,”  after  the  mills  have  exhausted  their 
skill  to  extract  the  sold  from  it.  Many  grinding 
processes  and  laboratory  theories  have  been  gotten 
up  which  worked  wonders,  when  on  exhibition  in 
New  York,  but  practically  in  the  mines  are  worthless. 
Idaho  machinery  is  from  California.  San  Francisco- 
made  quartz  mills,  a specialty  from  the  first,  are  far 


IDAHO. 


209 

in  advance  in  all  improvements  which  are  properly 
a success,  of  any  made  east  of  the  mountains. 

Here,  as  in  all  our  large  quartz  regions,  the  larger 
portion  of  capital  invested  has  been  lost  through  in* 
competency,  recklessness  and  bad  management,  by 
buying  worthless  mines  at  ruinous  prices,  and  ex- 
pending immense  sums  in  the  construction  of  mills, 
before  ascertaining  whether  they  had  paying  ore  to 
justify  the  very  heavy  expenditure.  The  high  hopes 
and  golden  dreams  of  very  many  good  companies 
have  been  badly  wrecked  on  these  before  uuheeded 
and  unguarded  rocks  in  the  raining  business. 

But  enterprises,  conducted  with  as  much  caution 
and  careful  judgment  as  is  exercised  in  any  other  suc- 
cessful, legitimate  business,  will  generally  be  large- 
ly rewarded.  Quartz  raining,  however,  has  now  on- 
ly lived  through  a few  ot  its  infant  years  ; but  with 
i ts  good  start,  will  grow  year  by  year,  until  it  is  one 
of  the  leading  national  interests,  and  holds  out  favor- 
able inducements  to  the  discriminating  use  of  indus- 
try and  capital. 

The  earl}  history  and  discovery  of  gold  in  Idaho 
is  that  of  Montaua.  Far  away  from  civilization  in 
unknown  mountains — amid  hostile  Indians — the  first 
prospecters  pushed  steadily  forward,  for  many  long 
and  lonely  months,  alter  the  first  discovery  of  gold 
in  1802.  After  its  richness  was  demonstrated,  the 


210 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


region  labored  under  unusual  disadvantages,  being 
so  very  remote  for  all  business  purposes,  and  no 
mountain  roads  over  which  to  transport  machinery 
requisite  for  its  development.  But  time,  and  the 
prospect  of  getting  a “ golden  fleece/7  (although  ma- 
ny went  out  after  wool  and  came  back  shorn,)  the 
obstacles  have  been  overcome,  and  Idaho  is  one  of 
our  best  miueral  States ; but  can  never  be  an  agri- 
cultural region,  on  account  of  its  remarkable  uneven- 
ness and  want  of  water  for  irrigation.  But  its  grazing 
capacity  is  very  good.  Herds  of  cattle  and  sheep 
will  find  an  abundance  of  nutritious  grass  at  all  sea- 
sons of  the  year.  Though  the  winters  are  long,  and 
sometimes  severe,  yet  the  average  temperature  is 
milder  than  that  of  Illinois.  The  climate  is  healthy, 
and  softened  by  the  milder  breezes  coming  in  from 
the  Pacific,  which  is  the  case  with  much  of  the  coun- 
try lyfng  west  o**  the  Rocky  Mountains. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

EASTERN  OREGON  — SOIL  — CLIMATE  — RESOURCES  AND 
GENERAL  FEATURED 

A day’s  stage-ride  from  Boise  City,  the  tourist 
crosses  the  Snake  River  into  Oregon,  without  notic- 
ing any  remarkable  change,  save  crossing  the  geo- 
graphical line  which  the  river  makes  a little  more 
prominent,  as  it  runs  north  through  the  rather  beau- 
tiful, deep  valley — forming  a very  natural,  running 
boundary  line  between  two  great  territories.  As 
usual,  we  are  among  barren  mountains,  relieved  oc- 
casionally by  a growth  of  evergreen  trees,  upon  their 
otherwise  naked  slopes;  sand  plains,  with  their  usu- 
al productions;  a few  patches  of  bunch  grass  to  the 
acre,  with  the  usual  presence  of  that  indigenous, 
prolific  shrub,  wild  sage.  In  the  Blue  Mountains, 
we  crossed  the  Round  Prairie,  thirty  miles  by  about 
thirteen,  as  level  as  a lake  or  a house  floor,  symmet- 
rically enclosed  by  almost  perpendicular,  smooth 
mountain  walls — the  solid  and  beautiful  masonry  ol 
Nature.  It  seems  to  be  the  bed  of  an  old  lake,  re- 
minding one  of  the  rich,  black  loam  of  Iowa,  unusual 
for  the  country,  producing  an  abundance  of  excel- 
lent grass,  good  wheat  and  barley,  and  some  of  the 


EASTERN  OREGON. 


213 

though  a delightful  country,  suitable  for  cultivation 
or  grazing.  Here  were  the  famous  pastures  of  the 
Nez  Perce  Indian  chief,  whose  band  of  horses  num- 
bered sometimes  two  thousand  head. 

Down  among  the  foot-hills,  signs  of  better  life  and 
cultivation  increase — become  more  apparent  to  the 
Walla  Wnlla  Valley,  where  the  settler  can  gather 
about  his  humble  home  beauty  and  fertility.  This 
is  a large  and  productive  valley,  and  is  now  qube 
largely  populated  with  a healthy  farming  interest. 
Wheat,  barley,  oats,  corn,  fruit  and  vegetables,  grow 
largely. 

The  town  of  Walla  Walla,  at  the  head  of  naviga- 
tion on  the  Columbia,  is  a place  of  commercial  im- 
portance— it  being  the  principal  supplying  place  of 
Eastern  Oregon,  Northern  Idaho,  and  the  eastern 
part  of  Washington  Territory.  Besides,  it  is  in  the 
centre  of  an  excellent  grazing  country,  where  grass 
and  water  are  abundant,  with  a climate  dry  and 
healthful ; short  winters  and  long  summers. 

Eastern  Oregon  embraces  all  that  portion  of  Ore- 
gon lying  east  of  the  Cascade  Mountains,  known  in 
California  as  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  was  for  a long 
time  supposed  to  be  a desert  country,  unbiased  in 
any  essential  way  for  the  use  of  civilized  man. 
More  particularly  so,  when  the  emigration  to  this  far 
off  land  came  over-land  from  the  old  States  and  Ter- 


214  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

ritories,  in  the  far  off  east  and  more  southern  States 
arrived  at  the  South  Pass  of  the  Rocky  Mountains 
with  animals  more  than  half  exhausted  and  inefficient 
supplies,  to  enter  upon  a country  more  rugged  and 
inhospitable — against  which,  from  the  ignorance  of 
the  country,  they  had  failed  to  prepare  themselves. 
They  found  now  more  obstacles  to  be  overcome — a 
different  climate  from  any  they  had  ever  experienc- 
ed— agreeable  in  summer  in  the  mountains,  but  ex- 
cessively hot  and  dry  on  the  plains. 

The  little  coolness  in  the  air  in  the  morning  at- 
mosphere, soon  gave  way  as  the  sun  mounted  higher 
and  still  higher — the  heat  increasing  in  intensity, 
until  the  great  plain  palpitated  with  radiated  heat, 
and  the  horizon  flickered  almost  like  a flame — when 
the  burning  heavens  met  the  equally  burning  earth. 
Their  road  often  led  them  long  distances  over  bare 
rocks,  reflecting  the  heat  of  a cloudless  sky — over 
hot,  burning  sands,  and  unusually  heavy  for  their 
teams — over  alkali  deserts,  which  they  knew  not 
how  to  avoid.  They  would,  of  necessity,  become 
somewhat  disheartened  by  long  and  weary  travel, 
and  the  unforeseen  difficulties  which  fell  in  their 
way,  quite  unprepared  to  appreciate  even  the  occa- 
sional oasis  which  beautified  the  desert,  and  impart- 
ed new  life  to  them  and  their  faithful  animals. 

My  heart  rejoiced  many  times  to  see  the  p >or, 


I 


BASTERN  OREGON.  215 

almost  famished  oxen,  after  traveling  with  heavy 
loads  a long  summer  day,  and  often  longer,  to  find 
one  of  these  God-giving  places.  Their  appreciative 
thankfulness,  with  eyes  dancing  in  their  sockets, 
literally  laughing  all  over,  I could  understand  more 
fully  the  request  of  the  great  Webster,  when  he  or- 
dered his  man  to  drive  his  oxen  up  that  he  might 
see  their  honest  faces  once  more  before  he  died; 
so  that  when  they  had  set  foot  within  the  ever  beau- 
tiful verdant  valleys  west  of  the  Cascade  Moun- 
tains, the  brown-colored  hills  and  forbidding  plains 
now  of  Idaho  and  Eastern  Oregon  were  remembered 
only  as  “ that  God  forsaken  country .w 

However,  some  emigrants  were  intelligent  enough 
to  observe  as  they  passed  evidences  of  extensive 
mineral  deposits,  but  never  looked  forward  to  see- 
ing this  region,  in  their  estimation,  occupied,  and 
its  mineral  wealth  filling  up  the  treasury  of  the 
wTorld;  and,  least  of  all,  did  they  foresee  that  some 
of  this  unblessed  country  would  ever  be  what  can 
now  be  seen  in  many  of  its  fertile  valleys,  “ blos- 
soming like  the  rose.”  Such  is  Eastern  Oregon. 
However,  there  is  a very  great  disproportion  be- 
tween the  good  and  bad  land  in  this  portion  of  the 
State.  There  are  many  mountain  ranges — alkali 
plains,  that  would  make  better  soap  than  wheat  and 
sage  deserts.  There  is  no  hope  for  the  alkali,  buf 


216  BEYOND  TBE  WEST. 

some  of  the  sage  land  can  be  reclaimed  where  there 
is  water,  and  made  somewhat  productive.  Eastern 
Oregon,  Eastern  Washington  and  Idaho  have  the 
same  general  aspect  of  country.  The  northerly 
portions  are  heavily  timbered,  but  below  the  47th 
parallel  and  between  the  Cascade  Mountains  and 
the  divide  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  country  is 
made  up  of  mountain  ridges,  high  rolling  plains 
mostly  destitute  of  timber,  and  table  lands,  where 
lakes  and  marshes  may  sometimes  be  found.  But  a 
small  part  of  this  great  region  can  ever  be  made 
productive,  for  the  want  of  irrigation,  but  is  valua- 
ble for  stock-raising  purposes. 

The  Blue  Mountains  cross  Eastern  Oregon  oblique 
ly,  and  form  the  water  shed  between  the  waters 
which  flow  into  the  Columbia  and  those  which  flow- 
east  into  the  lakes,  of  which  the  Kalamath  is  the 
largest.  These  several  lakes,  with  their  surround- 
ings. are  somewhat  remarkable.  Hills  thrown  care- 
lessly  around  in  all  directions,  covered  with  desper- 
ately burnt  rock  and  scoria,  the  hideous  chasma, 
sharp,  pyramidal,  needle-shaped  rocks  of  its  basal- 
tic mountains,  its  mysterious  reservoirs  of  water,  its 
lakes  of  salt  and  hot  springs  in  the  midst  of  alkali 
plains,  seem  to  fix  it  for  a country  uninhabitable  b} 
civilized  man,  and  the  home  of  the  fowl,  and  the 
marauding  Indians  after  a successful  raid  into  tin 


EASTERN  OREGON. 


217 

distant  settlements.  Explorations  already  made  are 
sufficient  to  demonstrate  tie  fact  that  Eastern  Ore- 
gon, like  Idaho  and  Montana,  contains  a mineral 
wealth  of  gold,  silver,  copper,  lead,  cinnabar  and 
plumbago,  which  will  give  it  prominence  and  a 
coming  prosperity. 

Notwithstanding  human  life,  through  all  this  iso- 
lated great  country,  is  like  a gambler's  money — 
mighty  uncertain — the  hard,  uncomfortable  way  of 
travel,  the  deprivations  and  sleepless  nights;  yet 
there  seems  to  be  an  indescribable  something,  I 
must  confess,  that  attaches  one  to  it,  invites  the  sun- 
burnt, and  sometimes  from  broadcloth  to  buckskin 
traveler,  to  prolong  his,  perhaps,  already  too  long 
wanderings.  It  is  not  difficult  for  one  who  has  spent 
some  time  in  any  of  these  mountain  regions,  to  real- 
ize the  reluctance  with  which  old  mountain  men 
leave  this  kind  of  uncivilized  life. 

Once  at  Walla  Walla,  the  past  is  only  of  memory, 
and  the  ready  and  willing  steamer  is  ready  to  take 
you  on  down  the  Columbia, 

“ Through  forest  dark,  and  mountains  rent  in  twain,” 

to  the  bosom  of  its  great  mother,  the  ocean,  whose 
blue  waves  have  rolled  in  for  unnumbered  centuries 
to  welcome  this  savage  yet  magnificent  river.  It 
extends  its  long  arms  northerly  to  British  America, 
and  far  up  in  the  Rocky  Mountains  through  Idaho; 


218  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

also  it  gathers  up  the  northern  waters  of  Nevada 
and  Utah.  The  Owyhee,  the  Boise,  the  Payette,  the 
Salmon  and  the  Clearwater  are  all  tributaries  of  the 
southern  branch,  the  Snake. 

Wallulee,  situate  a little  below  the  junction,  is 
beautifully  located,  and  is  a place  of  commercial  im- 
portance, where  miniug  outfits  are  procured  and 
large  supply  trains  leave  for  the  distant  mines. 
Should  the  business  of  the  upper  country  iucrease, 
as  there  is  every  reason  to  believe  it  must,  the  place 
will  grow  large  and  prosperous. 

The  banks  of  the  Columbia  here  are  low,  having 
the  same  general  appearance,  running  through  .a 
great  sandy  plain.  Nothing  is  in  sight  from  the 
steamer’s  deck  but  expanded  rolling  plains,  with 
scattered  bunch  grass.  Back  a dozen  miles  or  more 
timber  is  visible,  and  farther  back  in  the  mountains 
heavy  forest  is  in  abundance  for  lumbering  pur- 
poses. For  sixty  miles  of  the  ninety  down  to  the  ra- 
pids, not  a single  tree  is  visible,  except  such  shrubs  * 
as  grow  on  the  sand  bars  and  islands. 

Not  far  above  Celilo  (the  head  of  the  rapids)  comes 
in  the  Des  Chutes  River,  rapid  and  wide  at  its  en- 
trance; also,  twenty  miles  up,  the  John  Day  River 
comes  in  by  a high-walled  entrance,  which  quite 
hides  its  approach.  After  these  large  accessions, 
the  Columbia  assumes  her  great  power  down  the 


EASTERN  OREGON. 


219 

rapids.  Above  this  point  the  smaller  boats  only  can 
navigate.  A railroad  portage  carries  everything 
from  here  sixteen  miles  to  Dalles,  below  the  cata- 
ract. The  river  for  some  distance  above  Celilo  is 
rapid  and  lashed  to  foam.  A prominent  feature  here 
is  an  immense  warehouse  a thousand  feet  long,  built 
a^jon  an  incline  to  accommodate  boats  at  the  differ- 
ent stages  of  the  water.  From  here  the  hurry  of 
the  water  is  most  desperate,  like  that  above  the  great 
fall  of  Niagara.  It  dashes  over  towering  rocks, 
driving  itself  into  wild  excitement.  The  rapidity 
of  its  flow  for  such  a large  body  of  water,  com- 
pressed between  high  walls,  seems  to  be,  and  no 
doubt  is,  rounded  up  in  the  middle  of  the  channel, 
so  that  it  appears  to  go  down  on  either  side. 

Most  of  the  distance  the  railroad  is  close  along 
the  river,  in  view  of  its  rapids  and  whirlpools.  The 
enormous  sand  drifts,  ever  changing  with  the  sum- 
mer winds,  cause  the  Railroad  Company  much  trou- 
ble and  expense  to  remove,  and  is  also  annoying  to 
travelers  who  desire  to  see  the  country.  Men  are 
constantly  employed  the  whole  distance  to  prevent 
the  road  from  being  buried  alive  by  the  desperate 
sand  winds  which  drive  during  the  summer  over 
this  upper  country. 

Dalles  is  a prosperous  business  town  of  impor- 
tance on  the  Columbia,  and  has  some  pretensions  of 


BEYOND  TRE  WE'T. 


•2 

becoming  the  terminus  of  a branch  Pacific  Railway. 
The  country  about  Dalles  has  a remarkable  wildness 
and  singularity.  You  have  ail  about  evidences  of 
that  period  when  the  country  was  one  great  field  of 
molten  rock  and  liquid  fire;  rocks  burnt  and  worn 
by  the  elements  into  horizontal  terraces  or  massive 
perpendicular  columns  ani  sharp-pointed  peaks 
hewn  and  seamed  in  everv  direction.  This  is 
an  interesting  region  ; the  worn  basaltic  rock 
makes  impressions  on  the  mind  and  memory  of  the 
beholder  not  soon  forgotten. 

The  word  Dales  signifies  thought,  and  was  applied 
to  this  place  by  the  early  French  voyagers  to  de- 
scribe the  narrow  channel  through  which  the  river 
is  forced  at  this  place.  From  Dalles  Bierstadt 
painted  his  M Mount  Hood.” 

“ Upon  Mount  H<.od  I stood. 

And  with  rapt  gaze  explore 
Toe  valley  and  that  patriot  band 
Upon  Columbia’s  shore.” 

The  grand  old  mountain  can  be  seen  for  a hundred 
miles  along  the  river,  rising  from  the  backbone  of 
the  Cascade  Range.  This,  like  Vesuvius  and  Etna, 
has  formed  for  itself  a cone-shaped  mountain  on  the 
top  of  the  range,  and  has  thrown  np  from  its  crater 
a wonderful  pile  of  scoria,  ashes  and  other  de- 
bris piled  mountain  upon  mountain.  The  north- 
ern side,  that  of  the  river.  ha»  large  quantities  of 


EAST E UN  OREGON.  221 

never-melting  snow,  and  in  warm  weather  Hood 
River  comes  down  cold  from  the  melted  snows  of 
the  might}  mountain.  Its  hight  has  been  variously 
estimated  from  fourteen  to  fifteen  thousand  feet.  It 
has  been  agitated  by  an  occasional  eruption  simul- 
taneously with  earthquakes  at  San  Francisco.  Yet 
it  stands  the  same  old  watch-tower  now  that  it  did 
many  years  ago  when  this  strong,  rapid,  high-walled 
and  low- walled  river,  fifty  years  ago,  carried  the 
yearly  “ brigade”  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company, 
bringing  the  annual  accumulation  of  their  hunting 
and  trapping  from  the  interior  country  and  Canada. 
A few  years  later  it  looked  down  from  its  cloud-cap- 
p *d  crest  upon  the  As  tor  Expedition,  suffering  all  but 
death  itself  while  crossing  the  ranges  under  its  long 
shadow  in  the  cold  and  deep  snows  of  the  mountain 
ranges  in  winter.  But  twenty  years  ago,  in  its  self 
same  majesty,  it  saw  the  yearly  immigrations  to 
Oregon  arriving  at  Dalles,  traveled,  destitute  and 
sick,  late  in  the  fall,  slowly  and  anxiously  passing 
down  the  river  amid  fearf  ul  rapids  to  the  settlements. 
It  also  saw  many  boatmen  and  immigrants  dashed 
to  pieces  in  rapids  and  swallowed  up  in  maddened 
whirlpools,  with  the  feeble  means  they  had  to  float 
over  some  of  its  inhospitable  surface.  These  were 
among  the  hazards  and  uncertainties  of  pioneer  life; 
but  now  the  traveler  can  only  dream  of  those  early 


222  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

times  while  he  gazes  from  the  deck  of  a fine  steamer 
with  every  want  fully  supplied.  Ascending  the 
river  from  Dalles,  the  country  becomes  more  rolling, 
but  quite  barren,  to  the  low  foot-hills  of  the  Cascade 
Range,  when  the  heavy  forests  (as  in  California  on 
the  same  range,)  are  brought  out,  as  there,  in  great- 
ness and  beauty — then  the  very  mountains  them- 
selves— and  when  the  Cascades  are  reached  you  are 
in  the  heart  of  the  mountains. 

The  “ Cascades’7  are  several  miles  of  rapids  where 
the  river  forces  itself  through  the  very  heart  of  the 
mountains.  These  are  passed  also  by  a railway 
portage.  The  river  seems  shut  back  here,  forming 
a beautiful  bay,  with  two  small  islands  and  heavily 
wooded  shores.  Little  above  this  bay  is  a sunken 
forest  a mile  or  two  long  and  a half  mile  wide,  mostly 
covered  by  the  waters  of  the  river.  This  would 
seem  to  be  the  resting  place  for  the  great  waters 
before  rushing  headlong  through  and  down  the  nar- 
row gorge.  These  few  miles  of  railway,  located 
just  above  and  along  the  struggling  waters,  furnish 
views  seldom  equaled  anywhere.  The  high t and  pic- 
turesque grandeur  of  the  mountains  above  the  rapids 
is  so  great,  and  one  feels  his  littleness, (as  in  Yosemite, 
which  we  shall  visit,)  that  any  description  we  could 
give  would  be  as  nothing.  It  cannot  be  described — ' 
it  can  only  be  felt.  Place  half  a dozen  Highlands 


EASTERN  OREGON. 


223 


of  the  noble  Hudson  together,  raise  the  little  shrubs 
to  mighty  trees,  and  you  may  begin  the  comparison. 
Seldom  one  can  find  in  so  short  a distance  more  to 
challenge  admiration  and  receive  more  completeness 
of  impressions. 


CHAPTER  XXVII.  • 


WESTERN  OREGON — PORTLAND — WALLAMET  RIVER  AND 

VALLEY — ITS  UNUSUAL  PRODUCTIVENESS — HEAVY 
FORESTS — EXTENSIVE  FISHERIES — CLIMATE 
AND  SCENERY — COLUMBIA  RIVER. 

The  mountains  past  the  Oregon  side  of  the  Co- 
lumbia for  some  distance  gradually  lower,  are  heavily 
wooded  and  more  fertile,  indicating  the  approach  to 
the  Valley  of  the  Wallamet,  while  the  shore  on  the 
Washington  side  is  more  abrupt  and  brokeu. 

The  old  historical  station  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Coin 
pany  on  the  Washington  side,  Vancouver,  is  beauti- 
fully located,  commanding  a fine  view  of  the  river, 
mountains  and  country.  It  is  the  headquarters  of 
the  Military  Department  of  Oregon. 

A little  distance  below,  on  the  opposite  side,  is  the 
upper  branch  of  the  Wallamet  River;  while  the  low- 
er or  larger  portion  joins  its  noble  flood  farther  down, 
embracing  a fertile  island  of  several  miles  in  length, 
upon  which  the  Hudson  Bay  Company’s  people  es- 
tablished the  first  farming  in  Oregon.  At  the  up- 
per mouth  of  the  stream,  are  a number  of  small  isl- 
ands, as  if  to  keep  back  the  clear  and  sparkling  wa- 
ters, causing  them  to  take  many  devious  ways,  as  if 
reluctant  to  come  forth  all  at  once,  to  join  its  grand 


WESTERN  OREGON. 


225 

er  neighbor,  and  be  recognized  no  more  individual 
ly.  These  embowered  islands,  the  distant  river, 
valley  and  bluffs  of  the  Wallamet  at  the  south,  and 
the  backed  up,  heavily  wooded  mountains  to  the  east, 
together  with  the  snowy  slopes  of  Hood  and  St.  Hel- 
en, standing  majestically,  making  a view  of  mingled 
beauty  and  sublimity.  A very  pleasant  sail  from 
here  to  Portland. 

The  city  was  in  its  infancy  ordained  to  be  called 
Boston,  but  the  Maine  man  saved  it  from  that  fate, 
only  by  the  tossing  of  a copper,  which  fell  head  up — 
that  representing  the  allegiance  of  the  Maine  man 
to  his  native  home. 

Portland  is  yet  young  and  simple-hearted — “feels 
its  oats/’  but  its  dignity  more — looks  as  if  made  for 
all  the  working  days  of  the  week,  and  is  also  consid- 
erably dressed  up  for  Sundays.  The  streets  are 
broad  and  level,  tree-lined,  with  the  very  best,  wide 
side-walks,  which  are  almost  indispensable  here,  on 
account  of  the  excessive  mud  during  the  rainy  sea- 
son. The  houses  are  well  back  from  the  road  and 
streets,  and  have  beautiful  gardens,  with  lawns  of 
most  lovely,  velvety  grass.  The  city  never  gets  out 
of  the  woods.  To  the  west  of  it  stretch  very  heavy7 
forests.  North  of  it  to  the  Columbia,  are  miles  of 
dense  wilderness.  East,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river,  are  also  mighty7  woods;  while  south,  along  the 


226 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


Wallamet  for  many  miles,  are  large  trees  marshaled 
up  the  hill  side  and  overtopped  in  the  gorges,  and  '* 
absorbing  the  very  sunlight  in  their  stately  masses; 
while  those  near  the  road  seem  bending  down  to  the 
very  roadside  to  see  who  comes  so  quietly  over  the 
smooth,  sandy  road,  into  their  ancient  solitude. 

Portland  lies  in  the  real  heart  of  Western  Oregon. 
The  almost  inaccessible  Cascade  Mountain  ranges, 
running  north  and  south,  form  a very  natural  division 
of  Oregon,  making  an  Eastern  and  Western  Territo- 
ry. That  portion  of  the  State  west  of  the  moun- 
tains, is  embraced  in  three  large  valleys — the  Wal- 
lamet,  Umpqua,  and  the  Rouge  River,  together  with 
a narrow  strip  of  land  lying  on  the  coast,  with  the 
Columbia  River  for  a northern  boundary.  The  Coast 
Mountains  and  the  Cascades,  quite  inaccessible  on 
the  east,  make  of  necessity  a geographical  division  of 
the  State. 

The  territory  lying  between  these  two  ranges,  is 
divided  by  three  transverse  mountain  ranges  sepa- 
rating the  valleys,  of  which  the  Wallamet  is  much 
the  largest  and  most  productive. 

The  Wallamet  River,  like  most  others  of  this  coun- 
try, is  troubled  with  falls.  Twenty-five  miles  from 
:ts  mouth  are  falls  furnishing  the  largest  water  pow- 
er in  the  State.  Above  the  falls,  the  water  forms  a 
large  basin,  and  is  smooth  until  within  a half-mile  of 


WESTERN  OREGON. 


227 


the  falls,  when  it  quickly  comes  together,  rapidly  in- 
creases its  momentum  until  in  great  haste  it  turns 
back  upon  its  selfforming  turbulent  eddies,  until 
driven  forward  it  makes  a last  desperate  plunge  of 
twenty-five  feet  into  a maddened  whirlpool.  The 
spray  dashed  up,  forms  a beautiful  rainbow;  and  also 
cools  the  hot  air  of  summer  at  Oregon  City — on  the 
rocky  bluff  at  this  place. 

This  interrupted  navigation  of  the  river  has  been 
mostly  overcome  by  the  Boat  Company,  and  the 
portage  is  easily  made.  The  company  excavated  a 
canal  and  basin  along  the  east  side,  so  that  their 
boats  come  so  near  together  that  the  passengers  and 
freight  have  only  to  cross  the  warehouse  to  be  trans- 
ferred. The  whole  length  of  this  river  is  not  far 
from  a hundred  and  seventy-five  miles,  and  the  ex- 
tent of  the  valley  is  iu  the  neighborhood  of  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty-five  miles  long,  by  from  sixty  to 
eighty  in  width,  having  many  tributary  streams. 

Wallamet  Valley  is  principally  prairie  land,  wait- 
ing only  the  husbandman’s  plowshare  aud  scattering 
the  seed,  to  reward  him  liberally  in  large  harvests. 
For  several  miles  from  the  Columbia,  the  forests  of 
fir,  pine,  yew  and  cedar,  are  very  dense  on  the  high- 
er lands  back  ; while  the  river  bottom  lands  are  cov- 
ered with  a large  growth  of  oak,  ash,  maple,  cotton- 
wood and  willow:  but  farther  southward  the  timber 


1 

228  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

becomes  less,  and  goes  back  into  the  foot  hills  and 
mountains,  until  the  country  opens  out  in  large  and 
beautiful  rolling  prairies.  Not  like  the  immense  flat 
plains  of  Illinois,  but  more  like  the  undulating  “oak 
openings”  of  Wisconsin.  Low  ranges  of  hills  divide 
it,  covered  thinly  with  oak,  low  and  spreading  like 
those  in  Sacramento  Valley  and  at  Achapulco,  trunks 
glowed  in  orange  and  green  limbs,  having  a long, 
gray,  hanging  moss  swinging  in  the  summer  wind, 
as  if  celebrating  the  mildness  and  beauty  of  the  coun- 
try. The  soil  is  of  a dark  gray  color;  calcarious, 
sandy  loam;  is  mellow,  and  ordinarily  suffers  but  lit- 
tle from  drouth;  is  especially  adapted  to  cereals,  and 
grows  vegetables  and  the  hardy  fruits,  but  not  so 
largely  as  the  more  alluvial  soil  formed  along  the 
rivers  and  streams.  These  prairies  furnish  grass  iu 
abundance  for  hay,  but  not  in  such  quantity  or  qual- 
ity as  the  lower  lands  of  the  rivers  and  streams.  But 
grass  is  everywhere  to  be  found  more  or  less  away 
from  the  heavy  timber,  and  that  when  cleared  makes 
the  very  best  grass  land  of  the  country. 

The  general  formation  of  the  country  govern  men 
in  their  selection  of  agricultural  pursuits.  The  grain 
farmer  will  settle  in  the  valleys,  while  the  fruit-grow- 
er will  go  to  the  low  foot-hills,  and  the  sheep-raiser 
will  go  higher  up  among  the  hills  with  his  sheep  to 
the  mountains.  The  dairyman  seeks  those  places 


I 


WESTEKN  OREGON.  229 


where  grass  is  the  most  abundant  during  the  year, 
and  where  the  climate  favors  most  the  making  of 
butter  and  cheese.  As  already  intimated,  Western 
Oregon — lying  between  the  Cascade  Mountains  and 
the  coast  range — is  one  general  valley,  containing 
as  much  good  farming  land  as  would  make  a State  of 
the  size  of  Connecticut,  besides  two  other  valleys, 
having  a large  amount  of  good  agricultural  land,  and 
a greater  proportion  of  mountains,  but  superior  for 
grazing  and  fruit-growing:  while  the  lower  valley 
has  some  of  California’s  reputation  for  mining. 

No  one  can  travel  through  Wallamet  Valley  with- 
out being  impressed  with  its  varied  beauty  and  al- 
most wonderful  fertility.  Some  have  pronounced  it 
the  most  beautiful  valley  in  America.  This  is  claim- 
ing too  much  for  it;  yet  it  can  be  placed  among  the 
largest  and  best,  of  which  our  extended  country  has 
so  many.  The  beauty  of  this  is  made  up  in  agreea- 
ble intermixture  of  level  and  rolling  prairies,  with 
ranges  of  low  hills,  pictured  with  heavy  green  for- 
ests, many  gliding,  winding  rivers  skirted  with  the 
finest  trees,  and  in  the  majesty  of  the  mountains 
which  guard  it  from  the  heat  ot  eastern  deserts,  and 
the  cold  of  the  Arctic  seas.  Its  fertility  and  beauty 
are  manifested  in  the  magnificent  forests  which  em- 
bellish all  the  surrounding  hills  in  everlasting  green; 
also  in  the  grassy  plain  which  year  after  year  clothe 


*^30  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

„ne  valley  with  renewed,  beautiful  verdure,  and  also 
in  the  many  waving,  golden  harvest  fields  which  are 
now  interspersed  among  the  universal  green.  Na- 
ture is  prolific.  The  soil  and  climate  invite  labor 
with  almost  a sure  promise  of  reward,  on  account 
of  the  uniformity  of  the  seasons  by  which  the  ma- 
turing of  crops  become  a certainty.  The  produc- 
tion of  wheat  must,  as  it  has  been,  be  one  of  the 
principal  productions  of  the  State.  Oregon  “ has  the 
largest  compact  body  of  good  wheat  land  on  the  Pa- 
cific slope,  which,  surrounded  and  intermingled  with 
never-failing  water  power,  makes  the  Wa  11a met  Val- 
ley adapted  by  nature  for  the  cheap  manufacture  of 
breadstuffs.” 

While  Western  Oregon  is  so  very  prolific  in  ag?i- 
cultural  productions,  its  timber  and  lumbering  re- 
sources are  equally  as  much  so.  The  principal  tim- 
ber used  for  lumber  are  the  firs  and  cedars.  These 
grow  beside  the  streams  and  on  the  mountain  ran- 
ges, affording  excellent  facilities  for  milling  and  for 
exporting  lumber.  Along  the  Columbia  river  from 
Dalles  to  its  mouth,  a distance  of  two  hundred  miles, 
are  dense  forests  of  very  large  trees  which  make  the 
best  of  lumber.  Much  of  it  finds  a market  in  San 
Francisco  and  the  Sandwich  Islands. 

No  finer  fisheries  are  to  be  found  than  here.  From 
the  highest  mountain  torrent,  filled  with  delicious 


4 


WESTERN-  OREGON. 


231 


speckled  trout,  to  the  largest  rivers  and  the  ocean 
bays,  all  ito  waters  are  quite  alive  with  fish.  The 
ocean  bays  furnish  cod,  sturgeon,  carp,  flounders, 
perch,  herring,  crabs  and  oysters.  All  the  rivers 
along  the  coast  furnish  salmon — the  largest  are  tak- 
en in  Columbia. 

They  ascend  the  river  twice  a year — in  May  and 
October.  My  presence  among  the  Indians  did  not 
interrupt  their  fine  and  abundant  fishery.  An  enor- 
mous basket  was  fastened  to  a projecting  rock,  and 
the  finest  fish  of  the  Columbia,  as  if  by  fascination, 
cast  themselves  by  dozens  into  the  snare.  Seven  or 
eight  times  during  the  day  it  was  examined,  and  each 
time  was  found  to  contain  two  hundred  and  fifty 
salmon.  The  Indians,  meanwhile,  were  seen  on  ev- 
ery  projecting  rock,  piercing  the  fish  with  the  great- 
est dexterity. 

They  who  do  not  know  th»s  Territory,  may  accuse 
me  of  exaggeration  when  I affirm,  that  it  would  be  as 
easy  to  count  the  pebbles  so  profusely  scattered  on 
the  shores,  as  to  sum  up  the  different  kinds  of  fish 
which  this  western  river  furnishes  for  man’s  support; 
as  the  buffalo  of  the  north,  and  the  deer  from  north 
to  east  of  the  mountains  furnish  daily  food  for  the 
inhabitants  of  those  regions,  so  do  these  fish  supply 
the  wants  of  the  western  tribes. 

One  may  form  some  idea  of  the  quantity  of  sal- 


232 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


mon  and  other  fish,  by  remarking  the  time  they  as- 
cend the  rivers.  All  the  tribes  inhabiting  the  shores 
choose  favorable  locations;  and  not  only  do  they  find 
nutriment  during  the  season,  but,  if  diligent,  they 
dry,  and  also  pulverize  and  mix  with  oil,  a sufficient 
quantity  for  the  rest  of  the  year.  Incalculable  shoals 
of  salmon  ascend  to  the  river’s  source  and  there  die 
in  shallow  water.  Great  quantities  of  trout  and 
carp  follow  them,  and  regale  themselves  on  the  spawn 
deposited  by  the  salmon  in  holes  and  still  water. 

The  following  year  the  young  ualnaon  descend  to 

the  sea,  and  I have  been  told  (I  cannot  vouch  for  the 

authenticity)  that  they  never  return  until  the  fourth 

year.  Six  different  species  are  found  in  the  Columbia. 

“ What  is  yon  object  which  attracts  the  eye 
Of  the  observing  traveler  who  ascends 
Columbia's  waters,  when  the  summer  sky 
In  one  soft  tint  calm  nature’s  clothing  blends* 

As  glittering  in  the  sunbeam  down  it  floats, 

’Till  some  vile  vulture  on  its  carcass  gloats. 

’Tis  a poor  salmon,  which  a short  time  past, 

With  thousands  of  her  finny  sisters  came, 

By  instinct  taught,  to  seek  and  find  at  last 
The  place  that  gave  her  birth ; there  to  rem  ain 
’Till  nature’s  offices  had  been  discharged, 

And  fry  from  out  the  ova  had  emerged. 

Her  winter  spent  amoigst  the  sheltered  bays 
Of  the  salt  sea,  where  numerous  fish  of  pray, 

With  appetite  keen,  the  number  of  her  days 
Would  soon  have  put  an  end  to,  could  but  they 
Have  caught  her;  but,  as  they  could  not,  she. 

Spring  having  come,  resolved  to  quit  the  sea. 


WESTERN  OREGON. 


233 

And  moving  with  the  shoal  along  the  bay,  at  length 
She  reached  the  outlet  of  her  native  river ; 

There  tarried  for  a little  to  recruit  her  strength, 

So  tried  of  late  by  cold  and  stormy  weather, 

Sporting  in  gambols  o’er  the  banks  and  sands, 

Chasing  the  tiny  fish  frequenting  theie  in  bands. 

But  ah  ! how  little  thought  this  simple  fish 
The  toils  and  perils  she  was  yet  to  suffer, 

The  chance  she  ran  of  serving  as  a dish 
For  hungry  white  man  or  for  Indian’s  supper, 

Of  enemies  which  the  stream  abounds, 

When  lo ! she’s  by  fisher’s  net  surrounded. 

Partly  conscious  of  her  approaching  end, 

She  darts  with  meteoric  swiftness  to  and  fro, 

Striking  the  frail  meshes  within  which  she’s  penned, 
Which  bids  defiance  to  her  stoutest  blow. 

To  smaller  compass  by  degrees  the  snare  is  drawn, 
When  with  a leap  she  clears  it  and  is  gone. 

Once  more  at  large  with  her  companions,  now 
Becoming  more  cautious  from  her  late  escape, 

She  keeps  in  deeper  water,  and  thinks  how 
Foolish  she  was  to  get  in  such  a scrape, 

As  mounting  further  up  the  stream,  she  vies 
With  other  fish,  in  catching  gnats  and  flies. 

And  as  she  on  her  way  did  thus  enjoy 
Life’s  fleeting  moments,  there  arose  a panic 
Amongst  the  stragglers,  who  at  length  deploy 
Around  their  elder  leaders  quick  as  magic ; 

While  she,  unconscious  of  the  untimely  rout, 

Was  by  a hungry  otter  singled  out. 

Vigorous  was  the  chase — on  the  marked  victim  shot 
Through  the  clear  water,  while  in  quick  pursuit 

Followed  her  amphibious  foe,  who  scarce  had  got 
Near  enough  to  grasp  her,  when  with  turns  acute, 

And  leaps  and  revolutions,  she  so  tried  the  otter, 

He  gave  up  the  hunt  with  merely  having  bit  her. 


23 1 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


Scarce  had  she  recovered  from  her  weakness,  when 
An  ancient  eagle  of  the  bald  head  kind, 

Winging  his  dreary  way  to’ards  some  lone  glen, 

Where  was  her  nest,  with  four  plump  eaglets  lined, 
Espied  the  fish,  which  he  judged  quite  a treat, 

And  just  the  morsel  for  his  little  ones  to  eat. 

And  sailing  in  spiral  circles  o’er  the  spot 
Where  lay  bis  pray,  then  hovering  for  a time 
To  take  his  wary  aim,  he  stooped  and  caught 
His  booty,  which  he  carried  to  a lofty  tree, 

Upon  whose  topmost  branches  he  first  adjusted 
His  awkvrard  load  ere  with  his  claws  he  crushed  it. 

‘ 111  is  the  wind  that  blows  no  person  good 
So  said  the  adage,  and  as  luck  would  have  it, 

A huge  gray  eagle  out  in  search  of  food, 

Who  just  had  whet  his  hunger  with  a rabbit. 

Attacked  the  other,  and  the  pair  together 
In  deadly  combat  fell  into  the  river. 

Our  friend,  of  course,  made  off  when  she’d  done  falling, 
Some  sixty  yards,  and  well  indeed  she  might, 

For  ne’er,  perhaps,  a fish  got  such  a mauling 
Since  Adam’s  time,  or  went  up  such  a bight 
Into  the  air  and  come  down  helter-skelter, 

As  did  this  poor  production  of  melter. 

All  this,  with  many  other  dangers,  she  survived, 

Too  manifold  in  this  short  space  to  mention ; 

So  we’ll  suppose  her  to  have  now  arrived 
Safe  at  the  Falls,  without  much  more  detention 
Than  one  could  look  for,  where  so  many  liked  her 
Company,  and  so  many  Indians  spiked  her. 

And  here  a mighty  barrrier  stops  her  way, 

The  tranquil  water  finding  in  its  course 
Itself  beset  with  rising  rocks,  which  lay 

As  though  they  said,  ‘ return  ye  to  your  source,’ 

Bursts  wilh  indignation,  fury,  from  its  bondage,  now 
Hushes  in  foaming  torrents  to  the  chasm  below. 


WESTERN  OREGuN.  235 

The  persevering  fish  then  at  the  foot  arises, 

Laboring  with  redoubled  vigor, ’mid  the  surging  tide, 
And  fiuding  by  her  strength  she  vainly  strives 
To  overcome  the  flood,  though  o’er  and  o’er  she  tried, 
Her  tail  taken  in  her  mouth,  and  bending  like  a bow, 
That’s  to  full  compass  drawn,  aloft  herself  doth  throw. 

And  springing  in  the  air,  as  would  a silver  wand, 

That  blended  end  to  end,  and  upwards  cast, 

Headlong  she  falls  amid  the  showering  waters,  and 
Gasping  for  breath,  against  the  rocks  is  dashed. 

Again,  again  she  vaults — again  she  tries, 

And  in  one  last  and  feeble  effort— dies.” 

Our  space  will  not  allow  of  a detailed  account  ot  the 
very  large  variety  of  articles  which  this  valley  is  ca- 
pable of  producing.  All  the  grains  grow  and  pro- 
duce abundantly,  never  yet  having  failed,  and  are  of 
the  best  quality.  The  same  is  true  of  such  fruits  as 
apples,  pears,  plums,  cherries,  currants,  and  all  the 
varieties  of  berries. 

The  prospecter  has  discovered  in  Western  Oregon 
gold,  silver,  copper,  iron,  lead  and  coal  in  reasonable 
quantities,  and  although  this  country  is  especially 
adapted  to  agricultural  and  pastoral  pursuits,  the 
present  indications  are  that  its  mineral  wealth  makes 
it  almost  certain  that  the  miner’s  pick,  as  well  as  the 
farmer’s  plough,  must  furrow  the  face  of  mother 
earth,  west  of  the  Cascade  Mountains. 

CLIMATE  OF  WESTERN  OREGON. 

The  climate  here  has  shown  itself  to  be  a healthy 
one  during  the  long  residence  of  some  of  the  early 

236 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


missionaries  and  settlers.  There  does  not  seem  to 
be  any  natural  causes  for  the  encouragement  of  dis- 
ease, if  we  except  the  tendency  to  rheumatic  difficul- 
ties occasionally,  as  in  San  Francisco,  which  are 
caused  by  the  cold  winds  from  the  ocean  sweeping 
inland  to  the  arid  plains.  These  winds  are  a healthy 
provision  of  nature,  and  impart  to  the  country  a 
climate  free  from  pestilential  diseases;  but  it  is  ne- 
cessary for  those  who  have  delicate  constitutions,  to 
protect  themselves  against  the  rapid  change  of  tem- 
perature which  is  sometimes  caused  by  the  winds 
from  the  sea  sweeping  in  suddenly,  displacing  the 
warm  air  of  the  valleys.  However,  with  proper  care 
to  the  manifest  laws  of  health,  the  bodily  man  can 
hardly  find  a better  climate  for  health  and  devel- 
opment. The  nights  are  always  cool,  and  sleep. 
“ nature’s  sweet  restorer,”  becomes  a regular  refresh- 
ment. 

The  winters  are  monotonous  and  somewhat  disa- 
greeable on  account  of  the  almost  constant  rain. 
The  Californians  call  these  Wallamet  neighbors 
“ web-footed, ’’  but  we  did  not  see  the  web;  jesting  at 
their  lack  of  enterprise,  meaning  that  the  wet  cli- 
mate has  made  them  aquatic,  while  they  reply  that 
they  are  solvent,  and  do  not  borrow  money  at  two 
and  three  per  cent,  a month  to  buy  champagne 
with. 


WESTERN  OREGON. 


237 


The  summers  are  delightful;  the  temperature  of 
the  day  is  agreeable,  the  air  bright  and  clear; 
warmer  in  the  after  part  of  the  day  than  in  the 
morning,  and  falling  again  to  coolness  in  the  evening. 
Sultriness,  such  as  we  sometimes  experience  in  our 
home  country,  is  never  found  in  these  regions. 
The  greatest  heat  in  summer  never  has  that  debili- 
tating effect  which  the  summer  heat  sometimes  has 
in  the  Atlantic  States.  It  was  remarked  by  farm- 
ers here  that  their  cattle  can  endure  more  work 
under  the  hot  sun  of  summer,  with  less  exhaustion, 
than  they  could  in  the  States  from  which  they 
came. 

The  climate  of  the  coast  country  is  more  moist 
and  cooler  than  the  country  lying  back  to  the  east- 
ward, on  account  of  its  nearness  to  the  sea.  The 
soil  is  black  and  rich,  (like  that  about  Chicago,) 
supporting  an  immense  growth  of  vegetation.  The 
prairie  places  are  covered  with  good  grass  ; also 
the  hillsides  with  a very  heavy  growth  where  the 
forests  are  not  too  heavy. 

The  temperature  of  the  coast  counties  is  lower 
than  that  of  the  interior,  and  is  more  uniform.  The 
fogs  from  the  sea  in  summer  and  the  rains  in  win- 
ter serve  to  keep  the  grass  in  excellent  condition  the 
year  round.  With  these  natural  favorable  circum- 
stances, together  with  some  others,  this  would  seem 


238  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

to  be  the  most  favorable  country  for  dairying — in- 
deed, the  best  on  the  Pacific  coast,  as  the  valleys  of 
the  interior  are  the  grafraries. 

Could  some  of  our  Herkimer  County  dairymen 
transfer  their  fine  milking  herds  to  these  valleys  and 
hills  of  perpetual  green — one  luxuriant  pasture  year 
after  year — with  their  present  knowledge  of  the 
business,  it  would  be  to  them  a promised  land  flow- 
ing with  milk  (if  not  honey).  Truly  they  would  find 
here  a goodly  heritage — no  dreary  winter  one  half 
the  year  to  consume  the  products  of  the  other  half. 
Nature  here  in  the  coast  counties  is  constantly  re- 
newing herself,  and  with  proper  industry  and 
management  (if  a failure  occurred  it  could  not  be 
charged  to  the  account  of  the  country)  would  con- 
stantly pour  her  treasures  in  the  lap  of  the  intelligent 
and  industrious  dairyman. 

While  we  view  with  commendable  pride  the 
cities,  villages  and  towns,  growing  great  and  pros- 
perous, surrounded  by  liberal  and  generous  fertility, 
supplying  every  want  and  luxury,  we  feel  as  though 
we  would  be  rebuked  should  we  leave  Oregon, 
more  especially  the  Wallamet  Valley,  without  drop 
ping  a few  thoughts  in  commemoration  of  the  early 
emigration  across  the  continent.  Coming  here,  as 
they  did,  so  far  away  from  their  friends  and  native 
land,  in  a country  claimed  and  occupied  (which  is 


WESTERN  OREGON.  239 

nine  tenths  of  the  law)  by  a foreign  government,  to 
take  upon  themselves  the  deprivations  and  dangers 
of  the  way  and  settlement,  is  unparalleled  in 
the  history  of  America,  and,  perhaps,  in  the  world. 
Aside  from  any  right  we  had  to  Oregon  resting  on 
discovery,  exploration,  cession  and  contiguity,  actual 
possession  of  the  country  was  needed  to  make  that 
title  indisputable.  Nothing  was  complete  without 
it,  and  this  the  early  immigrants  to  Oregon  settled 
in  favor  of  the  nation,  in  the  presence  of  the  rulers 
and  subjects  of  a princess  claiming  to  exercise,  and 
exercised,  a sovereign  jurisdiction  over  the  country, 
able  to  crush  out  the  rising  colony,  either  by  force, 
or  by  refusing  them  such  supplies  in  their  destitute 
condition  as  were  indispensable  to  their  existence. 
They  occupied  the  extraordinary  and  every  way 
anomalous  position  of  a people  who,  without  having 
either  renounced  their  country,  or  been  renounced 
by  it,  were  nevertheless  without  one. 

We  have  already  said  all  and  more  than  we  first 
intended  to  say  of  New  England  shores,  but  the 
mind  runs  unbridled,  and  we  are  dwelling  with  more 
than  fond  reverence  upon  the  history  of  our  pilgrim 
fathers,  who  established  a State  without  a king,  more 
lasting  (we  hope)  than  the  rock  upon  which  they 
disembarked.  The  heart  of  the  philanthropist  and 
patriot  swells  with  just  and  honorable  pride  and 


240 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


gratitude  to  a watchful  and  guiding  Providence,  as 
he  reads  the  story  of  the  settlement  of  Jamestown, 
and  notices  so  many  selfsacrifices,  hardships  and 
suffering  endured  with  an  unusual  degree  of  the 
most  heroic  fortitude.  But  as  memory  picks  up 
and  binds  together  the  exhausting  journey  of  many 
months,  dangers  and  perils,  exposed  to  hostile  In- 
dian tribes  over  arid  deserts  and  bleak  mountains, 
I am  compelled,  as  we  stand  here  now  and  survey 
this  beautiful  and  rich  country,  to  express  the  opin- 
ion that  all  history,  both  ancient  and  modern,  may 
be  challenged  to  furnish  an  instance  of  colonization 
more  replete  with  difficulties  overcome,  fraught  with 
more  discouragements  sustained  and  submitted  to, 
as  those  which  characterize  the  settlement  of  the 
beautiful  and  productive  valley  of  the  Wallamet. 

After  several  years  of  negotiations,  which  resulted 
in  the  final  ad  justment  of  the  territorial  controversy, 
to  the  neglect  and  injury  of  the  settlers,  a treaty 
was  concluded  and  signed  at  Washington,  June  15, 
1846,  and  ratified  at  London,  July  17,  of  the  same 
year. 

The  appearance  on  the  Columbia  of  the  United 
States  ship  Stark,  the  same  year,  cheered  the  hearts 
of  the  settlers,  and  upon  seeing  the  stars  and  stripes 
displayed,  they  were  greeted  by  the  spontaneous 
shouts  of  a people  whose  hearts  were  filled  with  a 


WESTERN  OREGON. 


241 


thousand  glorious  recollections  which  clustered 
around  and  covered,  as  it  seemed  to  them,  the  em 
Idem  of  their  now  new  country’s  nationality  on  the 
Pacific  coast. 

SCENERY. 

Nowhere  west  of  the  Mississippi,  can  a country  he 
found  where  the  general  scenery  is  so  varied  and 
magnificent  as  in  Oregon.  The  massive  Rocky  Moun- 
tains to  the  east;  the  steeper  slopes  of  the  Cascade 
Mountain  ranges  in  the  centre,  and  the  coast  range 
on  the  west,  covered  far  up  their  rugged  sides  with 
magnificent  forests,  while  between  them  are  rolling 
prairies,  extensive  plains  and  embowered  lakes;  un 
numbered,  long,  wide  and  beautiful  rich  valleys,  en- 
hancing the  appearance  of  grandeur  and  varied  beau 
ty ; enhanced  by  the  mauy  magnificent  rivers  and 
mountain  streams,  which  glide  from  mountain  can- 
yons and  glens  in  every  direction,  bearing  on  their 
ceaseless  flow  the  elements  of  prosperous  commerce, 
productiveness  and  beauty. 

When  once  upon  the  summit  of  the  Cascade  Moun- 
tains, thrown  together  in  extraordinary  confusion, 
the  traveler’s  toil  is  repaid.  “In  one  view  he  may 
embrace  the  rugged  steeps  of  the  Green  Mountains  : 
the  blue,  wooded  slopes  of  the  Alleghanies,  and  the 
ice-crowned  peaks  of  the  Alps;  the  volcanic  piles  of 
the  Andes;  the  broad  platteau  of  Brazil;  the  fertile 


242  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

1 

1 

prairies  of  the  Upper  Mississippi,  and  the  lawns, 
groves-  and  copses  of  thro  sonny  South.  To  the  east- 
ward he  beholds  an  immense  plattean  or  elevated 
plain,  relieved  at  distant  intervals  by  spurs  from  the 
mountain  chains,  and  sloping  gently  in  different  di- 
rections towards  the  various  streams  which,  wend- 
ing their  way  through  mountain  gorges  to  the  ocean, 
or  to  some  silent  lake,  drain  the  eastern  portion  of 
the  State.  To  the  west  he  surveys  a country  diver- 
sified by  great  rivers  and  small  streamlets;  by  tall 
mountains  and  deeply  embosomed  vales;  by  gentle 
undulations  and  precipitous,  high-walled  canyons;  by 
dark-frowning  forests  of  pine  and  fir,  spruce  and  ce- 
dar, which  the  eye  fails  to*  penetrate^  and  natural 
gardens,  all  carpeted  over  with  luxuriant  grasses, 
redolent  with  odors  of  wild  flowers,  and  full  of  the 
music  of  winged  choristers.” 

This  chain  of  mountains  has  so  mauv  large  streams 
rushing  over  precipitous  cliffs,  leaping  from  fall  to 
fall,  and  dashing  and  foaming  over  rocky  beds — hence 
the  characteristic  name — Cascade. 

Many  curious  formations  are  found  in  the  tops  of 
the  Rocky  and  Cascade  Mountains,  remarkable  lakes, 
(you  will  recollect  we  mentioned  one  while  ascend- 
ing Mount  Lincoln,)  small  mountains  of  cinders,  as 
if  fresh  from  the  volcanic  forge,  sea  shells  and  cor- 
als. One  of  these  Mountain  Lakes  is  thus  described 
by  a gentleman  who  visited  it : 

. ..  • 

WoS'lEKN  OREGON. 


243 


“ Upon  rising  the  slope  bounding  the  lake,  the  first 
impression  made  upon  your  mind  is  one  of  disap- 
pointment— it  does  not  come  up  to  your  expecta- 
tions, but  this  is  only  momentary.  A second  look,  and 
you  begin  to  comprehend  the  majestic  beauties 
of  the  scenery  spread  out  before  you,  and  you  sit 
down  on  the  brink  of  'the  precipice,  and  feast  your 
eyes  on  the  remarkable  grandeur.  Your  thoughts 
wander  back  thousands  of  years  to  the  time  when, 
where  now  is  a placid  sheet  of  water  there  was  a 
lake  of  fire,  throwing  its  cinders  and  ashes  in  every 
direction.  The  whole  surroundings  prove  this  lake 
to  be  the  crater  of  an  extinct  volcano.  The  appear- 
ance of  the  water  in  the  basin,  as  seen  from  the  top 
of  the  mountain,  is  that  of  a vast  circular  sheet  of 
canvas,  upon  which  some  painter  had  been  exercis- 
ing his  art.  The  color  of  the  water  is  blue,  but  in 
very  many  different  shades,  and,  like  the  colors  in 
variegated  silk,  continually  changing.  Now,  a spot 
will  be  dark  blue,  almost  approaching  black;  in  the 
next  moment  it  will  change  to  a very  pale  blue,  and 
it  is  continually  changing  from  one  shade  to  another. 

“I  cannot  account  for  this  changeableness,  as  the 
sky  was  perfectly  clear,  and  it  cuuld  not  have  been 
caused  by  any  shadows.  There  was,  however,  a gen- 
tle breeze,  which  caused  a ripple  of  the  waters;  this 
may  account  for  it.  At  first  sight,  a person  would 


# 


lM4  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

nor  estimate  the  surface  of  the  water  to  be  more 
than  two  or  three  hundred  feet  below  the  summit  of 
the  surrounding  bluffs,  and  it  is  only  after  a steady 
look  almost  perpendicularly  down  into  the  water,  that 
you  begin  to  comprehend  the  distance.  In  looking 
down  into  the  lake,  the  vision  seems  to  stop  before 
reaching  the  bottom;  and,  to  use  a common  expres- 
sion, you  have  to  look  twice  before  reaching  the  bot- 
tom. Heretofore,  it  has  been  thought  by  those  who 
have  visited  the  lake,  that  it  was  impossible  to  get 
to  the  water;  and  this  was  also  my  impression  at  first 
sight,  and  I should  have  been  contented  to  remain 
on  the  summit,  and  view  its  beauties  from  that  point, 
without  attempting  to  get  to  the  water;  but  Ser- 
geant Stearns  and  Mr.  Ford,  who,  after  gazing  a 
while  from  the  top,  disappeared  over  the  precipice, 
and  in  a few  minutes  were  at  the  bottom  near  the 
water’s  edge,  where  no  human  being  ever  stood  be- 
fore. Their  shouts  induced  Mr.  Coats  and  myself 
to  attempt  the  feat,  which  is  in  fact  only  perilous  in 
imagination. 

“ A spring  of  water  bursts  out  of  the  mountain  near 
the  top,  on  the  side  where  we  were,  and  by  follow- 
ing down  the  channel  which  the  water  has  made,  a 
good  footing  may  be  established  all  the  way  down. 
In  all  probability,  this  is  the  only  place  in  the  whole 
circumference  where  the  lake  is  accessible, although 


WESTERN  OREGON.  24 

Sergeant  Stearns  clambered  around  the  lake  for  a 
short  distance,  and  ascended  to  the  summit  by  a dif- 
terent  route  from  the  one  we  descended — yet  he  does 
not  think  he  could  go  down  where  he  came  up.  The 
water  in  the  like  is  as  clear  as  a crystal,  and  is  about 
the  same  temperature  as  the  well  water  in  Rogue 
River  Valley. 

“ We  saw  no  fish  of  any  kind,  nor  even  insects  in 
the  water.  The  only  thing  we  saw  that  indicated 
that  there  are  fish  in  the  lake  was  a kingfisher.  In 
ascending,  I measured  the  distance  as  well  as  I cou!d, 
from  poiut  to  point,  by  the  eye,  and  conclude  that  it 
is  from  seven  to  eight  hundred  feet  perpendicular, 
from  the  water  to  the  summit  of  the  bluff.  The  hike 
seems  to  be  very  nearly  circular,  and  is  from  seven 
to  eight  miles  in  diameter;  and,  except  at  two  or 
three  points,  the  bluff  is  about  the  same  altitude. 
Near  the  western  shore  of  the  lake  is  an  island  about 
one  half  mile  in  diameter,  upon  which  there  is  con- 
siderable timber  growing.  The  island  is  not  more 
than  a quarter  of  a mile  from  the  western  shore  of 
the  lake,  and  its  shape  is  a frustrum  of  a cone;  the 
top  seems  to  be  depressed,  and  I think  there  is  a 
small  crater  in  the  center  of  the  island.  I think  a 
path  could  be  made  from  the  summit  to  the  water’s 
edge,  at  the  western  edge  of  the  lake,  for  the  forma- 
tion seems  to  be  entirely  pomice  stone  at  that  point, 


2 to 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


and  to  slope  to  the  water’s  edge  at  a less  angle  than 
any  other  place  around  the  lake.  At  this  point  a 
boat  could  be  safely  let  down  to  the  water  by  a rope. 

“ I do  not  know  who  first  saw  this  lake,  nor  do  I 
think  it  should  be  named  after  the  discoverer.  Ser- 
geant Stearns  and  Peyton  Ford  are  the  first  white 
men  who  ever  reached  its  waters;  and  if  named  af- 
ter any  person,  should  be  named  after  them.  But 
as  I do  not  believe  a more  majestic  sheet  of  water  is 
to  be  found  upon  the  taceof  the  globe,  I propose  the 
name  ‘ Majesty.7  It  will  be  visited  bj  thousands 
hereafter,  and  some  person  would  dr>  well  to  build 
upon  its  banks  a house  where  visitors  could  be  en- 
tertained, and  to  keep  a boat  upon  its  waters,  that 
its  beauties  might  be  seen  to  a better  advantage.” 

A railroad  is  now  being  built  through  the  Wallamet 
Valley,  called  the  Oregon  Central.  This  road  is  in- 
tended to  connect  the  Columbia  River  with  San  Fran- 
cisco Bay,  and  will  form  a link  in  that  other  great 
line  of  railway  which  is  so  much  needed,  and  which 
will  soon  be  constructed,  connecting  Lake  Superior 
and  Puget  Sound  with  that  Bay.  As  Editors  some- 
times say,  before  going  to  press,  I learned  that  this 
Northern  Road  is  already  begun,  and  that  a few  hun- 
dred men  are  now  at  work  on  the  eastern  end. 

On  account  of  Portland  capital,  the  Oregon  Cen- 
tral has  been  commenced  at  that  place.  But  it  will 


WESTERN  OREGON.  217 

not  long  be  the  Northern  termiuus — it  is  situated  too 
far  from  the  Columbia  River.  A point  for  the  Ore- 
gon Central  is  naturally  on  the  Columbia,  where  it 
will  connect  by  ferriage  with  a road  down  the  Cow- 
elitiz  Valley  from  Puget  Sound,  making  an  unbroken 
line  of  road  through  Washington,  Oregon  and  Cal- 
ifornia, to  San  Francisco. 

The  direction  of  the  Oregon  Central  is  as  yet  un- 
decided, whether  to  take  the  road  over  the  Calapooga, 
Umpaga  and  Siskiyon  Mountains  directly  southward, 
and  open  up  the  other  two  large  valleys  in  Oregon, 
or  to  commence  and  take  it  through  an  easy  pass 
through  the  Cascade  Mountains,  and  then  south  over 
a nearly  level  country  to  the  head  waters  of  the 
Sacramento.  This  would  be  the  cheapest,  and  could 
be  made  to  connect  with  the  Union  Pacific,  while  the 
other  could  take  in  its  course  some  of  the  most  desira- 
ble country  in  the  State.  Efforts  are  also  being  made 
to  get  a branch  road  from  the  Union  Pacific  to  con- 
nect the  upper  Columbia  at  Dalles,  Umatilla  or  Wal- 
lamet. 

No  part  of  our  territory  needs  a railroad  more 
than  Montana  and  Idaho,  which  this  road  would  give 
them,  and  they  are  willing  to  lend  their  material  aid  to 
any  company  to  get  easier  communication  with  the 
outer  world. 

France,  England  and  .Spain  had  been  looking  for 


248  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

the  great  “ River  of  the  West”  for  a hundred  years. 
At  the  very  time  when  Yankee  enterprise  was 
heading  its  little  vessel  through  the  white  breakers 
at  the  mouth  of  the  long  sought  river,  Vancouver, 
at  the  head  of  an  English  exploring  expedition,  was 
scanning  the  coast  not  far  away,  declaring  that  there 
whs  no  such  river. 

Lucky  man  was  Captain  Gray,  of  the  ship  Colum- 
bia, from  Boston.  His  stout  heart  and  adventurous 
# 

character  must  have  grown  large  with  anticipation 
and  dread  as  he  ran  for  the  “ opening,”  and  drove 
his  vessel  into  the  boisterous,  rolling  flood  straight 
through  the  real  channel  and  came  out  on  the  beau- 
tiful bay,  twenty-five  miles  by  six,  which  the  river 
forms  at  its  mouth,  in  1792,  the  first  keel  which  had 
ever  plowed  its  waters.  He  ascended  the  river  to 
the  Cascades,  and  on  his  return  found  the  British 
explorer,  who  had  ascended  the  river  one  hundred 
miles  to  the  place  now  bearing  his  name,  Vancouver. 
This  for  many  years  was  the  principal  post  of  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company,  on  the  Pacific,  where  one  of 
their  ships  arrived  annually  with  their  supplies, 
and  took  away  the  furs  and  whatever  else  was  ob- 
tained during  the  year  to  be  sent  home.  Thus 
began  the  commerce  of  our  Western  coast,  which 
now  whitens  every  sea. 

This  magnificent  bay  is  encased  by  high  hills,  loaded 


WESTERN  OREGON. 


249 

heavily  with  great  forests,  broken  by  projecting 
highlands,  making  other  smaller  bays  through  which 
ran  streams,  whose  valleys  were  far  away  among  the 
hills.  At  the  farthest  limit  of  vision  to  the  east, 
through  a dark  ridge  Sowed  down  the  wide  and  deep 
majestic  river,  whose  emination  and  course  was  as 
yet  a far  away  mystery;  but  it  was  evident,  by  the 
large  quantity  of  water,  that  it  drained  an  immense 
inland  country. 

With  the  foaming  brakers  behind,  and  smooth 
waters  before  him,  he  had  nothing  to  do  but  to 
wonder  and  admire  as  he  sailed  the  greatest  river 
of  the  West  one  hundred  and  forty  miles  to  the 
“ Cascades.”  If  he  fully  realized  the  importance  of 
his  discovery  to  the  world,  his  heart  must  have  dis- 
tended with  generous  pride,  and  he  a happy  man, 
while  he  glided  over  the  waters  of  the  majestic 
river. 

“ The  blue  Columbia,  sired  by  the  eternal  hills 
And  wedded  with  the  sea, 

O’er  golden  sands,  tithes  from  a thousand  rills, 

Rolled  in  lone  majesty. 

Through  deep  ravine,  through  burning,  barren  plain, 
Through  wild  and  rocky  strait, 

Through  forest  dark  and  mountain  rent  in  twain 
Toward  the  sunset  gate. 

While  curious  eyes,  keen  with  the  lust  of  gold, 

Caught  not  the  informing  gleam, 

These  mighty  brakers  age  on  age  have  rolled 
To  meet  this  mighty  stream. 


250  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

Age  after  age  these  noble  hills  have  kept 
The  same  majestic  lines ; 

Age  after  age  the  horizon’s  edge  been  swept 
By  fringe  of  pointed  pines. 

Summers  and  winters  circling  came  and  went, 
Bringing  no  change  of  scene; 

Unresting,  and  unhastening,  and  unspent, 

Dwelt  nature  here  serene. 

Till  God’s  own  time  to  plant  of  Freedom’s  seed, 
In  this  secluded  soil, 

Deigned  forever  unto  blood  and  greed, 

But  blessed  to  honest  toil. 

Be  mine  the  dreams  prophetic,  shadowing  forth 
The  things  that  yet  shall  be, 

When  through  the  gate  the  treasures  of  the  North 
Flow  outward  to  the  sea.” 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

THE  LOUISIANA  PURCHASE. 

The  Louisiana  Purchase  from  Napoleon  was  made 
by  President  Jefferson  in  1803,  for  fifteen  millions 
of  dollars.  It  included  the  present  State  of  Louisi- 
ana and  the  entire  country  west  of  the  Mississippi, 
between  the  Spanish  possessions  on  the  south  and 
British  America  on  the  north,  more  than  half  of  the 
present  area  of  the  United  States.  We  had  value 
received  then;  got  more  for  our  money  than  the  re- 
ceut  purchase  of  Alaska.  Comment  is  unneces- 
sary. • 

Shortly  after  the  purchase,  in  obedience  to  an 
act  of  Congress,  the  President  sent  Lewis  and 
Clark,  officers  in  the  United  States  army,  to  explore 
the  vast  and  unknown  region  which  he  had  added 
to  the  now  seemingly  small  republic.  The  principal 
purpose  of  the  expedition  was,  however,  to  ascer- 
tain the  possibility  of  a road  across  the  continent, 
the  inspection  of  the  pioneer  movement  for  a Pa- 
cific railway.  They  outfitted  at  the  then  little 
French  town  of  St.  Louis.  Steadily,  but  slowly  as- 
cending the  Missouri  to  its  sources  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  they  with  much  difficulty  crossed  the 


252  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

ranges  to  the  head  waters  of  the  Columbia  and  fol- 
lowed it  to  the  ocean.  It  was  a remarkable  under- 
taking at  the  time,  full  of  the  wildest  romance  and 
adventure  over  the  then  untrodden  continent  by 
white  men.  The  little  band  were  scouts  of  the  grand  ' 
army  now  after  the  “ Golden  Fleece.”  and  the  con- 
quest of  half. a hemisphere — the  army  of  civiliza- 
tion. 

The  adventurous  explorers  traveled  along  rivers 
in  rafts,  and  in  small  boats  of  their  own  construc- 
tion, sometimes  propelled  by  sails,  oars  and  tow- 
lines,  and  upon  the  land  on  horseback  and  on  foot. 
They  were  the  first  white  men  to  see  the  Great  Falls 
of  the  Missouri  and  go  through  the  gateways  of  the 
great  mountains,  and  to  discover'  and  explore  the 
great  River  of  the  West,  pass  all  its  whirlpools  and 
rapids  to  its  inhospitable  entrance  with  the  sea. 

After  an  absence  of  over  two  years  they  one© 
more  returned  to  the  place  from  whence  they 
started,  but  not  as  they  went  out,  neatly  shaven  and 
in  broadcloth;  they  looked  at  themselves,  and  the 
inhabitants  gazed  at  them,  who  had  long  been  given 
up  as  dead;  deceived  at  first  sight  by  their  cloth- 
ing of  skins  and  swarthy  faces,  supposing  them  to 
be  tee  wildest  of  all  the  Indians.  Rip  Van  Win- 
kle’s resurrection,  both  as  to  himself  and  his  old 
neighbors,  evaporates  into  thin  air  at  the  first  warm 


i 


THE  LOUISIANA  PURCHASE. 


25: 


rays  of  the  early  morning  sun,  when  compared  with 
the  wonderful  achievement  of  these  resurrected 
men  from  an  unknown  savage  land. 

Going  out  they  made  the  distance  from  the  mouth 
of  the  Missouri  to  the  month  of  the  Columbia,  four 
thousand  one  hundred  and  thirty-four  miles.  They 
returned  by  a nearer  route,  shortening;  it  to  three 
thousand  five  hundred  miles. 

Clark  was  a Kentuckian,  belonging  to  a family  of 
the  first  settlers,  whose  familiarity  with  Indian  war- 
fare and  character  especially  fitted  him  for  this  un- 
dertaking. He  was  the  military  director,  while 
Lewis  applied  himself  principally  to  scientific  in- 
vestigation. Subsequently  Clark  was  made  Briga- 
dier General,  Governor  of  Missouri  Territory,  and 
Superintendent  of  Indian  Affairs  under  President 
Monroe.  He  held  the  last  position  until  his  death 
in  St.  Louis,  in  1838. 

Lewis  was  a native  of  Virginia,  had  been  in 
the  army,  and  afterwards  Private  Secretary  to  Pres- 
ident Jefferson.  In  1 809  he  was  appointed  Governor 
of  Missouri  Territory.  He  found  that  quiet  life  un- 
endurable, and  fell  by  his  own  hand  at  a Tennessee 
inn,  at  the  early  age  of  thirty-five. 

The  unflinching  perseverance  and  daring  of  these 
explorers,  sent  forth  in  obedience  to  the  first  na- 
tional instinct,  which  has  now  culminated  in  that 


254 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


magnificent  work,  the  Trans-Continental  Railway, 
then  excited  the  warm  enthusiasm  of  their  country- 
men. The  government  recognized  and  appreciated 
their  services  by  giving  them  important  public 
offices,  and  Congress  made  large  grants  of  public 
land  to  each. 

It  would  seem  right  for  an  appreciative  people 
who  are  ever  ready  to  reward  real  merit  and  ap- 
preciate faithful  service,  to  erect  a suitable  monu- 
ment at  some  eligible  point  on  the  Pacific  Railway, 
to  perpetuate  in  a substantial  way  the  first  practical 
steps  of  this  remarkable  achievement.  Their  re- 
port describes  the  Great  Falls  of  Missouri  as  being 
two  thousand  five  hundred  miles  from  St.  Louis, 
within  the  limits  of  the  territory,  (now  Montana,) 
just  where  it  has  since  been  found — a sublime  spec- 
tacle, which,  since  the  creation,  has  been  lavishing 
its  magnificence  upon  a desert  unknown  to  civiliza- 
tion. 

Lewis  found  the  river  three  hundred  yards  wide, 
down  among  precipitous  rocks,  with  the  water  fall- 
ing eighty  feet.  On  the  north  the  current  was 
broken  by  jutting  rocks,  and  its  spray  rose  in  great 
snowy  clouds  arched  with  rainbows.  The  stream 
here  is  a series  of  descents  in  about  thirteen  miles 
of  cascades  and  rapids,  having  a fall  of  three  hun- 
dred and  eighty  feet.  The  upper  fall  is  forty  feet, 


THE  LOUISIANA  PURCHASE  255 

and  extends  across  the  river  in  a half-circle.  It  in 
picturesque  and  beautiful.  At  its  base  are  several 
small  falls  of  three  and  four  yards,  while  the  banks 
on  either  side  close  in  and  form  a deep  gorge  a thou- 
sand feet  below  the  barren  plain.  These  very  high 
walls  of  yellow  sandstone  give  impressiveness  to  the 
swiftly  falling  stream.  The  enraged  river  dashes 
over  the  lower  Great  Falls,  like  Niagara,  vailed  in 
snowy  foam.  The  abrupt  banks,  the  dazzling  inter- 
esting rainbows,  together  with  the  immense  volume 
of  water,  will  make  these  falls  a favorite  with  tour- 
ists when  good  facilities  are  made  to  reach  them. 


i 


i 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

INDIAN  TRIBES,  CHARACTER  AND  HABITS. 

The  reader  will  now  have  observed  that  we  have 
made  the  two  wings  of  our  great  Western  country 
from  the  eastern  central  base  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, while  it  yet  remains  for  us  to  return  and  take 
up  our  travel  through  the  middle  portion  from  where 
we  diverged. 

From  the  quiet  way  which  we  have  journeyed 
over  these  regions,  you  may  haye  supposed  that  all 
danger  from  within  by  the  red  man  of  the  plains  and 
mountains  was  averted,  which  is  quite  the  reverse. 
The  traveler  on  his  tour  through  such  a country  has 
but  little  time  to  write.  It  is  as  much  as  he  can  well 
do  to  “look  out  for  his  scalp,  and  for  something  to 
eat.”  Impressions,  however,  of  the  strongest  kind 
are  indelibly  made  by  the  changing  incidents  of 
savage  life,  and  a mind  that  can  ruminate  upon  them 
will  ever  find  abundant  materials  clinging  to  it  for 
endless  entertainment,  and  to  write  when  he  gets 
back,  to  unfold  the  web  which  the  shuttle  of  the 
mind  has  woven  with  the  thread  of  thought  in  the 
loom  of  memory  over  the  soul,  lifting  the  contem- 
plative mind  up  to  the  Great  Creator. 


INDIAN  TRIBES,  CHARACTER  AND  HABITS.  257 

We  have  reserved  what  we  think  proper  to  say 
as  to  the  natives,  to  be  given  together  in  a single 
chapter,  rather  than  to  give  scattered  items  and 
incidents  which  present  themselves  to  touiists  fre- 
quently while  in  the  land  of  these  original  inhabi 
tants. 

Much  has  been  written  of  the  North  American 
Indian — perhaps  too  much — and  while  his  defiant 
character,  his  wild,  natural  roving  existence,  and  his 
unhappy  fate  have  somewhat  inspired  the  historian 
and  the  poet,  his  simple  habits,  desires  and  senti- 
ments have  had  a charm  for  the  philosopher.  Yet, 
we  believe,  had  Fennimore  Cooper  lived,  and  had 
the  varied  experience  with  these  people  of  nature 
which  some  of  his  elder  brothers  have  bad,  the  world 
would  have  been  saved  a very  large  load  of  a little 
fact  and  a wonderful  amount  of  fiction. 

Subjects  of  far-fetched  narrations,  embellished  with 
the  most  choice  words  and  beautiful  thoughts,  often 
with  words  that  breathe  and  thoughts  that  burn, 
after  being  stripped  of  such  veneering  and  varnish 
are  very  diminutive  when  seen  and  known  in  their 
own  home.  The  far-fetched  beauty  and  greatness 
evaporates  in  light  mist.  Thus  it  is  with  the  West- 
ern Indians,  when  we  go  where  they  are,  and  almost 
live  with  them.  While  their  simplicity  excites  our 
sympathy,  the  truth  compels  me  to  ask,  What  can 


258 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


life  mean  to  them?  What  are  their  jovs  and  sor- 
rows, their  fears,  hopes  and  ambitions?  What  real 
benefit  are  they  to  the  world  for  being  in  it?  All 
their  desires  seem  to  be  centered  in  one,  and  that 
in  a voracious  appetite.  He  seems  to  know  noth- 
ing but  his  stomach — to  get  all  he  can  and  devour 
it.  The  Indian  judges  all  things  by  material  results; 
and  when  he  heeds  the  teachings  of  Christianity,  it 
is  to  better  his  physical,  rather  than  his  spiritual 
condition,  for  of  the  latter  he  has  a very  feeble  con- 
ception— only  so  far  as  he  can  better  his  animal  ex- 
istence. Hence,  his  attentiveness  to  the  white  man's 
preaching  about  his  wonderful  religion,  while  the  In- 
dian desired  such  a material  Heaven,  as  he  could  im- 
agine from  his  earthly  experience.  Heaven  was  to 
him*  a land  of  plenty;  therefore,  the  most  he  could 
desire  was  to  go  where  there  would  be  none  of  his 
bodily  wants  unsupplied.  This  reasoning  is  natur- 
al ; the  body  must  be  supplied  by  civilization,  be- 
fore the  wants  of  the  soul  can  be  developed  and  ap- 
preciated, for  it  is  the  unchangeable  law  of  Nature 
and  of  God.  Into  this  error  the  Missionaries  fell, 
who  went  early  among  the  Indian  tribes  of  the  Moun- 
tains. They  taught  religion  first,  and  every  day  mat- 
ters of  life  afterward — and  failure  was  the  result. 

My  experiences  with  these  people  were  both  un- 
pleasant and  agreeable.  A little  unpleasant,  and  al- 


INDIAN  TRIBES,  CHARACTER  AND  HABITS.  25U 

so  a little  dangerous,  when  they  came  down  upon 
us  on  the  plains  a few  miles  above  Julesburg.  The 
spectacle  presented,  as  they  came  at  full  speed  on 
horseback,  painted,  their  long  bushy  hair  flying 
straight  out  behind,  with  bedaubed  faces,  armed, 
brandishing  their  ready  guns,  and  yelling  in  old  In- 
dian style — wild  and  hideous  as  it  was  possible  for 
even  Indians  to  look — was  one  which  would  strike 
with  a palsy,  at  least,  the  inexperienced  heart  and 
arm.  What  could  four  poorly  armed  men,  with  one 
woman  and  two  children  (our  coach  load)  do  against 
a band  of  warriors  like  these  in  full  fighting  trim? 
They  evidently  intended  to  have  headed  us  off,  tak- 
ing advantage  of  location;  but  they  either  did  not  get 
to  their  chosen  place  as  soon  as  they  intended,  or  we 
passed  along  the  mountain  faster  than  they  calcula- 
ted; for  when  they  rose  on  the  crest  of  the  range,  we 
had  passed  a little  above  them,  so  that  they  were 
obliged  to  follow  us,  and  the  race  was  one  for  life. 
In  this  ca3e  the  race  was  truly  with  the  swift,  as 
they  had  the  battle  all  on  their  side.  We  had  six 
large,  fine  horses,  fleet,  fat  and  strong,  with  a good 
smooth  road  after  passing  the  place  where  they  de- 
signed to  head  us  off.  The  race  was  short,  but  one 
of  great  speed.  We  gained  an  adobe  residence  about 
a mile  and  a half  ahead,  strongly  fortified  by  an  out- 
or  wall,  where  we  were  °ecure — not,  however,  as  we 


260 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


started,  for  one  of  the  party  was  no  more — a well- 
directed  bullet  from  an  Indian  rifle  went  through 
his  breast,  and  death  was  instantaneous.  He  was 
riding  the  telegraph  operator’s  horse,  in  the  rear  of 
the  stage,  while  the  telegrapher  was  on  the  seat 
with  the  driver,  wishing  to  send  by  him  some  buei 
ness  to  Denver.  The  Indians  came  dashing  down  so 
suddenly,  he  not  seeing  them  as  soon  as  the  eagle- 
eyed  driver,  who  was  on  the  constant  lookout  for 
them,  was  cut  off  from  escape.  This  capture  gave 
them  a good  suit  of  clothes,  a fine  horse,  a rifle,  two 
horse  pistols  and  a full  set  of  telegraph  instruments. 

We  had  seen  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Platte 
during  the  previous  day,  several  small  parties  of  In- 
dians back  in  the  foot-hills,  and  at  one  place  they 
dashed  down,  surrounded  a freighter’s  oxen  who  had 
stopped  close  on  the  bank  of  the  river  and  turned 
the  cattle  out  to  feed  for  noon,  and  hastily  drove 
them  back  in  the  mountains,  and  left  him  alone  with 
his  wagons  and  yokes. 

We  continued  on  till  we  came  to  a small  collec- 
tion of  men  in  the  road,  who  informed  us  that  the 
whole  stage  load  coming  east  had  been  killed  but  a 
little  while  before.  The  Indians  had  secreted  them 
selves  in  an  abandoned  station  of  the  stage  company, 
where  they  were  not  discovered  until  the  fatal  vol- 
ley was  fired,  and  the  immortal  spiiits  traveled  to 


INDIAN  TRIBES  CHARACTER  AND  HABITS.  261 

another  world.  They  denuded  the  bodies,  scalped 
them,  took  the  horses  and  such  portions  of  the  har- 
ness and  coach  trimmings  as  they  wanted,  and  left 
all  the  rest  lying  on  the  ground. 

We  had  a >hort  consultation  as  to  what  was  best  to 
be  done,  and  concluded  to  return  back  to  the  station 
6ix  miles,  and  remain  over  night,  which  we  did, 
Starting  next  morning,  we  had  ne  about  five  miles, 
when  they  came  upon  us.  Had  our  stage  arrived 
at  their  murderous  place  first,  we  would  have  been 
their  victims  instead  of  the  other  load,  as  they  I ad 
chosen  a place  nearly  where  the  two  stages  pas9 
each  other.  We  could  not  stand  many  scenes  like 
this;  yet  I do  not  design  to  undertake  to  put  up 
on  paper  such  a gloomy,  heart-sickening  description. 
But  the  deep  impressions  made  then  and  there,  will 
live  as  long  as  those  who  beheld  it,  and  they  will  be 
thankful  that  it  was  not  themselves.  This  is  but  one 
of  the  close  chances  of  life,  which  travelers  were  con- 
stantly taking  while  journeying  about  the  country 
at  this  time. 

It  is  not  my  purpose  to  trouble  the  reader  with 
any  more  narrow  escapes  of  life,  which  were  encoun- 
tered during  the  two  years  and  over,  that  I was  in 
and  about  the  country.  Several  times,  the  two*edg 
ed  sword  seemed  to  be  suspended  with  a single  hair 
over  rny  head.  Yet,  thanks  be  to  God  who  gave  me 


2G2 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


the  victory,  I escaped  unscathed,  and  left  the  coun- 
try with  much  stouter  health  than  I had  ever  had 
before. 

There  is  one  element  in  Indian  character  which  I 
am  quite  persuaded  has  been  misunderstood  or  falsely 
represented;  that  is  heroism.  Instead  of  having  a 
commendable  patriotic  courage,  which  demands  of  us 
respect,  he  has  an  unfeeling,  savage,  brutal,  stoical 
insensibility,  to  confound  which  with  commendable 
heroism  would  be  to  destroy  the  distinction  between 
the  civilized  and  the  savage. 

Would  any  one  dignify  with  the  name  of  heroism 
the  conduct  of  the  Spartan  boy,  who  having  stolen 
the  fox,  concealed  it  under  his  clothes  till  it  ate 
into  his  body,  rather  than  betray  the  theft.  This  is 
the  kind  of  courage  for  which  the  Indian  has  received 
so  much  unmerited  praise.  They  do  not  anywhere, 
from  Mexico  to  the  British  Possessions,  seem  to  have 
any  of  the  better  feelings  of  a common  humanity, 
notwithstanding  the  many  opportunities  some  of 
them  have  had.  There  are  some  few  exceptions, 
but  I speak  of  them  generally.  A person  is  among 
portions  of  the  scattered  tribes  from  the  time  he 
enters  this  far  West  country,  more  or  less,  till  he 
leaves  it.  A few  hang  about  every  place  where 
there  is  any  chance  to  pick  up  a subsistence.  They 
are  friendly  when  not  on  the  war  path,  and  a person 


INDIAN  TRIBES,  CHARACTER  AND  HABITS.  263 

takes  no  risk  meeting  or  being  with  them.  Ever 
begging,  ever  hungry,  self  is  all  the  world  and  all 
there  is  of  it  to  him.  We  have  sometimes  thought 
that  if  he  had  been  where  a certain  other  individual 
was,  he  would  have  swallowed  the  whale  instead  of 
the  whale  swallowing  him. 

My  acquaintance  and  observation  while  with  sev- 
eral tribes  of  these  children  of  nature,  has  been  such 
as  to  cause  me  not  to  yield  implicitly  to  the  exag- 
gerations of  romance,  and  those  traits  which  the 
license  of  song  has  assumed,  will,  in  most  instances, 
disappear  before  the  scrutiny  of  real  unbiased  in- 
vestigation. The  savage-like  Falstaff  is  by  nature  a 
coward;  also  treacherous,  cruel  and  filthy.  Toshow 
fear  is  to  sharpen  his  appetite  for  blood.  A deter- 
mined coolness  confounds  and  awes  him  when  any- 
thing will.  He  will  never  stand  up  before  deter- 
mined courage,  and  never  make  an  attack  unless  he 
has  a decided  advantage  in  position,  Bradock-like 
and  usually  in  numbers.  The  inhuman  masacre  in 
1847  of  Dr.  Whitman,  wife  and  children,  together 
with  many  others,  at  the  Waiilatput,  Mission,  now  in 
Northern  Idaho,  is  but  one  of  many  heartrending 
bloody  tragedies  which  the  faithful  missionaries 
have  suffered  while  endeavoring  to  give  them  the 
principles  of  a better  life.  We  have  selected  I)r. 
Whitman's  case  as  a specimen  only  for  what  has 


264  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

been  re-enacted  so  often  from  early  time  to  the 
present. 

This  devout  and  faithful  disciple,  together  with 
his  amiable  wife,  had  labored  with  these  natives, 
and  been  a father  and  mother  to  them  for  elevei 
long  years,  and  the  very  ones  they  had  taken  in  the 
Mission,  and  almost  into  the  family,  when  the  dread- 
ful time  came  were  among  the  first  brutes  to  dip 
their  hands  in  the  blood  of  their  benefactors. 
Doubtless,  the  reader  remembers  the  horrible  tragedy 
enacted  at  this  mission,  together  with  others  in 
Northern  Oregon  about  this  time.  There  seemed 
to  be  a combination  among  the  tribes  to  drive  or 
exterminate  the  whites  from  their  country,  as  they 
claimed.  A detailed  narration  of  the  horrors  of  the 
Waiilatput  massacre,  together  with  the  individual 
sufferings  of  the  captives  whose  lives  were  saved, 
would  fill  a volume  as  large  as  this. 

It  is  my  purpose  to  give  these  people  only  a 
passing  notice,  and  to  give  a few  characteristic 
features  as  they  impressed  themselves  upon  m^ 
mind,  and  then  leave  them.  As  to  the  Indians’ 
moral  nature,  that  is  nearly  alike  everywhere,  with 
few  exceptions;  all  are  cruel  and  treacherous.  His 
gospel  is  literally  the  “ gospel  of  blood.”  “An  eye 
for  an  eye,  and  a tooth  for  a tooth.”  Vengeance  is 
his  first  commandment,  and  indeed  so  is  the  Christ- 
ian’s whole  deealogrne. 


INDIAN  TRIBES,  CHARACTER  AND  HABITS.  265 

“Under  the  general  name  of  Blackfeet  are  com- 
prehended several  tribes,  such  as  the  Surcies.  the 
Pigeons,  the  Blond  Indians,  and  the  Gros  Ventries 
of  the  Prairies,  who  roam  about  the  southern  branches 
of  the  Yellow  Stone  and  Missouri  Rivers,  together 
with  some  other  tribes  further  north.  The  bands 
infesting  the  Wind  River  Mountains,  and  the  coun- 
try adjacent,  at  the  time  we  are  treating,  were  Gros 
Yen  ties  of  the  Prairies,  which  are  not  to  be  con- 
founded with  the  Gros  Ventres  of  the  Missouri,  who 
keep  about  the  lower  part  of  the  river,  and  are 
friendly  to  the  white  men.  This  hostile  oand  keeps 
about  the  head  waters  of  the  Missouri,  and  numbers 
about  nine  hundred  fighting  men.  Once  in  the 
course  of  two  or  three  years  they  abandon  their 
usual  abodes  and  make  a visit  to  the  Arapahoes  ot 
the  Arkansas.  Their  route  lies  either  through  the 
Crow  country  and  the  Black  Hills,  or  through  the 
lands  ot  the  Nez  Perces,  Flatheads,  Bannacks  and 
Sho^honees.  As  they  enjoy  the  r favorite  state  of 
hostility  with  all  these  tribes,  their  expeditions  re 
prone  to  be  conducted  in  the  most  lawless  and  pre- 
datory style;  nor  do  they  hesitate  to  extend  their 
maraudings  to  any  party  of  white  men  they  meet 
with,  following  their  trail,  hovering  about  their 
camps,  waylaying  and  dogging  the  caravans  of  the 
free  traders  ai.d  murdering  the  solitary  trapper. 


266  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

• 

The  consequences  are  frequent  and  desperate  fights 
between  them  and  the  mountaineers  in  the  wild  de- 
files and  fastnesses  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Such 
were  the  Blackfeet,  nor  has  their  disposition  changed 
but  very  little  to  this  day,  as  many  Montana  miners 
know  to  their  sorrow. 

While  in  the  Middle  Park,  Colorado,  there  where 
encamped  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Colorado  a 
tribe  of  Utes,  between  five  and  six  hundred,  where 
were 

“ Mongrels,  puppies,  whelps  and  hounds, 

And  curs  of  low  degree,” 

who  are  quite  peaceful  and  long  suffering  towards 
the  whites;  consequently  I could  go  among  and  be 
with  them  with  safety  and  freedom. 

I had  the  satisfaction  to  witness  here  one  of  those 
mysterious  exhibitions  of  a “ medicine  man”  over  one 
of  his  dying  brothers.  Their  first  prescriptions 
are  roots  and  herbs,  of  which  they  have  quite  a 
variety  of  species,  and  when  these  have  failed  their 
last  resort  is  “ medicine”  or  mystery.  These  pro- 
fessional gentlemen  are  of  the  highest  order  in  their 
tribes,  and  some  acquire  skill  in  the  medicinal  world 
and  large  honors  in  their  nation.  In  this  case  the 
old  Indian  was  rapidly  approaching  his  final  end, 
and  was  nearly  expiring,  when  the  great  “medicine 
man”  appears  in  his  strange  and  wonderful  dress. 


INDIAN  TRIBES,  CHARACTER  AND  HABITS.  2t)7 

conjured  up  and  fabricated  during  many  life  times 
of  practice,  and  is  the  wildest  and  most  fantastic 
that  can  be  imagined,  in  which  he  envelops  himself 
and  makes  his  last  visit  to  his  dying  patient,  per- 
forming over  and  about  him  a numberless  amount 
of  charms  in  a mysterious  way.  But  it  was  the  de- 
cree of  the  Great  Spirit  that  his  patient  should  die, 
and  it  was  beyond  his  mysterious  efforts  to  save 
him,  although  he  was  supposed  to  know  everything 
from  the  “ Cedar  of  Lebanon  to  the  hissop  upon  the 
wall.’7 

To  make  a “ medicine  man”  or  doctor  is  very 
much  alike  in  most  tribes,  and  to  qualify  him  to  be 
a son  of  Esculapeus  and  practice  his  profession,  he 
must  take  the  discipline  of  their  medical  college, 
which  is  similar  to  some  preachers  in  making  a con- 
vert. A general  camp  meeting  is  held  for  several 
nights,  during  which  ai  e various  performances,  such  as 
dancing,  hopping,  screaching,  incantations,  extreme 
bodily  exercises  and  nervous  excitement,  sufficient 
to  make  many  patients  instead  of  a doctor.  The 
constitution  of  the  native  is  a strong  one,  and  is 
capable  of  great  physical  endurance.  Ultimately, 
however,  one  or  more  are  overcome  with  superhu- 
man power  which  enters  into  him  at  that  time, 
and  instead  of  making  him  a saint,  he  is  only 
a superstitious  or  mysterious  Indian  doctor.  He 


268  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

is  not  yet  fully  qualified;  he  must  attend  many 
courses  of  lectures,  go  through  many  mysterious 
performances  before  he  is  graduated  and  allowed  to 
heal  the  sick,  to  prophesy,  dream  dreams,  and  give 
victory  to  his  people. 

In  that  great  characteristic  of  all  ancient  and 
modern  civilization  in  which  other  barbarians  have 
not  been  so  deficient,  brave  as  he  might  be  in  battle, 
skillful  as  he  might  be  in  the  chase,  stoical  as  he 
might  be  under  the  most  cruel  torture,  he  will  im 
pose  upon  his  squaw  (wife)  the  most  menial  services; 
would  give  her  censure,  and  sometimes  blows,  in- 
stead of  acts  of  assistance  and  words  of  affection. 
Those  tribes  that  had  been  long  since  favored  with 
a sprinkling  of  civilization  seem  to  have  not  profited 
in  the  least  as  it  regards  the  treatment  of  their  fe- 
males, all  slaves.  The  fabulous  stories  of  civiliza- 
tion had  not  changed  their  simple  hearts  in  this 
regard.  The  Indian  by  nature  is  lordly  and  tyran- 
nical in  his  treatment  ot  women,  often  beating  them 
unmercifully,  and  sometimes  those  not  of  their  own 
household. 

The  tourist,  through  any  of  the  tribes  over  the 
country,  will  often  see  these  degraded  females 
packed  with  all  their  worldly  effects,  (and  perhaps 
some  of  the  younger  members  of  the  family  also) 
upon  her  back  when  moving,  while  her  great  lord 


INDIAN  MEDICINE  MAN. 


INDIAN  Tx.lBES,  CHARACTER  AND  HABITS. 


269 


and  Indian  master,  unencumbered,  save  his  gun  or 
bow  and  arrows,  walks  as  proudly  as  one  having  a 
little  brief  authority  and  monarch  of  all  he  surveyed. 
One  would  suppose  that  the  Indian  husband,  when 
judged  by  the  high  and  humane  standard  of  Chris- 
tianity, is  to  his  wife  like  an  island  with  a stream  of 
cold  water  flowing  around  him — not  a part  of  the 
main  land  of  domestic  happiness.  The  Indian’s 
lordliness  and  oppression  to  their  females  I am  per- 
suaded is  not  caused  from  the  want  of  native  affec- 
tion, but  from  legendary  habit.  They  seem  to  think 
it  right,  as  a matter  of  course,  having  never  known 
differently.  They  never  can  be  made  to  paddle  their 
Indian  canoe  kindly  on  that  stream  which  runs  sleep- 
less night  and  day,  gliding  through  the  beautiful 
reclining  meadow  of  a higher,  intelligent,  Christian- 
ized domestic  life,  such  as  is  expressed  in  the  fol- 
owing  stanzas: 

Thou  art  on  my  bosom  sleeping, 

Gentle  trusting  wife  of  mine; 

And  mine  eyes  are  fondly  keeping 
Love’s  unwavering  watch  o’er  thine  ! 

Hushed  shall  be  my  very  breath, 

While  thy  dear  heart  slumbereth. 

Sleepest  thou  as  slept  in  Eden, 

Slept  in  beauty  holy  E /e — 

Ere  her  soul  with  grief  was  laden — 
l re  her  bosom  could  deceive  ; 

Wife  ! may  thou  thus  ever  be— 

Grief  and  guile  unknown  to  thee. 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


Clasped  upon  thy  gentle  bosom, 

Now  thy  white  hands  gently  rest, 
Even  as  leaves  around  the  blossom 
Of  a slumb’ring  rose  are  prest ; 
Blossom  of  my  life  thou  art — 

Thine,  dear  love,  a rose-bud  heart. 

Hound  thy  neck  my  arm  is  wreathing — 
Softly  to  thy  lips  I bow ; 

And  the  perfume  of  thy  breathing 
Plays  upon  my  bending  brow. 

Gentle  wife  ! that  fragrance  breathes, 
From  the  sweetness  of  thy  soul. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 


t 

INDIANS  MAKE  A RAID  0N  THE  ROAD—  A WEEK  AT  ELK 
HORN  STATION — THE  HUNTER  AND  TRAPPER — 
INCIDENTS  IN  HIS  LIFE. 

As  usual,  the  Indians  had  made  a dash  on  the  road 
the  first  of  the  season — in  June,  1807 — and  more  des- 
perate than  any  before.  The  line  was  broken  up  for 
sixty  miles  ahead,  the  stations  burned,  the  stage 
stock  drawn  off,  and  all  killed  that  did  not  make  their 
escape.  We  were  obliged  to  remain  a week  at  a 
stage  station  near  old  Fort  Hallack,  in  the  northern 
part  of  Colorado,  before  a sufficient  number  of  men 
were  collected  to  undertake  an  advance. 

The  Stage  Company  employ,  through  this  out  of 
the  way  portion  of  the  road,  hunters  whose  business 
it  is  to  furnish  meat  for  a certain  number  of  stations. 
They  are  either  hired,  or  sell  the  meat  by  the  pound 
to  them.  Where  we  stopped,  “ Elkhorn  Station, : ” was 
one  of  these  hunters,  by  the  name  of  Anderson,  who 
furnished  within  himself  a goo  1 spec  m *n,  the  very 
material  of  which  the  heroes  of  the  wilderness,  moun- 
tains, traps  and  hunts,  are  made.  Like  Kit  Carson, 
all  bone  and  muscle — a kind  of  grayhound  constitu- 
tion. He  was  one  of  those  who  had  trapped  and 
hunted  about  and  over  the  country  for  many  years, 


272 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


and  could  not,  or  would  not  live  away  from  the  wild 
life  in  the  mountains. 

He  was  one  of  those  few  survivors  of  that  some- 
what mysterious  class  of  old  mountaineers  which 
traveled  in  our  imaginations  more  than  reality;  who 
are  walking  cyclopedias  of  almost  mysterious  escapes 
and  exciting  adventures— unbound  volumes  of  trav- 
el, incident  and  romance.  Buffalo  hunts;  desperate 
encounters  with  grizzly  bears;  remarkable  wander- 
ings among  the  mountains  when  lost;  without  food; 
miraculous  endurance  and  hardships;  hand  to  hand 
wounds  in  deadly  fights  with  Indians — but  he  even 
had  been  captured  after  so  many  hairbreadth  es- 
capes from  outward  enemies. 

He,  like  many  others  of  the  kind,  had  been  sus- 
ceptible to  the  charms  of  these  dusky  beauties  of 
mountains  and  plains,  had  set  up  for  himself  a wieky- 
up , as  a family  man.  This  is  the  only  authorit}7  ac- 
knowledged by  an  old  mountaineer.  She  usually  con- 
trolled in  the  lodge,  (log  house  now,)  regardless  of 
her  lord’s  bluster  outside.  He  was  tho  travelers 
American  Fur  Company,  and  I took  greet  pleasure 
in  visiting  his  cabin,  as  he  had  a retentive  memo- 
ry, could  relate  the  most  interesting  portions  of  his 
mountain  life — while  we  at  the  East  roamed  the 
country  in  imagination,  only  as  that  great  com* try 
beyond  the  West  where  the  fur  trader  went  for  hi s 


ELKHORN  STATION. 


278 

peltry,  and  the  home  of  the  adventurous  trapper  and 
Indians. 

When  meat  was  needed,  he  would  take  his  hor- 
ses — one  to  ride,  and  the  other  with  a hunter’s  pack- 
saddle,  so  made  that  quarters  of  meat  could  be  hung 
upon  it — and  go  far  away  in  the  mountains  for  elk 
and  antelope,  and  never  return  without  meat. 

I asked  him  how  it  was  possible  for  him  to  escape 
the  Indians?  He  said  he  always  traveled  on  high 
ground,  on  the  ridges,  that  he  could  better  see  his 
game  and  enemies;  never  allowed  himself  to  be  am- 
bushed, and  that  the  red-skins  had  long  since  learn- 
ed, that  to  attack  an  old  hunter,  where  he  had  a 
chance,  was  sure  death  to  some  of  their  number.  A 
true  mountain-man,  he  said,  repudiated  fear;  he  would 
fight,  even  against  superior  numbers,  for  the  Indians 
had  both  fear  and  respect  for  a man  who  had  deter- 
mined courage — who  asked  no  quarter,  and  would 
neither  give  it  to  others.  “ Why,”  said  he,  “ I once 
made  over  a hundred  of  the  brave  Blackfoot  Indians 
run.”  “ How  could  that  be  possible  ?”  I asked.  “It 
was  a year  when  the  coppered  devils  were  unusual- 
ly hostile,  and  took  the  top  of  the  head  off  of  every 
white  man  they  could  catch.  When  out  hunting  on 
a fleet  horse,  I suddenly  came  upon  a war  party  of 
them.  I turned  and  ran,  and  they  all  chased  me  !" 

Trappers  usually  go  to  the  head  of’  streams,  far  up 


274 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


in  the  mountains  early  in  the  fall,  where  they  begin 
their  trapping,  and  descend  the  stream  as  the  weatb 
er  becomes  colder,  and  finally  winter  in  the  valley. 

There  are  three  kinds  of  trappers.  The  genuine 
free  trapper  regards  himself  as  superior  to  the  other 
two.  He  owned  his  own  horses,  traps,  arms  and 
ammunition,  and  all  the  appliances  appertaining  to 
the  business.  He  took  whatever  route  he  thought 
offered  the  best  success;  hunted  and  trapped  wherev 
er  he  pleased;  traded  with  whoever  offered  highest 
prices  for  his  furs;  dressed  gaily  in  the  style  of  the 
country;  moved  in  the  first  society,  and  occasionally 
one  of  this  highest  order  of  nobility  had  been  lucky 
enough  to  spring  his  trap  and  catch  an  Indian  wife. 
Should  the  free  trapper  have  a wife,  she  went  with 
the  camp  to  which  he  attached  himself,  furnished 
with  one  of  the  best  horses,  elegantly  equipped  (in 
their  style)  and  dressed  in  the  best  goods  the  coun- 
try afforded — unusually  ornamented  with  beads,  red 
ribbons,  buckskin  fringes  and  feathers.  She  was 
truly  Fifth  Avenue  society,  both  in  her  own  estima- 
tion, and  also  in  the  eyes  of  her  tribe,  and  saved  her 
from  that  slavish  drudgery  to  which  she  would  have 
been  subjected,  had  she  been  the  wife  of  an  Indian. 

Another  class  of  free  trappers,  who  were  furnish- 
ed with  their  outfit  by  the  company  for  whom  they 
trapped,  were  obliged  to  agree  to  a certain  stipula- 


ELKHORN  STATION. 


275 


ted  price  for  their  furs,  before  the  trapping  and  hunt- 
ing commenced.  The  hired  trapper  by  a company 

# 

was  regularly  indentured — bound  to  hunt  and  trap 
faithfully  for  his  employers,  and  to  do  anything  else 
required  of  him  in  the  field  and  camp — to  do  every 
duty — a man  servant. 

I had  a curiosity  to  know  what  was  done  with  the 
peltry  while  they  were  trapping  and  moving  long 
distances  over  the  country.  Where  a sufficient 
amount  has  been  obtained,  a pit  is  dug  in  the  ground 
six  or  seven  feet  deep;  then  a drift  is  made  at  the 
bottom  under  the  solid  earth,  where  a room  is  exca-# 
vated  of  sufficient  size  to  hold  the  furs,  in  which  they 
are  placed,  and  the  apartment  is  closed  up;  then  the 
hole  is  filled  with  earth,  and  all  traces  of  digging 
removed.  These  catches  are  the  only  store-house 
of  the  hunter. 

Having  to  remain  here  at  the  station  so  long,  I 
took  especial  care  to  make  the  acquaintance  of  the 
hunter — now  my  friend;  but  who  prided  himself, 
most  of  all,  on  having  been  a “ mountain  man,”  and 
in  relating  the  most  striking  incidents  of  his  hunt- 
ing and  trapping  life,  from  Mexico  to  British  Amer- 
ica, and  the  Mississippi  to  the  Pacific.  The  daring 
and  reckless  side  of  a story,  is  the  only  one  dwelt 
upon  in  narrating  his  and  other’s  hardships  and  dar- 
ing deeds,  and  narrow  escapes  of  life,  which  he  is 


27G 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


now  ready  to  declare  was  only  so  much  pastime. 
He  did  not,  in  his  romantic  and  interesting  narra- 
tions— extending  over  many  years  in  these  then  dis- 
tant and  lawless  wilds — attempt  to  disguise  the  fact, 
that  he  had  done  as  a mountain  man,  “ those  things 
which  he  ought  not  to  have  done,  and  left  undone 
those  things  which  he  ought  to  have  done.” 

Upon  examining  my  notes  taken  at  the  time,  with 
the  aid  of  memory,  a few  incidents  in  the  history  of 
this  kind  of  life  will  be  given,  to  “ tell  the  tale  as 
Twas  told  to  me.”  After  a camp  is  organized,  and 
is  on  the  march,  a military  discipline  is  observed;  a 
leader  is  chosen,  known  as  a “ Booshway,”  whose  bu- 
siness it  is  to  take  the  supervision — look  after  the 
condition  of  the  whole  camp;  who  goes  in  advance  of 
the  column.  Near  him  is  a led  mule,  of  known  speed 
and  trustworthiness;  he  is  the  portable  office  of  the 
company;  carries  the  books,  papers  and  the  agree- 
ments with  their  men.  Then  follow  the  pack  ani- 
mals, each  bearing  three  packs,  snugly  fastened,  so 
as  not  to  slip  in  traveling.  These  are  in  charge  of 
men  called  camp-keepers. 

The  trappers  and  hunters  have  two  horses  or  mules 
each — one  to  ride  and  the  other  to  take  their  traps. 
ShouJd  there  be  women  or  children  in  the  caravan, 
they  are  all  mounted.  If  the  oountry  is  safe,  the 
caravan  moves  carelessly,  and  sometimes  scattered. 


ELKHORN  STATION. 


277 

But  should  danger  he  apprehended,  the  whole  p >rt\ 
move  in  compact  column,  fully  prepared  to  resist  any 
attack  which  could  be  made  against  them.  A “lit- 
tle Booshway,”  as  ho  is  called,  brings  up  the  rear  of 
the  party,  whose  business  is  to  see  to  the  order  and 
condition  of  the  camp,  and  that  nothing  is  left  be- 
hind on  the  way.  When  it  is  time  to  camp  for  the 
night  the  leader  stops,  and  selects  a space  which  is  to 
be  devoted  to  himself,  in  its  center.  The  others,  as 
fast  as  they  arrive  form  a circle,  the  last  man  bring- 
ing up  the  rear  to  see  that  all  are  there.  The  ani- 
mals are  quickly  unpacked  and  turned  out  to  grass, 
being  guarded,  but  when  night  approaches  they  are 
brought  within  the  circle  and  picketed,  by  driving 
a stake  in  the  ground,  to  which  a rope  is  fastened. 
The  men  are  then  divided  into  messes,  as  in  milita- 
ry camp.  That  part  of  camp  business  which  con- 
sisted of  eating  was  not  one  of  very  much  complica- 
tion, where  the  only  article  of  food  is  meat  raw,  roast- 
ed or  dried.  At  a specified  time,  all  is  quiet  in 
camp,  and  the  guard  only  is  awake. 

During  the  night,  the  officer  of  the  guard  gives 
the  guard  a challenge,  “ All’s  well!”  which  is  answer- 
ed by  all,  “ All's  well !”  At  daylight,  after  a horse- 
man has  galloped  at  a distance  aroui  d the  camp,  to 
see  if  all  is  safe,  the  horses  are  turned  out  to  feed, 
closely  guarded  ; after  which,  they  are  driven  up, 


278 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


repacked,  the  men  mounted,  and  the  train  again 
moves  off  in  the  usual  order.  In  a winter  encamp- 
ment, the  leader  and  the  second  man  occupy  about 
the  same  positions.  Other  regulations  are  observed. 

The  business  of  the  trapper  during  the  season  of 
trapping  is  only  to  trap  and  look  after  his  two  horses, 
and  when  he  returns  at  night  he  takes  his  beavers 
to  the  clerk,  where  they  are  counted  and  placed  to 
his  credit.  The  camp  men  take  off  the  skins  and 
prepare  them  for  packing.  While  they  are  in 
camp  there  are  six  persons  to  each  lodge,  four  trap- 
pers and  two  camp-keepers;  consequently  the  trap- 
pers are  well  cared  for,  having  but  little  to  do 
aside  from  occasionally  hunting  for  the  camp. 
When  the  hunters  return  with  a quantity  of  meat 
it  is  deposited  in  front  of  the  Booshway’s  lodge, 
and  the  second  man  cuts  it  in  pieces,  or  causes  it  to 
be  done.  When  the  men  come  they  turn  their 
backs  to  the  pile,  and  the  “smaller  Booshway”  takes 
a piece,  and  holding  it  up,  asks:  “ Who  will  have 
this?’’  The  man  answering  says,  “Number  ten/’  or 
fifteen,  meaning  his  lodge.  The  number  is  then 
called  to  come  for  the  meat.  In  this  impartial 
blind  way  the  meat  is  distributed,  and  it  is  a way 
which  must  be  satisfactory  to  all. 

A gun  is  never  fired  in  camp  under  any  circum- 
stances short  of  un  Indian  attack.  The  guns  are 


ELKHORN  STATION. 


279 


regularly  inspected,  like  those  of  a well  regulated 
army,  and  any  lack  of  care  in  this  regard  is  followed 
by  a fine,  and  is  charged  to  the  account  of  the  care- 
less camp-keeper. 

When  the  camp  breaks  up  in  the  spring,  the  skins 
used  during  the  winter  for  lodges  being  thoroughly 

v 

dried  and  smoked  by  lodge  fires,  they  do  not  shrink 
» by  water  like  new  hides,  and  are  cut  up  and  made 
into  moccasins.  This  is  an  important  condition,  as 
trappers  are  very  much  in  the  water.  A new  hide 
would  shrink  after  becoming  dry,  so  that  it  would 
be  useless  for  this  purpose  without  being  soaked 
each  time  after  becoming  dry.  The  trapper,  for  the 
same  reason,  is  obliged  to  remove  the  bottom  of  his 
buckskin  breeches  and  replace  them  with  blanket 
leggings,  which  he  wears  during  the  trapping  season. 

Life  in  the  Rocky  Mountains  at  this  time  (1836) 
was  one  constant  battle  ground,  and  a rigid  military 
discipline  had  to  be  constantly  maintained.  Con- 
stant vigilance  all  over  the  country  was  truly  the 
price  of  life  and  property. 

The  frequent  incidents  of  a trapper's  life  fur- 
nishes material  which  needs  little  embellishment  to 
make  interesting  narrations,  both  to  while  a^way 
the  winter  evening  in  the  camp,  and  to  somewhat 
astonish  the  far  away  reader  in  his  secure  and  happy 
home. 


280 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


The  winter  rendezvous  of  the  American  Fur  Com- 
pany this  winter  was  on  the  Yellow  Stone  River, 
where  it  makes  a long  turn  to  the  south  and  east, 
enclosing  a large  prairie  covered  with  good  grass, 
having  extensive  cotton  wood  bottoms,  a favorite 
place  of  the  Company’s  to  make  their  winter  en- 
campment. Our  hunter  made  up  one  of  this  camp, 
and  while  out  trapping  with  two  others  on  one  of* 
the  branches  of  the  river,  a somewhat  interesting 
adventure  befell  the  little  party.  Having  killed  a fat 
buffalo  cow  in  the  afternoon,  they  cut  out  the  most 
choice  parts,  made  a camp  in  a small  grove,  partook 
liberally  of  their  meat,  the  remaining  store  of  choice 
pieces  were  divided  and  placed,  after  the  manner  of 
hunters,  under  their  heads,  betaking  themselves  to 
their  blanket  couches  for  the  night,  while  the  snow 
was  falling  about  and  over  them.  Being  now  filled 
with  the  creature  comfort,  their  ever  ready  gun  be- 
side them,  no  Indians  or  wild  animals  disturbed 
“ nature’s  sweet  restorer,”  sleep. 

Our  hero  trapper  was  awakened  about  day- 
light by  something  walking  over  Lira  heavily 
and  snuffing  about  his  head,  with  familiarity  and  3 
mo8,t  insulting  freedom.  It  was  not  long  before  his 
Yankee  powers  of  guessing  determined  who  the 
early  morning  intruder  might  be.  It  was  disagree- 
ably certain  that  an  old  grizzly  bear,  whose  keen 


BEAR  TAKING  MEAT  PROM  UNDER  THE  HEAD  OP  THE  HUNTER. 


ELKHORN  STATION.  281 

senses  had  enabled  him  to  discover  the  presence  of 
fresh  meat  in  that  locality.  “ You  may  be  sure,’ 
says  Anderson,  “ that  I kept  very  quiet  while  the 
bear  helped  himself  to  some  of  my  buffalo  meat  and 
went  a little  way  off  to  eat  it.  But/’  said  he,  “one 
of  the  men  raised  up  and  back  came  the  bear.  Down 
went  our  heads  under  the  blankets,  and  I kept  mine 
covered  pretty  snug  while  the  beast  took  another 
walk  over  the  bed,  but  finally  went  off  again  to  some 
little  distance.  Mitchell  then  wanted  to  shoot,  but 
I said,  no!  no!  hold  on  or  the  brute  will  kill  us 
sure  ! When  the  bear  heard  our  voices,  back  he  run 
again  and  jumped  on  the  bed  as  before.  I’d  have 
been  happy  to  have  felt  myself  sinking  ten  feet  un- 
der ground  while  that  bear  promenaded  over  and 
around  us!  However,  he  couldn't  quite  make  out 
our  style,  and  finally  took  fright  and  ran  off  down 
the  mountain.  Wanting  to  bo  revenged  for  his  im- 
pudence, I went  after  him,  and  seeing  a good  chance, 
shot  him  dead.  Then  I took  my  turn  of  running  over 
him  awhile.” 

Anderson  was  with  the  American  Fur  Company 
•another  winter,  when  they  went  into  winter  camp 
on  the  Snake  River,  (now  in  Idaho,)  which  was  one 
of  the  coldest  he  had  ever  experienced  in  the  moun- 
tains. Fuel  was  difficult  to  obtain,  and  a supply  of 
meat  still  more  so.  The  buffalo  had  been  driven  in 


282 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


tbe  fall  east  of  the  mountains,  and  other  game  was 
scarce.  Often  a party  of  hunters  would  be  out  for- 
days  without  finding  any  more  meat  than  they  needed 
for  their  own  subsistence. 

The  trappers  are  all  hunters  when  in  winter  ren- 
dezvous. On  one  of  these  hunting  expeditions  that 
winter,  the  party  consisted  of  Anderson  and  three 
more  hunters.  They  had  been  out  more  than  a 
week  without  killing  anything  of  consequence,  and 
had  ascended  a mountain  over  frozen  snow,  hoping 
to  find  some  mountain  sheep.  As  they  clambered 
along  under  a ledge  of  rocks,  they  came  to  a place 
where  there  were  impressions  on  the  snow  of  grizzly 
bear  feet.  On  looking  round  they  discovered  an 
opening  in  the  rocks,  revealing  a cavern,  into  which 
the  tracks  lead.  (This,  no  doubt,  was  Candlemas 
Day.)  The  bear  had  come  out  of  its  winter  home, 
made  a short  circle  and  returned.  The  hunters  hes- 
itated, knowing  it  was  doubtful  as  to  how  it  could 
be  secured.  After  a short  consultation  one  pro- 
posed to  go  on  the  rock  above  and  shoot  him,  if 
any  one  would  go  in  the  cavern  and  drive  it  out. 

“ I’m  your  man,”  said  Anderson. 

“ And  I,  too !”  said  another,  while  the  third  one  de- 
clared himself  as  brave  as  the  others  and  prepared 
to  follow. 

On  entering  the  cave,  which  was  sixteen  or  twenty 


ELKHORN  STATION.  283 

feet  square,  and  high  enough  to  stand  erect  in,  in- 
stead of  one,  three  bears  were  visible.  They  were 
standing,  the  largest  one  in  the  middle,  with  their 
eyes  staring  at  the  entrance,  but  quietly  greeting 
the  hunters  only  with  a low  growl. 

Finding  that  there  was  a bear  apiece  to  be  dis- 
posed of,  the  hunters  kept  close  to  the  wall  and  out 
of  the  stream  of  light  from  the  entrance,  while  they 
advanced  a little  way  cautiously  towards  their  game, 
which,  however,  seemed  to  take  no  notice  of  them. 
After  manoeuvering  a few  minutes  to  get  nearer, 
Anderson  finally  struck  the  large  bear  on  the  head 
with  his  wiping-stick,  when  it  immediately  moved 
off  and  ran  out  of  the  cave.  As  it  came  out  the 
man  on  the  ledge  shot,  but  only  wounded  it,  and  it 
came  rushing  back,  snorting  and  running  around  in 
a circle,  till  the  well  directed  shots  from  all  three 
killed  it  on  the  spot.  Two  more  oears  now  re- 
mained to  be  disposed  of.  The  successful  shot  put 
them  in  high  spirits,  and  they  began  to  hallo  and 
laugh,  striking  the  next  largest  bear;  he  also  ran 
out,  and  was  soon  shot  by  the  man  outside. 

By  this  time  their  guns  were  reloaded,  the  men 
growing  more  elated,  and  Claymore  declaring  they 
were  “all  Daniels  in  the  lion’s  den,  and  no  mistake.” 
This  and  similar  expressions  he  constantly  vociferated 
w hile  they  drove  out  the  third  and  smaller  bear.  As  it 


284 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


reached  the  cave’s  mouth  three  simultaneous  shots 
put  an  end  to  the  last  one,  when  Anderson’s  excite- 
ment knew  no  bounds.  “ Daniel  was  a humbug,” 
said  he.  “Daniel  in  the  lions’ den  I Of  course  it 
was  winter,  and  the  lions  were  sucking  their  paws  ! 
Tell  me  no  more  of  Daniel’s  exploits.  We  are  as 
good  Daniels  as  he  ever  dared  to  be.  Hurrah  for 
these  Daniels  1” 

With  these  expressions,  and  playing  many  antics 
by  way  of  rejoicing,  the  delighted  Anderson  finally 
danced  himself  out  of  the  “ lion’s  den,”  and  set  to 
work  with  the  others  to  prepare  for  a return  to 
camp. 

Sleds  were  soon  constructed  out  of  the  branches 
of  the  mountain  willow,  and  on  these  light  vehicles 
the  fortunate  find  of  bear  meat  was  soon  conveyed 
to  the  hungry  camp  below. 

After  this  somewhat  remarkable  exploit  our  now 
established  hunter,  in  language  more  strong  than 
elegant,  remarked  that  the  Scripture  Daniel  was  a 
very  small  affair  as  compared  to  himself  and  associ- 
ates. 

When  the  camp  broke  up  in  the  spring  they 
came  down  on  Green  River,  trapping  and  hunting, 
and  worked  their  way  down  through  Utah  to  the 
Colorado  River  in  the  fall,  where  they  remained 
during  the  trapping  season,  and  then  passed  down 


ELKHORN  STATION. 


280 

through  Arizona  to  New  Mexico  and  wintered  on 
the  Gila  and  the  Rio  Grande  Rivers.  In  the  spring 
they  started  north  to  trap  on  the  head  waters  of  the 
many  streams  in  South  and  Middle  Parks,  Colorado. 

While  the  camp  was  on  its  way,  Kit  Carson,  An- 
derson and  Mitchel,  together  with  three  Indian 
trappers,  started  on  a hunt  east  of  Rio  Grande  River. 
When  they  were  about  a hundred  miles  from  camp, 
crossing  an  open  country,  a plain,  they  discovered  a 
large  band  of  Indians  mounted,  and  coming  towards 
them.  They  were  in  the  Camanche  country,  and 
knew  full  well  what  to  expect  if  taken  prisoners. 
They  took  a hasty  observation  of  their  foes,  and 
full  two  hundred  Camanches,  with  their  warriors 
in  front,  mounted  on  fleet  horses,  armed  with  spears 
and  battle-axes,  going  like  the  wind  over  the  prairie, 
their  feather  head-dresses  flying  back  in  the  breeze, 
could  be  clearly  seen  in  that  clear  air,  imparting 
a thrill  of  fear  mingled  with  admiration.  The  first 
moment,  the  look ; the  second,  to  devise  some  way 
of  escape.  To  run  was  useless;  their  swift  steeds 
would  soon  overtake  them,  and  then  there  would  be 
no  hope.  No  protection  was  at  hand;  no  woods  or 
ravine  as  in  the  mountains.  Carson  exchanged  a 
few  words  and  said:  “We  must  kill  our  mules!” 
There  is  a chance  for  life  until  the  breath  is  out  of 
the  body,  is  the  rule  of  true  mountain  men  like  these. 


286 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


! 


To  the  ground  they  sprang,  placing  their  mules, 
seven  of  them,  in  a circle,  cut  their  throats  almost 
in  an  instant  with  their  keen  hunting  knives,  and 
held  them  in  their  places  till  each  animal  fell  dead. 
Then  hastily  throwing  up  what  dirt  they  could  with 
their  hands  and  knives,  they  made  themselves  a fort, 
— a hole  for  each  man  to  stand  in,  with  a dead  mule 
for  a breastwork.  Soon  the  Camanches  came  up 
and  made  a dash  on  them,  the  great  medicine  man 
in  advance,  gesticulating  and  making  a desperate 
noise  with  a little  rattle  which  he  shook  violently. 
The  whooping  and  brandishing  of  weapons,  and  the 
dash  of  the  charge,  was  at  least  somewhat  impressive. 

But  the  little  garrison  in  its  mule  fort  was  un- 
usually mulish  and  did  not  waver;  but  the  Caman- 
che  horses  did.  They  could  not  be  made  to  charge 
upon  the  bloody  carcasses  of  the  mules,  nor  i.eai 
enough  for  them  to  throw  a spear  into  the  fortifica- 
tion. 

This  was  just  what  the  trappers  had  relied  upon. 
They  were  determined,  yet  much  excited  by  their 
remarkably  exposed  situation.  It  was  arranged  that 
but  three  should  fire  at  a time,  the  other  three  re- 
serving their  fire  till  the  empty  guns  could  be 
reloaded.  Each  oue  was  to  select  his  man  and  kill  at 
every  shot.  This  they  did.  Their  horses  could  not 
be  urged  upon  the  slaughtered  mules.  The  three 


ELKHORN  STATION. 


2ST 


whites  fired  first,  and  the  medicine  man  and  two 
other  Camanches  fell. 

When  a medicine  man  is  killed  the  others  retire, 
hold  a council,  and  appoint  another,  for  without 
their  “ medicine”  they  could  not  expect  success 
in  battle.  The  warriors  retired,  while  their  women 
came  up  and  carried  off  the  dead. 

After  devoting  a little  time  to  bewailing  the  de- 
parted, another  chief  was  appointed  to  the  head 
]3lace,  and  another  furious  charge  was  made  with  the 
same  results  as  before.  Three  more  warriors  bit  the 
dust,  while  the  spears  of  their  brethren,  attached  to 
long  hair  ropes  by  which  they  could  be  withdrawn, 
fell  short  of  reaching  the  men  in  the  fort.  Again  j 
and  again  the  Camanches  made  a fruitless  charge — 
losing,  as  often  as  they  repeated  it,  three  warriors, 
either  dead  or  wounded.  Three  successive  times  that 
day,  the  head  chief,  or  medicine-man,  was  killed  ; 
and  when  that  happened,  the  heroes  in  the  fort  got 
a little  time  to  breathe. 

While  the  warriors  held  a council,  the  women  took 
care  of  the  wounded  and  slain.  As  the  women  ap- 
proached the  fort  to  carry  off  the  fallen  warriors, 
they  mocked  and  reviled  the  little  band  of  trappers, 
calling  them  women”  for  fighting  in  a fort,  and  re- 
sorting to  the  usual  Indian  ridicule  and  gasconade. 
Occasionally,  also,  a warrior  raced  at  full  speed  past 


2X8 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


the  fort,  apparently  to  take  observations.  Thus  the 
battle  continued  through  the  entire  day. 

It  was  terrible  work  for  the  trappers.  The  burn- 
ing sun  of  the  plains  shone  on  them,  scorching  them 
to  faintness.  Their  faces  were  begrimmed  with  pow- 
der and  dust,  their  throats  parched,  and  tongues 
swollen  with  thirst,  and  their  whole  frames  aching 
from  their  cramped  positions,  as  well  as  the  excite- 
meut  and  fatigue  of  the  battle. 

But  they  dared  not  relax  their  vigilance  for  a mo- 
ment. They  were  fighting  for  their  lives,  and  they 
meant  to  win.  At  length  the  sun  set  on  that  bloody 
and  wearisome  day.  Forty-two  Camanches  were 
killed,  and  several  more  wounded,  for  the  charge 
had  been  repeated  fifteen  or  twenty  times. 

The  Indians  drew  off  at  nightfall  to  mourn  over 
their  dead  and  hold  a council.  By  this  time  they 
must  have  realized  that  their  medicines  were  not  ef- 
fective, and  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  trap- 
per’s medicine  possessed  wonderful  killing  proper- 
ties ! When  sable  night  had  spread  its  shadows  over 
the  embattled  and  now  memorable  mule-fort,  the  six 
heroes  who  had  contended  successfully  against  a hun- 
dred brave  Camanches,  took  each  his  blanket  and 
his  gun,  “thankful  for  the  bridge  that  carried  them 
safe  over,’’  they  gave  a hasty  good-by  to  dead  mules 
and  packs,  and  started  on  their  return  to  camp. 


ELKHORN  STATION. 


‘289 


During  many  years  of  out-door  life  of  toil,  watch- 
fulness and  peril,  the  mountain  trapper  had  acquir- 
ed the  habit,  like  the  Indians,  that  when  he  had  a 
journey  to  perform,  or  was  going  on  express  busi- 
ness, he  would  take  a dog-trot,  and  travel  all  day  in 
that  gate. 

On  this  occasion,  the  six  escaping  from  a deadly 
enemy  for  life,  ran  all  night,  and  found  no  water  for 
seventy  miles — when,  ultimately,  they  came  to  a clear 
mountain  stream,  their  thankfulness  equalled  their 
necessity — “ for,”  says  Anderson,  “ thirst  is  the  great- 
est suffering  I ever  experienced.  It  is  far  worse 
than  hunger  or  pain.” 

They  remained  here,  rested  and  renewed  their  ex- 
hausted energies,  and  went  on  without  hindrance, 
until  they  arrived  at  camp,  in  that  beautiful  spot  in 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  now  called  South  Park;  and 
here  we  leave  them,  glad  to  know  that,  after  their  re- 
markable escape  with  their  lives  and  hardships,  they 
are  safely  in  this  agreeably  romantic  spot  in  the 
mountains. 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

THE  ROAD  FROM  CHEYENNE— CHURCH  BUTE — UP  AND 
OVER  A WILDERNESS  OF  MOUNTAIN  RANGES — UPON 
THE  SUMMIT — DOWN  THE  PACIFIC  SLOPE — RE- 
MARKABLE ROCK  FORMATIONS — ECHO 
CANYON— WEBER  VALLEY — MOR- 
MON SETTLEMENTS. 

I am  here;  there  is  no  mistake  about  that,  with 
one  of  the  very  best  pro«pects  of  my  remaining 
for  some  time  to  come.  Day  after  day,  here,  close 
under  the  high,  broad  mountains,  among  the  child- 
hills  about  “ Elkhorn  Station,”  the  battle  was  re- 
newed, not  with  Indians,  but  with  mosquitoes.  It 
would  seem  that  they  had  been  whetting  their  nee- 
dles on  a smooth  mountain  peak  hard  by,  anticipating 
our  stay.  Washington  Irving  informs  us  that  a 
certain  people  in  early  time,  on  the  Hudson  River, 
all  fell  to  smoking  to  bide  their  little  settlement 
from  Yankee  depredations,  and  have  them  pass  on 
without  being  discovered;  in  which  they  were  suc- 
cessful, so  completely  did  they  envelop  the  town 
with  the  smoke  of  their  large,  well-filled  pipes. 
When  we  enveloped  ourselves  in  a cloud  of  smot  e 
the  enemy’s  forces  would  fall  back,  but  as  soon  as 
our  smoked  forms  came  out  to  view,  mountains  that 


THE  ROAD  FROM  CHEYENNE. 


291 


rival  Switzerland  and  skies  of  Italian  beauty,  the 
battle  would  be  fought  over  again;  perhaps  more 
blood  would  be  shed  than  before.  The  enemy’s 
forces  came  on,  like  the  Goths  and  Yandals,  from  the 
mountains  in  numbers  which  could  not  be  overcome, 
when  we  would  retreat  in  “good  order”  to  the 
smudge.  Remaining  here  was  more  troublesome 
than  fighting  Indians— at  least  in  imagination,  but  a 
very  little  less  dangerous. 

Although  we  were  obliged  to  remain  here  so  long, 
and  no  escape,  I was  reminded  of  the  time  when 
Kansas  was  “ bleeding”  even  unto  death,  and  de- 
manded of  all  good  people  a generous  liberality.  A 
'large,  good-looking  man  entered,  as  one  having  au- 
thority, a negro’s  barber  shop  in  a certain  place 
known  as  Kansas,  to  be  shaved.  After  the  barber 
had  performed  after  the  manner  of  the  craft,  the 
gentleman  was  about  to  leave,  when  he  informed 
the  barber  that  he  was  the  Governor  and  would  pay 
by  the  quarter. 

“ You  bes  Gob’ner  ob  Kansas?” 

44  Yes.” 

“ Well,  I’d  rader  dese  gob’ners  would  pay  by  de 
shave,  becase  dey  run  off  so  mighty  sudden.” 

Somewhat  so  with  “mine  host,”  or  rather  hostess; 
she  thought  we  had  better  pay  by  the  meal,  and  we 
had  just  two  dollars  less  money  every  time  we  left 


292 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


her  bread  and  elk  meat  feast.  These  were  the  only 
articles  that  remained  with  us,  like  the  mosquitoes, 
to  the  last.  If  her  husband  managed  his  affairs 
out  doors  as  profitably,  they  must  now  be  well  set' 
up  in  business. 

After  remaining  here  six  days,  a sufficient  num- 
ber was  collected,  with  part  of  a company  of  United 
States  Cavalry,  to  make  an  advance  into  the  enemy’s 
country.  The  army  wagons  being  loaded  with  sup- 
plies for  man  and  beast,  with  two  stages,  we  packed 
our  baggage  hastily,  (two  blankets  and  a jack-knife,) 
and  the  young  army  went  bravely  forward,  two  days 
and  one  night,  before  passing  the  brake,  without 
seeing  the  shadow  of  an  Indian;  but  their  works 
were  manifested  in  various  places  in  dead  men  and 
burnt  stations.  All  the  station-keepers  and  soldiers 
were  massacred  that  did  not  escape.  The  men  in 
two  stations  defended  themselves  in  their  log  houses 
till  night  and  then  made  their  escape.  Their  boaid 
doors  were  perforated  with  bullet  holes,  like  a skim- 
mer, by  the  Indian  rifles. 

The  difficulty  past,  we  resume  our  journey  from 
the  Territory  of  Wyoming  far  up  in  the  Rock)7 
Mountains.  Here  are  many  interesting  and  quite 
remarkable  earth  and  rock  formations,  arranged  by 
time  and  the  work  of  the  natural  elements  into  archi- 
tectural grandeur;  some  quite  beautiful.  Church 


THE  ROAD  FROM  CHEYENNE.  293 

Bute  is  an  unshapely  mountain  of  bare  gray  earth, 
hundreds  of  feet  high,  covered  partly  with  decom- 
posed sandstone,  while  other  portions  present  the 
appearance  of  a vast  cathedral  in  all  conditions  of 
badly  ruined  greatness;  solid  and  crumbling  walls, 
small  and  large  towers,  smooth  and  sculptured  pyra- 
mids, whole  and  broken;  recesses  holding  sculptured 
figures.  Time’s  pitiless  elements  have  worked  in 
this  soft  rock  a wonderful  variety  of  forms,  both  cu- 
rious and  interesting. 

None  of  the  accounts  of  travel  seem  fully  to  de- 
scribe the  many  remarkable  peculiarities  of  these 
mountains,  (neither  do  I think  they  ever  can  be,) 
and  those  general  characteristics  which  all  moun- 
tainous regions  have  in  common.  At  every  turn  in 
the  road  the  tourist  is  introduced  to  new  views 
equally  strange  and  remarkable.  No  man’s  imagina- 
tion can  picture  the  piled-up  magnificence  and 
wildness  that  may  be  seen  in  traveling  over  this 
most  desolate  and  yet  most  interesting  portion  of 
our  continent;  a panorama  of  grandeur  and  varied 
beauty  such  as  pen  and  pencil  can  never  reproduce. 
As  we  pass  on  up  towards  the  more  central  ranges 
the  nights  grow  very  cold,  while  the  day  would  be 
like  an  Italian  summer.  While  passing  over  some 
of  these  ranges  the  cold  was  severe,  when  we  could 
look  down  upon  a sunny  valley  warm  with  genial 


294 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


heat,  and  also  look  up  to  the  eternal  snows  which 
crowned  the  neighboring  mountain.  High,  rugged, 
naked  mountains  towered  up  on  either  side  into  a 
region  where  ali,  save  the  voice  of  the  storm,  is 
silent;  where  all  is  cold  and  desolate;  where  the 
higher  slopes  of  the  mountains  are  covered  with  the 
white  mantle  of  perpetual  snow,  and  cover  their 
heads  with  the  clouds.  Their  naked  sides  are  cov- 
ered with  volcanic  rocks,  a substance  resembling 
the  slag  formed  in  iron  furnaces  bla  ted  out  by  sub- 
terraneous fires.  At  length  we  attained  the  most 
desolate  part  of  the  road.  The  hills  seemed  iron 
and  the  heavens  brass;  all  those  sources  of  utility 
and  beauty  which,  from  their  being  so  generally 
diffused  through  liberal  nature,  are  generally  con- 
sidered as  things,  of  course  were  over  this  region 
omitted.  The  mountains  on  either  side  of  the 
road  presented  a scene  that  had  been  cheered  by  the 
beauty  of  no  vegetation  since  the  waters  of  the 
deluge  had  subsided  and  the  dove  left  the  old  patri- 
arch’s window  not  to  return. 

As  we  slowly  ascended  the  dividing  range  the 
mountain  ranges  seemed  to  lower  as  we  approached 
the  summit,  and  when  upon  the  divide,  nine  hun- 
dred feet  above  sea  level,  there  were  no  ranges 
above  us,  but  mountain  peaks  seemed  to  penetrate 
the  clouds  on  either  hand.  Large  fields  of  snow 


THE  ROAD  FROM  CHEYENNE.  295 

came  nearly  to  the  wagon  road,  a few  steps  on  either 
side.  A party  could  take  an  old  fashioned  snow- 
balling in  July.  But  of  this  youthful  diversion  we 
wanted  but  little  here  below,  nor  wanted  that  little 
long.  We  made  a stop  for  some  time  on  the  very 
summit,  to  enjoy  the  extensive  view,  and  see  the 
melted  snow  run  along  the  mountain  on  either  side 
towards  the  two  oceans.  Two  little  rivulets  rising 
within  a few  rods  of  each  other,  starting  off  towards 
the  rising  and  the  setting  sun,  begin  their  long 
journey  in  the  eternal  snows  of  the  dividing  range 
with  which  to  feed  both  oceans.  Amid  the  surround- 
ing grand  desolation  there  are  elements  of  unusual 
interest  and  beauty:  the  piled-up  magnificence  of 
the  wilderness  of  mountain  ranges,  with  their  many 
sentinel  watch-towers  overlooking  and  defending, 
with  parental  solicitude,  the  smaller  and  more  de- 
pendent members  of  the  great  family;  the  cloudless 
sky,  the  clear,  exhilarating  and  balmy  air,  bringing 
objects  far  remote  near,  while  a few  wild  flowers 
were  contending  at  our  feet,  under  adverse  circum- 
stances, for  a scanty  subsistence.  Altogether,  the 
view  presents  unusual  completeness  of  extent  and 
varied  majestic  beauty  unsurpassed.  Many  moun- 
tain peaks  can  be  seen  towering  up  into  a region 
where  all  save  the  voice  of  the  storm  is  silent;  where 
all  is  ever  cold  and  desolate;  where  they  wrap  around 


296 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


them  the  white  mantle  of  perpetual  snow  and  covei 
their  heads  with  the  clouds.  Many  of  these  peaks 
are  torn  and  furrowed  to  their  center,  and  some- 
times cleft  asunder  from  top  to  bottom.  What 
meditated  thoughts  come  to  us  as  we  stand  here  and 
view  these  mountain  summits  ! Century  after  cen- 
tury  upon  their  naked  heads  has  rested  the  closed 
hand  of  silence,  unimpressible  both  to  summer  sun- 
shine and  rigid  winter’s  strength. 

We  were  fortunate  to  attain  the  Pass  eariy  in  the 
forenoon,  (one  of  those  beautiful  days  in  early  sum- 
mer of  which  this  country  has  so  many,)  enabling  us 
to  fully  enjoy  the  magnificent  views — ample  com- 
pensation for  a long  stage  journey.  To  those  accus- 
tomed to  the  heavy  air  of  the  low  country,  no  correct 
judgment  can  be  formed  as  to  distance.  We  were 
permitted  here  to  supply  ourselves  with  late  papers 
and  magazines,  they  being  thickly  scattered  upon 
the  ground — a verification  of  the  old  saying,  that 
there  is  no  loss  without  gain.  The  stage  had  been 
attacked  by  Indians  a short  time  before,  a few  miles 
from  here;  but  they  succeeded  in  gaining  the  sum- 
mit, when  their  horses  were  exhausted,  and  they 
•stopped,  taking  the  mails  and  baggage,  with  which 
they  made  themselves  a fort,  and  lay  down  in  it. 
There  being  five  ol  them,  well  armed  with  rifles, 
breech  loaders,  they  were  able  to  make  a good  de- 


: 


THE  ROAD  FROM  CHEYENNE.  297 

tense.  The  Indians  dare  not  come  and  take  their 
chances  with  them,  but  crawled  up  the  steepest  part 
of  the  hill,  near  enough  to  shoot  their  arrows  up-, 
and  have  them  drop  into  the  little  fortification;  but 
they  were  harmless.  The  driver,  however,  was  kill- 
ed before  gaining  the  place,  and  the  superintendent 
of  that  division  was  on  the  seat  with  him,  and  at 
once  took  the  lines,  and  thus  saved  the  lives  of  the 
others. 

As  we  pass  on  down  the  Pacific  slope,  the  land- 
scape presents  a more  changeable  view.  From  the 
higher  ranges  could  be  seen  mountain  slopes  of  vari- 
ous hue,  doffed  with  low  bushy  evergreen  shrubs 
streaked  with  snow,  almost  hid  in  the  distance  amid 
fleecy  clouds.  But  at  length  a few  green  valleys 
could  be  seen,  and  nature  began  to  put  on  an  increas- 
ed wreath  of  vegetation,  indicating  our  approach  to 
the  great  basins  and  valleys  of  Utah. 

Our  road  has  for  a few  miles  objects  of  interest, 
goes  between  two  ranges  of  precipitous  hills  of  soft 
sandstone  formation,  and  presents  some  very  inter- 
esting and  curious  shapes,  which,  when  viewed  in 
the  distance,  are  remarkable  imitations  of  magnifi- 
cent works  of  art  in  ruins: 

“ If  thou  wouldst  view  fair  Melrose  aright, 

Go  visit  it  by  the  pale  moonlight.” 

Soon  after  the  great  moon  rose  over  the  eastern 


298 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


mountains,  we  came  to  the  ruins.  Here  may  be  seen 
the  old  Cathedral  and  the  Palace;  there  the  new; 
some  streets  having  on  either  side  once  magnificent 
blocks  of  buildings  and  lofty  domes,  sublime  in  their 
proportions,  grand  in  the  outline  of  architecture,  an 
ancient  city  in  ruins,  with  its  walls,  terraces,  castles 
and  magnificent  porticos.  Occasionally,  an  old  col- 
umn and  a crumbling  pedestal  may  be  seen,  as  though 
long  since  abandoned  by  the  owners,  and  the  work 
let  to  the  destroying  hand  of  time,  to  be  taken  down 
into  an  unsystematic  mass  of  ruins;  also,  a remarka- 
ble variety  of  monuments  and  statuary,  of  humanity 
and  animals.  No  place  can  be  found  having  a great- 
er variety  of  the  kind,  or  of  more  magnificence. 
Over  and  through  these  remarkable  imitations  of 
departed  greatness,  as  one  is  compelled  to  imagine 
them,  where 

“ Distance  lends  enchantment  to  the  view, 

And  robes  the  mountains  in  its  azure  hue.” 

It  reminds  one  forcibly  of  some  of  the  crnce  great 
cities  of  the  Old  World,  which  are  now  amongst  the 
rubbish  of  the  past.  It  was  with  some  difficulty  that 
we  could  divest  our  mind  that  these  were  not  the 
hard  work  of  human  hands,  and  no  one  left  to  tell 
the  passing  traveler  the  story  of  their  former  great- 
ness or  present  ruin.  We  pass  mountain  ranges,  low 
divides;  cross  and  £0  down  the  beds  of  departed  riv- 


THE  ROAD  FROM  CHEYENNE.  299 

era,  with  rough  and  smooth  walls,  sometimes  one  and 
two  thousand  feet  high,  through  Echo  Canyon. 

This  deep,  narrow  opening  through  the  mountain 
is  about  twenty  miles  in  length,  and  is  in  some  pla- 
ces arched  by  overhanging  small  trees  and  rocks. 
This  canyon  has  many  very  striking  features  like  the 
Cascades  of  Oregon,  which  would  amply  repay  the 
traveler  to  incommode  himself  to  visit. 

The  many  Mormon  fortifications,  now  in  a bad 
state  of  preservation,  on  the  bluffs  and  in  caverns  on 
the  sides  of  the  mountains,  remind  the  traveler  of 
the  time  when  Johnson’s  army  was  marching  on  the 
Sainted  City.  The  Mormons  fortified  this  deep  can- 
yon to  give  battle  to  their  invaders — a Gibraltar  of 
defense  in  and  of  itself. 

We  enter  a productive  valley,  dotted  with  culti- 
vated fields  and  greensward,  having  a clear,  beauti- 
ful river,  where  the  comforts  of  civilization  were 
present.  The  contrast  was  unusually  agreeable,  hav- 
ing been  so  long  away  from  such  pleasant  indications 
of  our  home  life. 

The  country  through  which  we  have  passed,  al- 
though grand  and  majestic  to  look  upon,  is  almost 
a barren  land,  save  wild  sage  and  cactus,  the  naked 
mountains,  dreary  ashen  hills  of  earth,  immense 
wastes,  white  with  alkali,  the  ground  parched  and 
gullied,  a country  more  varied  but  as  barren  as  the 


300  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

deserts  of  Sahara.  Dropping  down  here  from  the 
mountains,  we  found  a Mormon  dignitary  surrounded 
with  many  blessings,  (not  in  disguise.)  Some  of  thorn 
were  living  and  moving,  while  others  were  the  wealth 
of  a productive  soil.  We  soon  had  unmistakable  ev- 
idence of  the  latter — the  first  truly  “square  meal,” 
without  even  the  edges  taken  off,  for  two  weeks. 
His  youngest,  black-eyed  and  black-haired  wife,  done 
the  honors  of  the  table,  equally  well  as  we  done  hon- 
or to  her  bountiful  repast. 

The  driver  informed  us  that  his  churchship  was 
very  destitute  just  then;  some  of  his  former  help- 
meets had  left  him,  and  he  could  then  boast  of  but 
three.  From  his  cheerfulness,  I thought  he  classed 
them  among  such  blessings  as  brighten  when  they 
leave. 

A Mormon  farming  community  has  settled  along 
the  valley,  giving  evidences  of  aD  humble  prosperi- 
ty on  their  farms,  while  their  little  one-story  adobe 
houses  show  unmistakable  evidences  of  that  kiud 
which  the  good  elderly  lady  had,  who  it  is  said  once 
lived  in  a Shoe!  Beyond  is  a larger  house;  a richer 
man  lives  there;  three  doors  to  his  residence.  He 
is  favored  with  three  wives  only;  where  the  man 
can  afford  it,  each  wife  has  her  separate  apartment. 
Still  further  on,  is  one  still  more  wealthy;  he  has  a 
large  story-and-a-half  adobe  house,  where  he  lives 


THE  ROAD  FROM  CHEYENNE. 


301 


with  but  one  of  his  wives — two  small  one-story  square 
adobe  houses  on  either  side  of  him — a wife  and  fam- 
ily in  each.  He  has  only  five  wives. 

Through  the  country,  one  can  generally  tell  if 
these  lords  of  the  plough  have  more  than  one  wife, 
by  such  indications.  These  men  must  be  Saints , or 
they  could  never  control  so  many  wives,  when  we 
often  find  it  difficult,  and  sometimes  even  dangerous, 
to  control  even  one. 

The  afternoon  ride  in  the  valley  is  remarkably  in- 
teresting. At  evening,  we  cross  a very  high  range 
into  another  valley  and  canyon,  when  in  the  early 
morning  we  ascend  another  long  hill  and  stop,  get 
out  and  survey  the  country  before  us. 

In  the  very  bosom  of  the  mountains,  at  our  feet  is 
an  extensive  and  beautiful  valley,  one  of  the  most 
picturesque  in  the  mountains.  The  gently  flowing, 
sparkling  waters  of  the  modern  Jordan,  making  to- 
wards the  great  lake,  are  before  us,  more  precious 
than  all  the  waters  of  old  Demascus  to  these  people. 
Many  other  flashing  streams  are  coming  from  their 
hiding  places  far  away  in  the  mountains,  to  contribute 
their  wealth  of  beauty  and  fertility  to  the  valley.  As 
far  as  the  vision  can  extend,  north  and  south,  stretch- 
ed the  green  valley,  spotted  with  fields  of  grain,  fruit 
and  gardens,  with  herds  of  horses  and  cattle,  and  its 
skimming  lakes,  bounded  ultimately  by  a wall  of 


BEYOND  THE  WEST, 


/ 


802 

mountain.  The  valley  is  bounded  on  either  side 
with  lofty  mountain  slopes,  green  at  the  base,  then 
gray,  their  highest  summits  white  with  eternal  snow, 
combining  in  one  matchless  view  summer  and  win- 
ter, the  sunny  skies  of  Italy,  and  the  frozen  snows 
of  Switzerland.  We  look  down  upon  a peculiar  peo- 
ple, and  a city  equally  peculiar,  different  in  more 
ways  than  one  from  any  other  in  our  wide  and  broad 
land.  A stranger  standing  here  would,  on  looking 
down  upon  the  City  of  Great  Salt  Lake,  ask  at  once 
what  peculiar  people  live  here.  The  unusual  pub- 
lic erections  and  cloistered  homes  of  church  dignita- 
ries, would  readily  excite  his  curiosity.  The  city 
from  here  offers  both  a beautiful  and  a romantic 
view,  built  by  a people  in  whose  history  there  is  the 
romance  of  remarkable  fanaticism,  and  the  romance 
of  suffering;  while  you  are  indignant  over  their  as- 
sumption of  religion,  you  are  in  admiration  and  as- 
tonishment over  their  industry. 

On  the  gentle  slope  of  the  mountain,  upon  a large 
area  of  table  land  before  us,  is  the  mountain  home  of 
a now  large  and  beautiful  city.  The  streets  are 
four  miles  in  length — run  east  and  west,  north  and 
south.  They  are  each  eight  rods  wide,  and  are  per- 
fectly straight  each  way.  On  either  side  of  every 
street  runs  a stream  of  the  purfest  mountain  water, 
and  rows  and  double  rows  of  a variety  of  shade  trees 


THE  ROAD  FROM  CHEYENNE.  303 

are  growing  luxuriantly  along  every  water-course. 
To  stand  here  and  look  down  upon  the  manj 
sparkling  rivulets  running  in  all  directions  along 
the  streets,  it  would  seem  some  of  them  were  rim- 
ing up  hill;  but  nevertheless  they  are  hastily  glid 
ing  through  every  street  in  the  town.  The  city  ig 
laid  out  so  as  to  have  just  ten  acres  in  each  square, 
and  these  are  sub-divided  into  eight  squares,  so  as 
to  give  one  and  one  quarter  acre  to  each  house. 
These  little  home  lots  are  all  made  into  gardens,  full 
of  trees  bearing  a large  variety  of  fruits,  such  as 
apples,  pears,  peaches,  two  and  three  varieties  of 
plums,  apricots  and  cherries,  and  under  the  heavy 
growth  of  trees  are  planted  all  the  common  varieties 
of  vegetables  growing  in  perfection  under  their 
shade.  Should  the  garden  plot  be  in  the  urban 
part  of  the  city,  just  over  the  fence  from  the  en- 
closure is  nothing  but  parched,  barren  sand  and  the 
ever  present  sage,  and  his  own  now  beautiful  and 
fruitful  grounds  were  the  same  four  years  before. 
Every  garden  is  watered  as  required  by  a small 
stream  turned  from  the  street  on  the  higher  part  of 
the  lot.  The  abundant  and  constant  supply  of  water 
makes  a very  heavy  vegetable  growth. 

Among  this  dense  shrubbery  is  the  environed 
Iwelliug  house,  made  of  adobe  brick,  i.  e.,  clay  un- 
burnt. The  bricks  are  four  times  larger  than  our 


304 


BEYOND  UHE  WEST. 


common  brick,  and  are  of  gray  color.  The  houses 
are  mostly  one  story  high  and  present  a comfortable 
appearance. 

In  one  of  these  ten  acre  squares  rises  up  a 
remarkable  building,  oval  in  shape,  and  covered  with 
one  glittering  metalic  dome  two  hundred  and 
seventy-one  feet  long,  one  hundred  and  seventy  feet 
wide  and  seventy  feet  high.  This  entire  area  has 
not  a single  inner  support;  is  one  unbroken  space. 
This  immense  building  is  the  new  Tabernacle — the 
church.  This  lot  is  enclosed  by  a heavy  wall  of 
masonry,  and  is  entered  on  two  sides  through  heavy 
double  gates,  and  has  but  two  erections.  The  other 
building  in  the  enclosure  is  the  unfinished  Temple. 

We  also  look  down  upon  another  walled-in  ten 
acre  lot  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  street,  where 
the  autocrat,  not  of  all  the  Russias,  but  of  all  the 
chosen  “ Latterday  Saints,”  resides  with  his  numer- 
ous family  of  both  great  and  small.  Here  is  the 
Lion  House,  so  named  from  having  that  animal  in 
bronze  over  the  entrance;  also  the  Beehive  House, 
(the  Mormon  emblem  of  industry.)  These  are  ratimr 
blocks  of  buildings.  In  this  enclosure,  are  all  the 
Church  Tithes  buildings  and  the  school  house  of 
Brigham  Young,  no  children  are  permitted  to  attend 
it  but  his  own.  Here  Brigham  Young’s  ambition 
“climbs  his  little  ladder,”  and  Mormon  genius 
“plumes  his  half-fledged  wings.” 


THE  ROAD  FROM  CHEYENNE. 


305 


The  school  register  bore  the  names  of  fifty  odd 
pupils,  all  his  own  sons  and  daughters;  but  there 
were  not  over  thirty  present,  all  looking  as  healthy, 
bright  and  intelligent  as  any  other  school  I ever 
visited.  Children  seem  indigenous  here;  they  are 
in  the  houses  and  on  the  streets,  and  you  wonder, 
till  you  recollect  that  they  are  the  only  growth  of 
the  soil — without  irrigation. 

Along  the  business  streets  these  acre  and  a quarter 
squares  are  still  divided,  and  the  streets  present 
rows  of  compact  buildings  like  any  other  city. 

We  have  given  but  a few  of  the  most  prominent 
features  of  this  center  of  Mormonism — a city  and  a 
people  unlike  any  other  in  some  regards  in  the 
world.  The  city  has  a population  of  about  twenty 
thousand,  Mormons  and  Gentiles,”  as  they  call 
everybody  who  are  not  of  their  faith. 

As  we  stand  overlooking  the  city  and  the  extended 
sweep  of  country,  under  the  yellow  skies,  in  the 
soft,  hazy  atmosphere  covering  everything  in  “ robes 
of  azure  hue,”  we  can’t  but  feel  that  we  are  in  a 
goodly  heritage,  a visioned  land,  as  the  Saints  claim 
it  to  be.  It  truly  is;  after  coming  from  dreary, 
barren  mountains  and  naked  deserts,  from  unusual 
natural  poverty  so  long,  we  stand  here  on  the  east- 
ern range,  high  above  the  valley,  and  view  the  most 
beautiful  spot  on  which  the  sun  ever  shone.  Thus 


306 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


it  seemed  to  us.  We  ask  ourself,  can  this  be  the 
desert  which  only  a few  years  ago  was  a twin  sister 
to  that  just  described,  full  of  alkali,  salt,  sand  and 
wild  sage— all  poverty.  We  are  ready  to  ask,  what 
master  mind  established,  laid  out  this  city  of  the 
desert,  and  made  it  the  mountain  Eden  what  it  ip 
at  this  time.  But  as  we  look  away  over  the  country 
we  learn  that  this  is  only  one  among  many  evidences 
of  the  workings  of  a shrewd  master  mind.  We 
discover  one  hundred  and  thirty  cities  and  villages 
planted  among  the  mountain  valleys,  four  hundred 
miles  to  the  southward  and  two  hundred  in  the  op- 
posite way,  and  in  all  about  one  hundred  thousand 
people. 

The  estimated  amount  of  expenditure  for  canals, 
aqueducts  and  small  water  courses  is  ten  millions,  five 
hundred  and  eighty-eight  thousand  dollars.  Ninety 
four  thousand  acres  are  cultivated  by  irrigation, 
giving  to  the  government,  or  rather  Brigham  Young, 
an  annual  water  rentage  of  two  hundred  and  seventy 
thousand  dollars. 

Nothing  can  be  raised  in  Utah  without  constant 
and  careful  irrigation.  With  it  everything  is 
grown  in  abundance.  The  use  of  water  as  a fertil 
izer  is  much  greater  than  we  in  this  land  of  show- 
ers have  comprehended.  For  thousands  of  years 
irrigation  has  made  the  country  along  the  river  Nile 
the  garden  of  the  world. 


THE  ROAD  FROM  CHEYENNE. 


307 


To  supply  Salt  Lake  City  with  an  abundance  of 
water  they  went  back  in  the  snowy  mountain 
ranges  a distance  of  forty  miles,  dug  a canal,  with 
lateral  ditches,  making  in  all  nearly  a thousand  miles 
of  water  course  concentrating  in  a small  river  be- 
• fore  arriving  at  the  city.  But  during  the  time  of 
irrigation,  after  the  parched  earth  has  been  sup- 
plied, you  go  below  the  city  and  see  the  little 
brook  which  seems  to  say:  “ I am  what  is  left  of  the 
great  mountain  stream  after  the  city  has  drank  all 
that  it  wants.”  Wherever  a mountain  stream  can  be 
found  they  bring  it  down  in  the  valley,  and  is  made 
the  means  of  a settlement.  After  water  is  available 
the  rest  is  easy;  build  a cayote  house,  which  one  man 
can  do  in  a day,  then  set  up  housekeeping  and  be- 
gin farming.  A cayote  house  is  a small  cellar  dug 
in  the  ground  with  a few  boards  placed  up  over  the 
hole  as  a roof.  The  now  poor  farmer  occupies  this 
until  his  farm  (never  to  exceed  forty  acres  by  theii 
law)  enables  him  to  build  one  of  adobe  brick. 

There  is  through  all  this  country  a horizontal 
rather  than  a perpendicular  agriculture  adapted  tr 
irrigation.  There  is  no  place  on  our  continenl 
where  such  extensive  works  of  irrigation  have  been 
made  and  in  use  as  those  in  the  Great  Salt  Lake 
Basin,  by  an  isolated  and  an  outcast  people.  Here 
are  at  least  in  all  one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand 


308 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


people,  who  not  only  live  themselves,  but  export 
largely  their  agr  icultural  produce,  which  is  sustained 
by  irrigation  alone. 

Wherever  a watered  valley  can  be  found  in  Utah, 
(the  name  of  an  Indian  tribe,  meaning  those  who 
dwell  in  the  mountains,)  and  there  are  many  creep 
ing  up  among  the  mountains  a long,  long  way,  there 
you  will  find  the  humble,  industrious,  uncomplaining 
Mormon  settler,  earning  a living  in  the  way  most 
congenial  to  his  nature  by  cultivating  the  soil.  All 
of  them  are  plain;  most  of  them  are  extremely  so, 
as  might  be  expected  in  a very  humble  people. 
They  bear  the  impress  of  poverty,  hard  work  and 
poor  living  from  their  youth  up.  Yet,  as  a people, 
they  have  no  doubt  bettered  their  condition  physi- 
cally, if  not  mentally,  by  coming  here. 

Here  is  a community  gathered  from  almost  the 
uttermost  parts  of  the  earth,  mostly7  foreigners,  from 
the  lowest,  most  ignorant  strata  of  society7  in  Eu 
rope.  They  are  from  England,  Norway,  Sweden, 
and  many  from  Denmark,  and  a few  of  our  own 
people,  cemented  together,  presenting  a very  good 
outward  fusion,  making  them  seemingly  united,  dif- 
fering from  all  other  people  in  government,  domestic 
life  and  religion.  These  industrious  and  economi- 
cal conglomerated  people  have  taken  from  the  most 
forbidding  frowns  of  forbidding  nature  a country 


,1 


THE  ROAD  FROM  CHEYENNE.  309 

and  converted  it  in, to  fruitful  fields,  filling  homes 
with  plenty  and  gladness. 

The  summer  here  is  about  eight  months  long,  and 
dry;  the  winters  are  mild  and  open;  the  fall  of  snow 
is  light  in  the  valleys  and  heavy  on  the  mountains. 

This,  like  all  the  mountain  country,  is  one  of  the 
healthiest  that  can  be  found.  In  such  an  atmos- 
phere lung  and  throat  diseases  have  no  chance. 
Sad  experience  has  shown  the  folly  of  sending  con- 
sumptives to  the  tropics.  The  invigorating  air  of 
high,  dry  regions,  away  from  salt  water,  has  proven  to 
be  the  most  healthful. 

Salt  Lake  City  is  on  the  commercial  line  across 
the  continent,  and  holds  a future  in  it.  The  invalid 
and  the  pleasure  seeker  can  now  pack  their  trunks, 
step  aboard  the  cars,  and  in  a few  days  arrive  for  a 
season  at  this  mountain  Saratoga,  with  pleasure, 
and  if  in  pursuit  of  health,  with  profit.  The  hot 
Mineral  Springs  here  have  much  curative  virtue. 
The  bathing  is  delicious,  invigorating,  cleansing  and 
softening  the  skin  to  the  texture  of  a child,  and  is 
said  to  be  a sure  cure  for  rheumatic  cripples,  arid  a 
restorative  for  scrofula  and  consumptive  diseases. 

You  see  here  several  of  these  hot  springs  boiling 
up  like  a heated  reservoir;  one  spouting  up  a col- 
umn of  boiling  water  as  large  round  as  a man's  body: 
some  moderately  warm  and  less  active,  while  others 


310 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


are  cool,  but  all  of  the  same  chemical  composition. 
An  analysis  of  the  water  gives  the  following  re- 
sult:— Carbonate  of  lime,  per  oxide  of  iron,  lime, 
chlorine,  soda,  magnesia  and  sulphuric  acid.  It  is 
slightly  charged  with  hydro-sulphuric  acid  gas  and 
with  carbonic  acid  gas,  and  is  a mineral  water  having 
valuable  properties  belonging  to  Saline  Sulphur 
Springs;  usual  temperature  102°  Fah.;  sulphur  pre- 
dominating, like  the  spring  at  Sharon  and  Richfield, 
but  less  odorous.  The  sulphurous  smell  and  great 
clouds  of  steam  and  mist  rising,  with  a back-ground  of 
purple  mountains,  would  have  been  declared  by  the 
ancients  as  the  very  largest  mouth  of  Tartarus. 

Salt  Lake  valley  has  its  own  system  of  rivers  and 
lakes,  different  in  some  respects  from  any  other. 

“The  entire  great  Utah  Basin  is  divided  by  small 
ranges  of  mountains  about  two  thousand  feet  high, 
forming  valleys  from  ten  to  fifteen  miles  across. 
They  slope  imperceptibly  toward  the  centre,  where 
a water  course  runs  to  some  adjacent  valley,  or  into 
some  marshy  place. 

Ojie  well  known  portion  of  this  region  is  the  no- 
ted Death  Valley,  so  called  from  the  fact,  that  in  1850, 
a large  train  of  emigrants  en  route  to  California,  be- 
came discontented  with  their  Mormon  guide,  and  a 
portion  of  them  decided  to  pilot  for  themselves. 

After  traveling  three  days  they  reached  the  val- 


BRIGHAM  YOUNG. 


THE  ROAD  FROM  CHEYENNE. 


311 


ley,  which  is  some  fifty  miles  long  by  thirty  in 
breadth,  lower  than  the  sea  level,  and  entirely  des- 
titute of  water,  encircled  by  mountains,  up  whose 
steep  sides  it  is  impossible  to  ascend  except  at  two 
points.  It  is  devoid  of  vegetation,  and  the  shadow 
of  a bird  or  wild  beast  never  darkens  its  white,  glar- 
ing sand. 

The  little  band  of  emigrants,  comprising  twenty 
families,  were  deceived  by  a treacherous  mirage  that 
promised  water;  but  on  reaching  the  centre  of  this 
vale  of  desolation,  their  eyes  rested  only  on  the  glar- 
ing sands  bounded  by  the  scorched  peaks.  Around 
the  valley  they  wandered.  One  by  one  the  men 
died,  and  the  panting  flocks  stretched  themselves  in 
death  under  the  burning  sun.  Can  any  one  question 
the  appropriateness  of  the  name  ever  since  applied 
to  it — the  Valley  of  Death  ? 

In  marked  contrast  to  this  dreaded  region,  is  the 
beautiful  Valley  of  the  Virgin,  nestling  in  the  Black 
Ridge  range  at  the  southern  ridge  of  the  Great 
Basin  of  Utah.  The  encircling  mountains  rise  to  an 
elevation  of  twelve  hundred  feet,  with  numerous 
peaks  passing  above  the  limit  of  perpetual  snow. 
From  their  summit  \ou  look  down  upon  a vast  ex- 
tent of  country,  with  its  hillsides  and  valleys,  plains 
and  glens;  while  the  Virgin  River  is  seen  rounding 
»ts  course  along  the  foot  of  the  range  many  miles- 


312  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

i 

now  overflowing  a valley,  here  gliding  beneath  over- 
hanging cliffs,  leaping  from  rock  to  rock,  and  then  in 
grand  cascades  rolling  off  granite  ledges  in  sheets  of 
feathery  foam,  on  its  way  to  join  the  Colorado.  In 
the  dim  vista  appear  rugged  peaks  rising  tumultu- 
ously heavenward,  tinted  by  the  sunshine  that  streams 
through  the  mighty  ravines  and  hollows,  filling  them 
with  lines  of  silvery  light  and  purple  shade. 

A large  portion  of  the  Black  Ridge  range  consists 
of  bare  rock,  but  there  are  districts  covered  with  soil 
and  a good  growth  of  pine  trees.  There  are  several 
passes  in  the  range;  the  best,  called  the  Harmony, 
leading  to  St.  George,  the  chief  town  of  Southern 
Utah.  The  climate  is  so  mild  and  genial,  that  the 
fig,  olive,  grape  and  cotton  thrive.  The  hottest  sea- 
son is  from  the  middle  of  June  to  July,  when  the 
thermometer  ranges,  from  95  to  120  degrees  at  noon. 
Frost  lasts  from  November  to  March;  but  snow  is 
rare,  and  ice  never  exceeds  a thin  film. 

Beyond  the  enchanting  valley  are  the  remarkable 
mud  volcanoes,  located  below  the  sea  level  in  the 
Colorado  desert;  and  if  the  waters  of  the  ocean 
could  break  the  intervening  mountain  barriers,  they 
would  be  lost  to  sight.  They  are  situated  in  a most 
desolate  country,  covering  a space  of  a quarter  oi  a 
mile  long  and  an  eighth  wide.  This  area  is  one  mass 
of  so  ft  mud,  through  which  steam  and  water  are  con- 


THE  ROAD  FROM  CHEYENNE.  313 

fitantly  escaping,  making  a noise  that  can  be  heard 
ten  miles ; and  rising  vapor  forms  clouds  that  are 
visible  at  a greater  distance.  In  some  places  the 
steam  rises  steadily  with  a hissing,  roaring,  sputter- 
ing noise;  in  other  spots  it  bursts  out  with  an  explo- 
sion, throwing  the  mud  a hundred  feet  into  the  air. 

There  are  places  where  the  mud  rises  in  huge 
bubbles,  and  bursts  as  if  boiling  with  intense  heat; 
while  in  other  portions  regular  cones,  varying  in 
shape  from  sharp  points  to  little  mounds,  have  been 
formed.  There  are  boiling  springs  which  eject  their 
water  fifty  feet  high;  others  are  merely  large  basins 
several  hundred  feet  across,  in  which  a lead-colored 
paste  is  continually  boiling.  Their  margins  are  en- 
circled by  incrustations  and  arborescent  concretions 
of  lime  and  deposits  of  sulphur.  They  are  well 
worth  a visit,  though  an  excursion  to  them  is  attend- 
ed by  serious  hardships. 

Among  other  objects  of  note  are  the  Summit  Soda 
Springs,  situated  seven  miles  south  of  the  line  of  the 
Central  Pacific  Railroad  in  Summit  Valley,  between 
Lake  Tahoe  and  Donner  Lake.  With  the  exception 
of  the  Yosemite,  there  is  not  in  all  the  Sieira  Nevada 
a spot  of  wilder  magnificence  or  beauty. 

The  road  that  leads  to  them  runs  through  a contin- 
uous sm-eession  of  natural  beauties  of  forests,  glades, 
streamlets  and  mountains’ 


314 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


The  springs  are  near  the  head  waters  of  the  Amer- 
ican River,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  mountain 
streams,  that  forms  a series  of  cascades  near  the 
source.  The  lofty  peaks  of  the  Sierra  loom  up  in 
all  directions,  divided  by  precipitous  canyons,  which 
shelter  dense  forests  of  lofty  evergreens.  The  min- 
eral water  is  most  agreeable  and  apetizing,  possess- 
ing great  medicinal  virtues  in  the  cure  of  affections 
of  the  digestive  organs.  The  springs  can  be  reach- 
ed without  fatigue  by  invalids;  and  the  rough  log 
cabin,  now  the  only  house,  will  be  replaced  this  sea- 
son by  a neat  hotel,  erected  by  the  railroad  compa- 
ny. The  marvelous  beauties  of  this  wild  region  will 
make  it  the  future  Saratoga  of  the  Pacific.” 

The  little  mountain  ocean — “ Salt  Lake” — is  what 
the  Indians  call  Medicine,  or  Mystery,  has  elements 
peculiar  to  itself.  It  is  sixty  miles  long,  by  from 
twenty  to  thirty  wide — has  no  outlet;  but  two  large 
rivers,  the  Jordan  and  Bear,  flowing  into  it,  together 
with  many  other  large  mountain  streams,  which,  dur- 
ing the  rainy  season,  causes  the  lake  to  rise  several 
feet,  but  the  power  of  evaporation  and  absorption 
soon  establishes  an  equilibrium  between  the  loss  and 
supply  of  waters  in  this  country.  This  is  the  highest 
large  body  of  salt  water  in  the  world,  is  very  trans- 
parent, excessively  salt,  and  forms  one  of  the  most 
concentrated  brines  known.  No  animal  or  vegeta- 


THE  ItOAD  FliOM  CHEYENNE. 


315 


ble  life  can  be  found  in  it.  Everything  in  the  wa- 
ter is  incrusted  with  salt — the  want  of  vegetable  mat- 
ter for  food  must  necessarily  exclude  all  kinds  of  ani- 
mated life.  Everything  about  the  lake  is  largely 
covered  with  salt.  It  is  crystalized  from  the  spray 
of  the  waters,  and  is  found  abundantly  on  its  shores, 
on  twigs  and  shrubs. 

The  shores  in  the  summer  season,  where  shallow, 
are  incrusted  in  pure  salt  suitable  for  table  use,  and 
shallow  arms  of  the  lake  present  beds  of  clean  salt 
for  miles.  Some  places  have  large,  deep  beds  of  salt, 
where  it  can  be  taken  up  by  the  wagon  load  for  use. 
The  water  is  so  buoyant,  that  if  a person  assumes  a 
sitting  position,  he  will  not  sink  below  the  shoul- 
ders. Swimming  in  it  is  difficult,  on  account  of  keep- 
ing the  lighter  parts  of  the  body  in  the  water. 

I never  left  a place  more  reluctantly — could  have 
spent  days  of  investigation  upon  the  fascinating,  trans- 
parent water  of  this  remarkable  lake,  with  both  profit 
and  pleasure.  There  is  one  other  body  of  water  in 
the  world  like  this — the  climate  and  country  some- 
what similar.  Go  with  me  to  Bible  land,  where  was 
once  the  renowned  cities  of  Sodom  and  Gomorab,hid 
forever  from  human  vision — the  monuments  of  that 
dreadful  anger  which  the  crimes  of  the  guilty  had 
provoked ! 

The  beautiful  and  productive  valley,  with  all  its 


316 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


busy  life,  of  pride,  wealth  and  arrogance,  defying 
the  Almighty  power,  went  down;  the  river  Jordon 
flowed  in  to  stay.  The  Dead  Sea  was  made  1.300 
feet  below  the  Mediterranean — the  lowest  body  of 
salt  water  in  the  world.  An  eminent  traveler  says: 
“ Ele  lay  like  a cork  upon  its  surface. ’’ 

The  mystery  has  been  solved.  The  specific  grav- 
ity of  water  being  1,000,  this  is  1,211,  a degree  of 
density  unknown  in  any  other  but  Salt  Lake.  As 
the  people  here  are  the  Saints , in  these  latter  days, 
they  will  not  be  the  subjects  of  Almighty  punish- 
ment, like  the  last  named. 

Brigham  Young  is  a great  man,  I answer,  when 
asked  about  him.  No  one  can  doubt  this,  who  is 
acquainted  with  Utah  as  it  now  is,  and  recollect 
what  it  was  when  first  settled  by  him.  He  is  a man 
of  much  shrewdness — far-seeing;  has  thought  much 
and  mingled  much;  observed  closely  the  various 
workings  of  practical  life,  and  is  a man  of  the  high- 
est executive  ability — would  have  succeeded  in  any 
branch  of  a business  life  he  might  have  undertaken. 

Personally,  he  treated  me  with  liberality  and  kind- 
ness, as  the  Mormons  do  all  those  who  visit  among 
them,  and  do  not  make  themselves  obnoxious  by 
undue  interference  with  them.  In  a rambling  con- 
versation with  Brigham  Young,  I referred  to  Joseph 
Smith,  as  not  having  an  unspotted  reputation  when 


SUNDAY  IN  SALT  LAKE  CITY. 


317 


he  lived  in  my  State — not  a good  citizen.  “ The  God 
tiles,”  he  said,  “ know  nothing  as  to  our  religion ; they 
vilify  my  people;  that  to  notice  them,  would  be  too 
great  a sacrifice  for  a man  to  make.  I never  em- 
brace any  man  in  my  religion;  but,  Brother  Smith, 
• (they  always  address  each  other  as  brother  and  sis- 
ter,) established  a religion  that  will  save  us,  if  wo 
embrace  it.” 

Nothing  but  a strong  religious  conviction  (be  that 
right  or  wrong)  could  harmonize  such  opposite,  con 
flicting  human  elements,  and  subvert  the  plainest 
principles  of  our  common  nature. 

SUNDAY  IN  SALT  LAKE  CITY. 

Mr.  Editor: — I am  reminded  of  the  promise  made 
you  in  my  last  letter,  to  give  a Sunday  in  this  place 
with  the  self-styled  Latter  Day  Saints.  Sunday  is  a 
day  here  where  business  places  are  closed.  They 
are  a peculiar  people — zealous  in  good  work  for  the 
only  Church,  in  their  inflated  imaginations — that  in, 
to  keep  unspotted  from  the  world  a peculiarly  favor- 
ed few  of  the  human  family.  The  day  is  observed 
and  respected,  as  far  as  a stranger  can  see  about  the 
city  with  decorum,  amongst  all  the  inhabitants  there- 
of. All  seem  to  put  themselves  on  Sabbath  day  be- 
havior, at  least  on  the  streets. 

The  chosen  people  of  God  are  coming  from  the 
East  and  the  West,  the  North  and  the  South — from 


318 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


the  uttermost  parts  of  the  city,  and  some  from  the 
adjoining  country  — to  the  Tabernacle.  Brigham 
Young  will  preach  at  two  o’clock.  As  there  are  no 
church-going  bells  in  this  Mormon  consecrated  land, 
I availed  myself  of  the  advice  Mr.  Beecher  gave  to 
strangers  desirous  of  finding  his  church,  “to  follow 
the  crowd.”  Service  is  in  the  old  Tabernacle,  which 
will  accommodate  about  two  thousand  persons.  I 
went  early  and  got  a seat;  but  soon  the  house  be- 
came crowded,  the  entrances  filled,  and  many  out- 
side that  could  not  gain  admittance.  These  are  truly 
a church-going  people,  whose  God  is  Brigham  Young , 
and  the  Sainted  Joseph  Smith  their  Bible — the  only 
truly  blessed  on  earth,  and  to  be  blessed  in  Heaven. 

The  audience  are  sorted — all  the  women  occupy 
the  two  rows  of  seats  through  the  centre,  and  the 
men  on  either  side.  The  choir  are  at  one  end  of  the 
house  with  the  organ;  while  at  the  other  there  is 
erected  a gallery  capable  of  seating  one  hundred  and 
fifty  or  more  of  the  great  men,  with  a small  modest 
looking  pulpit  in  the  centre.  There  the  Bishops,  the 
Twelves  and  Seventys,  and  all  the  inspired  Prophets 
and  Apostles  discourse  wise  counsel,  look  demurely, 
and  pronounce  heavenly  blessings  upon  their  devo- 
ted, bigoted,  deluded,  ignorant  followers. 

The  choir  sing  a hymn,  then  preaching  begins, 
and  the  sacrament  is  administered  at  the  same  time. 


SUNDAY  IN  SALT  LAKE  CITY.  o •> 

! 

Real  work  now  goes  on,  the  hardest  of  which  is  the 
preaching.  Several  loaves  of  bread  are  cut  in  slices 
and  piled  upon  large  platters,  on  a table  in  front  of 
the  pulpit,  where  it  is  broken  in  small  pieces  by  a 
few  men,  and  put  in  baskets.  Several  men  take  and 
pass  them  through  the  audience  as  seated.  After 
all  are  served,  a number  of  large  pitchers  are  filled 
with  water  and  refilled  until  all  are  supplied,  when 
the  sacramental  service  is  finished.  This  is  re- 
peated every  Sabbath  in  a wholesale  way,  to  give 
the  sacrament  to  between  two  and  three  thousand 
persons  during  the  time  of  preaching.  They  are 
open-communion ; everybody  can  partake  if  he 
wishes.  The  preaching  is  more  after  the  order  of  a 
political  convention  in  the  States  than  Church  wor- 
ship. No  text  is  taken,  but  any  one  of  the  priest- 
hood gets  up  and  says  what  he  pleases — speaks  his 
own  thoughts  in  his  own  language,  in  his  own  way; 
perhaps  several  will  talk  during  one  meeting.  Their 
sermons,  (if  I may  call  them  by  that  name,)  are  of  a 
business  character;  indeed,  they  use  the  day  for 
business  instruction  and  direction  of  the  coming 
week,  the  every  day  matters  of  life,  what  they  must 
do,  and  what  they  must  not  do,  to  make  themselves 
united,  prosperous  and  strong;  to  combat  and  re- 
sist the  wickedness  of  the  gentile  world.  Brigham 
deprecated  severely  the  dissenters  from  the  Church; 


3^11  BEYOND  1 HE  WEST. 

called  them  some  names  that  would  not  look  well  on 
paper;  instructed  his  people  not  to  trade  with  or 
give  their  money  to  any  but  their  own  brotherhood, 
even  if  they  were  obliged  to  pay  much  more.  If 
they  did,  he  said,  they  should  not  go  to  Heaven,  as 
I the  Sainted  Priesthood  would  be  there  to  testify 
against  them;  that  the  Almighty  had  directed, 
guided  and  prospered  them  in  the  midst  of  these 
naked,  unproductive  mountains,  in  the  valleys  of 
which  the  great  God  was  gathering  to  himself  a few 
of  the  faithful  from  all  the  different  families  of  man, 
through  whom  he  would  save  and  bless  ultimately  a 
few  of  all  the  different  races  of  the  human  family. 
The  others  would  all  be  lost  at  the  judgment  day, 
as  Joseph  Smith  and  he  (Brigham)  and  Jesus  Christ 
would  be  there  to  judge  a sinful  world. 

1 looked  over  the  assembled  multitude  with  ttie 
intention  of  doing  them  justice,  and  truth  compels 
me  to  say  that  it  is  very  seldom  so  many  nationali- 
ties can  be  brought  together,  where  the  animal  more 
largely  predominated,  and  less  of  the  intellectual. 

Some  of  the  language  that  went  out  over  the 
sacred  altar  did  not  conform  to  any  religious  or  gram- 
matical standard  of  the  English  language  with  which 
your  humble  correspondent  is  acquainted.  They 
are  a heterogeneous  community,  mostly  of  the  work- 
ing class  from  the  old  countries,  bigoted,  and  con- 
trolled by  a few  more  intelligent  leaders. 


SUNDAY  IN  SALT  LAKE  CITY.  321 

Brigham  Young  rules  all  things  in  HeaVen  above 
and  in  the  Earth  beneath  as  to  Mormondom;  all 
things  are  measured  and  controlled  by  his  Church 
standard.  Tfyere  was  no  other  Church  in  Utah  un- 
til within  a few  weeks.  Rev.  Mr.  Foot,  an  Episcopal 
clergyman  from  New  York,  came  here  and  estab 
lished  the  Church  with  good  promise  of  success. 
Mr.  Foot  is  a young  man  of  commanding  ability, 
well  calculated  to  plant  the  Church  and  make  it  suc- 
cessful, even  among  these  bigoted  people.  But  there 
are  a few  good  church  people  here,  and  many  others 
who  are  not  in  communion  with  the  Saints,  who  give 
this  Church  their  presence  and  support,  and  will 
give  it  permanent  prosperity. 

The  Mormon  Church  is  now  receiving  a large 
revenue  annually,  as  one-tenth  of  all  that  the  ground 
produces;  of  all  that  every  man  or  woman  raises  by 
labor,  by  trade,  by  mechanics,  or  in  any  other  way; 
not  one-tenth  of  the  net  income,  but  one-tenth  part 
of  whatever  human  industry  and  skill  produces  is 
used  for  that  purpose.  The  church  property  is  lo- 
cated in  a ten  acre  lot,  enclosed  with  a wall  laid  up 
in  solid  masonry  twelve  feet  high,  with  large,  double 
gates  as  entrances.  The  new  Tabernacle  is  now 
nearly  completed;  is  one  of  the  largest  and  finest 
erections  in  this  country;  is  capable  of  accommo- 
dating ten  thousand  people;  covers  the  most  ground 


/ 


r6Z'l  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

without  inside  supports  of  any  other  building.  A 
large  number  of  cut  stone  columns  are  first  built  about 
twenty-five  feet  apart,  the  space  between  to  be 
filled  with  large  folding  doors,  to  oppn  in  summer 
and  close  in  winter.  The  superstructure  is  one  of 
the  most  perfect  specimens  of  architecture  that  can 
be  found  anywhere;  its  amplitude  and  beauty  de- 
mands admiration.  The  largest  organ  in  the  world, 
as  they  say,  is  now  being  built  for  their  use  here. 

The  foundation  to  their  Temple  is  finished,  and  if 
completed  according  to  the  beginning  and  plan,  will 
be  a magnificent  erection.  The  hard  earnings  of  a 
poor,  ignorant  and  bigoted  community  are  here  piled 
up,  layer  upon  layer,  stone  upon  stone  heavenward, 
worthy  of  a better  expenditure,  to  gratify  the  as- 
piration and  perpetuate  the  ignominious  name  and 
fame  of  a great  self-styled  patriarch  and  potentate. 

We  envy  not  the  man  who  has  no  better  monu 
ment  to  go  down  to  posterity  (in  these  times)  than 
to  build  Egyptian  Pyramids  out  of  the  hard  earn- 
ings of  the  poor  working  man,  like  some  of  the  kings 
of  the  old  world,  who  supposed  they  had  a divine 
right  to  pile  up,  if  they  chose,  all  the  rest  of  man- 
kind to  make  themselves  a road  to  get  into  heaven. 

Salt  Lake  City,  July  5,  1867.  G.  W.  P. 

It  would  seem  that  something  good  can  come 
even  out  of  Nazareth.  The  following  effusion  was 


MORMON  TABERNACLE  AND  ENDOWMENT  HOUSE. 


MORMON  SETTLEMENTS. 


32  b 


written  by  a Salt  Lake  City  poetess,  on  the  receipt 
of  the  telegraph  news  of  the  assassination  of  Presi- 
dent Lincoln : 

Every  home  and  hall  was  shrouded, 

Every  thoroughfare  was  still, 

Every  brow  was  darkly  clouded, 

Every  heart  was  faint  and  chill. 

O ! the  inky  drop  of  poison 
In  our  bitter  draught  of  grief ! 

O ! the  sorrow  of  a nation 
Mourning  for  its  murdered  chief. 

Strongest  arms  were  closely  folded, 

Most  impassioned  lips  at  rest ; 

Scarcely  seemed  a heaving  motion 
In  the  nation’s  wounded  breast. 

Tears  were  frozen  in  their  sources, 

Blushes  burned  themselves  away, 

Language  bled  through  broken  heart  threads, 

Lips  had  nothing  else  to  say. 

Yet  there  was  a marble  sorrow 
In  each  still  face,  chiselled  deep, 

Something  more  than  words  could  utter, 

Something  more  than  tears  could  weep. 

O ! the  land  he  loved  will  miss  him. 

Miss  him  in  its  hour  of  need  ! 

Mourns  the  nation  for  the  nation , 

Till  its  tear-drops  inward  bleed. 

The  government  of  the  Mormons  bears  a resem- 
blance to  that  of  Turkey.  Mahomet,  the  founder 
of  Mahometan  religion,  was  subject  to  epileptic  fits 
which  furnished  him  with  convenient  opportunities 
for  communications  with  the  “ Spirit  Land,”  in  which 
he  received  new  chapters  to  be  added  to  the  Koran 


321 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


justifying  him  in  what  he  wished  to  undertake. 
We  might  with  propriety  substitute  Brigham 
Young’s  name  here  for  Mahomet’s,  as  he  professes 
to  receive  from  a divine  source  an  authorization  to 
do  whatever  his  false  professorship  may  desire,  and 
thus  proselyte  a poor,  ignorant  multitude  of  follow- 
ers. 

While  speaking  of  these  eratic  people  we  are  re- 
i minded  of  the  domestic  relations  of  Turkey,  the 
government  of  which  is  an  absolute  monarchy.  So 
also  is  the  Mormon  Church  rule,  or  Brigham  Young’s 
government,  which  is  taken  from  their  Koran,  and 
is  altogether  oriental.  The  supreme  government  of 
“ Latter  Day  Saints”  seems  to  consist  of  a President 
and  Prophet  united,  who  is  Brigham  Young,  a reve- 
i lator  and  the  vicegerent  of  heaven.  He  has  three 
chief  counselors  associated  with  him,  then  twelve 
apostles,  then  bishops  enough  to  have  one  in  each 
town  and  village.  The  bishop  is  judge,  jury,  ruler, 
alcalde,  teacher,  preacher,  magistrate,  and  perhaps 
store-keeper,  manufacturer,  farmer,  or  hotel-keeper 
of  the  village.  Then  there  are  several  subordinate 
officers  under  the  control  of  the  bishop,  omnis  homo. 
Young  makes  all  the  appointments,  and  manages 
generally  to  get  the  right  man  in  the  right  place  for 
him. 

In  Turkey  the  Sultan  is  supreme,  uniting  in  his 


MORMON  SETTLEMENTS. 


32  "j 


person  the  highest  spiritual  dignity  with  the  su- 
preme secular  authority.  He  makes  the  laws,  but 
is  not  in  any  way  subject  to  them.  The  Sultan  is 
not  a crowned  monarch,  but  girds  on  the  sword  of 
Osman,  and  is  sworn  to  defend  the  religion  of  Ma- 
homet. 

Brigham  Young  also  took  up  the  Mormon’s  slaugh- 
tered prophet’s  sword,  where  it  was  stricken  from 
his  hand,  and  is  (at  least  in  his  own  estimation)  ap- 
pointed of  Heaven,  and  sworn  by  his  followers  to 
maintain  and  perpetuate  the  religion  of  their  more 
modern  Mahomet. 

The  Koran  of  Turkey  properly  gives  the  Sultan 
but  four  wives,  but  the  Sultan  gives  it  a liberal 
construction,  and  takes  as  many  as  his  fancy  dictates. 

Brigham  Young  gives  his  Koran  a very  liberal 
construction,  and  also  takes  as  many  wives  as  his 
fancy  dictates.  The  lives  of  the  women  of  an  im- 
perial harem  is  monotonous,  one  unvarying  round 
of  dressing,  walking  in  the  pleasure  grounds  and 
attending  dances,  where  “music  arose  with  its  volup- 
tuous swell,”  being  wholly  prohibited  from  mingling 
with  the  world  outside  of  their  prison  house.  Not 
so  with  Brigham  Young’s  wives;  they  are  self-sup- 
porting as  far  as  it  is  possible  for  them  to  be.  He 
is  a great  utilitarian;  all  his  family  must  be  indus- 
trious and  economical.  His  wives  each  have  separate 


326 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


! 

i 


apartment^  take  care  of  their  own  household,  and 
are,  to  a large  extent,  separate  families.  Here,  as 
in  Turkey,  the  grandees,  the  great  officers  of  Church 
and  State,  and  all  whose  wealth  will  admit  of  it, 
have  their  seraglios.  Here  a marriage  ceremony 
is  performed  each  time  a man  takes  a wife;  but  mar- 
riage, as  understood  by  a Christianized  people,  has 
no  place  in  Turkey. 

Mr.  Young’s  family  does  not  number  more  than 
a few  hundred,  while  that  of  the  reigning  Sultan 
amounts  to  as  many  thousands. 

By  the  religion  of  Mahomet  and  Young,  women 
are  not  considered  as  having  souls  of  the  same  grade 
as  men,  and  are  admitted  into  His  paradise  on  high 
only  as  men  take  them  along. 

We  have  thus  briefly  run  a few  parallels  between 
these  two  systems,  not  for  the  purpose  of  favoring 
either,  but  because  they  are  in  many  ways  so  much 
alike,  and  leave  the  good  Christian  reader  to  make 
his  own  conclusions  as  to  the  unnatural,  unholy  prac- 
tices of  these  people — forbidden  of  God  and  common 
humanity.  Such  a domestic  life  is  like  an  island  with 
a stream  of  cold  water  flowing  all  around  it — not  a 
part  of  the  main  land,  fragrant  with  the  holy  associa- 
tions of  one  father  and  one  faithful  mother. 

If  tliou  hast  crushed  a flower. 

The  root  may  not  bQ  blighted  ; 

If  thou  hast  quenched  a lamp, 


MORMON  SETTLEMENTS. 


327 


Once  more  it  may  be  lighted ; 

But  on  thy  heart,  or  on  thy  lute, 

The  string  which  thou  hast  broken, 

Shall  never  in  sweet  sound  again 
Give  to  thy  touch  a token ! 

If  thou  hast  loosed  a bird, 

Whose  voice  of  song  could  cheer  thee, 

Still,  still  he  may  be  won 
From  the  skies  to  warble  near  thee; 

But  if  upon  the  troubled  sea 

Thou  hast  thrown  a gem  unheeded, 

Hope  not  that  the  wind  or  wave  shall  bring 
The  treasure  back  when  needed ! 

If  thou  hast  bruised  a vine, 

The  summer’s  breath  is  healing. 

And  its  cluster  yet  may  glow 

Through  the  leaves  their  bloom  revealing; 

But  if  thou  hast  a cup  o’erthrown 
With  a bright  draught  filled — oh!  never 
Shall  the  earth  give  back  that  lavished  wealth 
To  cool  thy  parched  lip’s  fever ! 

The  heart  is  like  that  cup. 

If  thou  waste  the  love  it  bore  thee, 

And  like  that  jewel  gone, 

Which  the  deep  will  not  restore  thee; 

And  like  that  string  of  harp  or  lute 
Whence  the  sweet  sound  is  scattered — 

Gently,  oh ! gently  touch  the  chords, 

So  soon  forever  shattered !” 

We  are  ready  to  acknowledge  that  it  is  difficult 
to  give  our  impressions  of  these — the  Latter  Day 
Saints — with  feelings  evenly  balanced.  We  had  out 
prejudices  before  going  among  them,  and  with  diffi- 
culty could  they  be  wholly  overcome;  yet  we  tried 


328 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


to  get  right  impressions — to  see  and  know  them  as 
they  are  in  their  own  land,  and  in  their  own  homes, 
as  individuals,  as  families,  and  as  a great  people; 
thh  government  of  which  is  a despotism,  the  most 
perfect  union  of  Church  and  State  in  the  world — in- 
flexible in  its  exactions,  omnipresent  in  its  watch- 
fulness, foresighted  in  its  plans  and  unscrupulous  in 
getting  means  to  attain  its  ends. 

One  receives  the  impression  that  Brigham  Young 
is  general  proprietor — owns  everything,  the  real  es- 
tate, the  industry,  machinery,  animals,  and  all  the 
Mormons.  Indirectly  he  does,  because  he  has  no  supe- 
rior power  on  earth — is  a prophet,  inspired  of  Heav- 
en; can  do  no  wrong;  is  too  superhuman  to  be  ques- 
tioned; being  President  and  Governor,  gives  him 
the  power  of  handling  the  property  as  best  suits  his 
purpose.  He  is  the  embodiment  of  irresponsible 
power,  such  as  is  dangerous  and  despotic,  in  any 
mortal  man's  hands. 

His  position  is  such,  that  if  he  does  not  violate 
numan  nature,  and  take  from  honest  toil  and  honesty 
enough  to  enrich  himself  beyond  all  other  men,  it  is 
not  for  lack  of  opportunity,  or  authority,  or  induce- 
ment to  take  it,  for  he  holds  in  the  eyes  of  his  peo- 
ple all  the  authority  that  heaven  and  earth  can  be- 
stow upon  him — he  alone  is  prophet  and  king! 

Mot  a man,  among  all  his  subjects,  dares  to  dis- 


MORMON  SETTLEMENTS.  329 

regard  his  orders.  Notwithstanding  this  would-be 
great  “I  am”  power,  who  has  enriched  himself  be- 
yond any  other  man  in  this  country,  from  the  hard 
labor  of  an  ignorant  multitude  of  followers,  yet  I 
freely  confess  that  much  good  has  been  done,  in  gath- 
ering the  poor  from  various  parts  of  the  land;  unit- 
ing them  together;  making  them  earn  a better  living 
than  they  ever  had  before;  and  as  much,  if  not  more 
civilization  than  they  had  before  coming  here. 

Viewing  these  people  in  the  light  of  the  high  civ- 
ilization which  charaterizes  our  people  of  the  pres- 
ent day,  we  must  regard  the  Mormon  system  as  insuf- 
ferable licentiousness.  This  heavy,  dark  cloud  of  a 
dark  night,  which  they  spread  over  themselves,  seems 
too  obscure,  and  almost  covers  up  that  which,  under 
other  circumstances,  would  receive  the  enthusiastic 
praise  of  all  good  people,  for  what  they  have  done 
towards  developing  our  country  under  so  many  ad- 
verse circumstances. 

These  people  must  be  under  the  influence  of  a fa- 
naticism, remirkable  for  this  enlightened  age,  when 
they  believe  that  the  Prophet  Smith,  in  1826,  found 
in  the  depth  of  the  earth,  brass  plates  that  had  been 
there  for  many  centuries,  by  a perpetual  miracle  in 
the  State  of  New  York,  town  of  Palmyra — that  the 
plates  were  so  ancient  that  no  one  but  he,  the  mirac- 
ulously endowed,  could  decipher  the  wonderful  lan 


830 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


guage.  Yet,  they  were  found  in  a rough  box,  such 
as  is  used  for  common  window  glass.  This  was  a 
bigger  thing  than  even  the  “ Cardiff  Giant.” 

Smith  interpreted  the  plates,  with  a stone  in  his 
hat,  (perhaps  it  was  the  Stone  Giant,  for  he  was  found 
in  that  neighborhood !)  while  another  man  wrote 
down  the  revelation — which  made  the  Book  of  Mor- 
mon. Nothing  but  a remarkable  fanaticism  could 
entertain  such  material;  every  principle  of  humanity 
and  common  sense  is  outraged  by  its  sacrilegious  pre- 
tensions. The  leading  principle  of  their  faith  and 
practice  does  not  seem  to  have  been  on  the  miracu- 
lous plates;  but  Joseph  Smith,  subsequently,  had  a 
revelation  authorizing  and  establishing  plurality  of 
wives,  as  the  perfection  and  crowning  work  of  their 
religion,  while  he  was  at  Nauvoo,  in  1843.  This 
new  and  everlasting  covenant,  he  said,  was  institu- 
ted before  the  foundation  of  the  world,  and  was  given 
him  to  establish  the  fullness  of  his  glory:  And  ver- 

ily, verily,  I say  unto  you,  (Smith,)  that  whatsover 
you  seal  on  earth,  shall  be  sealed  in  Heaven ! and 
whatsoever  you  bind  on  earth  in  my  name  and  by 
my  word,  saith  the  Lord,  it  shall  be  eternally  bound 
in  Heaven;  and  whosesoever  sins  you  remit  on  earth 
shall  be  remitted  eternally  in  the  heavens;  and  whose- 
soever sins  you  retain  on  earth,  shall  be  retained  in 
Heaven. r Such  an  assumption  of  superhuman  pow- 


MOKMON  SETTLEMENTS. 


331 


er  can  be  entertained  only  by  a person  filled  with 
feverish  fanaticism 

Plurality  of  wives,  more  especially  with  the  offi- 
cers of  the  Church,  seems  to  be  the  ground  work  of 
their  faith,  and  they  pride  themselves  on  the  num- 
ber they  have,  and  can  be  made  to  live  with  them 
reconciled,  and  be  peaceful,  rival  wives.  They,  like 
the  Indians  owning  horses,  seem  to  feel  their  superi- 
ority, and  that  they  are  to  be  good  and  holy  men: 
receive  honor  in  proportion  to  the  number  they  have. 
We  were  informed  that  Young  had  three  daughters, 
the  wives  of  one  man.  By  no  way  can  you  learn 
how  many  wives  Brigham  Young  has,  if  he  knows 
himself;  but  it  is  said  he  does  not  always  know  his 
own  children.  How  a man  can  support  several  wives 
is  a matter  of  little  wonder,  when  we  Gentiles  are 
obliged  to  work  in  season  and  out  of  season  some- 
times to  give  even  one  a liberal  support.  But  they 
say  their  wives  are  self-supporting — they  sew,  make 
gloves  and  mittens,  knit,  dry  a large  variety  of  fruit, 
can  peaches  and  other  fruits,  put  up  garden  seeds, 
spin  and  weave,  (not  street  yarn!)  but  always  doing 
something  that  will  give  at  least  a little  return. 

Then,  too,  as  a community,  they  do  not  change 
their  bonnets  and  dresses — have  rich  silks,  furs,  gold 
watches,  with  each  change  of  the  season,  like  the 
ladies  of  the  outer  world.  They  are  no  doubt  hav- 


332 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


ing  as  comfortable,  and  perhaps  a better  living,  most 
of  them,  than  they  ever  had  before  they  were  Mor- 
mons. They  had  an  humble  origin — have  had  a very 
humble,  degraded  life — have  no  wants  beyond  those 
imperatively  demanded  by  nature. 

While  the  Government  will  not,  we  hope,  perse- 
cute a hundred  thousand  people  by  making  war  upon 
their  homes,  yet  they  cannot  be  received  into  the 
community  of  States,  as  long  as  such  a system  pre- 
vails among  them,  for  in  that  event  all  the  leaders 
would  be  fit  subjects  for  the  Penitentiary ! 

Mormonism  is  a dark  spot  on  our  now  clear-shin- 
ing sky  of  a free  civilization — a perversion  of  the 
real  affections  of  the  human  heart — mockery  of  the 
family  relation — a ludicrous  perversion  of  true  reli- 
gion. The  past  history  of  these  people  shows  be- 
yond all  question  that  their  peculiar  institution  can- 
not be  sustained.  When  surrounded  by  a high  stand- 
ard of  civilization,  it  must  either  go  down  or  travel 
to  some  uninhabited  country.  While  they  were  al- 
most hid  away  from  the  outer  world,  in  their  moun- 
tain valley  home,  life  was  prosperous  with  them,  and 
their  favorite  plurality  system  grew  in  proportion  to 
their  prosperity,  till  now  it  presents  a strong  front; 
but  how  long  it  can  now  maintain  its  present  strength 
is  uncertain. 

They  could,  while  isolated,  maintain  their  unholy 


MORMON  SETTLEMENTS.  333 

system ; but  now,  when  the  iron  track  has  climbed 
over  the  mountains,  and  is  fastened  at  their  very 
doors,  it  will  no  doubt  let  darkness  out  and  light  in. 
The  influence  of  that  same  civilization  from  which 
they  fled  years  ago,  is  again  in  their  midst — which 
will,  most  assuredly,  in  time  bring  all  enemies  under 
its  feet.  As  for  the  threatenings  of  Brigham  Young, 
that  he  will  oppose  the  United  States  Government 
as  much  as  he  pleases,  is  talk  only.  He  has  had  too 
much  experience,  and  is  shrewd  enough  not  to  fortify 
another  Echo  Canyon  to  oppose  our  soldiers. 

Above  the  Sainted  City,  on  a plateau  in  the  foot 
hills,  is  “ Camp  Douglass,”  filled  with  brave  United 
States  troops,  commanded  by  a gentlemanly  and 
brave  General.  A little  army  of  observation  com 
mands  the  city,  exercising  a potent  political  and 
moral  restraining  power  upon  the  despotic  rule  of 
the  Mormon  Church — giving  protection  to  all  men 
and  women  who  desire  the  safe  shelter  of  the  National 
flag.  After  our  recent  terrible  conflict  to  reestab- 
lish the  supremacy  of  our  Government,  Young  very 
well  knows  that  rebellion  wou’d  be  utter  ruin — that 
the  very  first  attempt  of  resistance  to  this  Govern- 
ment would  recoil  and  crush  him.  While  they  were 
shut  away  in  this  deep  valley,  by  thousands  of  miles 
of  dreary  mountains  and  great  deserts  they  could 
maintain  their  diabolical  institution.  But  the  great 


334 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


railroads  have  brought  the  world  to  them  as  of  old, 
and  they  mU't  now  compete  for  commerce  and  busi- 
ness, as  they  are  no  longer  able  to  keep  them  away 
by  high-handed  laws. 

We  can  see  no  great  brilliant  future  for  Mormon- 
ism.  This,  like  all  unnatural,  unholy  mushroom-isms, 
after  a brief  existence,  must  die  and  be  buried — no- 
body but  its  own  votaries  cares  how.  The  dictates, 
the  instincts  of  every  unbiased  heart’s  past  experi- 
ence; the  general  spirit  ot  our  country;  our  great 
civilization,  and  the  teachings  of  religion,  hold  out 
their  hands  to  remove  this  dark  page  from  our  Na- 
tional history. 

The  sooner  Brigham  Young  receives  another  crown- 
ing revelation,  that  polygamy  is  no  longer  to  be  tol- 
erated, the  better.  We  were  in  several  families 
while  in  Salt  Lake  City,  where  there  were  from  two 
to  eight  wives;  but  it  was  seldom  I could  see  more 
than  one  about  the  house;  the  others  would  dodge, 
and  keep  where  they  could  not  be  seen,  as  if  con- 
scious of  their  degradation  in  the  presence  of  stran- 
gers. One  can  easily  see  that  they  are  victims  of 
deep  shame,  and  who  would  rejoice  at  deliverance, 
notwithstanding  her  sainted  lord's  preaching  to  make 
her  believe  that  her  forced  life  is  sanctioned  by  reli 
gion,  and  that  her  heaven  will  be  happy  only  in  pro- 
portion as  she  conforms  to  his  wishes,  and  is  obedi 


THE  CONTINENTAL  RAILROADS. 


835 


ent  to  his  requirements.  God  created  in  the  full- 
ness of  perfection,  one  man  and  one  woman  in  Eden, 
and  gave  them  to  each  other.  These,  with  their  chil- 
dren, make  the  family — the  home.  Whoever  pre- 
tends to  be  wiser,  or  wickeder  than  this,  will  find 
himself  contending  against  the  immutable  laws  which 
the  Supreme  Ruler  has  established  for  the  guidance 
of  his  children.  During  my  stay  here,  I found  much 
to  admire,  many  to  respect — communed  with  pleas- 
ure and  profit  before  its  remarkable  nature. 

THE  CONTINENTAL  RAILROADS — THE  MIDLAND  ROUTE 
AGREED  UPON  BY  CONGRESS. 

Our  space  will  not  permit  of  more  than  a brief  ref- 
erence to  the  origin,  history  and  completion  of  this 
great  enterprise.  But  a few  years  ago  it  required 
six  months  to  make  the  journey  from  any  of  the  out- 
fitting places  along  the  Missouri  River  to  California, 
with  oxen  or  mule  teams.  The  emigrant  crept  along 
a few  miles  per  day,  under  the  scorching  sun,  over 
the  plaius,  in  a cloud  of  alkaline  dust  which  his  team 
made — a long  journey  of  terrible  suffering,  to  men 
and  animals,  from  exposure,  hard  labor,  hunger  and 
thirst.  Should  the  emigrant  be  unfortunate,  and  be 
caught  out  in  winter,  it  would  take  five  months  long- 
er, with  sufferings  and  dangers  increased.  Notwith- 
standing the  remarkable  deprivations  and  sufferings 


336 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


which  must  necessarily  be  endured  over  a great  part 
of  this  overland  route,  yet  the  first  ten  years  after 
gold  was  discovered  in  California,  it  gained  a popu- 
lation three  times  as  large  as  the  Nation  did  the  first 
sixty-eight  years  after  the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims. 
Such  was  the  love  of  shining  gold  ! 

Twenty  three  years  ago,  when  General  Fremont 
was  exploring  these  desolate  regions,  there  was  a 
Welshman  at  Dubuque,  Iowa,  by  the  name  of  Plumb, 
who  talked  and  wrote  as  to  the  practicability  of 
making  a railroad  from  the  Great  Lakes  to  Oregon 
and  the  Pacific.  He  was  an  engineer  by  business 
and  profession.  When  he  first  agitated  the  subject, 
there  were  but  few  railroads  in  the  country — very 
little  population  beyond  Ohio.  The  seeds  of  the 
now  great  city  of  Chicago  were  then  just  planted  in 
the  centre  of  a vast  unoccupied  prairie.  Then  trap 
pers  and  tribes  of  Indians  seemed  to  own  all  the  ter- 
ritory west  of  the  Mississippi.  Here  lay  compara- 
tively an  unknown  land  of  two  thousand  three  hun- 
dred miles,  across  which  Plumb’s  railroad,  more  a 
dream  than  a reality,  was  to  be  built.  He  never 
relinquished  this  his  favorite  plan,  and  lived  long 
enough  to  see  his  early  dream  made  into  reality. 

. In  1846,  Asa  Whitney  came  out  with  strength  and 
ability,  advocating  the  construction  of  a railway  from 
the  Mississippi  to  Puget  Sound;  but  he  could  not 


THE  CONTINENTAL  RAILROADS.  337 

obtain  either  encouragement  or  aid,  and  his  project 
failed.  Thomas  H.  Benton,  tvveuty  years  ago,  advo- 
cated and  urged  this  work  upon  the  country,  with 
an  eloquence  worthy  of  the  man.  Would  that  we 
had  space  to  quote  some  of  his  own  beautiful  lan- 
guage, in  his  address  before  the  first  National  Con- 
vention, held  at  St.  Louis,  in  1849,  to  consider  the 
subject  of  a railroad  to  the  Pacific. 

Hon.  Thomas  Allen,  of  Pittsfield,  made  the  call  for 
this  Convention,  addressed  to  the  people.  He  wrote 
also  the  address  of  the  Convention  to  the  Nation — also 
the  Memorial  to  Congress,  urging  them  to  donate 
land  and  bonds.  His  plan  was  ultimately  adopted, 
and  was  the  basis  upon  which  the  Pacific  Railroads 
were  built.  Benton  introduced  the  first  bill  in  Con- 
gress on  this  subject,  and  pleads  that  the  Nation 
shall  construct  the  road  from  the  Missouri  to  the 
Pacific.  He  went  further,  stood  higher,  than  any  of 
his  associates  in  his  able  speach;  he  goes  back  three 
centuries  and  a half,  and  views  Columbus  searching 
for  the  East  by  traveling  West.  He  finds  him  stop- 
ped by  a Continent  which  he  discovered — yet  his 
great  thought--*  find  the  East  by  going  West’7 — has 
never  died.  Franklin,  Kane,  and  many  other  navi- 
gators, sacrificed  their  lives  in  attempting  to  solve 
the  problem.  But  it  seemed  to  bejeft  for  our  peo- 
ple and  this  Republic  to  accomplish  the  far-seeing 


338 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


r^= 


i 


purpose  of  Columbus,  by  establishing  a world’s  high- 
way over  a Continent,  transforming  the  ship  into 
a railroad  car,  which  day  by  day,  and  every  day, 
is  launched  on  the  plains,  towards  the  mountains 
westward.  This  steam  car  ship  of  the  desert  goes 
forth  in  its  majesty  and  strength  each  day,  freighted 
with  more  valuable  material,  more  intellect  than 
any  ship  that  ever  circumnavigated  the  globe. 

This  was  not  the  “ baseless  fabric  of  a vision,”  with 
the  penetrating  mind  of  Benton.  He  saw  in  his  im- 
agination the  iron  horse  pulling  its  train  of  cars  la- 
den with  the  productions  of  the  world,  and  in  its 
course  whistle  our  praise  and  breathe  in  its  capa- 
cious lungs  our  enterprise  over  desert  plains  and 
mountains  vast  across  this  great  Continent. 

Our  recent  war  seems  to  have  more  fully  develop- 
ed the  great  necessity  of  this  work,  although  the 
routes  had  been  thoroughly  surveyed;  yet  the  Gov- 
ernment was  not  prepared  to  undertake  the  great 
enterprise.  Congress  had  appropriated  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  thousand  dollars.  In  all,  ten  surveys 
were  made,  from  the  far  South  to  the  extreme  North, 
and  published  in  several  large  volumes,  illustrated 
by  drawings.  After  a very  careful  comparison  and 
investigation  of  these  several  reports  by  Congress, 
the  middle  routp  was  decided  upon  and  adopted. 

The  surveying  party,  which  we  will  now  join  in 


THE  CONTINENTAL  RAILROADS. 


339 


imagination,  start  at  Omaha,  on  the  Missouri  River, 
nine  hundred  and  eight  feet  above  tide  water,  pass- 
ing through  the  valley  of  the  Platte  River,  crossing 
it  once,  till  they  reach  the  highest  summit  of  the 
Bocky  Mountains,  eight  thousand  four  hundred  and 
twenty-four  feet  above  the  ocean.  This  is  the  high- 
est point  iu  all  the  survey;  but  the  rise  has  been 
so  gradual,  that  you  can’t  realize  that  you  are  on 
the  summit  of  the  Continent.  You  now  pass  over 
what  is  mostly  a desert  plateau,  four  hundred  and 
twenty-one  miles  to  Echo  Canyon,  from  five  thousand 
to  seven  thousand  five  hundred  feet  elevation.  You 
begin  to  understand  what  a desert  means.  It  is  a 
plateau,  once  the  bottom  of  an  ocean,  heaved  up  by 
volcanic  agency,  while  here  and  there  in  it  is  a sharp, 
thrusting  up  of  rocks  in  ridges,  looking  as  if  they 
belonged  to  some  world  worn  out  and  left. 

Passing  through  that  wonderful  place,  Echo  Can- 
yon, you  now  enter  another  plateau,  about  five  hun- 
dred miles  in  extent,  but  ribbed  with  naked  moun- 
tains, rising  from  five  thousand  to  seven  thousand 
feet.  This  second  and  last  plateau  brings  you  to  the 
Sierra  Nevada  Mountains. 

Where  you  cross  over  this  lofty  ridge,  at  the  pass 
near  Doner  Like,  is  seven  thousand  and  sixty-two 
feet  above  the  sea.  You  must  now  descend  two  thou- 
sand five  hundred  and  seventeen  feet  in  the  next  fit- 


340 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


ty  miles.  In  the  next  ninety-eight  miles  you  must 
descend  six  thousand  nine  hundred  and  sixty-six  feet 
more.  You  are  now  over  and  in  the  valley  of  the 
Sacramento.  This  was  the  path  marked  out  when 
Congress  passed  the  Pacific  Railroad  Bill,  to  connect 
the  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific. 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 

THE  UNION  PACIFIC  COMPANY — EARLY  HISTORY — CON- 
STRUCTION AND  COMPLETION. 

The  Union  Pacific  Company  owns  from  Omaha  to 
Promontory — 1,085  miles.  This  Company  is  a New 
York  organization,  composed  of  about  a dozen  men, 
practically,  who  have  built  the  road  and  own  the 
most  of  it.  They  had  the  work  done  by  contract — 
that  is,  a company  within  a company,  and  the  profits 
upon  construction  have  been  very  large. 

The  immense  amount  of  materials  piled  upon  the 
river  bank  at  Omaha,  indicate  the  great  work.  The 
thousands  of  men,  teams,  ties,  rails,  and  the  many 
appliances,  cover  the  bank  for  miles.  The  great 
cast  iron  tubes  are  also  there,  seventy  feet  long  and 
eight  feet  in  diameter:  one  to  be  placed  below  low 
water-mark  and  the  other  above  it,  properly  fastened 
together.  They  are  to  be  placed  upright,  all  the 
water  pumped  out,  and  then  filled  with  solid  ma- 
sonry. They  are  eighteen  in  number,  and  are  to  be 
used  in  constructing  the  great  bridge  over  the  Mis- 
souri, estimated  to  cost  two  million  dollars. 

At  first  everything  must  be  done  with  men 
and  teams,  as  no  railroads  are  built  to  Omaha;  even 


342 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


their  locomotives  have  to  be  drawn  on  wagons  one 
hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred  miles.  Each  mile 
requires  six  hundred  tons  of  rail  and  two  thousand 
six  hundred  and  fifty  ties. 

Roads  in  this  part  of  the  country  average  but  one 
thousand  seven  hundred  to  the  mile.  These  were 
collected  and  brought  from  long  distances  to  Omaha, 
and  then  drawn  upon  wagons  on  the  line  of  the  road. 
It  is  said  there  were  as  many  as  six  thousand  teams 
employed  at  one  time  hauling  materials  on  the  road; 
but  after  the  first  twenty-five  or  thirty  miles  was 
completed  a locomotive  was  placed  upon  the  track 
to  take  forward  materials. 

Thomas  C.  Durant  had  energetic  associates,  but 
he  was  the  central  motive  power.  Having  been  a 
large  railroad  builder  and  operator,  he  engaged  large- 
ly in  the  enterprise  during  the  early,  uncertain  years 
of  the  war.  He  furnished  from  his  private  means 
the  larger  portion  of  the  first  resources.  He  bad 
built  western  roads  before,  over  the  prairies,  in  ad- 
vance of  settlements,  and  had  learned  how  they  take 
along  with  them  population  and  business.  After  he 
completed  the  first  two  or  three  hundred  miles  of  the 
road  it  became  evident  that  large  profits  would  be 
realized.  Then  the  few  men  composing  the  com- 
pany had  no  more  trouble  to  obtain  all  the  means 
needed  to  complete  the  work.  The  expenses  were 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  COMPANY.  343 

enormous,  yet  the  road  was  very  rapidly  pushed 
forward.  Everything,  workmen,  and  a wonderful 
amount  of  materials,  bad  to  go  forward  upon  one 
track.  With  the  wonderful  amount  of  means  and 
energy  used  in  forwarding  the  construction  of  this 
road,  no  obstacles  could  be  presented  which  were 
not  readily  overcome.  The  unusual  strange  camp 
life  of  the  workmen  was  more  like  a large  advancing 
army  than  railroad  makers.  A train  of  cars  con- 
taining provisions,  cooking  apparatus,  and  beds,  or 
rather  blankets,  for  fifteen  to  eighteen  thousand 
men;  also  tents  like  those  of  an  army,  all  accompany 
the  working  multitude,  each  night  having  a different 
home.  The  ground  was  graded  usually  fifty  miles 
ahead  of  the  track-layers,  when  they  would  put  down 
the  sleepers,  and  when  all  was  ready  four  rails  were 
drawn  from  the  cars,  laid  and  spiked  fast  in  a minute. 
Thus  the  gradually  advancing  mixed  multitude 
pushed  on  the  great  work,  beyond  laws  and  officers, 
and  away  from  the  restraints  of  civilized  society. 

When  a place  was  selected  for  a new  terminus  sixty 
or  eighty  miles  ahead,  the  gamblers,  the  desperadoes, 
the  State  Prison  graduates,  and  the  most  profligate 
men  and  women  congregate,  lay  out  the  tent  city, 
open  their  rum  shops,  gambling  houses  and  hell- 
houses.  Eighteen  thousand  men  receiving  four  dol- 
lars a dav  and  board,  money  was  abundant,  and  this 


344 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


traveling  “ Hell,”  as  it  was  called,  obtained  more 
than  their  share  of  the  profits  on  construction. 
Murder  and  lawlessness  became  so  common  that  the 
workmen  were  obliged,  in  self-defence,  to  organize 
vigilance  committees  and  exercise  their  own  laws. 
They  would  mark  these  desperate  fellows,  and  when 
any  one  had  done  enough  to  hang  him  he  would 
be  waited  upon  by  a committee.  They  would 
send  an  armed  band  into  his  gambling  or  drinking- 
house,  march  him  away,  give  him  a jury  trial,  allow 
him  a few  hours  to  prepare  for  death,  and  before 
morning  he  was  hanged.  As  many  as  a dozen  have 
been  thus  suspended  in  a single  camp  in  one  night. 
The  most  of  those  they  hanged  were  murderers. 
The  halter  was  the  only  punishment  the  villains 
dreaded.  When  an  inquiry  was  made  after  one 
thus  disposed  of,  they  would  answer:  “ I understand 
he  broke  his  neck  in  climbing  a tree.” 

Another  feature,  unprecedented  in  making  rail- 
roads, was,  that  the  printing  press  traveled  with  the 
working  trains,  and  daily  papers  were  issued.  This 
was  a kind  of  portable  business  village,  and  would 
have  drug  shops,  restaurants,  whisky  saloons,  and  all 
kinds  of  goods.  For  this  privilege  the  occupants 
would  pay  fifteen  hundred  or  two  thousand  dollars 
to  the  railroad  company  for  ground  sufficient  upon 
which  to  place  their  tent.  The  road  was  driven 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  COMPANY.  315 

forward,  summer  and  winter,  with  an  energy  unpre- 

% 

cedented;  gradually  rising  up  ninety-two  feet  to 
the  mile  from  Cheyenne  to  the  summit  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  when  a road  is  made  through  and  they 
pass  onward. 

No  railroad  could  have  been  successful  through 
this  woodless  country  if  coal  had  not  been  found 
suitable  for  the  locomotive.  But  fortunately,  here 
in  the  mountains,  it  has  been  found  so  near  the 
track  that  it  can  almost  be  shoveled  into  the  cars. 
It  is  soft,  and  of  a middling  quality,  which  is  good 
for  the  engine.  No  section  of  country  could  be 
more  destitute  of  wood.  On  the  whole  road  from 
Omaha  there  is  not  a tree  on  the  route.  The  first 
one  stands  marked,  “ The  Thousand  Mile  Tree  1” 

In  the  construction  of  the  railroad,  Brigham  Young 
took  a large  contract  to  do  the  grading  for  the 
track,  fifty  miles  each  way  from  his  people,  hoping 
thus  to  keep  his  “ Saints’’  the  more  secluded  and 
draw  money  into  his  settlement,  or  more  especially 
into  his  own  possession.  This  gave  him  a favorable 
opportunity  to  let  out  the  emigrant  to  work,  and 
thereby  get  back  the  money  he  had  advanced  for 
his  passage,  as  all  emigrants  bind  themselves  to  re- 
fund this  money  as  soon  as  they  can  obtain  *.t.  I 
was  informed  that  among  over  a thousand  men  who 
worked  on  the  railroad  from  the  Mormons,  there 


346  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

were  no  murders,  no  fighting,  no  drunkenness.  There 
is  but  one  place  in  Mormondom  where  intoxicating 
liquors  are  publicly  sold,  and  that  individual  pays 
over  seven  thousand  dollars  a year  for  the  privi. 

lege. 


348 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


round  Cape  Horn,  a distance  of  nineteen  thousand 
miles.  There  was  at  one  time  thirty  odd  vessels 
pushing  their  road  around  Cape  Horn,  loaded  with 
locomotives,  rails  and  other  articles  for  this  road. 

Among  the  heavy  forest  of  the  Sierra  Nevadas 
were  a quarter  of  a hundred  saw  mills,  making  for 
the  road  six  hundred  and  twenty-five  thousand  feet 
of  lumber  daily.  A thousand  men  were  engaged 
daily  to  supply  the  mills  with  logs.  Their  axes  were 
the  first  echoes  of  civilization  that  rang  through  this 
part  of  the  mountains  and  caused  the  mighty  woods 
to  lie  down  and  make  a road  for  the  nations.  The 
mountains,  nearly  inaccessible,  gave  forth  timber 
and  stone,  with  a remarkable  liberality.  The  two 
roads  laid  down  generally  seven  hundred  tons  of 
iron  daily  during  the  working  days.  One  road  laid 
over  ten  miles  of  rail  in  a single  day  and  the  other 
one  laid  eleven.  Eight  thousi  nd  Chinamen  were 
employed,  and  the  road  could  not  have  been  built 
as  soon,  nor  as  cheaply,  had  it  not  been  done  by 
these  people.  They  proved  to  be  the  most  profita- 
ble workmen  for  the  company.  Among  them  all 
there  were  no  murders,  no  use  for  vigilance  organi- 
zations, no  disturbances,  no  whisky  shops,  and  con- 
sequently no  drunkenness.  These  heathenish  chil- 
dren set  a good  example  for  those  building  the  other 
road.  The  road  goes  slowly  up  the  mountains.  If 


THE  CENTRAL  PACIFIC  COMPANY. 


349 


they  meet  one  they  can  neither  climb  over  nor  go 
through;  therefore,  around  and  up  it  the  track 
winds  till  a point  is  reached  high  enough  to  move 
across  on  the  opposite  ridge  of  another  mountain 
over  very  high  trestled  work.  In  one  place  the 
road  goes  six  miles  round  a mountain  and  makes  but 
one  ahead;  they  come  to  solid  granite  mountains 
which  must  be  blasted  away,  and  the  track  clings  to 
their  sides,  or  a tunnel  is  driven  through  them. 
There  are  fifteen  tunnels,  which  united  would 
amount  to  six  thousand  two  hundred  and  sixty-two 
feet. 

Down  the  sides  of  the  great  mountain  dashes  the 
head  waters  of  the  American  River,  a mere  brook- 
let, while  the  surrounding  mountains  rise  till  their 
tops  are  covered  with  perpetual  snows.  Nearly 
hid  under  the  eternal  snows  is  the  little  “ Summit 
Valley/’  about  a mile  in  length  by  half  the  distance 
across,  and  looks  as  if  it  had  moved  away  from  a 
more  congenial  sunshine  to  spend  a summer  amid 
broken,  desolate  rocks,  volcanic  mountains  and 
eternal  snows.  Then  comes  the  long  tunnel  through 
the  summit  range,  through  rock  as  hard  as  porphyry, 
and  could  be  blasted  only  by  glycerine,  seven  thou- 
sand feet  above  sea  level.  The  track  now  climbs 
along  the  mountain  side;  where  the  rock  is  the  very 
hardest  kind  of  granite  the  excavations  were  made 


! 


350 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


with  great  difficulty.  The  fifteen  tunnels  are  the 
best  evidence  of  the  rocks.  The  mountains  climbed 
to  the  home  of  eternal  winter,  and  a road  for  the 
steam  horse  made  through  their  tops;  so  that  when 
seen  in  August,  at  a distance,  the  tunnels  look  like 
a hole  made  through  a great  snow  bank  with  gray 
Lining. 

Here  among  the  highest  of  the  Sierras,  where  the 
avalanches  slide,  are  the  sheds,  made  strong  that 
the  snow  may  pass  over.  Where  the  snow  falls 
from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  deep,  are  sheds  supported 
by  large,  round  tree-trunks  placed  securely  beside 
the  track,  and  supporting  a double  roof  made  of 
inch  boards,  so  that  the  snow  falls  on  either  side 
away  from  the  track.  These  sheds  are  now  about 
forty  miles  in  length  and  answer  a good  purpose. 

The  mountains  passed,  we  came  to  one  of  Neva- 
da’s everlasting  white  alkali  deserts,  forty  miles 
wide,  when  the  road  reaches  the  Humboldt  flats, 
where  the  grade  is  not  difficult  to  build  the  road 
the  balance  of  the  way. 

The  Pacific  is  the  best  built  road.  The  Union  is 
the  longest  and  began  later.  When  we  consider  the 
unparalleled  shortness  of  time  in  which  the  work  was 
done,  they  are  monuments  of  remarkable  achieve- 
ment in  this  nineteenth  century. 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

CONNECTING  THE  ROADS. 


We  are  now  on  a high  plateau,  surrounded  by  for- 
bidding mountains — except  for  their  greatness.  A 
headland  rises  boldly  before  us;  it  is  “ Promontory 
Point.”  Engines  and  trains  from  the  East  and  West, 
with  a forest  of  flags,  stand  facing  each  other.  A 
small  space  as  yet — has  no  track. 

The  man  Evans,  who  had  furnished  the  Central 
Company  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  ties,  and 
who  had  furnished  the  first  tie  laid,  now  was  there 
with  the  last,  a good  specimen  of  California  laurel, 
which  was  properly  put  in  place,  and  then  removed 
and  preserved. 

At  a given  time,  the  master  spirits  of  the  two 
roads  met;  then  came  workmen  from  the  East,  and 
Chinamen  from  the  West,  bearing  the  last  ties  and 
rails.  A few  boards  set  up  is  the  Telegraph  office. 
Arrangements  have  been  made  with  all  the  Tele- 
graph offices  in  th$  country,  so  as  to  have  them  con- 
nected. 

At  the  appointed  time,  the  last  tie  is  putin  place, 
and  before  the  rails  are  laid,  the  telegraph  sends 
over  the  country,  “ Are  you  all  ready  V1  Back  comes 


352 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


the  reply,  “ All  ready.”  The  telegraph  then  says, 
“ At  the  third  tap,  it  will  be  finished.”  “ We  under- 
stand,” say  the  officers.  Prayer  is  made  to  conse- 
crate the  great  w’ork,  thanking  God  for  having  lift- 
ed up  this  great  Continent,  and  for  endowing  man 
with  such  great  ability,  to  complete  so  great  a work. 
Now  the  last  rail  is  laid  and  fastened. 

A wire  is  coiled  around  a silver  hammer,  and  the 
President  of  the  Central  Pacific  taps  the  head  of  the 
golden  spike,  which  announced  to  the  country  that 
the  work  was  done — the  roads  were  united. 

In  three  minutes  telegrams  came  back  from  the 
cities:  “The  bells  are  ringing  and  the  people  re- 
joicing.” 

This  mountain  wedding  occurred  May  10th,  1809. 
There  were  about  three  thousand  people  present  at 
the  ceremony;  but  the  whole  Nation  were  also  pres- 
ent to 

“Rivet  the  last  Pacific  rail 

With  a silver  hammer  and  a golden  nail ; 

Now  the  rising  and  the  setting  sun 
Shall  see  the  East  and  West  are  one. 

State  linked  with  State,  with  iron  bands 
Our  Union  shall  be  one  forever.” 


DISTANCES. 


353 


New  York  to  Omaha 

UNION  PACIFIC  LINE. 
Miles  | 


Omaha  to  Summit  Sidney,  iOmaha  to 

Nebraska 4j0maha  to 

Omaha  to  Pnpillion 12jOmaha  to 

Omaha  to  Elkhorn 28;Omalia  to 

Omaha  to  Valley 35jOmaka  to 

Omaha  to  Fremont 46iOmaha  to 

Omaha  to  North  Bend 61  IOmaha  to 

Omaha  to  Shell  Creek.  . . . 75jOmaha  to 

Omaha  to  Columbus OljOmalia  to 

Omaha  to  Jackson OOiOmaha  to 

Omaha  to  Silver  Creek. ...  109jOmaha  to 

Omaha  to  Clark 120:Omah*  to 

Omaha  to  Lone  Tree lSljOraaha  to 

Omaha  to  Chapman 142jOmaha  to 

Omaha  to  Grand  Island. . 153|Omaha  to 

Omaha  to  Pawnee 161;Omaha  to 

Omaha  to  Wood  River. ...  172iOmaha  to 

Omaha  to  Gibbon  182IOmaha  to 

Omaha  to  Kearney 191jOmaha  to 

Omaha  to  Stevenson 201jOmaha  to 

Omaha  to  Elm  Creek 211;Omahato 

Omaha  to  Overton 220; Omaha  to 

Omaha  to  Plum  Creek 230|Omaha  to 

Omaha  to  Coyote 240;Omaha  to 

Omaha  to  Willow  Island. . 250;Omaha  to 

Omaha  to  Warren 260|Omaha  to 

Omaha  to  Brady  Island. . . 268;Omaha  to 

Omaha  to  McPherson 277lOmaha  to 

Omaha  to  North  Platte. . . 291iOraaha  to 
Omaha  to  O’ Fallons.. ....  307;Omaha  to 

Omaha  to  Alkali 322|Omaha  to 

Omaha  to  Roscoe 332; Omaha  to 

Omaha  to  Ogallala 34ljOmaha  to 

Omaha  to  Big  Spring.  . . . 360;Ornaha  to 

Omaha  to  Julesburg 377;Omaha  to 

Omaha  to  Lodge  Pole 390jOmaha  to 

Omaha  to  Sidney 414:Omaha  to 

Omaha  to  Potter 433;Omaha  to 

Omaha  to  Antelope 451jOmaba  to 

Omaha  to  Bushnell 463; Omaha  to 

Omaha  to  Pine  Pluff 473; Omaha  to 

Omaha  to  Egbert 484lOmaha  to 

Omaha  to  Hillside 496|Omaha  to 

Omaha  to  Archer 508| Omaha  to 

Omaha  to  Cheyenne,  Wg..  516;  (Branch 


(Branch  to  Denver,  110  miles  );  miles.) 


1,479  miles. 


Miles. 


Hazard 522 

Ot'oe 528 

Granite  Canyon.  536 

Buford . ...  542 

Sherman 549 

Red  Butte 564 

Fort  Sanders. . . 571 

Laramie 572 

Wyoming 586 

Cooper’s  Lake. . 598 

Lookout 604 

Miser 615 

Rock  Creek 622 

Como 637 

Medicine  Bow . . 644 

Carbon 653 

St.  Mary’s 657 

Simpson 658 

Percy 665 

Dana 672 

Benton 694 

Rawlins 709 

Separation 721 

Creston 738 

Wash-a  kie 750 

Red  Desert 759 

Table  Rock 770 

Bitter  Creek...  783 
Black  Buttes. . . 792 
Point  ot  Rocks. . 803 

Salt  Weils 818 

Rock  Springs. . . 829 

Green  River 844 

Bryan 858 

Granger,  Utah..  874 
Church  Buttes..  885 

Carter 901 

Bridger 912 

Piedmont 925 

Aspen 937 

Evanston 952 

Wasatch 963 

Echo  Cit}r 986 

Ogden. . . 1030 


to  Salt  Lake  City,  40 


354 


BEYOND  THE  WEST, 


CENTRAL  PACIFIC  LINE. 

Miles  j Miles. 

Ogden  to  Brigham  City,  .Ogden  to  Humboldt 401 

Utah 21;Ogden  to  Humboldt  Bridge  491 

Ogden  to  Corinne,  (Bear  jOgden  to  BrowDs 513 

City) 24  Ogden  to  Humboldt  Lake.  516 

Oi-den  to  Promontory^ City.  53:Ogden  to  White  Plains. . . 525 

BOjOgden  to  Mirage 532 

104jOgden  to  Hot  Springe 540 

124! Ogden  to  Desert 550 

jOgden  to  Two  Mile  Station  557 

136;Ogden  to  Wadsworth 559 

158; Ogden  to  Clarks 574 

jOgden  to  Camp  Ho.  37.. . . 580 

184;Ogden  to  Reno 593 

202j(Branch  to  Virginia  City,  17  m.) 

jOgden  to  Verdi 603 

207jOgden  to  Camp  No.  24 619 

Ogden  to  Humboldt  Wells  222|Ogden  to  Boca,  California.  620 

Ogden  to  Denver 242jOgden  toTrukee 628 

Ogden  to  Peko 258jOgden  to  Summit 642 

Ogden  to  Osino 268jOgden  to  Cisco 656 

Ogden  to  Elko 278jOgden  to  Emigrant  Gap.. . 66-1 

Ogden  to  Moleen 290;Ogden  to  Blue  Canyon...  670 

Ogden  to  Carlin 301;Ogden  to  China  Ranch.. ..  672 

310;Ogden  to  Shady  Run 674 

321  jOgden  to  Alta 679 

329jOgden  to  Dutch  Flat 681 

Ogden  to  Shoshone 339jOgden  to  Gold  Run. 


Ogden  to  Monument  Point. 
Ogden  to  Red  Dome  Pass. 
Ogden  to  Terrace  Point. . . 
Ogden  to  North  Point  of 

Desert 

Ogden  to  Passade  Creek  . 
Ogden  tq  North  Pass,  Ne- 
vada  

Ogden  to  Pequop  Pass. . . . 
Ogden  to  Independence 
Springs. 


Ogden  to  Palisade 

Ogden  to  Cluro 

Ogden  to  Be-o-wa-we... . 


683 

350!Ogden  to  C.  H.  Mills 689 

358;Ogden  to  Colfax 693 

367jOgden  to  N.  E.  Mills 699 

Ogden  to  Stonehouse 381jOgden  to  Clipper  Gag. ...  705 

Ogden  to  Iron  Point. 394;Ogden  to  Auburn 711 

Ogden  to  Golconda 405jOgden  to  Newcastle 716 

410;Ogden  to  Reno 722 

422;Ogden  to  Rocklin 726 

Ogden  to  Rose  Creek.  ...  432jOgden  to  Junction 730 

Ogden  to  Raspberry  Creek  443jOgder  to  Antelope 733 

45<>jOgden  to  Arcade 


Ogden  to  Argenta 

Ogden  toNebur 

Ogden  to  Battle  Mountain. 


Ogden  to  Tule. 

Ogden  to  Winnemucca... . 


Ogden  to  Mill  City. 
Ogden  to  Rye  Patch. 


740 

474;Ogden  to  Sacramento 748 


Ogden  to  Sacramento 748  miles. 

Sacramento  to  San  Francisco  120  miles. 

New  York  to  San  Francisco 3,377  miles. 


CONNECTING  THE  ROADS. 


355 


Now  the  National  Mountain  Wedding  over,  the 
last  link  is  supplied,  and  the  Continent  is  bound  to- 
gether with  iron  rails,  and  the  distance  around  the 
globe  shortened,  so  that  now  the  long  journey  can 
be  made  in  three  months,  bringing  the  Nations  of 
the  world  much  nearer  to  each  other.  ‘‘You  leave 
New  York  by  steam  to  Liverpool ; by  steam  on 
land  you  spin  through  France;  by  steam  you  go 
from  France  on  the  water  to  Alexandria;  from  Alex- 
andria, on  rail,  steam  takes  you  to  Suez;  from  Suez 
to  China  or  Japan,  on  water,  by  steam;  from  China 
to  San  Francisco,  by  steam;  and  now  overland,  by 
rail,  to  New  York.” 

This  earth-born  civilizer  pushes  its  way  among  and 
through  the  most  enlightened  Nations  of  the  earth. 
England,  with  her  untiring  industry — aggressive, 
massive,  a true  representative  of  the  old  Roman  civ- 
ilization. France,  the  umpire  of  taste,  the  creator 
of  fashion,  a workshop  of  the  beautiful.  Egypt,  a 
land  that  ever  has  been  an  unsolved  problem.  Chi- 
na, with  her  never  movable  half-civilization  waiting 
her  time;  and  India  expecting  the  English  people 
to  do  more  for  her  than  she  can  do  for  herself. 

And  next  comes  our  goodly  heritage,  the  New 
World,  working  out  for  all  the  people  of  the  Old 
World  the  great  problem  of  self-government — free- 
dom for  all,  individual  responsibilities,  aspirations 
and  achievements. 


356  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

Wherever  these  lines  of  rapid  communication  trav- 
erse a country,  God  establishes  a superior  civiliza- 
tion, and  the  shuttles  seem  to  start  anew,  to  weave 

i 

the  habiliments  of  which  all  people  must  wear — the 
i religion  of  the  earth — and  here  along  this  “ highway 
of  Nations,”  are  gathered  the  wealth,  the  population, 
the  intelligence,  working  thought,  power  to  plan  and 
power  to  do  the  best  which  the  world  possesses.  By 
means  of  this  steam  power,  the  heaviness  of  olden 
times  is  beginning  to  be  arrested,  by  constant  con- 
tact with  that  which  is  more  vigorous  and  healthful. 
William  H.  Seward  said,  when  that  road  shall  have 
been  extended  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  disunion  will  be 
rendered  forever  afterwards  impossible. 

There  will  be  no  fulcrum  for  the  lever  of  Treason 
to  rest  upon.  There  seemed  to  be  special  eras  in 
the  world’s  history;  also,  in  the  advancement  of  the 
human  family.  Our  time  is  the  day  for  making  the 
earth  smaller,  by  creating  speed,  making  all  the 
nations  around  the  globe  more  neighborly;  a broth- 
erhood practically  saying:  “Prepare  ye  the  way  of 
the  Lord;  make  straight  in  the  desert  a highway, for 
our  God  and  the  glory  of  the  Lord  shall  be  revealed.” 

Everybody  desires  to  know  how  the  Continental 
Hai’r  >ad  is  built,  befitting  or  betraying  the  remark* 
able  endowments  of  Congress. 

Well,  with  a qualification,  as  well  as  new  roads 


CONNECTING  THE  ROADS.  357 

are  generally  built  in  this  country;  as  good  as  was 
consistent  with  such  haste;  the  ties  are  larger,  and 
put  closer  than  the  eastern  roads;  the  rails  are  Penn- 
sylvania iron,  and  as  good  as  the  iron  consciences  of 
those  men  permitted. 

In  portions  of  the  road,  reconstructions  are  neces- 
sary, and  should  be  made;  not  properly  ballasted; 
wooden  bridges  and  culverts  should  be  rebuilt  with 
stone;  embankments  need  widening;  many  short 
curves  should  be  straightened,  and  grades  evened  up. 
But  these  reconstructions  and  improvements  no  doubt 
will  be  made.  The  road  has  been  completed,  and 
will  prove  such  a mine  of  wealth  to  its  owners,  that 
they  should  be  held  by  the  public  and  the  govern- 
ment to  a strict  performance  of  all  their  obligations. 
No  national  improvement  was  ever  so  liberally  en- 
dowed; none  was  ever  so  rapidly  built.  The  gov- 
ernment aid  was  given,  in  ignorance  of  the  real  cost 
of  the  work.  The  cost  was  much  less  than  was  ex- 
pected. Congress  voted  sixteen  thousand  dollars 
per  mile  of  plain  country;  thirty-two  thousand  dol- 
lars per  mile  of  more  difficult  work,  and  forty-eight 
thousand  dollars  per  mile  of  the  higher  and  rougher 
mountains  passed  over.  Nearly  two-thirds  of  the 
entire  line  is  through  “ plain”  country;  yet,  from  the 
description,  only  about  one-third  was  so  counted. 
The  average  government  grant  was  thirty  thousand 


|| 


358 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


I 


dollars  per  mile,  and  the  companies  first  mortgaged 
bonds,  which  had  a ready  sale,  and  doubled  this 
amount  as  the  cash  capital  tor  the  construction  of 
the  road,  or  sixty  thousand  dollars  per  mile.  But 
the  actual  cost  has  not  probably  been  in  excess  of 
the  government  bounty  alone.  After  equipment,  it 
did  not  cost  over  forty  thousand  dollars  a mile.  This 
would  give  the  owners  a net  cash  profit,  on  construc- 
tion and  opening  the  road,  of  thirty-four  million  of 
dollars. 

But  more  than  this:  The  company  own  the  capital 
stock  of  the  road,  and  also  own  half  the  lands  on  ei- 
ther side  their  tracks  for  a width  of  twenty  miles. 

This  has  been  one  of  the  most  gigantic  specula- 
tions on  the  American  Continent;  and  it  is  hoped 
that  no  other  Railroad  Company  will  ever  receive 
such  government  aid  as  this  has.  But  the  great  work 
is  done — the  great  need — and  only  by  such  magnifi- 
cent liberality  could  the  country  have  the  Conti- 
nental Railway  so  soon — a large  addition  to  our  Na- 
tionality, to  our  Commerce,  to  our  Wealth,  that  will 
be  in  a few  years  worth  the  cost. 

As  the  Pacific  Railroad  is  now,  and  will  be  for 
some  time  to  come,  an  interesting  subject  in  our 
American  history,  is  our  justification  for  this  article 
upon  it. 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 


NEVADA — MINES  AND  MINING — AGRICULTURAL  PRO- 
DUCTS— PHYSICAL  ASPECTS. 

Passing  from  this  great  inland  basin  of  Utah  from 
Mormon  development,  we  travel  over  an  unusually 
frowning,  barren,  alkali,  ever-present  sage  brush 
country,  seemingly  useless,  except  to  hold  the  con- 
tinent together  and  teach  patience  to  travelers,  a 
distance  of  three  hundred  and  seventy-five  miles  to 
Austin,  the  center  of  mining  in  Eastern  Nevada,  as 
Virginia  City  is  in  the  Western.  These  two  are  the 
most  conspicuous  and  representative  places  of  silver 
mining  on  the  Pacific  coast  or  on  the  continent. 
Austin  is  the  metropolis,  the  business  center  for  a 
very  large  mining  section  north,  east  and  south,  for 
hundreds  of  miles,  where  the  distant  mining  camps 
obtain  supplies  and  transact  their  principal  busi- 
ness. The  town  is  built  near  the  center  of  Reese 
River  valley,  on  the  east  side,  and  like  most  mining 
towns,  is  straggling,  crowded  in  a canyon  between 
high,  ashen,  treeless,  naked  mountains,  towering  up 
hundreds  of  feet  high  on  either  side  the  principal 
thoroughfare.  Tunnels,  shafts,  ditches,  and  various 
other  excavations,  with  immense  piles  of  granite 


360 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


and  reddish  earth,  show  the  persevering  industry 
of  the  miners — like  a prairie  dog  village,  magnified 
from  mole-hills  to  mountains. 

Several  large  quartz  mills  are  located  here,  owned 
by  companies  in  the  Eastern  States;  some  very  ex- 
pensive, costing  over  two  hundred  thousand  dollars. 
But  few  of  them  have  as  yet  been' remunerative  to 
their  owners.  Some  never  started  on  the  work  for 
which  the}7  were  built.  Most  mining  companies  think 
that  when  they  can  get  a mill  their  fortunes  will  be 
made.  Here  lies  the  disappointments  and  the  heavy 
losses  to  very  many  who  make  mining  investments. 
They  discover  when  too  late  that  they  have  done 
their  first  work  where  they  should  have  done  their 
last — began  at  the  wrong  end  of  the  business.  No 
individual  or  comparfy,  if  they  know  their  interest, 
will  think  of  erecting  a quartz  mill  until  their 
mine  or  mines  in  the  vicinity  are  sufficiently  devel- 
oped to  insure  paying  mill  work.  Mining  is  an  un- 
certain business,  and  those  Avho  build  expensive 
mills  without  first  getting  out  paying  ore  enough 
to  pay  for  erecting  a mill,  are  very  likely  to  be  ul- 
timately disappointed,  and  their  imaginative  fortune 
not  realized.  Expensive  mills  can  now  be  seen 
about  the  country  rotting  down  for  want  of  paying 
ore  to  work.  Many  nnlls  have  been  built  where  the 
prospects  at  the  time  were  favorable,  but  after  the 


NEVADA. 


361 


surface  ore  was  worked  out  no  more  could  be  found, 
and  the  mills  remain  idle,  or  are  taken  down  at  a 
heavy  loss  and  removed  to  some  other  district. 

Companies  often  send  out  incompetent,  inexperi- 
enced agents,  who  spend  their  money,  either  igno- 
rantly or  otherwise,  to  little  purpose,  and  often  mis- 
lead those  who  furnish  the  monty,  and  know  little  or 
nothing  of  the  mining  business.  No  one  can  be  too 
careful  here  at  the  East  about  making  any  mining 
investment  based  on  the  representations  of  other 
interested  parties.  Those  who  do  so  are  fortunate, 
indeed,  if  they  ever  see  their  money  returned  with- 
out interest.  Quartz  mills  that  pay  usually  give 
large  returns  to  the  owners,  and  those  are  heard 
from  in  the  East,  and  are  used  as  make- ways  for  the 
many  worthless  ones  to  deceive  a confiding  public. 
There  is  some  truth  in  the  old  saying,  that  it  takes  a 
gold  mine  to  work  a silver  mine,  and  sometimes  to 
find  one. 

The  Austin  silver  mines  are  narrow,  but  generally 
rich.  The  ore  is  not  difficult  to  reduce.  Most  of 
the  leads  are  so  narrow  that  some  of  the  wall  casing 
must  be  removed  to  get  working  room.  A large 
proportion  of  the  inhabitants  work  under  ground. 
The  town  looks  quite  deserted  during  the  day;  but 
at  evening,  the  miners  seem  to  come  forth  like  exha- 
lations from  the  earth  or  like  be  ‘s  from  a hive  of  a 


362  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

warm  summer  morning.  When  a mine  is  sunken 
a few  hundred  feet,  if  it  be  a good  one,  a stationary 
engine  is  so  placed,  and  the  requisite  machinery 
made  so  that  the  workmen  are  let  down  and  drawn 
up  the  shaft  hundreds  of  feet  with  safety  and  rapid- 
ity. A shaft  is  commonly  four  by  six  feet  in  the 
clear,  so  that  a small  car  can  be  let  down,  in  which 
the  ore  is  placed  at  the  bottom  of  the  mine,  and  rais- 
ed to  the  surface,  placed  on  its  track,  and  run  off  to 
the  “dump  pile.”  Should  some  of  the  ore  be  poor, 
experienced  men  sort  it,  and  throw  out  all  that  will 
not  pay  milling  expenses. 

A straight  shaft  is  generally  put  down  on  a lead; 
and  if  rich  or  paying  quartz  is  found,  the  lead  is 
drifted  upon — that  is,  side  cuts  made  from  the  shaft 
along  on  the  lead,  when  the  ore  so  obtained  is  wheel- 
ed to  the  shaft  and  hoisted.  Where  the  distance  is 
long,  a car  track  is  put  down  in  the  mine,  which  is 
more  convenient  than  to  wheel  it. 

There  is  a fascination  and  much  information  in 
studying  the  quarrying,  and  the  various  processes 
requisite  for  the  proper  reduction  of  gold  and  silver 
ore.  The  construction  of  a great  steam  mill,  with  its 
very  heavy,  somewhat  complicated  machinery,  work- 
ing out  yellow  bars  or  shining  bricks  daily,  is  of  much 
interest.  The  quartz  is  deposited  in  front  of  the 
stamps,  on  a solid  floor,  where  it  is  broken  by  a small 


NEVADA. 


363 


stone  hammer  into  small  pieces;  then  it  is  shovelled 
into  the  feeders  or  stamp  bed,  where  the  great  iron 
stamps,  weighing  from  five  to  eight  hundred  pounds 
each,  hammer  away  day  and  night,  rising  and  falling 
sixty  times  a minute,  making  the  building  tremble 
while  they  crush  the  rock  to  powder — making  the 
surrounding  hills  resonant  with  the  heavy  music,  ev- 
ery echo  from  which  says — “ bullion  !” 

We  do  not  mean  the  hydra  headed  stamps  of  Un- 
cle Sam,  which  produce  other  and  different  notes,  but 
the  crushing  music  of  the  mill  stamps,  every  blow 
from  which  has  a silvery  ring. 

The  pulp,  if  free  from  base  metals,  is  now  put  in- 
to amalgamating  pans,  with  quicksilver  and  plenty 
of  warm  water,  in  which  the  whole  is  agitated,  the 
refuse  material  passes  off  in  the  water,  while  the 
quicksilver  collects  the  precious  metal  into  a mass 
of  shining  amalgum,  which  is  put  into  a fire-retort 
of  iron,  with  a pipe  allowing  the  fumes  of  quicksil- 
ver to  escape,  which  is  condensed  into  cold  water  to 
be  again  used.  The  metal  in  a rough  state  is  now 
taken  to  an  assayer,  where  it  is  melted  and  run  into 
bricks  or  bars,  of  the  precious  metals,  with  the  fixed 
value  stamped  upon  it.  The  process  seems  simple, 
which  takes  heavy,  worthless-looking  ore,  and  trans- 
forms it  into  glowing  gold  and  shining  silver.  Yet, 
this  philosopher’s  stone  has  been  discovered  only  by 


364 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


unusual  toil,  great  skill  and  almost  endless  experi- 
menting. 

Silver  ore  is  quarried,  broken  and  crushed,  very 
nearly  as  gold  quartz.  When  ores  of  either  kind  are 
found  in  combination  with  baser  metals,  after  being 
finely  crushed,  it  must  be  roasted  in  large  ovens,  un- 
til the  corroding  substances  are  burnt  away,  before 
quicksilver  will  take  up  the  desirable  part. 

Silver  mining,  like  all  that  is  money,  is  very  un- 
certain. A miner  may  have  a claim  today,  giving 
promise  of  a fortune,  and  he  could  sell  it  for  a hun- 
dred thousand  dollars,  but  to-morrow  the  quartz  may 
stop,  or  the  lode  may  be  cut  off.  He  may,  perhaps, 
find  it  again,  after  excavating  the  mine  a hundred 
or  three  hundred  feet,  and  he  may  never  find  it.  In 
hunting  for  it,  he  may  expend  all  his  means,  and 
more,  without  finding  it,  and  he  finds  himself  a poor 
man,  but  not  discouraged.  He  packs  himself,  and 
off  he  rushes  to  find  another  claim.  He  may  find 
and  prospect  a hundred,  and  not  find  silver  in  pa}T- 
ing  quantities.  If  my  observation  and  experience 
be  correct,  not  one  lead  in  a hundred  contains  ore  in 
quantities  to  even  pay  for  working.  An  experienc- 
ed man  can  take  from  almost  any  lead  a few  speci- 
mens which  will  assay  rich,  while  it  would  be  worth- 
less for  working.  These  are  the  kind  of  very  riel 
mines,  the  product  of  which  have  been  so  often  sen' 


NEVADA. 


36a 

to  New  York  and  the  East,  as  very  many  men  have 
learned  by  dearly  bought  experience,  first  and  last. 
The  mining  business  is  like  a lottery,  where  there  is 
thousands  of  blanks  to  one  prize. 

The  first  discovery  of  silver  at  Austin  was  made 
by  a pony  express  rider  in  July,  1862.  The  informa- 
tion soon  spread,  excitement  ran  high,  and  the 
usual  rush  of  miners,  speculators,  traders,  mechanics, 
and  all  manner  of  gamblers  followed.  The  town 
was  rapidly  built  up,  went  through  the  trying  or- 
deal of  infant  mining  camps,  and  finally  settled  down 
into  a substantial  mining  and  commercial  city. 
There  are  no  villages  in  this  country;  every  place 
is  either  a city  or  a camp;  consequently  many  places 
spoken  of  here  as  cities,  we  would  call  small  villages 
or  settlements. 

All  the  heavy  machinery  had  to  come  from  Cali- 
fornia; also  supplies  were  hauled  by  teams  three 
hundred  miles  and  upwards  up  the  Sierras  and  over 
the  desert,  at  a cost  of  from  eight  to  ten  cents  per 
pound. 

The  railroad  is  eighty  miles  north  of  the  city. 
A good  wagon  road  through  Reese  River  valley 
connects  it  with  the  railroad  on  the  Humboldt  Flats. 
This  valley  is  the  largest  and  most  productive  val- 
ley in  Eastern  Nevada;  it  is  nearly  a hundred  miles 
long  by  from  five  to  ten  miles  wide,  lying  between 


I 


8G6  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

two  parallel  mountain  ranges  running  north  and 
south,  and  having  on  either  side  many  mining  dis- 
tricts. 

Reese  River  is  something  of  a stream,  starting 
from  the  snowy  ranges  sixty-five  miles  south  ot 
Austin,  and  runs  through  the  entire  valley  north, 
losing  its  identity  in  the  sink  of  the  Humboldt. 
The  river  sinks  some  ten  miles  south  of  the  city 
and  travels  in  subterranean  passages  about  twenty 
miles,  then  comes  to  the  surface  again  and  goes  on 
in  the  usual  way. 

Ranching  is  quite  profitable  in  the  valley;  bar- 
ley is  usually  a heavy  crop  and  commands  a good 
price  for  feed.  Some  other  kinds  of  grain  are  grown, 
and  all  the  varieties  of  the  hardier  vegetables  are 
grown  successfully.  But  a very  small  amount  of 
the  land  in  the  valley  can  be  cultivated  for  the  want 
of  sufficient  water  to  irrigate.  Here,  as  elsewhere 
in  this  country,  the  amount  of  land  cultivated  de- 
pends wholly  on  the  amount  of  water  which  can  be 
obtained. 

No  fruit  has  been  grown  here  of  any  kind.  The 
apple  trees  we  saw7  growing  (only  in  one  place)  in 
the  valley  looked  unpromising.  Evidently  they 
were  not  at  home  here.  The  nights  are  too  cold  in 
early  spring,  which  destroys  the  fruit  buds.  The 
valley  is  five  thousand  feet  above  the  sea,  and  the 


NEVADA. 


367 


town  six  thousand  feet;  the  air  is  light;  physical 
exercise  causes  shortness  of  breath.  Those  wearing 
artificial  teeth  are  troubled  to  keep  them  in  the 
mouth,  so  light  is  the  atmospheric  pressure. 

Austin  has  a population  of  a little  more  than  four 
thousand  people,  and  no  hotels,  in  the  American 
sense,  but  lodging  houses,  with  restaurants  often 
quite  distant — often  in  another  part  of  the  town. 
All  business  transactions  here,  since  the  suspension 
of  specie,  has  been  done  on  a gold  basis;  if  green- 
backs are  used  it  is  at  coin  rates. 

Here  we  first  meet  Pacific  Coast  life  and  enter- 
prise. A number  of  new  kinds  of  people  are  here — 
the  Mexican,  with  his  pack  mules;  the  Celestials,  do- 
ing  nearly  all  the  domestic  labor  of  the  town;  also 
several  other  nationalities,  largely  represented,  mak- 
ing the  population  much  more  mixed — some  dress- 
ed in  their  national  costume. 

Continuing  westward  by  coach  from  Austin,  we 
cross  Reese  River  valley,  and  enter  upon  one  of  Ne- 
vada’s poorest  ashen  deserts.  The  disagreeableness 
of  the  alkine  dust,  as  of  old,  envelops  horses,  vehicle 
and  occupants,  a distance  of  three  hundred  and  twen- 
ty miles;  but  these  are  now  among  the  rubbish  of 
the  past,  only  to  be  occasionally  remembered. 

Most  mining  towns  are  thrown  loosely  along  some 
tortuous ‘ravine;  but  Virginia  City,  for  a time  the 


368 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


only  metropolis  of  Nevada,  looks  as  if  it  had  grown 
half  way  up  the  side  of  the  mountain,  near  the  limit 
of  vegetation. 

I suppose  a more  forbidding,  dreary,  desolate  spot 
exists  not  on  the  face  of  the  globe,  than  the  site  of 
Virginia  City,  as  it  was  in  1859.  Not  a living  thing 
green  on  the  barren  desert  waste,  if  you  except  a 
few,  very  few  stunted  cedar  bushes,  and  Horace  Gree- 
ley’s everlasting  sage  brush,  interspersed  by  now' 
and  then — say,  perhaps,  ten  to  the  acre — solitary 
blades  of  grass;  in  short,  not  one  attractive,  but  ma- 
ny repulsive  features.  Yet,  on  this  naturally  miser 
ble  spot,  whose  only  redeeming,  yet  all  powerful  fea- 
ture was  the  mineral  hidden  beneath  its  surface,  has 
in  a little  over  four  years,  risen  a magnificent  city, 
rivalling  many  even  very  prosperous  ones  on  the  At- 
lantic slope,  of  ten  or  even  twenty  years  growth. 

The  locality  is  forbidding,  treeless  and  verdure- 
less: and  sometimes  it  would  seem  that  all  the  storm 
winds  of  Heaven  were  let  loose  together,  by  the  ra- 
pidity with  which  they  sweep  through  the  city — 
sometimes  reminding  those  pedestrians  who  stand 
on  slippery  places,  that  we  are  fearfully  and  wonder- 
fully made.  Two  prospecters  in  pursuit  of  gold,  dis- 
covered here  in  1859  a vein  of  dark-colored  ore, 
which,  being  assayed,  proved  to  be  silver. 

aii  unusual  rush  tor  the  somewhat  remarkable  re- 


’ 


NEVADA.  3f'9 

gion  began;  the  mine  being  rich,  a city  sprung  up 
like  Jonah’s  gourd — not  upon  a hill,  but  on  the  side 
of  one  which  cannot  be  hid. 

The  city  is  built  over  its  wealth;  consists  in  one 
very  unusual  deposit  of  ore,  the  celebrated  Comstock 
Ledge,  which  has  proven  to  be  one  of  the  most  re- 
markable deposits  of  the  kind  on  the  Continent — un- 
known any  where  else  in  the  world — more  a wonder- 
ful blow-up  or  deposit,  than  a lead. 

We  go  down  its  shafts  many  hundred  feet;  mean- 
der through  the  many  drifts  on  the  different  levels 
of  the  main  shaft;  saw  the  toiling  miner  ft  work. 

There  are  hundreds  of  men  down  here,  but  the 
place  is  so  vast  you  hardly  see  half  a dozen  togeth- 
er. You  hear  a little  rumble,  and  suddenly  meet  a 
loaded  car,  a miner  shoving  it,  his  candle  stuck  in 
his  hat  or  in  an  upright  of  his  car;  or  you  come 
hastily  upon  two  or  three  men  running  from  a blast 
which  they  have  just  fired;  or  you  hear  the  picks 
of  a gang  down  the  passage,  but  you  cannot  see  a 
man  in  the  gross  darkness.  When  one  has  stumbled 
along  many  hundred  feet  in  various  directions,  and 
when  the  little  basins  have  thoroughly  wet  one’s  feet, 
and  the  percolating  streams  have  soaked  head  and 
shoulders,  we  are  quite  willing  to  go  back  to  day- 
light and  civilization. 

We  examined  the  extensive  subterranean  timber 


370 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


ing  of  the  mine  to  prevent  its  caving,  and  the  ma- 
chinery requisite  to  do  the  immense  work.  It  is 
estimated  that  there  is  more  lumber  under  the  town 
than  in  the  whole  City  of  Virginia  above  ground. 
The  deposit  is  from  thirty  to  eighty  feet  wide,  much 
of  it  loose,  requiring  only  shoveling  up.  Some  of 
the  richest  of  the  ore  has  been  sent  to  Swansea,  in 
Wales,  for  crushing.  These  mills  guarantee  to  ex- 
tract all  the  silver,  to  the  full  amount  of  scientific 
assay;  whereas  no  mills  in  the  State  will  agree  to 
return  more  than  eighty  per  cent,  of  the  assay.  The 
quartz  here  is  more  easily  reduced  than  any  other 
in  Nevada — it  being  free  from  corroding  substances, 
such  as  the  sulphates,  pyrites  of  iron,  arsenic,  <fcc.; 
does  not  require  roasting,  like  the  ore  at  Austin  and 
most  other  mining  districts,  which  make  about  half 
difference  in  the  milling  expenses.  The  Gold  Cur- 
ry Company  took  from  their  claim — within  a space 
of  five  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  length  by  less  than 
five  hundred  in  depth — Fifteen  Million  Dollars.  The 
stamps  put  in  opertion  here  have  given  larger  re- 
turns than  in  any  other  mining  region  on  this  Conti- 
nent. The  Comstock  has  a constitution  of  its  own, 
different  from  most  silver  mines,  but  has  an  increas- 
ing and  varying  richness,  like  other  mines. 

A body  of  ore  small  at  the  surface  may,  at  a great- 
er or  less  depth,  expand  to  a great  size — and  vice 


NEVADA.  371 

versa . The  geological  formation  of  this  hill  and  lead 
is  as  singular  as  its  rich  ore  is  rare.  Such  a forma- 
tion is  very  advantageous  for  mining,  as  the  ore  is 
in  vast  quantity,  pure  and  rich,  and  easily  mined. 
The  exhaustion  of  the  mine  is  almost  a matter  of  im- 
possibility, and  none  now  living  will  see  it  accom- 
plished. Here  began  the  first  silver  mining  in  the 
United  States. 

This  is  the  continental  belt  of  the  metalliferous 
deposits,  is  of  vast  extent  and  richness,  is  about  three 
hundred  miles  wide,  and  establishes  its  geological 
connection  with  the  historic  mines  of  Mexico  and 
Peru,  and  extends  as  far  north  as  the  persevering 
miner  has  yet  prospected.  Precisely  on  this  line  in 
the  Mexican  States,  are  the  great  silver  mines,  which 
have  been  worked  for  three  and  a half  centuries  by 
the  Spaniards— furnishing’the  world  with  large  quan- 
tities of  silver  coin  and  bullion. 

This  is  but  a portion  of  that  vast  region  of  the 
precious  metals,  extending  along  the  volcanic  forma- 
tion, from  the  Ande's  in  South  America,  to  the  Cas- 
cade Mountains  in  Oregon.  The  principal  mineral 
wealth  of  the  world  has  been  found  in  the  mountain 
ranges  which  look  out  over  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

Nevada  is  justly  called  the  “ Silver  State/7  although 
her  mining  is  yet  in  its  infancy.  The  yield  is  enor- 
mous. In  the  short  space  of  ten  }7ears,  she  has  climb- 


, .» 
tj  t _ 


UK  VON D THE  WEST. 


ed  from  frowning  deserts  and  forbidding  mountains 
by  silver  steps,  to  a prominent  position  in  the  eyes  of 
the  world  and  in  the  hearts  of  the  American  people. 
These  mines  will  not  always  go  begging;  but  until 
they  are  Wide  productive,  they  must  be  suppliant 
at  the  throne  of  capital. 

It  should  be  remembered  that  silver  mines,  unlike 
th  of  gold,  require  long-continued  labor  and  much 
capital  properly  expended,  before  they  yield  up  their 
shining  treasure.  Silver  is  never  found  detached 
like  gold.  The  metal  being  wholly  confined  in  fos- 
siliferous  quartz  rock,  has  to  be  ground  and  elabo- 
rately worked  in  costly  mills  before  it  can  be  made 
available.  Geologists  agree  that  quartz  leads  had 
their  origin  far  down  in  the  bowels  of  the  earth,  and 
were  forcibly  ejected  from  beneath  through  open- 
ings formed  by  some  violent  convulsion  of  nature  in 
the  old  granite  rocks.  These  crevices  are  detected, 
and  traced  from  surface  indications.  The  treatment 
of  galena  silver  quartz,  which  is  found  largely  n 
Mexico  and  Arizona,  and  some  places  in  Nevada,  is 
very  different  from  the  other  kinds;  the  ore  requires 
smelting  instead  of  stamping. 

The  largest  establishment  for  working  this  kind 
of  ore,  I visited  at  Oreanna,  on  the  Humboldt  Flats. 
The  ore  here  contained  such  a large  percentage  of 
lead,  that  it  wou'd  form  a solid  mass  when  sr  mined 


NEVADA  37:3 

The  smelting  furnaces  are  built  very  much  like'those 
used  in  our  iron  froundries.  Charcoal  is  used  for 
fuel.  Alter  a fire  is  started,  alternate  quantities  of 
ore  and  coal  are  put  into  the  furnace;  and  when 
melted,  is  drawn  out  like  molten  iron — the  silver 
and  lead  together,  which  is  molded  somewhat  like 
pig-iron. 

The  only  real  difficulty  in  this  kind  of  mining  is, 
separating  the  small  amount  of  silver  from  such  im- 
mense quantities  of  lead,  as  there  was  only  about 
two  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  in  silver  to  the  ton  of 
lead.  It  was  not  separated  here,  but  sent  at  consid- 
erable cost  to  San  Francisco  for  separation.  The 
lead  is  very  pure,  equal  to  the  best,  as  the  works  are 
on  the  line  of  the  railroad,  affording  better  facilities 
and  cheaper  freight.  The  company  will,  probably, 
realize  largely  from  the  investment.  This  kind  oi 
mining  is  much  cheaper  than  crushing,  and  general- 
ly give  larger  return  for  the  money  invested. 

The  Silver  Mines  of  Nevada  constitute  the  great 
and  important  source  of  the  wealth  of  the  State. 

But  ten  years  have  elapsed  (scarcely  a beginning  in 
this  kind  of  mining)  since  the  discovery  of  these 
mines,  and  the  yield  is  greater  at  this  time  than  of 
any  other  country — Mexico  not  excepted. 

Many  desire  to  know  the  method  of  securing  a 
minp.  A person  supposing  he  has  discovered  a lead, 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


3'<4 

I 

sinks  what  is  termed  a prospect  hole  upon  it;  writes 
a notice  setting  forth  the  fact,  that  the  individuals 
whose  names  are  signed  to  the  notice,  claims  a cer- 
tain number  of  feet  on  the  ledge  (giving  it  some 
name)  in  either  direction  from  the  prospect,  and 
within  ten  days  thereafter  gets  the  notice  recorded, 
by  the  Recorder  of  Claims  of  the  Mining  District, 
together  with  a description  of  the  lead,  and  where 
and  how  located. 

This  is  the  primary  source  of  title  to  all  mines,  and 
answers  the  same  purpose  as  our  deeds  of  real  es- 
tate— can  be  transferred  only  by  recorded  deeds, 
properly  acknowledged  before  a competent  officer. 

The  mining  laws  of  all  districts  give  the  locator  of 
a lead  fifty  feet  of  land  on  either  side  of  his  claim,  for 
the  purpose  of  erecting  machinery  if  he  wishes,  and 
to  do  general  work  upon  it.  Most  districts  require 
the  owner  of  a lead  to  do  a specified  amount  of  labor 
on  his  claim  per  month,  or  forfeit  it;  where  others 
can,  as  it  is  termed,  “jump  it.” 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

JOURNEY  TO  THE  HOT  SPRINGS. 

We  left  the  Overland  Stage  road  at  Cold  Spring 
station  and  started  for  a journey  to  the  Sink  of  the 
Humboldt,  distant  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  to 
the  northward.  Our  road  conducted  us  over  a very 
dry,  forbidding  region,  of  which  Nevada  has  so 
much;  a sand  and  rocky  desert  all  the  way.  Nothing 
could  be  seen  of  vegetable  growth  but  the  ubiqui- 
tous sage,  and  that  only  at  long  distances.  The 
first  half  day  we  traveled  twenty-four  miles,  to  Indian 
Spring,  where  we  found  a small  quantity  of  water, 
as  if  trying  to  hide  itself  away  in  a little  pool  at 
the  foot  of  a mountain.  No  more  than  enough 
could  be  had  at  a time  than  to  supply  a team  and  a 
couple  of  men.  Here  was  our  dining  hotel,  the 
traveler’s  very  hospitable  home.  We  were  the  only 
proprietors  for  the  time.  A little  dry  fuel  was  soon 
collected,  coffee  boiled,  bacon  in  the  frying-pan, 
and  bread  on  hand.  The  table-cloth  (a  newspaper) 
was  laid  for  two,  and  we  6at  down  upon  the  table 
which  nature  furnished,  to  rather  a young  feast,  when 
we  consider  the  poverty  stricken  country.  Some- 
what rested,  and  our  horses  recruited  with  a few 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


37(3 

blades  of  alkali  grass  about  the  spring,  but  with 
more  barley,  with  which  we  had  supplied  ourselves 
at  twelve  cents  per  pound,  coin,  we  resumed  our 
journey  and  traveled  twenty  miles  to  the  Hot  Springs, 
and  camped  for  the  night.  The  traveler’s  heart  re 
joices  when  he  comes  to  one  of  these  life-giving 
places,  nearly  famished  with  heat  and  thirst. 

No  one  can  appreciate  the  suffering  to  people  and 
animals  which  often  occurs  while  traveling  over  por- 
tions of  this  country  in  summer. 

We  stop  on  the  way  to  examine  a salt  marsh,  of 
which  the  State  has  several.  This  is  the  largest  and 
the  purest  salt.  Here,  in  a basin,  between  the 
mountain  ranges,  is  about  ten  acres,  covered  with 
coarse  salt — quite  a good  article — nature’s  salt 
works.  Planks  are  laid  down,  and  men,  with  wheel- 
barrows, shovel  it  up  where  found  the  thickest  and 
the  best,  and  wheel  it  out  where  wagons  can  take  on 
a load.  It  is  putin  coarse  sacks  of  a hundred  pounds 
or  more  each,  and  sent  off  for  family  use  and  for 
quartz  mills,  as  bat  little  ore  can  be  successfully 
treated  without  it.  Very  much  of  the  quartz  min- 
ing would  be  a failure  were  it  not  that  this  indispens- 
able article  is  found  largely  in  this  mining  part 
of  the  continent.  Freighters  were  here  loading  for 
the  distant  mines  of  Idaho  and  Montana.  Large 
quantities  are  carted  over  the  country  from  here  in 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  HOT  SPRINGS. 


377 


all  directions.  Where  salt  is  removed  from  the 
bed  brine  again  fills  the  place,  and  in  a few  days, 
during  the  summer,  evaporation  is  so  great  that  salt 
is  soon  formed  as  before,  ready  to  be  removed 
again. 

For  the  purpose  of  saying  all  that  we  design  to 
on  this  subject  here,  we  will  digress,  and  introduce 
you  to  a mountain  of  salt  about  two  hundred  and 
thirty  miles  from  here,  in  the  southern  part  of  Ne- 
vada. It  is  between  four  and  five  miles  in  length 
and  nearly  six  hundred  feet  in  hight,  with  an  un- 
known depth.  It  is  pure  and  crystaline,  and  does 
not  deliquesce  on  being  exposed  to  the  atmosphere, 
but  is  more  like  rock,  requiring  blasting  to  remove 
it  from  the  very  solid  mass,  whence  it  is  taken  in 
large  blocks,  and  is  as  transparent  as  so  much  glass. 
The  world  could  be  supplied  from  here  if  it  could  be 
transported;  but  it  is  a long  way  inland — located  in 
a wilderness — an  object  for  the  admiration  of  the 
traveler  and  the  inspection  of  the  scientific.  There 
is  but  one  other  known  place  on  the  globe  where 
salt  is  found  in  such  a state  of  purity  in  quantity, 
and  that  is  in  Poland.  Should  any  of  my  readers 
desire  to  see  a specimen  of  it,  they  can  do  so  by 
calling  on  me. 

But  to  return  to  the  Hot  Springs.  There  is  about 
a dozen  of  these  caldrons  filled  with  water,  but  not 


378 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


I 


run  ' ng  over.  In  one  we  found  water  cool  enough 
to  drink;  another  tepid,  in  which  we  had  a delicious 
renovating  bath;  another  moderately  hot,  but  not 
scalding  to  hold  the  hand  into  it.  Others  were  so 
hot  that  we  tied  some  meat  to  a string  and  boiled  it 
in  a very  short  time.  There  being  no  son  of  Vul- 
can present,  and  one  of  our  wagon  tires  was  in  a 
favorable  way  to  come  off,  we  attached  a rope  to  it, 
and  also  gave  the  wheel  a good  boiling,  which  an- 
swered us  as  well  as  a blacksmith  for  the  journey. 
Washerwomen  would  have  no  trouble  to  supply 
themselves  with  ready  water  here  to  do  a very  big 
washing,  and  men  would  not  be  driven  so  far  away 
from  home  as  they  sometimes  are  on  that  ever  to  be 
remembered  day. 

These  springs  vary  in  width  from  five  to  thirty 
feet  in  diameter.  Some  are  shallow;  others  no 
doubt  are  very  deep,  being  supplied  far  down  in  the 
earth. 

We  spread  our  blankets  amongst  the  boiling  pools 
and  had  a delightful  sleep.  The  steam  and  gas  . 
arising,  together  with  the  warm  earth,  warmed  the 
air  and  invited  repose.  It  was  unusually  interesting 
at  early  morning  to  observe  the  ascending  columns 
of  steam  which  at  that  time  arose  in  clouds  to  a 
great  hight  as  the  day  seemed  to  kindle  behind  the 
eastern  mountains,  and  as  the  sun  ascended  over 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  HOT  SPRINGS.  379 

them  they  appeared  to  rise  from  beds  of  flame  and 
to  put  sheets  of  fire  upon  their  majestic  aerial 
heads. 

We  continue  on  over  the  country  where  universal 
desolation  was  stamped  upon  all  around.  It  would 
almost  seem  in  some,  places  that  nature  herself  had 
quite  expired,  so  remarkable  was  the  sterility  and 
dreariness.  A hot,  yellow  haze  hung  upon  distant 
objects,  while  a sort  of  dazzling,  glittering  heat 
seemed  to  surround  everything  near  at  hand.  Some 
of  the  road  was  too  dreary  to  be  spoken  of — yellow 
sand,  with  a few  rocks  rising  above  the  plain,  with 
an  occasional  cluster  of  artemisia. 

The  bitter  imprecations  of  many  a maddened  and 
almost  frenzied  emigrant  were  poured  out  with 
startling  energy  and  emphasis  upon  this  treacherous 
portion  of  the  country,  as  many  thousands  of  the 
bones  of  their  poor  animals  were  scattered  all  across 
this  forty  miles  of  burning  sun,  waterless,  alkali, 
Humboldt  Flat.  I found  no  place  on  the  Overland 
Route  where  the  emigrant  had  left  so  much  along 
the  way  to  remind  one  of  these  plains  of  death  to 
their  animals,  and  a consequent  loss  of  other  proper- 
ty, when  “ Hopes  and  fears  in  more  than  equal  bal- 
ance laid,*  while  they  toiled  on  amid  great  suffering. 

We  traveled  some  distance  along  this  old  emigrant 
road  and  then  turned  south  to  Humboldt  River,  then 


380 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


_ 


followed  it  down  to  near  the  Sink  and  crossed  over 
to  the  Carson  River,  (named  after  the  celebrated 
Carson,  guide  and  mountain  man,)  passed  round  to 
the  south  side  of  the  Sink  and  returned  to  the  stage 
road  again.  . 

These  two  great  rivers,  flowing  eastward  from  the 
Sierras,  form  a large  lake  on  the  desert  called  the 
Sink,  as  they  are  both  lost  in  this,  their  reservoir. 
The  railroad  runs  on  the  south  side  of  it,  and  the 
country  has  been  considerably  taken  up,  and  is  be- 
ginning  to  be  settled  by  an  agricultural  people,  as 
the  lake  furnishes  irrigating  facilities,  and  the  coun- 
try for  some  distance  is  favorably  located  for  the 
business. 

It  was  supposed  by  the  first  settlers  of  Nevada 
that  the  country  must  be  infinitely  rich  in  minerals, 
because  worthless  for  anything  else;  but  experience 
has  proven  that  the  many  before  desert  valleys  have 
large  agricultural  capacity  by  the  introduction  of 
water,  and  the  State  will  become  self-supporting, 
but  her  leading  interest  will  be  silver  mining. 

Carson  City,  the  capital  of  the  State,  is  pleasantly 
located  in  Carson  Valley,  sixteen  miles  from  Vir- 
ginia, under  the  shadow  of  the  Sierras. 

Carson  Valley  is  the  largest  and  most  productive 
farming  region  of  the  State,  and  is  now  capable  of 
supporting  a large  population  and  supplying  other 
sections  to  some  extent. 


fl 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  HOT  SPRINGS.  381 

Nevada  is  prolific  in  hot  springs.  One  near  Vir- 
ginia, a mile  loDg,  following  the  course  of  alitth  brook, 
has  sulphur  water  boiling  under  ground,  breaking 
through  in  some  places  and  throwing  up  jets  of  wa- 
er  and  steam.  Atone  place  a fountain  rises  from 
the  ground  several  feet  high,  making  a sound  like 
a high-pressure  steamer;  consequently  all  the  waters 
are  named  the  “ Steamboat  Springs.  ’ The  water  is 
similar  to  the  Sulphur  Springs  at  Salt  Lake,  possesses 
curative  virtue,  and  is  quite  efficacious  in  rheuma- 
tism. 

The  Indians  reverence  these  springs.  They  be- 
lieve that  the  Great  Spirit  troubles  the  waters  by 
breathing  in  them,  and  they  make  propitiatory  of- 
ferings to  this  supposed  invisible  deity. 


: 


CHAPTER  XXXVII.  • 

SIERRA  NEVADA  MOUNTAINS — LAKE  TAHOE— DONNER 

LAKE — SUFFERING  OF  EMIGRANTS — SACRAMENTO. 

After  having  been  so  long  on  the  interior  desert 
plains  and  forbidding  mountains,  from  majestic  for- 
ests and  nature’s  growing  beauties,  we  confronted 
with  renewed  pleasure  in  the  ride  up  the  mountains 
a succession  of  delights  and  pleasures,  thirteen  miles 
from  Carson  to  Lake  Tahoe.  The  surging  of  the  Pa- 
cific breeze  through  the  massive  trees  of  magnificent 
size  and  beautiful  form,  the  “ ^Eolean  Harp”  of  the 
mighty  forest,  came  like  sweet  music  laden  with  re- 
collections of  home  and  friends. 

The  air  was  sweet  with  fresh  perfumes,  the  e}Te 
beheld  green  valleys,  and  feasted  on  new  mountains 
of  rock  and  lower  hills  covered  with  dense  ever- 
greens, when  we  arrived  at  the  Glenbrook  House, 
beside  the  most  beautiful  sheet  of  water  (as  some 
have  said)  in  the  United  States. 

Tahoe  is  said  to  be  the  highest  lake  on  the  globe, 
navigated  by  a steamboat,  (a  little  pleasure  steamer 
for  the  use  of  guests  of  the  house)  as  it  is  already 
becoming  a pleasure  resort  of  Californians  in  sum- 
mer. The  cool,  healthful  air,  magnificent  scenery, 


lake 


SIERRA  NEVADA  MOUNTAINS.  383 

together  with  an  unlimited  supply  of  delicious  lake 
trout,  make  the  place  one  of  pleasure  and  health. 
The  lake  is  twenty -four  miles  long,  and  is  from  twelve 
to  fifteen  wide,  and  six  thousand  two  hundred  and 
eighteen  feet  above  the  sea;  walled  in  by  mountain 
ranges  thousands  of  feet  high,  with  peaks  standing 
as  sentinels,  reflecting  their  majestic  greatness  in 
the  transparent  water.  It  seems  as  crystaline  as  if 
the  water  were  air.  Substances  of  a small  size  can 
be  seen  with  distinctness  on  the  bottom  at  a depth 
of  a hundred  feet.  In  places  it  has  been  found  to 
be  sixteen  hundred  feet  deep.  The  irregular  line 
dividing  the  green  of  the  shallow  waters  from  tiie 
blue  of  the  depths  is  clearly  marked.  The  shores 
are  mostly  covered  by  shiniug  black  sand. 

The  line  crosses  the  lake,  dividing  the  Golden  and 
the  Silver  State,  and  is  a place  of  unsurpassed  mag- 
nificence and  beauty,  only  fifteen  miles  from  the 
railroad,  which  makes  it  quite  accessible  for  those 
wishing  to  visit  it.  No  one  who  can  will  regret 
seeing  this  brightest  jewel  in  the  mountain  coronet. 

There  are  several  small  lakes  in  the  mountains 
about  here  which  are  not  less  than  seven  thousand 
feet  above  the  ocean.  Lake  Como  is  one  literally 
amongst  the  tops  of  the  mountains,  fourteen  miles 
long  and  nine  miles  wide,  and  walled  in  by  volcanic 
debris. 


384 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


As  the  traveler  now  on  the  Sierra  Nevada  looks 
from  the  swiftly  moving,  pleasure-giving  cars,  he 
will  see  a beautiful  little  lake  on  the  north  side  of 
the  track,  about  sixteen  hundred  feet  below  him, 
serene,  blue  and  beautiful,  five  miles  long  by  one 
wide.  It  is  “Donner  Lake.”  Here,  nearly  twenty- 
one  years  ago,  an  emigrant  train  of  fifty  men  and 
thirty  women  and  children,  encamped  on  the  shore 
of  this  lake  late  in  the  fall,  under  the  leadership 
of  a man  by  the  name  of  Donner.  A very  heavy 
fall  of  snow,  said  to  have  been  twenty  feet  in  depth, 
shut  them  in  the  canyon  and  prevented  their  ad- 
vance or  retreat.  As  their  cattle  died  they  ate  them 
to  the  very  last  piece  of  their  hide.  Then  starva- 
tion came  upon  them  with  maddening  power;  the}7 
could  scarcely  wait  for  one  of  their  unfortunate 
number  to  die  before  the  body  was  consumed. 

From  cabin  to  cabin  exchanges  of  parts  of  the 
human  body  were  made,  and  a return  to  be  given 
when  the  next  one  died.  I was  informed  that  one 
of  the  women  is  now  living  who  ate  her  own  hus- 
band. 

For  the  benefit  of  the  believer  and  the  unbeliever 
in  dreams,  we  give  the  following: 

During  this  time,  as  we  are  told,  there  lived  near 
San  Francisco  an  old  hunter.  He  dreamed  that 
there  was  such  an  emigrant  party  starving  and  dy* 


SIERRA  NEVADA  MOUNTAINS. 


385 


i'.g  in  the  mountains.  So  firmly  was  he  impressed 
with  the  dream,  that  next  day  he  went  twenty  odd 
miles  to  see  another  old  hunter.  In  describing  his 
dream,  he  pictured  the  place  so  plainly  that  the 
hunter  recognized  it  as  being  the  place  afterwards 
known  as  Donner’s  Lake.  They  organized  a small 
party  and  started  immediately,  through  the  deep 
snows,  and  found  the  party — exactly  according  to 
the  dream — and  thirty  out  of  the  eighty  were  res- 
cued, though  some  of  them  wer.e  badly  frozen  and 
crippled  for  life. 

During  this  terrible  time  they  became  so  besotted, 
that  when  found,  with  parts  of  their  undevoured 
friends  around  them,  like  wild  animals  that  have 
once  tasted  human  flesh,  they  had  to  be  literally 
forced  away  from  this  kind  of  living,  and  most  re- 
luctantly took  the  food  which  their  deliverers 
brought.  It  is  said  that  one  of  them  was  found 
cooking  human  flesh,  besmeared  with  its  blood  after 
he  had  been  supplied.  It  was  supposed  he  had  com- 
mitted murder  in  order  to  have  one  more  feast. 

As  we  looked  down  from  the  beautiful  cars,  with 
every  want  supplied  and  every  wish  anticipated,  upon 
that  historic  and  picturesque  spot  in  the  summer, 
where  these  poor  emigrants  suffered  all  that  human- 
ity could  suffer,  and  died  in  such  a heart-sickening 
way,  we  could  not  release  ourself  from  the  sad  im- 


386 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


pression  which  this  ra<»st  terrible  item  in  the  history 
of  those  times  made  upon  the  mind. 

Crossing  the  summit,  we  were  among  bare,  gran- 
ite peaks  of  white,  gray  and  b^own.  The  majestic 
Sierras  rear  their  snow-capped  summits,  where  king 
winter  holds  his  eternal  court.  Their  long  sides, 
furrowed  with  dark,  deep  canyons,  through  which 
bright-glowing  rivulets  leap  down  the  abrupt  moun- 
tain-sides, carrying  to  life  and  nature  in  the  plain  be- 
low the  tribute  of  that  icy  court  above.  They  remi  nd 
one  of  the  beautiful  conceit  of  the  Spanish  poet,  that 
a brook  is  the  laugh  of  the  mountain. 

We  pass  along  amid  granite  walls  on  the  vast 
mountain  sides,  hundreds  of  feet  above  and  below 
us,  some  places  so  upright  that  from  the  summit  a 
stone  could  have  been  dropped  hundreds  of  feet  up- 
on our  heads;  while  we  could  look  thousands  of  feet 
down  the  nearly  perpendicular  side  below  us. 

Among  the  many  objects  of  grandeur  and  beauty 
which  feasted  our  eyes  as  we  passed  down  the  Pacific 
slope,  through  the  most  magnificent  forest  of  pine, 
red-wood  and  firs  in  the  world,  we  beheld  fifteen  hun- 
dred feet  below  us  a silvery  section  of  the  American 
River,  with  delicious  green  grass  sloping  down  to  it 
on  all  sides,  with  the  most  perfect  symmetry. 

As  seen  through  the  massive  trees,  it  presented 
the  rarest  picture  in  a tree-frame  of  unrivaled  ver- 


6IERRA  NEVADA  MOUNTAINS.  387 

dure.  No  part  of  our  journeying  over  the  Conti 
nent  gave  richer  or  greater  variety  of  experience, 
more  grand  beauty  of  landscape,  more  extraordina- 
ry knowledge,  more  pleasure  than  over  these  re- 
markable mountain  ranges.  We  pass  the  vast  and 
lofty  mountains;  we  are  among  the  beautifully  round- 
ed foot-hills  in  the  bewitching  valleys  that  sleep  be- 
neath these  lofty  mountains,  within  whose  dark  re- 
cesses is  earth’s  banking-house;  within  them  are  hid- 
den the  sleeping  gold  and  silver,  a mineral  wealth 
which  no  one  will  presume  to  estimate. 

Already  from  them  have  been  carried  away  mil- 
lions of  shining  gold,  which  has  entered  all  the  ave- 
nues of  trade,  and  brought  independence  to  many  a 
before  poor  home. 

But  California  may  bid  adieu  to  those  who  were 
lured  to  her  by  dreams  of  sudden  fortune — to  the 
golden  days  of  the  past — as  she  has  built  upon  the 
sure  foundations  of  exhaustless  agricultural  resour- 
ces an  empire  to  endure  while  there  shall  be  seed 
time  and  harvest.  The  mountain  streams,  which  a 
few  years  ago  the  gold  hunter  conducted  among  the 
lower  hills  to  wash  out  grains  of  gold,  are  now  ap- 
plied to  the  parched  earth,  and  give  certain  return 
in  streams  of  wine  and  rich  harvests. 

After  our  long  travels  over  mountain  and  desert, 
these  pleasant  valley-homes,  embowered  with  trees, 


388 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


festooning  vines  and  flowers,  seemed  more  wonder* 
fully  beautiful  than  ever  before.  Another  kind  of 
beauty  and  wonder  now  feasted  our  eyes,  among  the 
western  foot-hills  of  the  Sierras — once  more  among 
life’s  common  beauties  and  blessings — every-day  com- 
forts, where  the  symmetrical  hills  were  clothed  with 
a wealth  of  trees,  shrubs  and  grass,  sloped  down  to 
the  mountain  brook  into  the  bottom  of  the  valley, 
presenting  landscape  pictures  of  unrivaled  extent 
and  verdure. 

A few  hours’  ride  on  the  iron-horse  took  us  to  Sac- 
ramento, the  head  of  tide  water,  on  the  river  of  tho 

same  name,  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  above  its 

♦ 

mouth.  The  summit  line  of  the  Sierras  from  here  is 
seventy-five  miles  east  of  the  city;  and  in  winter  the 
snow-capped  mountains  can  be  seen  for  a distance, 
stretching  two  hundred  miles  from  north  to  south. 
We  had  not  lost  sight  of  the  snowy  mountains,  only 
at  short  intervals,  for  over  a year,  since  we  first  saw 
them  sixteen  hundred  miles  back  on  the  plains  be- 
fore reaching  Denver. 

Sacramento  is  tho  Capital  of  the  State,  and  the 
new  State  Buildings,  which  are  now  completed,  are 
imposing,  and  do  honor  to  the  enterprising  people 
of  the  Golden  State.  Although  the  city  has  been 
repeatedly  nearly  destroyed  by  conflagrations  and 
submerged  by  freshets — which  hindered  to  some  ex- 


SACRAMENTO. 


SIERRA  NEVADA  MOUNTAINS. 


389 


tent  the  early  growth  of  the  place — yet  the  city 
went  on  increasing  in  wealth  and  population,  so  that 
now  it  is  the  second  city  on  the  Pacific  coast.  Levees 
now  protect  the  city  from  overflow,  like  those  of 
New  Orleans,  and  the  grade  is  mostly  changed,  to  af- 
ford sure  and  permanent  protection. 

The  city  is  beautifully  shaded,  though  quite  warm 
in  summer;  is  agreeable,  and  contains  much  to  ad- 
mire of  wealth  and  culture;  lures  every  visitor  bv 
its  prolusion  of  fruit,  hanging  with  blushing  cheeks 
under  shelter  of  the  trailing  vines,  while  they  pencil 
their  summer  romances  up  to  and  over  the  eaves  of 
the  houses. 


CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 


FLOWERS. 

We  found  no  place  West  of  the  Missouri  River, 
with  such  a wealth  of  blooming  and  luxuriant  beau- 
ty  of  flowers  and  trailing  vines  as  Sacramento.  The 
city  is  made  attractive  by  the  gratification  which 
their  presence  affords.  We  had  companionship  with 
such  a floral  Eden  no  where  else  in  all  our  travel  as 
here.  The  place  seems  to  be  located  where  Nature 
is  wonderfully  lavish  in  her  remarkable  growth  of 
life's  pleasures  and  necessities. 

In  our  extended  journeyings,  occasionally  would 
be  found  in  little  park  openings  on  mountain  sides 
near  last  year's  snows,  in  valleys  and  on  desert  plains, 
a variety  of  wild  flowers,  many  times  on  sandy  wastes, 
where  nothing  else  could  grow  but  the  wild  sage. 
Yet,  during  the  season  of  them,  on  the  plains  and  in 
all  the  great  interior  mountain  country,  flower  gar- 
dens quite  beautiful  may  be  seen  in  their  isolation 
and  simplicity,  scattered  among  them  in  different  sta- 
ges of  growth  and  decay,  in  June,  July  and  August. 

In  the  mountains  and  parks  of  Colorado,  we  found 
a large  variety  of  small  flowers  and  roses,  such  as 
buttercups,  dandelions,  larkspurs,  hairbells,  painter's 


FLOWERS. 


391 


brush  and  blue  gentian,  with  their  various  compan- 
ions of  spring,  summer  and  fall,  improving  every  hour 
of  sunshine  in  their  brief  lives.  They  looked  as  hap- 
py and  emitted  their  little  fragrance  as  freely,  as 
though  they  were  in  the  midst  of  civilization.  Blue 
and  yellow  are  the  principal  colors — several  varieties 
of  the  former — round  and  trumpet-shaped  blossoms 
pendant  on  stalks;  again  a similar-shaped  flower  still 
smaller;  a little  round  flower  in  pink  and  white, 
known  only  here,  and  of  a yellow  hue.  There  are 
babies  and  grand-babies  of  the  sun-flower  family  in 
every  shade.  Some  of  these  are  about  the  sizo  of  a 
tea-saucer,  with  a centre  stem  of  richest  red,  with 
deep  yellow  leaves  hanging  away  from  it — each  col- 
or the  very  concentration  of  itself,  as  if  dyed  at  the 
original  fountain  head. 

We  found  the  hair-bell  at  home  everywhere,  stand- 
ing alone  on  the  mountain  sides,  occasionally  at  an 
elevation  of  eleven  or  twelve  hundred  feet,  as  well  as 
in  the  valleys  and  guarded  parks,  in  its  glory  among 
all  its  rivals;  but  the  fringed  gentian  is  more  partic- 
ular— grows  only  in  low,  rich  ground.  The  painter’s 
brush,  so  called  here,  stands  distinct  on  a single  low 
stalk,  about  three  inches  in  length,  and  one  inch  in 
thickness  of  flower  or  diameter,  in  every  shade  of 
red,  from  deepest  crimson  to  pale  pink,  and  in  straw 
colors  from  white  to  lemon.  The  most  attractive 


392 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


flower  I noticed  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  was  colum- 
bine, generous  but  delicate,  ot  pure  white,  exquisite 
in  form  and  coloring. 

The  traveler  will  find  amid  the  almost  utter  deso- 
lation of  desert  and  mountain  over  this  country, 
nature's  little  gardens  of  flora1  beauty,  the  ground 
white,  red  and  purple,  pocket  editions  of  poetry  in 
velvet  and  gold,  modestly  turning  up  their  beautiful 
little  faces  to  the  sun,  which  must  fall  silently  and 
unobserved,  in  coming  time  as  in  the  past.  If  my 
space  permitted,  I should  be  glad  to  give  a full  de- 
scription of  these  many  little  beauties,  tor  the  bene- 
fit of  my  flower-learned  readers. 

High  up  on  the  mountains,  where  nothing  can 
grow  but  the  mosses,  these  are  covered  with  a vari- 
ety and  richness  of  flowers,  with  white,  blue  and 
pink  blossoms.  No  large  section  of  country  can  be 
found,  even  in  these  vast  regions,  so  barren  as  not 
to  have  a flower.  In  the  poorest  portions  would  be 
sometimes  found  a wealth  of  flowers — the  otherwise 
naked  sand-gravel  nearly  carpeted  in  places  with 
these  little  flowers,  presenting  their  smiling  faces  to 
the  scorching  sun. 

This  wealth  of  flowers  has  strength,  but  not  coarse- 
ne  s.  The  colors  are  more  deep  and  delicate  than 
those  in  our  flower  gardens;  and,  although  frosts 
may  freeze  them  every  night  on  the  mountains,  yet 


FLOWERS. 


39b 

the  dryness  of  the  air  preserves  them  through  the 
season,  and  they  continue  on  growing  and  flowering 
until  winter  freezes  them  out. 

Many  species  of  Cactus  are  found  in  Colorado,  New 
Mexico  and  Arizona,  which  are  quite  beautiful  when 
in  flower.  In  the  two  latter  places  they  grov  very 
large,  and  horses  sometimes  get  the  sharp  thorns  in 
their  ankles,  and  are  ruined  in  consequence.  But  ir. 
California,  they4 grow  eight  and  ten  feet  high — a 
wonderful  size  for  the  kind. 

There  is  also  another  plant  found  extensively 
through  these  same  countries,  known  as  the  soap- 
plant,  grows  very  stout,  and  has  a long  tap-root,  en- 
abling it  to  grow  in  the  dryest  country;  has  wide, 
long,  thick  leaves,  possesses  soapy  properties,  and  is 
used  in  the  absence  of  the  real  article  for  washing 
purposes. 

Flowers  abound  in  all  directions  in  Portland. 
Acres  of  verbenas,  geraniums,  fuchsias,  mignonette, 
tube  roses,  coronations,  superb  lilies,  and  many  othei 
kinds,  together  with  English  ivies  overrunning  house 
fronts,  trumpet  flowers  and  columbine,  seem  to  cover 
everything.  The  houses  were  steeped  in  the  fra- 
grance of  the  roses  and  odorous  vines  that  crawl  in 
over  every  door  and  window  sill. 

The  city  is  a wealth  of  floral  beauty  seven  months 
of  the  year.  The  profusion  and  intenseness  of  this 


394 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


floral  life  seems  not  so  much  the  adornments  of  the 
place  as  it  is  of  Portland.  But  the  cities  of  California 
and  pleasant  valley  homes,  embowered  with  trees, 
flowers  and  festooning  vines,  are  more  to  be  admired, 
more  wonderfully  beautiful  than  can  be  found  else- 
where on  this  continent.  Here  the  lemon  verbena 
is  a hot  house  plant;  there  it  is  a bush  several  feet 
high.  Here  you  will  see  an  oleander  beautifying 
a parlor;  there  you  will  find  hundreds  of  bunches 
in  some  yards  in  full  blossom  among  what  looks  like 
showers  of  roses.  No  one  can  visit  this  sunset  land 
without  feeling  the  magic  influence  of  flowers  steal- 
ing insensibly  over  him. 

“ God  might  have  bidden  the  earth  bring  forth 
Enough  tor  great  and  small, 

The  oak  tree  and  the'cedar-tree 
Without  a flower  at  all. 

We  might  have  had  enough,  enough 
For  every  want  of  ours, 

For  luxury,  medicine,  and  toil 
And  yet  have  had  no  flowers. 

The  ore  within  the  mountain  mine 
Requireth  none  to  grow; 

Nor  doth  it  need  the  lotus  flower 
To  make  the  river  flow. 

The  clouds  might  give  abundant  rain, 

The  nightly  dews  might  fall, 

And  the  herb  that  giveth  life  to  man 
Might  yet  have  drunk  them  all. 

Then  wherefore,  wherefore  were  they  made, 

All  dyed  with  rainbow  light: 

All  fashioned  with  exquisite  grace, 

Upspringing  day  and  night: 


FLOWERS. 


395 


Blooming  in  valleys  green  and  low, 
And  on  the  mountains  high, 

And  In  the  silent  wilderness, 

Where  no  man  passes  by? 

Our  outward  life  requires  them  not, 
Then  wherefore  had  they  birth? 

To  minister  delight  to  man, 

To  beautify  the  earth : 

To  comfort  man — to  whisper  hope, 
Whene’er  his  faith  is  dim; 

For  who  so  careth  for  the  flowers 
Will  much  more  care  for  him  *” 


CHAPTER  XXXIX. 


MAMMOTH  TREE  GROVE. 

It  is  easy  to  doubt  or  disbelieve  the  traveler  who 
describes  objects  which  he  has  seen  that  are  unlike 
our  own  experience;  he  may  have  been  credulous 
and  imposed  upon,  or  wishing  to  make  himself  a 
hero,  is  tempted  to  exaggerate. 

I am  now  about  to  write  of  the  most  stupendous 
vegetable  growth,  and  no  doubt  the  oldest  existing 
upon  the  globe,  the  truth  of  which  I hope  will  be 
tested  hereafter  by  many  of  my  readers. 

On  our  way  over  the  mountains,  through  the  very 
heavy  forest,  we  stopped  to  measure  some  trees  be- 
side the  road.  The  first  and  largest  one  we  had 
seen  measured  eighteen  feet  in  circumference,  but 
as  we  passed  on  a few  miles  we  came  to  one  which 
measured  twenty-two  feet  in  circumference.  Then 
we  saw  many  more  equally  as  large,  whose  hight 
was  from  two  hundred  and  fifty  to  three  hundred 
feet.  These  are  the  common  sugar  pines  of  the  re- 
gion, which  became  very  celebrated  on  account  of 
their  remarkable  growth,  before  the  discovery  of 
the  “Big  Trees”  of  California  in  1852;  a hunter  hav- 
ing wounded  a bear,  which  he  followed  to  these  most 


MAMMOTH  TREE  GROVE. 


397 


wonderful  trees,  then  made  it  known.  While  he 
gazed  in  astor-ishment  his  wounded  bear  escaped, 
and  he  returned  to  camp. 

His  story  was  received  with  laughter  and  derision. 
But  soon  after,  on  another  hunting  excursion,  he 
led  several  of  his  companions  over  mountains  and 
through  gorges,  till  tlmy  were  among  “ the  big 
trees,1 ” and  were  convinced  of  the  truthfulness  of 
their  companion. 

No  visitor  of  California  should  fail  to  see  these 
trees.  They  have  attracted  pilgrims  from  the  Old 
World,  and  their  fame  has  already  gone  over  the 
globe,  and  titled  men  and  ladies  have  viewed  them 
with  wonder.  There  seems  to  be  no  convincing 
theory  of  their  origin;  century-looking  minerets, 
towering  up  in  grand  unconsciousness,  impressing 
the  beholder  with  the  feeling  of  a growth,  long  ago, 
of  some  other  world. 

*•  In  fact  there’s  nothing  that  keeps  its  youth, 

So  far  as  I know,  but  a tree  and  truth.” 

These  sequoia  gigariteaare  the  world’s  patriarchs. 
Some  botanists  place  their  origin  back  of  human 
history.  By  counting  the  concentric  circles  in  a 
tree,  we  found  some  of  the  largest  trees  to  count 
three  thousand,  making  them  as  many  years  old. 
No  one  can  estimate  the  age  of  the  largest  at  less 
than  eighteen  hundred  years.  Perhaps  their  youth 


398  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

saw  the  humble  carpenter  of  Judea,  a man  of  sor- 
rows and  acquainted  with  grief,  despised  and  re- 
jected of  men. 

On  arriving  at  the  trees  you  find  a beautiful  piece 
of  moist,  rich  table-land  four  thousand  five  hundred 
feet  above  sea  level,  two  thousand  feet  of  which  is 
made  in  the  last  few  miles  of  the  road.  The  grove 
is  a place  exceedingly  beautiful — a grand  old  forest 
away  from  the  world’s  highway,  in  the  midst  of  the 
mountain  tops  of  the  Sierras,  in  central  Calaveras 
county,  is  the  most  accessible,  and  the  most  beauti- 
ful of  any  of  the  big  tree  groves  in  California. 

From  Stockton,  at  the  head  of  steamboat  naviga- 
tion, it  is  in  a staight  line  70  miles  to  the  trees;  but 
by  the  stage  road,  through  Copperopolis,  75  miles. 
This  is  the  route  taken  from  San  Francisco  and  the 
Bay  region  to  reach  the  grove. 

The  traveler,  on  arriving  at  the  Grove  Hotel,  will 
find  himself  surrounded  with  the  comforts  of  a good 
traveler’s  home,  which  invites  him  to  stop  his  wan- 
derings for  a time  to  receive  the  enjoyments  this 
remarkable  place  presents. 

Many  of  these  trees,  perhaps  a quarter  in  the 
grove,  will  measure  twenty-five  feet  in  diameter — 
very  many  that  are  thirty  feet,  and  I measured  sev- 
eral that  were  thirty-three  feet  in  diameter.  Nearly 
in  front  of  the  hotel  one  of  the  largest  trees  was 


MAMMOTH  TREE  GROVE. 


309 


felled  in  1854,  which  was  perfectly  sound  the  who'e 
distance  through,  thirty-three  feet.  Five  men  worked 
•twenty-five  days  with  pump  augers,  before  they 
could  get  it  down.  The  stump  is  five  feet  from  the 
ground,  has  a house  built  over  it,  and  easily  accom- 
modates four  quadrille  sets  of  dancers,  musicians, 
and  a few  spectators  at  a time.  Theatrical  perform- 
ances have  been  held  upon  it,  and  a few  years  ago 
a newspaper,  The  Big  Tree  Bulletin , was  printed 
there. 

Near  the  stump  lies  a section  of  the  trunk  twenty- 
five  feet  in  diameter  and  twenty  feet  long,  which  you 
can  mount  only  by  wood  steps,  twenty-eight  in 
number,  and  long  ones  too.  About  thirty  feet  of 
the  trunk  has  been  taken  out  to  supply  visitors  with 
canes  and  other  specimens  of  the  wood.  Beyond 
lies  the  immense  trunk  as  it  fell,  measuring  302 
feet  from  the  base  of  the  stump  to  its  extremity. 
Upon  this  was  situated  a bar-room  and  ten-pin  alley, 
stretching  along  its  upper  surface  for  a distance 
of  eighty-one  feet,  affording  ample  space  for  two 
alley  beds  side  by  side.  If  you  wish  to  get  an  idea 
of  the  diameter  of  this  tree,  measure  off  thirty-three 
feet,  and  see  where  there  is  a room  as  large  as  the 
diameter  of  that  tree. 

About  eighty  feet  from  this  stump  stands  the  “Two 
Sentinels,”  each  over  300  feet  high,  and  the  larger 


40U 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


twenty-three  feet  in  diameter.  Tlie  carriage  road 
approaching  the  hotel  passes  directly  between  them. 

Starting  from  the  hotel  for  the  walk  that  visitor^ 
usually  take,  we  soon  came  to  the  first  cluster  of  the 
sequoias , and  were  named  respectively  in  1865. 
U.  S.  Grant,  W.  T.  Sherman  and  J.  B.  McPherson 
— after  three  leading  Generals  of  the  Union  Army. 

A short  distance  from  these  is  the  “ Pride  of  the 
Forest.”  It  is  eighteen  feet  in  diameter  and  three 
hundred  feet  high — one  of  the  healthiest  and  no- 
blest trees  in  the  forest. 

Near  by  stands  “ Phil  Sheridan,”  a stout,  graceful 
tree,  three  hundred  feet  high,  and  near  this  lies  the 
“ Miner’s  Cabin,”  which  was  blown  down  a few  years 
ago  by  a terrific  gale  in  1860.  It  is  three  hundred 
and  nineteen  feet  long  and  twenty-one  and  a half 
feet  in  diameter. 

About  two  hundred  feet  east  of  the  “ Miner’s 
Cabin”  brings  us  to  the  “Three  Graces,”  a group  of 
three  trees  close  together,  regarded  by  many  as  the 
most  beautiful  cluster  in  the  grove. 

A little  distance  from  these  stands  “ Andrew  John- 
son,” so  named  in  the  summer  of  1865.  Making 
this  tree  a central  point  of  observation,  we  have 
several  magnificent  trees  within  a short  distance; 
one  bearing  the  name  of  that  Philanthropic  English 
ladv.  Florence  “ Nightingale  f another  named  “ Bay 


MAMMOTH  TREE  GROVE. 


401 

State another  named  “ W.  H.  Seward;”  and  also 
one  named  “W.  C.  Bryant,”  so  named  by  a lady  ad- 
mirer of  that  distinguished  poet. 

In  the  center  of  the  grove  is  a tree  two  hundred  j 
and  eighty  feet  high,  seventeen  feet  in  diameter, 
singularly  hollowed  out  by  fire,  and  named  “ Pluto’s 
Chimney.”  The  “chimney”  made  by  the  fire  exte  nds 
from  the  ground  ninety  feet  upwards. 

Near  this  tree  is  the  “ Quartette”  cluster,  the 
highest  of  which  is  two  hundred  and  twenty  feet;  a 
few  yards  from  these  is  a very  healthy  young  tree 
two  hundred  and  eighty  feet  high,  named  by  a San 
Francisco  lady,  “America.”*  Its  constitution  ap- 
pears vigorous  and  healthy.  It  has  been  well  named. 

Two  large  trees,  one  on  the  right,  the  other  on  i 
the  left  of  the  path,  nearly  opposite,  are“  California” 
and  “Broderick.”  The  next  tree  is  “Henry  Ward 
Beecher,”  two  hundred  and  eighty  feet  high  and 
fourteen  feet  in  diameter. 

A few  steps  farther  brings  us  to  the  “ Fallen 
Monarch,”  which  has  to  all  appearances  been  down 
for  centuries.  It  is  still  eighteen  feet  in  diameter, 
though  much  of  the  wood  has  been  washed  away  by 
time.  What  is  left  is  sound.  But  the  upper  half 
or  two-thirds,  which  struck  the  earth  with  great 
force  in  its  fall,  has  all  disappeared,  and  trees  a 
century  old  are  growing  where  it  struck.  This  tree 


\ 


102 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


must  have  been  over  three  hundred  feet  high  and 
twenty-five  feet  in  diameter. 

Fifty  paces  from  this  is  a cluster  of  twelve  trees, 
in  size  of  the  second  class,  averaging  fifteen  feet  in 
diameter  and  two  hundred  and  eighty  feet  in  hight. 
One  eighteen  feet  in  diameter  and  three  hundred 
and  twenty  feet  high,  named  “Abraham  Lincoln;’’ 
and  others  named  “ Gen.  Wadsworth,”  “Uncle  Sam,” 
“ Union,”  &c. 

The  “ Mother  of  the  Forest,”  has  been  stripped  of 
her  bark  for  upwards  of  one  hundred  and  sixteen 
feet  from  the  ground,  which  was  sent  to  England. 
It  is  of  course  dead,  and  the  top  limbs  are  beginning 
to  fall.  Near  the  top  a small  tree  has  taken  root  in 
the  body  of  the  “ Mother,”  and  is  apparently  intent 
on  coming  to  something. 

This  tree  is  three  hundred  and  twenty-seven  feet 
high ; and  without  the  bark  seventy-eight  feet  in 
circumference. 

A few  rods  from  this  is  “ Gen.  Sutter,”  which,  di- 
viding thirty  feet  from  the  ground,  forms  two  dis- 
tinct trees,  each  two  hundred  and  eighty  feet  high. 

Also,  near  this  is  the  “Trinity” — three  trees  grow- 
ing from  one  trunk.  The  circumference  below  the 
divergence  is  sixty  feet. 

One  hundred  feet  from  “Longfellow,”  brings  us 
amidst  the  family  group.  Standing  near  the  uproot- 


MAMMOTH  TREE  GROVE.  403 

ed  base  of  the  “ Father  of  the  Forest/7  the  scene  is 
grand  and  beautiful.  The  Father  long  since  laid  his 
body  on  the  ground.  Yet,  stupendous  in  his  ruin, 
he  measures  one  hundred  and  twelve  feet  in  circum- 
ference at  the  base,  and  can  be  traced  three  hundred 
feet.  Where  the  trunk  was  broken  by  falling  against 
another  tree,  it  here  measures  sixteen  feet  in  diam- 
eter, and  according  to  the  average  taper  of  the  other 
trees,  must  have  been  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in 
hight  when  standing.  A hollow  cavity  extends 
through  the  trunk  two  hundred  feet — large  enough 
for  a person  to  ride  through  on  horseback! 

Walking  upon  the  trunk,  and  looking  from  its  up- 
rooted base,  the  mind  can  hardly  conceive  its  dimen- 
sions; while  on  either  side  tower  his  giant  sons  and 
daughters,  forming  the  most  impressive  scene  in  the 
forest. 

Next  we  come  to  a cluster  of  three  trees,  named 
“Starr  King/7  “ Richard  Cobden77  and  John  Bright.77 
“ Starr  King77  is  the  highest  standing  tree  in  the  grove, 
three  hundred  and  sixty-six  feet.  “Daniel  O’Con- 
nell’7 and  “ Edward  Everett77  stand  next.  They  are 
young  trees,  eight  or  nine  hundred  years  old,  and 
very  vigorous. 

Near  the  “ Father7’  are  “ James  King/7  of  William. 
“ Keystone  State/7  “ Sir  John  Franklin,77  “ Dr.  Kane,7’ 
and  the  “ Century/7  so  named  after  the  “ Century 


X 


404 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


Club,”  of  New  York,  of  which  Bryant  is  President. 
Close  to  these  stand  three  of  the  largest  size  trees, 
the  “ Keystone,”  “ Lafayette”  and  “ F.  F.  Low.” 

“ Hercules”  stretches  his  huge  body  across  the 
path.  This  was  the  largest  tree  standing  in  the 
grove  until  ?62,  when  during  a severe  storm  it  fell. 
It  is  three  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  long  and 
ninety-nine  feet  in  circumference.  When  standing, 
this  tree  leaned  about  sixty  feet  from  perpendicular. 
Most  all  of  them  have  nearly  a perfect  equilibrium. 
“ Joseph  Hooker,”  “ Humboldt,”  and  some  smaller 
trees,  stand  together  on  the  slope  of  the  hill,  near 
the  broken  top  of ‘‘  Hercules.” 

Not  far  from  these  lies  the  “ Old  Maid,”  which  fell 
towards  her  frieud,  the  “ Old  Bachelor,”  in  1865,  bad- 
ly broken  to  pieces,  while  he  looks  as  healthy  and 
unconcerned  as  though  no  misfortune  had  befallen 
his  friend.  The  “Siamese  Twins,”  “Daniel  Web- 
ster,” “ Granite  State,”  “ Old  Republican,”  “ Henry 
Clay,”  “Andrew  Johnson,”  “Vermont,”  “ Empire 
State,”  “ Old  Dominion,”  “ George  Washington.”  aud 
“Uncle  Torq’s  Cabin,”  are  all  first  class  trees,  from 
twenty  to  thirty  feet  in  diameter,  and  from  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  to  three  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet 
in  hight.  All  the  trees  named  have  a small  slab  of 
white  maible,  with  the  name  engraven  thereon,  fast- 
ened to  the  trunk  about  twenty  feet  from  the  ground. 


MAMMOTH  TREE  GROVE. 


405 


In  this  grove  observation  will  detect  a number  of 
young  trees,  say  from  ten  to  three  hundred  years 
old,  and  from  forty  to  two  hundred  feet  high.  They 
are  growing  finely  and  promise,  b trring  accidents  of 
wind  and  fire,  to  be  well  brought  up  middle-aged 
trees  of  their  kind,  in  about  a thousand  or  fifteen  hun- 
dred years.  Many  of  these  trees  nave  been  badly 
injured  by  the  Indians  building  their  fires  against 
them  in  former  years.  We  are  indignant  at  the  stu- 
pidity which  could  see  nothing  in  those  trees  but  a 
big  back- log  for  their  fires. 

These  trees  are  the  only  living  monuments  that 

connect  us  with  olden  time.  Perhaps  before  Old 

Rome  was  planted  on  the  hills,  certaiuly  long  before 

any  man  imagined  this  Continent,  these  youthful 

trees  were  lifting  their  noble  forms  in  these  far-away 

mountain  solitudes,  to  be  ready  for  eyes  that  would 

appreciate  them  in  the  Nineteenth  Century. 

“ These  giant  trees,  in  silent  majesty, 

Like  pillars  stand  ’neath  heaven’s  mighty  dome; 

’Twould  seem  that,  perched  upon  their  topmost  branch, 
With  outstretched  finger,  man  might  touch  the  stars. 

Yet,  could  he  gain  that  hight,  the  boundless  sky 
Were  still  as  far  beyond  his  utmost  reach 
As  from  the  burrowing  toilers  in  a mine; 

Their  age  unknown,  into -what  depths  of  time 
Might  Fancy  wander  sportively,  and  deem 
Some  monarch  father  of  this  grove  set  forth 
His  tiny  shoot,  when  the  primeval  flood 
Receded  from  the  old  and  changed  earth. 


406 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


Perhaps,  coeval  with  Assyrian  kings, 

His  branches  in  dominion  spiead  ! From  age 
To  age  his  sappling  heirs  with  empires  grew, 

When  Time  those  patriarch’s  leafy  tresses  strewed 
Upon  the  earth ; when  Art  and  Science  slept, 

And  ruthless  hordes  drove  back  Improvement’s  stream, 
Their  sturdy  head-tops  throve,  and  in  their  turn 
Rose  when  Columbus  gave  to  Spain  a world. 

How  many  races,  savage  and  refined, 

Have  dwelt  beneath  their  shelter ! Who  shall  say  ? 

(If  hands  irreverent  molest  them  not.) 

But  they  may  shadow  mighty  cities,  reared 
E’en  at  their  roots,  in  centuries  to  come, 

Till  with  the  everlasting  hills  they  bow 
When  time  shall  be  no  longer.” 

Never  before  had  we  seen  long  centuries  of  time 
stamped  upon  trees;  never  before  did  we  so  fully 
appreciate  such  forms  of  greatness,  and  grandeur 
that  humbles;  never  before  had  we  stood  beside 
living  age,  so  wonderfully  embodied.  One  feels  as 
though  he  expected  to  see  the  mighty  Power  that 
has  upheld  these  wonders  visible  upon  them. 

1 would  advise  all  travelers  who  are  in  San  Fran- 
cisco, or  have  an  opportunity  to  send  for  them,  to 
procure  some  photographs  of  the  Big  Trees.  They 
will,  on  your  possessing  them,  become  a source  of 
much  enjoyment. 


BIG  TREE  GROUP, 


CHAPTER  XL. 

YOSEMITE  VALLEY. 


Leave  the  city  of  San  Francisco  in  the  evening 
boat  for  Stockton,  a beautiful  sail  while  it  is  day 
and  you  are  on  deck,  and  arrive  at  Stockton  at  six 
o’clock  next  morning.  From  here  there  are  two 
routes  to  the  valley  by  stage — one  to  the  north  to 
the  Caleveras  big  tree  grove,  and  the  other  more  to 
the  south.  But  I am  at  Mr.  Perry’s  comfortable 
hotel,  among  the  giant  trees,  and  leave  in  the  morn- 
ing and  go  to  Murphy’s  Camp;”  dine  and  press  on, 
crossing  the  rapid  Stonislous  River  and  remarkable 
mountain  gorges  to  Sonora,  amid  the  amazing  relics 
of  the  miners.  Remaining  here  over  night,  in  the 
morning  pass  on  through  the  “ Chinese  Camp,”  cross 
Tuolumne  River,  ascend  and  descend  mountains,  till 
you  arrive  at  Harding’s  Ranch,  where  you  must  tako 
the  saddle. 

Now  get  the  best  horse  you  can,  and  with  a guide 
start  off,  with  good  courage,  for  an  unusual  hard 
day’s  ride  in  the  saddle.  We  have  a hard-riding, 
but  very  sure-footed  animal,  when  we  leave  the 
world’s  hard-trodden  highway  and  enter  the  forests, 
as^nd  vast  mountains,  go  through  gorges  and  down 


408 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


long  ridges,  admire  myriads  of  the  most  beautiful 
trees  the  eye  ever  saw,  pass  over  leads  of  snow  on 
the  highest  mountains  for  miles,  (in  mid-summer.) 
then  perhaps  through  parks  of  Nature’s  planting. 
We  move  on,  seldom  faster  than  a walk,  till  we  have 
had  twenty-five  long,  weary  miles’  ride,  when  we 
look  down  from  the  summit  of  the  mountain — three 
thousand  feet  into  a valley — which  is  four  thousand 
and  seventy-five  feet  above  the  sea. 

About  two  hundred  miles  easterly  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, and  not  far  from  the  summit  of  the  snow- 
capped Nevada  Mountains,  are  some  of  the  most  re- 
markable depressions,  gorges  and  canyons  ever  found. 

While  we  are  looking  down  the  most  wonderful 
one  of  them  all,  we  pause,  admire,  and  hold  our 
breath.  The  place  is  so  unlike  any  other  in  match- 
less grandeur,  that  we  feel  the  pulse-beatings  of  Om- 
nipotent power.  We  are  looking  east,  and  at  our 
right  hand  is  an  opening  through  immense  perpen- 
dicular walls,  only  wide  enough  for  a foaming  river 
to  dash  out.  The  canyon  looks  as  if  the  great 
mountains  had  just  opened  to  let  the  river  through, 
and  you  almost  expect  to  see  them  come  together 
again.  Very  high  up,  between  the  rock  walls  over 
the  valley,  is  suspended  in  mid-air  the  thinnest  possi- 
ble veil  of  mist  caused  by  the  falling  waters.  This 
is  “Yosemite  Valley 


. 


FOOT  OF  TRAIL  YO-8EM1TE. 


\0SEM1TE  VALLEY.  409 

We  begin  to  descend;  the  hid  is  so  steep  that  the 
path  must  be  zigzag,  and  so  fearful  to  unsteady 
nerves  that  you  must  walk  the  most  of  the  distance. 
Sometimes  the  path  crosses  a mountain  stream,  furi- 
ously dashing  along  its  rock  worn  channel,  now  on 
the  very  brink  of  frightful  precipices,  where,  should 
a single  misstep  be  made  out  of  the  way  on  the  pre- 
cipitous side,  one  would  fall,  in  some  places,  two 
thousand  feet  before  stopping. 

We  have  now  come  down  three  thousand  feet  in 
two  and  a half  miles,  over  numberless  loose  rocks  and 
ledges  and  turbulent  water,  (where  the  faithful  horse’s 
legs  ought  to  be  well  insured,)  to  the  bottom  of  the 
valley,  about  eight  miles  long,  and  from  a half  to 
one  mile  wide,  with  a crystal  river,  the  “ Merced,” 
(daughter  of  the  eternal  snows  farther  east,)  from 
fifty  to  seventy  feet  wide,  and  from  eight  to  twelve 
feet  deep,  and  falling  some  fifty  feet  during  its 
passage  in  the  valley.  No  adequate  description  of 
the  place  can  be  given,  such  as  will  give  you  a cor- 
rect idea  of  its  unsurpassed  wonders  of  admiration. 
Like  some  few  remarkable  places  in  nature,  it  must 
be  seen  to  be  appreciated. 

Imagine  yourself  in  a canyon,  inaccessible  save 
at  one  place,  with  massive  perpendicular  walls  lifted 
up  a mile  high,  eight  miles  long  and  half  a mile 
wide,  and  you  have  a basin  a mile  deep,  while  the 


410  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

country  outside  of  these  nature-masoned  walls  is  at 
least  a mile  higher.  This  rocky  basin  has  been 
slowly  assuming  its  present  form  for  many  longcen 
turies  past. 

Some  miles  east  of  the  head  of  the  basin  lie  the 
great  mountain  ranges,  where  snows  annually  fall 
and  melt.  The  waters  wear  a channel  till  they  find 
the  head  of  this,  their  reservoir,  and  then  dash 
themselves  down  into  it.  Also  other  rivers  (there 
are  no  creeks  in  this  country  as  with  us)  are  formed, 
push  away  the  barriers  and  leap  headlong  into  the 
basin.  The  rains  and  the  frosts  assist  the  many 
streams  to  wear  away  the  rocks  on  all  sides,  till  the 
hardest  portions  are  left  perpendicular  or  rounded 
over  into  polished  domes,  or  standing  in  spires,  like 
those  of  an  old  cathedral.  The  debris  of  the  rocks 
washes  down  in  the  course  of  time,  and  forms  piles 
from  two  to  four  hundred  feet  high,  and  making 
a soil  at  the  bottom  of  the  basin.  Thus  it  is  gradu- 
ally filled  up,  the  river  is  raised,  trees  and  grass 
grow,  and  so  we  now  find  it — the  walled  picturesque 
valley — whose  sides  are  all  rock,  which,  we  are 
told,  that  if  these  rocks  should  fall  together  at  the 
same  moment  and  come  together  in  the  middle,  there 
would  be  an  arch  over  the  valley  a half  a mile  high; 
but  who  can  realize  it?  There  is  nothing  but  the 
dome  of  heaven  by  which  to  make  comparison. 


. 


YOSEMITE  VALLEY. 


411 


Should  you  look  at  the  trees,  two  hundred  feet  high, 
they  look  like  shrubs. 

We  have  no  means  by  which  to  measure  distance, 
to  .tell  one  thousand  feet  from  three  thousand  feet. 
We  feel  a disappointment  that  things  in  the  valley 
appear  small  when  they  are  of  unusual  size. 

We  are  now  in  the  western  end  of  the  valley  go- 
ing east,  the  waters  of  the  river  meeting  us.  We 
find,  as  we  move  up  the  valley,  ten  high  summits  on 
the  sides,  quite  prominent,  peculiar  and  dissimilar. 
We  also  find  several  large  streams  dashing  down  in 
different  places,  and  smaller  ones,  that  come  down 
like  satin  ribbons.  It  is  July,  when  the  snows  are 
rapidly  melting,  the  streams  falling,  and  the  falls 
the  grandest  of  the  year. 

The  first  one  we  come  to  is  “ Tall  and  Slender 
Fall,”  which  first  creeps,  then*rushes  down  the  face 
of  rocks  three  thousand  three  hundred  feet. 

We  gaze  at  the  ribbon  on  the  rock,  then  the 
stream  we  cross,  and  are  surprised  at  the  amount 
of  water  coming  down  in  that  little  stream. 

As  we  go  on  up  the  valley  we  behold  a might) 
pyramid  rising  up  on  our  left — the  “ Great  Chief 
of  the  Valley” — three  thousand  three  hundred  feet 
high,  top-flat  and  naked.  We  stand  at  its  base  and 
gaze  upon  it,  perpendicular  for  two  thousand  feet, 
feeling  that  the  great  mass  is  ready  to  fall  upon  us: 


412  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

but  it  is  so  solid  and  bard  that  you  soon  feel,  how- 
ever, that  it  might  be  the  corner-stone  of  a 
world. 

Nearly  opposite,  on  the  south  side  of  the  valley, 
is  “ Bridal  Vail ” a most  exquisitely  beautiful  sheet 
of  water,  falling  nine  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  dashing 
and  foaming,  throwing  out  showers  of  snowy  rock- 
ets as  it  falls  into  its  great  rocky  caldron;  properly 
called  the  “ Bridal  Vail/7  from  its  flowing,  feathery- 
gauze-like  covering,  as  though  trying  to  conceal  the 
blushing  face  and  form  of  beauty.  The  stream  is 
large,  and  out  of  the  much  spray  that  is  caused  by 
dashing  down  upon  the  boulders  the  sun  weaves 
and  hangs  over  the  abyss  the  most  beautiful  rain- 
bows. 

A little  distance  from  here  are  the  “Three 
Graces/7  large  masses*of  rocks  standing  far  up  into 
the  clouds,  and  farther  on  are  the  “ Cathedral 
Spires/7  which,  at  so  great  a distance,  look  not  much 
larger  than  men,  but  they  are  hundreds  of  feet 
high. 

Next  come  the  great  “ Cathedral  Rocks/7  having 
the  appearance  of  round  watch  towers  of  some 
vast  building. 

Passing  on  we  come  to  the  “ Three  Brothers,” 
three  mountain  summits,  very  remarkable,  which  are 
uot  easily  described,  but  when  seen  will  never  be 


YO-SEMITE  FALLS, 


YOSEMITE  VALLEY. 


413 

forgotten.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  valley  are 
the  “Three  Sisters,”  most  graceful  in  beauty,  as  if 
chiseled  by  human  hands. 

We  are  now  in  the  centre  of  the  valley  going  east 
On  our  left  are  Yosemite  Falls,  divided  into  three 
falls — the  first,  sixteen  hundred  and  fifty  feet  per- 
pendicular; the  second  four  hundred  and  fifty,  and 
the  third  six  hundred  and  forty  feet.  Yo  Sem-i-te  is 
the  Indian  name  now  given  to  the  valley,  and  means 
Grizzly  Bear. 

Opposite  these  falls  is  “ Sentinel  Rock,”  three  thou- 
sand two  hundred  and  seventy  five  feet  high.  At 
the  base  of  this  wonderful  rock,  is  “ Heeching’s  Ho- 
tel,” where  all  who  visit  here  must  stay,  and  where 
all  will  be  made  comfortable  and  happy  with  such  a 
host  and  hostess  in  such  a place.  Here  you  hear, 
day  and  night,  the  roar  of  the  greatest  waterfall  in 
the  world,  as  to  distance.  We  get  up  at  night  to  ad- 
mire and  never  get  weary  contemplating  its  magnifi- 
cence. I was  told  that  in  winter  the  spray  freezes 
and  piles  up  till  there  is  a hollow  pillar  hundreds 
of  feet  high,  which,  when  the  spring  floods  come, 
struggles  with  giant  power  for  a time,  but  soon  loses 
its  stronghold,  the  ice  mountains  give  wav,  and  falls 
into  fragments,  when  the  cataract  begins  again  its 
thundering  song  for  another  year.  This  foaming 
river,  pouring  down  the  first  falls  nine  times  higher 


414 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


than  Niagara,  seems  to  the  eye  from  the  bottom  of 
the  valley  to  be  not  more  than  two  feet  wide  at  the 
top,  but  is  said  to  be  over  forty  feet.  The  river 
made  by  it  at  the  bridge  is  forty  feet  wide  and  over 
seven  deep.  As  we  go  up  towards  the  head,  the 
valley  divides  into  two  canyons,  through  which  the 
two  branches  of  the  Merced  run,  uniting  at  the  foot 
of  the  great  bluff,  which  has  the  appearance  of  push- 
ing down  the  valley  between  them. 

We  ascend  the  right  hand  canyon,  following  up 
the  river  on  foot  along  its  boiling,  leaping  water,  till 
we  come  to  “Vernal  Falls/7  where  the  spray  soon 
drenches  us  to  the  skin,  while  the  most  beautiful  lit- 
tle rainbows  are  hovering  and  playing  around  us. 
We  are  at  the  foot  of  the  falls,  two  thousand  feet 
higher  than  where  we  entered  the  valley.  These 
magnificent  falls,  the  largest  of  all  as  to  quantity  of 
water,  are  something  over  three  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  high,  which  are  ascended  by  a mysterious  look- 
ing ladder,  fastened  to  the  perpendicular  side  of  the 
rock,  which  has  the  appearance  of  hanging  in  the  air. 
If  you  have  nerves  of  steel,  you  may  go  up  safely 
and  congratulate  yourself  on  courage,  otherwise  you 
had  better  not  undertake  it. 

We  now  go  up  the  river  half  a mile  to  “Nevada 
Falls,”  seven  hundred  feet  high,  the  most  beautiful 
waterfall  I ever  beheld.  It  unites  the  power  and 


YOSEMITE  VALLEY. 


415 

majesty  of  Niagara  with  much  more  outline  of  beau- 
ty. I am  quite  sure  that  it  cannot  be  equaled  on 
the  face  of  the  globe  for  marvelous  beauty.  In  the 
opposite  canyon  is  another  fall,  six  hundred  feet, 
which  anywhere  else  would  be  celebrated  for  its 
magnificence  and  beauty.  There  are  several  more 
lofty  “ summits’’ not  mentioned,  such  as  “ Cap  of  Lib- 
erty/* “Mount  Starr  King/’  and  “North  and  South 
Domes.” 

The  “North  Dome”  is  three  thousand  seven  hun- 
dred feet  high.  Near  it  stands  Washington’s  Col- 
umn, strong  and  lofty.  The  South  Dome  is  the  most 
remarkable — was  once,  no  doubt,  the  shape  of  an 
egg,  the  big  end  up — and  by  some  convulsion  of  Na- 
ture, this  solid  rock  was  split  in  two — one-half  left 
standing  nearly  perpendicular,  four  thousand  five 
hundred  and  eighty  feet,  nearly  a mile  high.  The 
other  half  was,  no  doubt,  dashed  down  to  the  bottom 
of  the  canyon,  now  buried  out  of  sight,  but  damming 
the  river  and  making  the  beautiful  little  lake  we 
now  find — the  transparent  waters  of  which  are  Na- 
ture’s mirror,  reflecting  with  an  accuracy  and  beau- 
ty these  remarkable  mountains  which  can  hardly  be 
excelled.  It  is  properly  named  “ Mirror  Lake,”  and 
is  much  admired. 

Early  in  the  morning  a thin  haze  covers  the  val- 
ley, and  slowly  moves  up  the  mountain  sides,  as  the 


416 


BEYOND  THE  WEST* 


streams  of  the  brilliant  sunlight  from  an  unclouded 
sky  come  pouring  through  the  openings  in  the  moun- 
tain tops,  illuminating  long  belts  of  mists  which  ex- 
tend across  the  valley,  and  are  lost  among  the  rocks 
and  foliage.  Numberless  little  white  clouds  are  sep- 
arated from  the  misty  curtain — are  creeping  up  the 
mountain  side  among  the  projecting  spurs — each  fol- 
lowing the  other  in  their  upward  flight,  and  each 
eaten  up  by  the  sun  with  astonishing  rapidity,  as 
they  pass  above  the  shadow  cast  across  the  lower 
half  of  the  valley.  But  as  the  sun  slowly  rises,  the 
valley  is  filled  with  a peculiarly  cool,  gray  haze — 
much  like  our  Indian  Summer  haze  “ doubly  refined.” 

There  are  interspersed  among  meadows  of  rich 
green  grass  in  various  portions  of  the  valley,  groves 
of  trees  of  immense  size  and  wonderful  picturesque- 
ness, not  showing  in  any  place  the  mark  of  an  axe, 
or  anything  to  alter  this  valley  from  what  it  was 
when  the  eye  of  man  first  looked  into  it. 

Wherever  we  are,  we  can’t  but  feel  and  realize 
that  we  are  in  a strange  region,  wholly  unlike  any 
other  place,  in  grandeur,  sublimity  and  beauty — the 
sublimest.  page  in  all  the  great  book  of  Nature — the 
most  remarkable  specimens  of  the  stupendous  ma- 
sonry of  Nature  on  the  globe. 

By  an  act  of  Congress,  this  valley  has  been  taken 
from  the  public  domain  for  a National  Park,  and  ced- 


YOSEMITE  VALLEY. 


417 


ed  to  the  State  of  California,  on  condition  that  it  be 
kept  as  such.  As  it  now  is,  Nature  is  everywhere, 
and  Art  nowhere.  Here  I saw  the  Pono  Indians,  the 
simple  children  as  of  old,  with  their  bows,  and  ar- 
rows with  flint  heads;  their  food  mostly  acorns  pound- 
ed in  a rock  hollowed  out  perhaps  centuries  ago  for 
the  same  purpose;  their  furniture  willow  baskets; 
cooking  by  heating  stones,  and  throwing  them  when 
heated  into  the  water;  their  faces  tattooed  and  paint- 
ed, and  their  enjoyments  nothing  above  those  of  the 
animal.  I hope  the  time  will  never  come  when  Art 
will  be  sent  here  to  improve  Nature. 

This  marvelous  place  invites  every  one  who  possi- 
bly can  to  admire  its  surrounding  cascades  and  moun- 
tain peaks;  its  beautiful  sheets  of  water,  fafling  thou- 
sands of  feet  unbroken;  its  projecting  rocks,  columns 
of  yellow  granite  into  the  valley  rising  perpendicu- 
larly thousands  of  feet.  Imagination  fondly  stops  to 
trace  the  unwritten,  undescribed,  wild  grandeur  of 
that  remarkably  interesting  valley. 

Future  generations  shall  tune  their  song  to  the 
music  of  thy  waterfalls,  and  catch  anew  the  inspira- 
tion of  early  time  in  the  refreshing  shades  of  thy  ro- 
mantic groves  amid  the  wonderful  Nature. 

Every  one  while  visiting  California,  who  possibly 
can,  should  see  this  place.  No  one  will  regret  the 
expense  and  fatigue  in  order  to  do  it.  Having  once 


418 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


seen  this  hiding  retreat  in  the  great  mountains — one 
of  the  very  few  wonders  of  the  world,  and  by  no 
means  the  least — it  will  be  a “joy  forever.”  I would 
recommend  that  you  take  time  enough.  The  inter- 
est increases  with  each  successive  contemplation, 
and  you  will  most  certainly  desire  to  go  again. 


CHAPTER  XLI. 


A VISIT  TO  THE  GEYSERS. 

The  journey  to  and  from  the  big  trees  and  Yose- 
mite  is  the  hardest  one  the  traveler  in  California  is 
called  upon  to  make,  but  will  give  you  pleasure,  sat- 
isfaction and  peace  of  mind  the  rest  of  your  life. 
We  return  to  San  Francisco,  and  after  resting  a few 
days  make  a hasty  excursion  to  the  Geysers.  We 
take  the  steamboat,  pass  over  the  bay,  take  the 
cars,  through  the  productive  and  beautiful  Napa 
Valley,  and  stop  at  Calistoga,  a beautiful  town, 
with  environed  cottages,  surrounded  by  various 
springs,  some  boiling  hot,  others  of  various  degrees 
of  heat,  and  a number  of  sulphur  springs. 

We  took  an  early  ride  next  morning  of  twenty 
miles  to  the  base  of  a great  mountain,  “ Foss  Station,” 
so  named  after  its  owner — no  small  institution  him- 
nelf.  He  is  an  uneducated  New  Englander,  en- 
dowed with  qualities  which  makes  him  a marked 
man.  But  he  harnesses  his  six  horse  team  to  an 
open  wagon,  and  we  are  off,  winding  our  way  up  the 
mountain  five  thousand  feet  high,  till  we  come  to 
a ridge  nearly  two  miles  long  and  perfectly  straight, 
just  possibly  wide  enough  to  let  the  wagon  run  on 


420 


BEYOND  THE  WEST, 


its  edge,  though  to  see  it  ahead  looks  as  if  we  were 
riding  on  an  earth-collared  rail,  appropriately  called 
the  “ Camel’s  Back.”  Down  this  ridge  the  horses 
dash  at  breakneck  speed.  Should  the  wheels  vary 
a foot  either  side,  we  would  go  down  several  hun- 
dred feet  among  the  rocks. 

But  stage  driving  in  this  country  is  truly  a 
science,  and  over  it  we  pass,  and  are  to  descend 
nearly  two  thousand  feet  in  two  miles,  to  the  can- 
yon below.  The  horses  dash  down  upon  the  quick- 
est gait,  and  after  making  thirty-five  short  turns,  a 
failure  at  any  one  of  which  would  have  cost  us  our 
lives,  we  are  just  eleven  minutes  in  coming  down 
to  the  bottom.  Such  rapid  driving  down  such  a 
road  causes  one  to  hold  his  breath  and  throb  with 
excitement,  thinking  that  whoever  takes  it  here- 
after must  be  a fool  or  crazy. 

We  are  now  in  a deep  canyon,  on  either  side  of 
which  the  majestic  mountains  rise  three  thousand 
feet  and  over.  No  mountains  can  exceed  their  sym- 
metrical beauty.  A large  trout  stream  runs  through 
the  canyon,  clear,  cold  and  beautiful.  We  cross  this 
brook  at  right  angles  and  enter  another  canyon, 
which  is  the  home  of  the  Geysers.  The  Geysers 
were  originally  discovered  in  Iceland,  and  the  word 
is  Icelandic,  meaning  driving,  urgent;  because  a 
Geyser  is  ever  throwing  up  water  or  mud  and  wa- 


GEYSER  SPRINGS  HOTEL. 


A VISIT  TO  THE  GEYSERS.  421 

ter.  We  at  ouce  realize  that  we  are  in  a strange 
region;  the  earth  burns  our  feet,  and  the  air  nearly 
suffocates  us.  The  surrounding  atmosphere  is  filled 
with  the  fumes  of  sulphur,  nitric  acid,  and  all  other- 
unpleasant  smells  you  can  imagine.  At  our  very 
feet  a stream  of  alum  boils  out,  but  a few  feet  from 
that  perhaps  is  another  of  nitric  acid,  or  some  kind 
of  salts,  or  soda,  or  pure  sulphur,  or  sulphuric  acid 
or  ammonia. 

A little  distance  off  is  a deep  caldron,  up  which  is 
boiling  a fluid  dark  as  ink.  It  is  appropriately 
called  the  “ Devil’s  Inkstand.”  I made  my  notes  at 
the  time  with  that  ink,  and  have  used  it  since,  just 
as  it  was  taken  from  the  manufactory.  It  is  good 
enough  to  be  patented,  as  compared  with  many 
other  kinds.  Near  this  is  the  “ Witches’  Caldron,” 
quite  large,  demon-like,  black,  boiling,  raging  and 
spouting.  It  is  said  to  be  fathomless. 

Next  we  come  to  the  “ Steamboat,”  where  steam 
spouts  and  roars  high  in  the  air,  like  letting  off  the 
steam  when  a large  steamboat  stops.  A little  dis- 
tance from  this  is  the  “ Devil’s  Tea-kettle,”  where 
the  steam  intervals,  and  where,  as  if  groaning  in 
confinement,  you  almost  expect  to  see  the  demoniac 
spirits  of  the  Evil  One  come  forth  next.  One  seems 
to  be  standing  on  the  threshold  of  the  infernal  re- 
gions. Thrust  a stick  in  the  ground  anywhere  and 
steam  will  rush  out. 


422 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


We  can  compare  the  place  to  nothing  more  ap- 
propriate than  the  very  worst  description  of  hell.  It 
is  known  as  the  “ Pluton  Canyon.”  The  steam,  the 
heat  and  the  offensive  smell  of  the  chemicals  soon 
makes  your  head  grow  dizzy,  and  feel  a shortness 
of  breath,  and  you  must  hasten  away  or  it  would  kill 
you. 

From  what  I had  learned  before  my  visit  to  the 
Geysersi  I had  supposed  they  were  of  volcanic  ori- 
gin, and  that  the  wonderful  heat  was  caused  by  fire, 
perhaps,  far  down  in  the  earth,  arid  that  they  were 
vents,  or  safety  valves,  for  the  internal  fires.  On 
examination,  I was  soon  convinced  that  my  opinions 
were  not  well  founded,  but  were  all  wrong;  that 
they  are  not  at  all  volcanic,  but  Nature’s  great  chem- 
ical laboratory. 

We  found  here  quantities  of  iron,  causing  the 
inky  water,  alum,  ammonia,  nitric  acid,  sulphuric  acid, 
sulphur,  epsom  salts,  and  acid  water  of  various  kinds. 
One,  when  sweetened,  makes  good  lemonade.  An- 
other spring  is  said  to  be  remarkable  in  its  good 
effects  as  an  eye  water. 

Some  of  these  springs  have  an  unusual  degree  of 
heat — from  a hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred  de- 
grees by  the  thermometer.  Fill  these  vast  mountain 
depths  with  these  several  chemicals,  and  let  down 
the  water  upon  them,  and  the  phenomena  which  is 
found  here  will  be  produced. 


V 


WITCH’S  CALDRON— GEYSERS. 


CHAPTER  XLII 


THE  QUICKSILVER  MINE — THE  LARGEST  IN  THE  WORi,i>. 

Presuming,  kind  reader,  that  you  are  yet  a stran- 
ger to  many  of  the  various  interesting  places  and 
scenes  in  wonderful  and  beautiful  California — conse- 
quently, if  you  will  bear  me  company,  we  will  go  to 
the  source  of  theAlmaden  mines,  and  be  fellow-trav- 
ers,  at  least  in  imagination,  and  desire  to  enjoy  our- 
selves— let  us  say  “good  bye  ” to  onr  many  cares,  as 
we  did  to  our  friends,  and  leave  them  behind  us  with 
the  city. 

It  is  one  of  California's  most  beautiful  Summer 
days,  when  we  take  the  stage  on  the  Plaza,  San 
Francisco,  go  rattling  over  pavements  and  rumbling 
over  wood  planking  of  the  streets  southward  toward 
the  beautiful  and  very  productive  Santa  Clara  Val- 
ley. On  we  go,  beyond  the  limits  of  the  city,  roll- 
ing over  hills,  and  then  we  are  traveling  in  the  val- 
ley amid  nature's  prodigality — passing  farms  and 
way-side  houses,  where  we  use  our  best  endeavors  to 
bribe  the  coachman  to  wait  still  longer  for  us  to  buy, 
be  or  steal  those  cherry-cheeked  and  luscious  look- 
ing and  tasting  pears,  which  grow  amid  the  shadows 
of  the  old  Mission  Church.  But  the  superlative  com- 


TUE  QUICKSILVER  MINE. 


425 


mand  from  one  having  authority,  “all  aboard,”  hur- 
ries us  to  our  seats,  and  we  soon  enter  an  avenue  of 
old  poplar  trees,  that  extends  from  Santa  Clara  to 
San  Jose,  which  were  planted  many  years  ago  by 
and  for  the  convenience  of  the  two  Missions. 

On  either  side  of  this  avenue  are  environed  taste- 
ful cottages,  flourishing  farms,  orchards  laden  with 
more  tempting  fruit  than  our  mother  Eve  had  to 
tempt  Adam  with,  which  are  supplied  with  water 
from  artesian  wells. 

Arriving  in  San  Jose,  we  find  a very  pleasant  and 
interesting  agricultural  city,  with  unusual  tempta- 
tions of  fruit,  trailing  vines  and  flowers;  one  of  the 
neatest,  best  dressed-up  places  we  had  visited.  It 
seemed  to  wear  Sunday  clothes  every  day.  Remain- 
ing here  over  night,  we  have  a very  interesting  ride 
of  fourteen  miles  next  morning,  through  an  ever 
green  grove  of  oaks  and  broad-spreading  branches 
of  the  sycamore  trees,  till  we  find  ourselves  partaking 
heartily  of  the  delicious  waters  of  the  soda  spring* 
at  the  romantic  place  of  New  Almaden,  about  sixty- 
five  miles  from  San  Francisco.  It  is  of  a wild  and 
weired  appearance;  looks  as  though  there  might 
“some  good  come  out  of  Nazireth,”  from  among  the 
broken  and  piled  up  mountains. 

Up  over  the  smaller  hills,  three  miles  from  the 
town,  are  the  mines,  nine  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
perpendicular  height. 


426  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

This  mine  has  a history  of  its  own,  which  is  some 
what  curious.  It  was  known  for  ages  by  the  Indi- 
ans, who  worked  it  for  tbe  paint  it  contained,  with 
which  they  ornamented  their  persons;  and  for  that 
purpose  it  had  become  a valuable  article  of  exchange 
with  other  tribes  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 

Some  twenty-five  years  ago,  a Mexican  cavalry  of- 
ficer met  some  Indians  painted  with  vermilion,  which 
be  knew  they  had  obtained  from  the  cinnabar,  or 
quicksilver  ore.  He  succeeded,  by  bribery,  to  get 
the  Indians  to  show  him  the  place.  The  mines  are 
on  a cross  range  of  the  coast  range  of  mountains. 

The  Indians  had  dug  over  sixty  feet  into  the  moun- 
tain, when  white  man  first  saw  it,  with  their  wood- 
en sticks,  probably  the  work  of  centuries.  Quite  a 
number  of  skeletons  were  found  in  a passage  where 
life  had  been  lost  by  the  caving  in  of  the  rocks  and 
earth.  It  was  supposed  for  some  time  that  the  ore 
contained  gold,  or  at  least  silver,  and  was  treated 
accordingly,  without  success,  when  a Mexican  made 
a small  smelting  furnace,  filled  it  with  the  ore  and 
applied  fire  at  the  bottom,  when  he  soon  found  by 
the  pernicious  effects  of  the  fumes  on  his  person, 
that  he  had  wholly  mistaken  the  composition  of  the 
ore — that  he  had  caught  a tiger — that  it  was  quick- 
silver ore. 

Upon  this  discovery,  a large  English  and  Mexican 


THE  QUICKSILVER  MINE.  4z( 

company  was  organized  to  work  the  mine.  They 
commenced  operations  on  a large  scale  in  1847,  and 
expended  up  to  June,  1850,  Three  Hundred  and  High 
ty-Seven  Thousand  Dollars  more  than  their  receipts ! 
During  that  year,  a new  process  was  discovered  by 
one  of  the  workmen,  a blacksmith,  which  proved  to 
be  a successful  treatment  of  the  ore — when  the  com- 
pany constructed  fourteen  smelting  furnaces  upon 
the  same  principle. 

The  process  of  extracting  the  quicksilver  from  the 
cinnabar  is  quite  simple.  The  company  have  a brick 
building  two  hundred  feet  long,  with  a furnace  in 
one  end,  which  is  filled  with  cinnabar  and  covered 
securely  up.  A fire  is  then  made  in  the  furnace, 
from  which,  through  a perforated  wall  of  brick  on 
the  opposite  side,  the  fumes,  which  are  quicksilver  in 
the  form  of  vapor,  pass  into  the  condensing  rooms. 

There  are  thirteen  in  number,  divided  by  thick 
walls,  each  room  eighteen  feet  high  and  fifteen  wide, 
with  an  opening  of  a foot  the  whole  length  of  the 
partition  at  the  top  of  one,  and  at  the  bottom  of  the 
other.  Through  these  openings,  the  fumes  alter 
nately  going  over  one  wall  and  under  the  next, 
through  all  the  thirteen  compartments,  so  that  when 
it  reaches  the  last  room  it  is  wholly  condensed,  and 
the  floor  being  on  an  incline,  the  quicksilver  runs  to 
the  lower  end  of  the  room,  thence  through  a pipe 


428  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

into  a trough  that  extends  the  whole  length  of  the 
building,  where  it  empties  into  a large  circular  cal- 
dron. From  this  it  is  dipped  into  strong  iron  flasks, 
in  quantities  of  seventy-five  pounds.  Each  flask 
must  have  an  iron  cap,  stongly  screwed  on;  and  they 
must  not  be  full,  or  the  quicksilver  will,  on  exposure 
to  the  sun,  ooze  through  the  iron.  It  is  now  ready 
for  market,  and  is  sent  all  over  the  world;  some  goes 
to  China,  and  comes  back  in  vermilion  paint. 

This  greatest  of  quicksilver  mines  gives  the  metal 
that  enables  the  miners  on  the  Pacific  Coast  to  gath 
er  together  such  large  amounts  of  gold  and  silver, 
to  strengthen  all  the  avenues  of  trade.  After  the 
very  large  expenditure  the  company  made,  the  mine 
has  returned  it  to  them  ten-fold,  and  is  now  the  best 
paying  mine  on  the  Coast.  The  ore  bed  is  about 
two  miles  wide,  and  the  ore  contains  from  fifteen  to 
forty  per  cent,  of  metal.  The  profits  of  the  company 
are  now  half  a million  dollars  annually;  while  their 
expenses  are  about  half  a million  dollars. 

Now,  let  us  go  up  to  the  mine,  nine  hundred  and 
forty  feet  above  the  base  of  the  mountain  and  the 
reducing  works.  The  distance  is  a mile,  and  yet  un- 
der a burning  sun,  to  travel  it  on  foot,  one  would  be 
willing  to  make  an  affidavit  that  it  was  nearer  three. 
Having  arrived  at  the  mine,  we  pause  to  look  around 
us.  For  a very  long  sweep  of  distance,  nothing  is 


THE  QUICKSILVER  MINE. 


429 


seen  but  the  tops  of  successive  mountain  ranges, 
with  some  towering  sentinel  peaks,  looking  down  up- 
on the  beautiful  Valley  of  the  San  Juan,  with  the 
Coast  Range  nearly  lost  in  the  distance.  About  us 
are  immense  piles  of  debris,  and  ore  from  the  mine, 
aud  a settlement  hard  by  composed  of  the  families 
and  lodging  cabins  of  the  miners. 

The  process  of  working  the  mine  has  been  truth- 
fully described  by  another,  L.  A.  Downer,  that  wo 
introduce  to  the  reader.  In  1850  a tunnel  was  com- 
menced in  the  side  of  the  mountain,  in  a line  with 
the  yard,  and  which  has  already  been  carried  to  the 
distance  of  one  thousand  one  huudred  feet,  by  ten 
feet  wide  and  ten  feet  high,  to  the  crown  of  the  arch, 
which  is  strongly  roofed  with  heavy  timber  through- 
out its  whole  length.  Through  this  the  rail  track 
passes,  the  car  receiving  the  ore  as  it  is  brought  on 
the  backs  of  carriers  from  the  depths  below,  or  from 
the  hights  above. 

The  track  being  free,  we  will  now  take  a seat  on 
the  car  and  enter  the  dark  space.  Not  an  object  is 
visible -save  the  faint  torchlight  at  the  extreme  end, 
and  a chilling  dampness  seizes  on  the  frame,  so  sud- 
denly bereft  of  warmth  and  sunshine.  This  sensa- 
tion does  not  coutinue  as  we  descend  into  the  sub- 
terranean cavern  below.  And  now  comes  the  won- 
ders, as  well  as  the  dangers,  of  the  undertaking. 


430 


BEYOND  THE  WEST- 


the  light  of  a torch,  we  pass  through  a damp  pas- 
sage of  some  length,  a sudden  turn  bringing  us  into 
a sort  of  vestibule,  where,  in  a niche  at  one  side,  is 
placed  a rude  shrine  of  the  tutelary  saint,  or  protec- 
tress of  the  mine,  ( Nucet'i  Senora  de  Guadalupe,)  be- 
fore which  lighted  candles  are  kept  constantly  burn- 
ing, and  before  entering  upon  the  labors  of  the  day 
or  night,  each  man  visits  this  shrine  in  devotion. 
You  descend  a perpendicular  ladder,  formed  by 
notches  cut  into  a solid  log,  perhaps  twelve  feet; 
then  turn  and  pass  a narrow  corner,  where  a fright- 
ful gulf  seems  yawning  to  receive  you.  Carefully 
threading  your  way  over  the  narrowest  of  footpaths, 
you  turn  into  another  passage,  dark  as  night,  to 
descend  into  a flight  of  steps  former!  in  the  side  of 
a cave,  tread  over  some  loose  stones,  turn  around, 
step  over  arches,  down  into  another  passage  that 
leads  into  many  dark  and  intricate  windings  and 
descendings,  or  chambers  supported  by  but  a col- 
umn of  earh;  now  stepping  this  way,  then  that, 
twisting  and  turning,  all  tending  down,  down  to 
where,  through  the  darkness  of  midnight,  One  can 
discern  the  faint  glimmer  which  shines  like  Shake- 
speare’s good  deeds  in  a naughty  world,  and  which  it 
seems  impossible  one  can  ever  reach. 

We  were  shown  a map  giving  the  subterranean 
topography  of  this  mine;  and  truly,  the  crossings 


! 


THE  QUICKSILVER  MINE.  431 

and  recrossings,  the  windings  and  intricacies  of  the 
labyrinthine  passages  could  only  be  compared  to 
the  streets  of  a dense  city,  while  nothing  short  of  the 
clue  furnished  Thesus  by  Ariadne,  would  insure  the 
safe  return  into  day  of  the  unfortunate  pilgrim  who 
should  enter  without  a guide.  The  miners  are  all 
Mexicans,  and  have  named  the  different  passages  af- 
ter their  saints,  and  run  them  off  as  readily  as  we  do 
the  streets  of  a city;  and  after  exhausting  the  names 
of  all  the  saints  in  the  calendar,  have  commenced 
on  different  animals — one  of  which  is  not  inaptly 
called  El  Elefante.  Some  idea  of  the  extent  and 
number  of  these  passages  may  be  formed  when  we 
state,  that  sixty  pounds  of  candles  are  used  by  the 
workmen  in  twenty-four  hours.  Another  turn  brings 
Us  upon  some  men  at  work;  one  stands  upon  a single 
plank  high  above  us  in  an  arch,  and  he  is  drilling 
into  the  rock  above  him,  for  the  purpose  of  placing 
a charge  of  powder.  How  he  can  maintain  his  equi- 
librium is  a mystery  to  us:  yet  no  accident  of  con- 
sequence has  as  yet  happened  in  the  mine. 

These  men  work  in  companies — one  set  by  night, 
auother  by  day,  alternating  week  about.  These  un- 
derground miners  are  short-lived,  showing  conclu* 
sively  how  essential  light  and  air  are  to  animal  as 
well  as  vegetable  life.  With  a sigh  and  a shudder 
we  step  aside  to  allow  a set  of  laborers  to  pass. 


/ 


BEYOND  THE  WE>T. 


t 


4:3  2 

There  they  come  up  and  up  from  almost  intermin- 
able depths;  each  one  as  he  passes,  panting  and 
puffirg  and  wheezing  like  a high-pressure  steamboat, 
as  with  straining  nerve  and  quivering  muscle  he 
staggers  under  the  load  which  nearly  bends  him  doub- 
le. ’\  h ise  are  the  U nateras,  carrying  the  ore  from  the 
mine  to  deposit  it  in  the  cars.  The  ore  is  placed  in 
u flat  leather  bag,  with  a band  two  inches  wide  that 
passes  around  the  forehead,  the  weight  resting  along 
the  shoulders  and  spine.  Two  hundred  pounds  of 
rough  ore  are  thus  borne  up  flight  after  flight  of  per- 
pendicular steps — now  winding  through  deep  cav- 
erns, or  threading  the  most  tortuous  passages;  again 
ascending  passages  that  have  a poor  apology  for 
steps,  where  one  unwary  step  would  plunge  him  be- 
yond a possibility  of  human  life.  Not  always,  how- 
ever, do  they  ascend;  they  sometimes  come  from 
above,  yet  we  should  judge  the  danger  and  toil  tu  be 
nearly  as  great  in  one  case  as  in  the  other.  Thirty 
trips  will  these  men  make  in  one  day  from  the  low- 
est depths. 

We  will  now  follow  these  hardy  Mexicans,  as  they 
load  the  car  with  the  contents  of  their  -acks, and  run 
after  it  with  shouts  of  laughter,  as  the  change  from 
the  mine  to  the  warm  sunshine  is  most  inspiriting; 
and  when  they  have  reached  the  end  of  the  track 
they  handle  the  great  lumps  of  ore  scarce  lv  Tcithout 


I LIE  v^UUJKfijl  LVEli  MINE.  483 

an  effort.  The  ore  deposited,  another  set  of  labor- 
ers eDgage  in  separating  the  large  lumps,  and  in  re- 
ducing them  to  a small  size  for  the  furnace. 

These  men  receive  wages  that  seem  to  bo  just  and 
liberal,  yet  such  is  their  improvidence,  that  no  mat- 
ter how  much  they  earn,  they  are  no  better  off  at 
the  end  of  the  month  than  they  were  at  the  begin- 
ning. The  Mexicans  are  the  most  impracticable  peo- 
ple in  the  world — going  on  as  their  ancestors  did  be- 
fore them — firmly  believing  in  the  axiom  that  “suf- 
ficient unto  the  day  is  the  evil  thereof.”  What  the 
production  of  this  mine  will  be  is  impossible  to  fore- 
see; but  if  quicksilver  maintains  its  present  high 
price,  this  company  no  doubt  will  have  a fortune. 

“The  interesting  dedicatory  ceremonial  of ‘Bless- 
ing the  Mined  is  a custom  of  long  standing  in  min- 
ing Catholic  countries,  especially  among  those  peo- 
ple who  speak  the  Spanish  language.  Without  it, 
workmen  would  feel  a religious  dread,  and  conse- 
quent l\  a timid  reluctance  to  enter  upon  their  daily 
labors,  lest  some  accidental  mishap  should  befall 
them  from  such  an  omission.  After  this  has  been 
duly  performed,  great  cire  is  taken  to  erect  a shrine, 
be  it  ever  so  rude,  at  some  convenient  point  within 
the  mine,  to  some  favorite  tutelary  saint  or  protec- 
tress, whose  benediction  they  evoke.  Before  this 
shrine  each  workman  devoutlv  kneels,  crosses  him* 


434  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

self,  and  repeats  his  Ave  Maria,  or  Paternoster,  pri 
or  to  entering  upon  the  duties  and  engagements 
of  the  day.  At  this  spot  candles  are  kept  burning 
both  by  day  and  night,  and  the  place  is  one  of  sa- 
cred awe  o all  good  Catholics.  The  blessing  and 
dedication  of  a nine  is,  consequently,  an  era  of  im- 
portance, and  one  not  lightly  to  be  passed  over  or 
indifferently  celebrated. 

“ On  the  morning  of  the  day  set  apart  for  this  cer- 
emony, the  Mexican  children  flock  in  from  the  sur 
rounding  country,  in  anticipation  of  a general  holi- 
day, to  begin  at  an  early  hour.  Of  oourse,  at  suet 
a time,  the  proprietor  sends  out  invitations  to  those 
guests  he  is  particularly  desirous  should  be  present 
to  do  honor  to  the  occasion.  Arriving  in  procession 
at  the  entrance  of  the  mine,  the  Catholic  curate  per 
forms  mass,  and  formally  blesses  the  mine,  and  all 
persons  present,  and  all  those  who  may  work  in  it. 
After  the  ceremonies  outside  are  concluded,  they  all 
repair  to  the  inside  of  the  mine,  where  the  Father 
proceeds  to  sprinkle  holy  water  and  to  bless  it.” 

After  such  dedicatory  services,  the  miner  has  but 
little  fear  that  anything  dangerous  will  overtake 
him,  and  he  toils  on  fearlessly,  with  the  utmost  confi- 
dence that  “whatever  is,  is  right;”  whether  it  be 
Mabomedan  idolatry,  or  the  noonday  light  of  true 
Chrstianity. 


THE  QUICKSILVER  MINE.  435 

THE  MAMMOTH  CAVE. 

As  this  remarkable  curiosity  is  connected  with  a 
good  road,  from  San  Andress  to  the  Big  Trees,  here- 
tofore described,  the  traveler  will  have  but  little 
trouble  when  visiting  them,  to  also  improve  the  op- 
portunity to  see  this  cave — second,  perhaps,  in  inter- 
est to  none  on  the  Continent — its  wonderful  charac- 
ter, its  many  remarkable  features,  i ts  great  magnitude 
a id  wonderful  formations,  every  visitor  to  the  Big 
Trees  ought  to  see. 

When  nature  steps  out  of  her  usual  course  to 
make  anything  v*  ry  beautiful,  or  very  wonderful, 
it  is  not  unreasonable  to  expect  that  men  and  wo- 
men generally  will  be  gratefully  willing  to  go  out  of 
their  way  to  see  it.  It  is  true,  that  many  men  love 
money  more  than  nature;  others  love  nature  more 
than  money;  and  yet  often  feel  too  poor,  almost,  to 
gratify  that  love.  Others  have  become  so  much  ha- 
bituated to  the  same  stool  in  the  counting-house,  the 
same  old  chair  in  the  office,  the  same  familiar  stand- 
ing-place in  the  store,  and  the  same  spot  in  the  work- 
shop, mine  or  field,  that,  nothing  short  of  an  earth- 
quake or  revolution  could  induce  them  to  turn  aside 
, from  the  well-worn  highway  of  business  habit,  to 
see  anything  beyond  themselves  and  their  business 
routine.  In  their  eyes  it  is  the  Alpha  and  Omega 
of  life — the  beginning  and  end  of  all  things;  yea,  of 


436  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

life  itself.  Unfortunately,  habit  unfits  them  for  any 
thing  beyond  the  man-machine. 

The  blue  sky,  the  bright  sunshine,  the. flower-car- 
peted earth,  the  foliage-clothed  trees,  the  moss-grown 
caverns,  the  mighty  hills,  or  the  forest-form  harps 
touched  by  the  fingers  of  the  wind  and  playing  their 
grand  old  anthems  of  praise,  have  an  inviting  and 
suggestive  voice  that  man  was  made  for  enjoyment 
as  well  as  duty;  for  happiness  as  well  as  business; 
and  the  probability  is  apparent,  that  the  godlike  fa- 
cilities bestowed  upon  him, enabling  him  to  hold  com- 
munion with  the*  beautiful  and  ennobling,  the  sub- 
lime or  wonderful,  would  not  have  been  if  man  were 
not  expected  to  be  something  loftier  than  a mere 
humdrum  business  machine. 

Nature  sometimes  turns  over  some  new  and  won- 
derful pages  in  her  glorious  old  volume,  and  discov- 
ers to  men  such  morsels  as  the  groves  of  mammoth 
trees,  the  Yo  Semite,  the  Geysers,  the  Natural  Bridg- 
es and  Caves,  and  more  recently  the  Alabaster  Cave 
of  El  Dorado  Couuty. 

On  such  occasions,  there  are  many  persons  who 
will  find  time  to  open  their  sight-seeing  eyes,  and 
take  a glimpse,  if  only  to  say  they  have  seen  them, 
lest  they  should  be  deemed  behind  the  age,  or  out  of 
fashion;  but  there  are  others  again,  and  their  name 
is  legion,  who  admire,  yea,  almost  worship,  the  beau- 


THE  MAMMOTH  CAVE.  437 

tiful,  the  grand,  the  astonishing,  from  the  handful  of 
soil  that  put  out  so  many  varieties  of  rare  and  fra- 
grant flowers  and  luscious  fruits,  to  the  vast  cathe- 
dral-formed arches,  and  intricate  draperies  of  stone, 
produced  by  chemical  agencies  and  mystical  combi- 
nations in  one  or  more  of  nature’s  great  labaratories 
beneath  the  surface  of  the  earth.  With  the  latter 
class,  it  is  always  a pleasure  to  be  in  company,  as  a 
pleasure  shared  is  always  doubled ; besides,  kindred 
spirits  nave  a happy  faculty  of  reproduction  denied 
to  others. 

This  cave  was  accidentally  aiscovereu  oy  sumo 
men  a few  years  ago,  employed  to  excavate  a place 
for  a lime  kiln  in  El  Dorado  Yalley,  along  the  turn- 
rn;t«l;  when,  upon  the  removal  of  loose 

rock,  a ' n aperture  was  visible,  sufficiently  large 
them  to  enter.  They  procured  candles,  and  be- 
gan at  once  their  explorations,  and  soon  found  that 
California  had  another  remarkable  wonder — a very 
large  and  beautiful  cave,  both  curious  interest- 
ing. On  our  first  entrance,  we  descended  about  fif- 
teen feet  gradually  to  the  centre  of  a room  which  is 
one  hundred  by  thirty  feet.  At  the  north  end  there  is 
the  most  magnificent  pulpit,  in  the  Episcopal  Church 
6tyle,  that  man  has  ever  seen.  It  seems  that  it  is, 
and  should  he,  called  the  “ Holy  of  Holies.'1  It  is 
completed  with  the  most  beautiful  draperv  of  alabas- 


438 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


ter  sterites,  varying  from  all  colors,  from  white  to 
pink-red,  overhanging  the  beholder.  Immediately 
under  the  pulpit  there  is  a beautiful  lake  of  water, 
extending  to  an  unknown  distance.  We  thought 
this  all;  but,  to  our  great  admiration,  on  arriving  at 
the  centre  of  the  first  room,  we  saw  an  entrance  to 
an  inner  chamber,  still  more  splendid,  two  hundred 
by  one  hundred  feet,  with  the  most  beautiful  alabas- 
ter overhanging  in  every  possible  shape  of  drapery. 
Here  stands  magnitude,  giving  the  instant  impres- 
sion of  a power  above  man,  grandeur  that  defies  de- 
cay, antiquity  that  tells  of  ages  unnumbered,  beau- 
ty that  the  touch  of  time  makes  more  beautiful,  use 
exhaustless  for  the  service  of  men,  strength  imper- 
ishable as  the  globe,  the  monument  of  eternity,  the 
truest  earthly  emblem  of  that  everlasting,  unchanga- 
ble  and  irresistible  Majesty,  by  whom  and  for  whom 
all  things  were  made. 

As  soon  as  this  interesting  discovery  was  circula- 
ted abroad,  the  people  flocked  in  from  all  the  min- 
ing settlements  to  visit  the  newly  discovered  cave. 
The  owner  began  immediately  to  make  accommoda- 
tions and  prepare  it  for  the  reception  of  the  public, 
by  building  a hotel  and  placing  a large  number  of 
lamps,  at  different  points,  to  illuminate  the  various 
apartments. 

' the  entrance  is  a door,  which  is  carefully  lo*ck- 


} 


'J  H fcl  MAMMOTH  CAVE.  439 

ed  when  no  one  is  within.  Upon  entering  we  de- 
scend a few  steps,  and  enter  a room  twenty-five  feet 
in  length,  by  about  twenty  feet  in  width,  and  from 
six  to  twelve  feet  in  height.  Here  is  a desk,  upon 
which  is  a book — “ Coral  Cave  Register.” 

This  book  was  presented  by  some  gentlemen  who 
believed  that  “ Coral  Cave”  would  be  the  most  ap- 
propriate name,  as  a greater  proportion  of  the  orna- 
ments are  stalactites,  being  like  beautifully  frozen 
mosses,  or  fine  coral.  Passing  along  another  pas- 
sage, we  come  to  the  enchantment.  Before  us  is  a 
broad,  oddly-shaped  and  low-roofed  chamber,  about 
one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  length  by  seventy 
feet  in  breadth,  and  ranging  from  four  to  twenty  teet 
in  height.  Bright,  coral-like  stalactites  hang  down 
in  irregular  rows  and  in  almost  every  variety  of 
shape  and  shade — from  milk  white  to  cream  color — 
standing  in  inviting  relief  to  the  dark  arches  above, 
and  the  frowning  butraces  on  either  side;  while  low, 
broad  redges,  some  almost  black,  others  of  a reddish 
brown,  stretch  from  either  side,  between  which  the 
space  is  ornamented  with  peculiar  coloring  that  re- 
sembles a grotesq  kind  of  graining.  Descending 
toward  the  lift,  we  approach  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful stalactite  groupesin  this  apartment. 

Some  of  these  are  fine  pendants — no  larger  than 
pipe-stems — tubular,  and  from  two  to  five  feet  in 


410  beyond  the  west. 

length.  Three  or  four  there  were  over  eight  feet 
long;  but  the  early  admitted  Vandals  destroyed  or 
carried  them  off.  Others  resemble  the  ears  of  white 
elephants,  (if  such  an  animal  could  be  known  to  nat- 
ural history,)  while  others  again  present  the  appear- 
ance of  long  and  slender  cones,  inverted.  By  exam- 
ining this  and  other  groups  more  closely,  we  ascer- 
tain that  at  their  base  are  numerous  coral-like  ex- 
crescences of  great  beauty;  here,  like  petrified  moss, 
brilliant  and  almost  transparent;  there,  a pretty  fun- 
gus, tipped  with  diamonds ; yonder,  like  miniature 
trees,  which,  to  accommodate  themselves  to  circum- 
stances, have  grown  with  their  tops  downward.  In 
other  places  are  apparent  fleeces  of  the  finest  Merino 
wool  or  floss  silk.  Leaving  these,  by  turning  to  the 
right,  we  can  ascend  a ladder  and  see  other  combi- 
nations of  such  mysterious  beauty  as  to  highly  gratify 
and  repay  us.  Here  is  the  loftiest  part  of  the  cham- 
ber. Leaving  this,  you  arrive  at  a large  statagmite 
that  resembles  a tying-post  for  horses,  and  which 
* has  been  dignified  or  mystified  by  such  names  as 
“ Lot's  Wife,”  (if  so,  she  was  a very  dwarf  of  a woman, 
as  its  altitude  is  but  four  feet  and  two  inches,  and 
its  circumference  at  the  base,  three  feet  and  one 
inch,)  “Hercules  Club,”  “Brodignag's  fore-finger,”  &c. 

Passing  on  over  a small  rise  of  apparently  snow- 
c >ngealed  or  petrified  floor,  we  look  down  into  an 


44  ! BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

or  comparisons  with  which  to  describe  this  magnifi- 
cent spot.  From  the  beginning  we  have  felt  that  we 
were  almost  presumptuous  in  attempting  to  portray 
these  wonderful  scenes;  but,  in  the  hope  of  induc- 
ing others  to  see  with  their  natural  eyes,  the  sights 
that  we  have  seen,  and  enjoy  the  pleasure  that  we 
have  enjoyed,  we  entered  upon  the  task,  even  though 
inadequately,  of  giving  an  outline — nothing  more. 
Here,  however,  we  confess  ourself  entirely  at  a loss. 

Miss  Needham,  a young  lady  visitor,  has  succeed- 
ed in  giving  an  admirable  idea  of  this  sublime  sight 
in  an  excellent  drawing  made  upon  the  spot,  which 
we  have  engraved  and  herewith  present  to  the  read- 
er. The  sublime  grandeur  of  this  imposing  sight, 
fills  the  soul  with  astonishment,  that  swells  up  from 
within  as  though  its  purpose  was  to  make  the  be- 
holder speechless  ; the  language  of  silence  being  the 
most  fitting  and  impressive,  when  puny  man  treads 
the  great  halls  of  nature,  the  more  surely  to  lead 
him  humbly  from  these,  to  the  untold  glory  of  the 
Infinite  One,  who  devised  the  laws  and  superintend- 
ed the  processes  which  brought  such  wonders  into 
being.  After  the  mind  seems  prepared  to  examine 
the  gorgeous  spectacle  somewhat  in  detail,  we  look 
Upon  the  ceiling,  if  we  may  so  speak,  which  is  en- 
tirely covered  with  myriads  of  the  most  beautiful 
Btone  icicles — long,  large  and  beautiful.  Between 


THE  MAMMOTH  CAVE.  443 

those  are  squares  or  pannels,  the  mulli-ons  or  bars  of 
which  seem  to  be  formed  of  diamonds  ; while  the 
pannels  themselves  resemble  the  frosting  upon  win- 
dows in  the  very  depths  of  winter — and  even  these 
are  of  many  colors — that  most  prevailing  being  of  a 
light,  pinkish  cream.  Moss,  coral,  floss,  wool,  trees 
and  many  other  forms,  adorn  the  interstices  between 
the  larger  of  the  stalactites.  At  the  farther  end  is 
one  vast  mass  of  rock,  resembling  congealed  water, 
apparently  formed  into  many  falls  and  little  hillocks, 
in  maDy  instances  connected  by  pillars  with  the  roof 
above.  Deep  down  and  underneath  this  is  the  en- 
trance by  which  we  reached  this  chamber. 

At  our  right  stands  a large  stalagmite,  dome-shap- 
ed at  the  top,  and  covered  with  beautiful,  undulating 
and  wavy  folds.  Every  imaginary  gracefulness  pos- 
sible, to  the  most  curiously  arranged  drapery,  is  here 
visible,  “carved  in  alabaster,”  by  the  Great  Archi- 
tect of  the  Universe. 

This  is  named  the  “Pulpit.”  In  order  to  exam 
ine  this  object  with  more  minuteness,  a temporary 
platform  has  been  erected,  which,  although  detrac- 
tive of  the  general  effect  in  our  opinion,  affords  a 
nearer  and  better  view  of  all  these  remarkable  ob- 
jects in  detail. 

This  spectacle,  as  well  as  the  others,  being  bril- 
liantly illuminated,  the  scene  is  very  imposing,  and 


444  BEYOND  THE  WEsT. 

reminds  one  of  the  highly  wrought  pictures  of  the 
imagination,  painted  in  such  charming  language  and 
with  such  good  effect  in  such  words  as  the  “ Arabia 
an  Knights.” 

Other  apartments,  known  as  the  “Picture  Galle- 
ry,” &c.,  might  detain  us  longer ; but,  as  they  bear 
a striking  resemblance  in  many  respects  to  other 
scenes  already  described,  we  must  take  our  leave,  in 
the  hope  that  we  have  said  enough  to  enlist  an  in* 
creased  attention  in  favor  of  this,  another  California 
wonder. 

The  traveler  will  find  the  railway  ride  from  Sac- 
ramento to  Falsom  a pleasant  one  ; from  there,  by 
stage,  ten  miles  over  rolling  hills,  with  picturesque 
scenery,  to  the  cave  ; the  guides  obliging,  and  the 
place  one  of  the  most  remarkable  and  imposing,  full 
of  Nature's  wondrous  works.  We  say  to  every  vis- 
itor in  the  State,  “ Go  and  see  it.”  A place  of  such 
unusual  beauty  and  grandeur,  is,  indeed,  “a  joy  for- 
ever.” 

As  the  travel  is  now  made  quick  and  easy,  from 
the  East  to  the  Pacific,  people  will  doubtless  visit 
this  land  of  wonders  by  thousands  yearly,  and  see 
with  their  own  eyes,  the  remarkable  places  we  have 
described  in  this  brief  work.  We  should  like  to 
Bjive  the  various  routes  to  them,  hut  they  are  almost 
as  numerous  as  the  different  roads  that  Christians 


THE  MAMMOTH  CAVE.  445 

take  to  their  expected  Heaven.  We  have  given  the 
principal  ones  only;  and  after  having  noticed  the 
following  unanswerable  argument  of  a celebrated 
divine  to  the  uncharitable  members  of  his  church, 
shall  close  our  description  of  them,  and  leave  many 
more  wonderful  places,  of  which  this  country  has  so 
many,  unnoticed : 

“There  was  a Christian  brother,  a Presbyteri- 
an, who  walked  up  to  the  gate  of  the  New  Jeru- 
salem and  knocked  for  admittance,  when  an  angel 
who  was  in  charge,  looked  down  from  above  and  in- 
quired what  he  wanted.  ‘To  come  in/  was  the  an- 
swer. ‘Who  and  what  are  you?'  ‘A  Presbyteri- 
an/ ‘Sit  on  that  seat  there/  This  was  on  the  out- 
side of  t-hej-gate,  and  the  good  man  feared  that  he 
had  been  refused  admittance.  Presently  arrived  aL 
Episcopalian,  then  a Baptist,  then  a Methodist,  and 
so  on,  until  a representative  from  every  Christian 
sect  had  made  his  appearance,  and  were  alike  order- 
ed to  take  a seat  outside.  Before  they  had  long 
been  there,”  continued  the  good  man,  “a  loud  an- 
them broke  forth,  rolling  and  swelling  upon  the  air, 
from  the  choir  within,  when  those  outside  immedi- 
ately joined  in  the  chorus.  4 Oh  P said  the  angel, 
as  he  opened  wide  the  gate,  ‘I  did  not  know  you 
by  your  names  ; but  you  have  all  learned  one  song. 
Come  in — come  in  ! The  name  you  bear,  or  the  way 


4 16  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

by  which  you  come,  is  of  little  consequence,  com- 
pared with  your  being  here  at  all.5  ” 

“ Where  rose  the  mountains,  there  to  him  were  friends; 
Where  rolled  the  ocean,  thereon  was  his  horne^ 

Where  a blue  sky  and  glowing  clime  extends 
He  had  the  passion  and  the  power  to  roam. 

The  desert,  forest,  cavern,  breaker’s  foam, 

Were  unto  him  companionship.” 

As  there  are  many  who  throng  the  highway  of 
elevating  and  refining  pleasure,  -in  Spring  and  Sum- 
mer, to  feast  the  eye  and  enjoy  the  beautiful,  we  are 
ready  to  say,  but  few  countries  possess  more  to  ad- 
mire and  improve  the  knowledge  of  the  traveler, 
than  California.  ETer  towering  mountains  on  either 
side,  with  her  wide-spread  valleys  between,  carpet- 
ed most  of  the  year  with  flowers ; her  remarkable 
waterfalls ; her  foaming  mountain  cataracts ; her 
rushiDg  rivers ; her  beautiful  lakes  ; her  heavily 
timbered  forests;  her  gently  rolling  hills,  covered 
with  blooming  shrubs,  and  trees,  and  wild  flowers  ; 
her  deposits  of  the  precious  metals  ; her  mines  of 
agricultural  wealth  contained  in  the  soil ; her  Mount 
Diabalo  ; her  Mount  Shasta  ; her  great  natural  caves 
and  ridges ; her  mammoth  trees  ; her  geysers  ; her 
quicksilver  mines;  her  inspiring,  picturesque  Yo 
Semite,  give  a voiceless  invitation  to  the  traveler  to 
look  upon  her  and  admire. 

When  the  Committee  of  Wavs  and  Means  reports 


THE  MAMMOTH  CAVE.  447 

itself,  financially  and  otherwise,  prepared  to  under- 
take the  continental  journey — in  order  to  fully  enjoy 
it,  we  must  leave  the  “ peck  of  troubles/7  and  the 
thousand  and  one  things  entirely  behind — have  none 
but  genial-hearted  companions,  a sufficient  supply 
of  personal  patience,  good  humor,  forbearance,  and 
not  be  in  a hurry. 


CHAPTER  XLIII. 

BIRD’S-EYE  VIEW  OP  CALIFORNIA. 

We  are  now  in  about  the  center  of  the  State,  north 
and  south,  returning  from  the  remarkable  place  de- 
scribed in  the  previous  chapter,  and  stand  on  the 
Nevadas  surveying  this  strange  country.  To  the  east 
lie  the  extended  alkali  deserts,  no  doubt  once  the 
bottom  of  an  inland  sea,  thrown  up  with  this  moun- 
tain range  at  some  distant  period  by  volcanic  pres- 
sure. 

As  we  look  north  and  south  we  see  the  ridges  and 
the  broken  peaks  along  which  many  volcanoes  once 
blazed.  Here  we  have  most  plainly  an  immense 
country  of  volcanic  origin,  now  sustaining  remarka- 
ble forests,  without  which  the  great  railroad  could 
not  have  been  built. 

But  we  are  going  west.  We  see  a belt  twenty 
miles  wide  from  where  we  are  of  magnificent  forests. 
In  this  belt  are  the  sugar  pines,  some  nearly  three 
hundred  feet  high,  and  the  “Big  Trees.”  No  finer 
timber  than  that  which  grows  on  this  strip  can  be 
found.  Next  to  this  is  a belt  some  forty  miles  wide, 
beginning  in  British  Columbia,  which  is  known  as 
the  Golden  Belt,  and  is  also  celebrated  as  the  most 


BIRD’S-EYE  VIEW  OP  CALIFORNIA  449 

wonderful  fruit-bearing  region.  Here  the  peach,  the 
pear,  the  apple,  the  cherry,  the  nectarine,  the  al- 
mond, the  pomegranate  and  the  fir  yield  most  abun- 
dantly. Here  also  the  grapes  grow  and  bear 
abundantly — almost  beyond  belief.  We  believe  a 
more  remarkable  belt  of  the  same  extent  cannot  be 
found  anywhere  on  the  face  of  nature. 

As  we  go  through  these  belts  we  see  the  mountains, 
hills  and  valley,  spotted  with  cattle  and  sheep  paths, 
near  enough  together  to  let  these  natural  engineers 
appropriate  the  wild  oats.  Here  in  the  hills  grow 
that  wild  fruit,  the  manzanita  (or  little  apple)  which 
the  Indians  gather  to  give  a relish  to  their  dry 
acorns.  Here,  beneath  the  lofty  mountain  ranges, 
in  their  productive  and  beautiful  foot-hills  and  in 
their  bewitching  valleys,  sleeps  the  gold  yet  to  be 
found.  There  we  look  off  over  the  great  Sacramento 
Yalley  and  the  Coast  Range  of  mountains,  where  the 
great  ocean  is  kissing  their  base.  On  the  western 
slope  of  these  mountains,  amid  the  fogs,  is  found  that 
remarkable  tree,  the  “redwood,”  from  which  boards 
are  often  made  six  feet  wide.  It  is  a species  of  ce- 
dar, and  is  used  more  for  building  purposes  than  all 
other  kinds  of  wood  in  the  country. 

St-ill  beyond,  in  the  ocean  ar9  several  islands,  some 
the  home  of  birds,  from  which  large  quantities  of 
eggs  are  taken  to  the  city.  Others,  inhabited  by 


450  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

that  uncouth  monster  the  sea-lion — weighing,  when 
full  grown,  from  two  to  five  thousand  pounds.  We 
saw  on  the  rocks,  not  far  from  the  shore,  many  of 
these  awkward  creatures  basking  in  the  sun — some 
appear  pugnacious  and  very  noisy. 

Some  of  the  islands  furnish  superior  advantages 
for  keeping  large  flocks  of  sheep,  growing  the  very 
best  of  wool.  I was  told  that  one  man  had  a flock 
of  two  hundred  thousand. 

The  coast  range  of  mountains  holds  the  great  Pacific 
in  its  place,  or  rather  several  ranges  of  these  moun- 
tains, parallel  with  each  other.  This  range  is  from 
two  to  ten  thousand  feet  high,  and  from  thirty  to 
forty  miles  wide.  Between  this  and  the  Nevadr 
mountain  ranges  lies  the  great  Sacramento  Valley 
about  five  hundred  miles  long  by  fifty  wide. 

This  now  valley  no  doubt  was  once  a great  inland 
ocean,  which  in  process  of  time  broke  through  the 
coast  range  in  the  centre  of  the  State,  by  wearing  a 
channel  into  the  ocean  over  a mile  wide.  This  open- 
ing is  known  as  the  “ Golden  Gate.”  Why  this  nar- 
row gorge,  from  the  bay  to  the  ocean,  should  receive 
this  name  long  before  the  discovery  of  gold,  was  a 
study,  for  it  had  nothing  to  do  with  the  discovery  of 
gold.  I could  get  no  other  theory  than  this  : As  the 
coast  is  approached  from  the  ocean,  the  entrance  has 
the  appearance  of  opening,  like  a gate;  and  as  we 


bird’s  EYE  VIEW  OP  CALIFORNIA.  4 'A 

look  in  through  the  heavy  fog  which  fills  the  open- 
ing, we  see  the  yellow  sunlight  resting  upon  the 
fog,  brilliant  and  golden — concentrated  in  the  nar- 
rowest part  of  the  channel,  where  the  fort  stands — 
looking  in  the  fore  part  of  the  day  like  a great  pillar 
of  fire  hanging  over  the  gate,  and  hence  the  name. 
Subsequent  discoveries  and  developments  in  the  coun- 
try, have  shown  it  truly  to  be  a Golden  Gate — the 
entrance  to  untold  treasure. 

Near  the  equator  in  the  Pacific,  as  in  the  Atlantic, 
starts  a river  in  the  ocean.  It  flows  up  the  coast 
of  China,  till  it  gets  to  Behring’s  Straits;  into  these 
it  rushes  and  melts  the  icebergs,  so  that  there  are 
none  in  the  Pacific.  In  doing  this,  it  becomes  very 
cold,  and  turns  down  in  the  direction  of  our  coast. 
It  goes  to  the  Alentian  Islands,  where  a part  is  de- 
flected and  makes  towards  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
making  temperate  what  otherwise  would  be  unin- 
habitable. A part  of  this  now  immensely  chilled 
river  flows  down  along  the  coast  of  Oregon  and 
California.  As  these  colder  waters  come  near  the 
coast,  they  are  forced  up  to  the  surface  and  chill  the 
vapors  in  the  air,  condenses  them,  and  in  the  night 
cause  a heavy  fog,  which  hangs  along  the  coast  of 
California.  Why  does  not  this  sea-fog  cover  the 
land  ? Because  it  never  rises  over  one  thousand 
feet;  and  as  the  coast  mountains  are  much  higher 


452  ' BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

than  this,  the}7  keep  it  back.  But  at  the  Golden 
Gate,  where  there  is  an  opening,  having  a chance,  it 
does  roll  in  every  day  and  envelops  San  Francisco 
from  about  the  middle  of  the  afternoon  till  towards 
nine  o’clock  in  the  morning. 

The  inquiry  has  often  been  made,  Why  this  unu- 
sual fog  in  and  about  the  city,  and  no  where  else  in- 
side the  coast  range?  But  there  is  another  reason 
why  the  fog  does  not  go  in  and  possess  the  land. 
The  great  valley  spoken  of  is  the  laboratory  of  the 
State.  There  the  sun  comes  down  in  its  strength, 

i . 

and  the  heated,  thirsty  air  rises,  and  drinks  up  all 
the  moisture  the  ocean  can  send  inland,  long  before 
it  can  become  a rain-cloud.  But  there  are  unseen 
mists  coming  in  from  the  ocean  during  the  summer, 
as  the  wind  always  blow7s  from  the  west  at  that  sea 
son  of  the  year.  This  more  heated  atmosphere  min 
gles  with  the  colder,  which  drives  down  over  the 
snowy  Nevadas,  making  the  nights  always  cool,  and 
refreshing  to  man  or  beast. 

The  stranger,  on  visiting  California,  is  somewhat 
bewildered.  He  finds  everything  different  from  what 
he  expected,  or  ever  saw  before.  He  seemed  to  have, 
either  designedly  or  accidentally,  alighted  on  another 
different  country,  where  Nature  has  conspired  to 
confound  and  enjoy  his  confusion. 

How  different  from  the  Atlantic  States.  Here  the 


bird’s  EYE  VIEW  OF  CALIFORNIA.  453 

winds  change  oftener  than  we  have  days.  There 
they  blow  in  one  direction  six  months  of  the  year,  and 
then  the  opposite  for  the  other  six  months.  Here, 
while  the  earth  is  frozen  down  and  covered  by  deep 
snows,  there  they  have  no  winter,  and  are  plowing 
and  sowing  the  seed,  to  grow  unto  the  early  harvest 
the  finest  of  wheat.  Here  we  have  storms  and  show- 
ers ; there  they  have  no  rain  in  summer — only  in  win- 
ter. Here  our  trees  lose  their  foliage  ; there  they 
wear  their  green  covering  the  whole  year.  Here 
we  have  the  thick  greensward  ; there  they  have  no 
turf.  Here  the  farmer,  with  much  labor  and  care, 
harvests  his  hay  and  grain  ; there  he  cuts  hay  only 
for  the  market,  and  threshes  his  hundreds,  and  per- 
haps thousands,  of  acres  of  wheat  in  the  field,  throw 
down  the  bags  behind  the  machine  to  lie  until  want- 
ed for  market,  confident  that  neither  storms  or  dews 
will  injure  them.  Here  we  have  several  kinds  of 
wood,  out  of  which  implements  and  tools  cau  be 
made;  there  they  have  no  tree  suitable  for  making 
a wagon,  a plow  or  an  axe-helve.  Hero  everything 
is  small  when  compared  to  the  wonderful  vegetable 
growth  there — so  much  so,  that  one  is  tempted  to 
doubt  his  own  eyes.  Between  the  spurs  of  the  Coast 
Range  are  many  beautiful  and  productive  valleys, 
from  ten  to  a hundred  miles  long.  As  we  stand  on 
the  mountains,  and  look  down  into  the  Napa,  the 


45T  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

Sonoma,  the  Russian  and  the  Santa  Clara  Valleys,  they 
have  the  appearance  of  lakes  changed  into  land. 

These  valleys  are  so  favorable  to  the  sun  that  ev- 
erything grows  and  matures  very  early.  The  farm- 
ers here  harvest  their  crops  about  the  middle  of 
May.  The  refreshing  winds  which  climb  over  the 
Coast  Range  sweep  over  these  valleys,  and  also  fan 
the  foot-hills  of  the  Nevadas.  Generally,  from  about 
the  first  of  May  to  November,  there  is  no  rain  or 
dew  in  California. 

The  grains  have  all  ripened  ; the  grass  has  dried 
up  where  it  grew,  full  of  seed,  making  rich  pasture, 
for  there  is  no  part  of  the  year  when  animals  fatten 
so  much  as  upon  what  we  would  call  the  worthless 
grass  in  the  field,  but  full  of  nourishment  then. 
The  ground  becomes  parched,  and  rests  till  the  fall 
rains.  We  must  wait  till  winter,  when  we  are  deep 
in  the  snows,  to  see  this  Pacific  land  fresh,  luxuriant 
and  beautiful.  February  is  their  month  of  beauty, 
as  June  is  with  us.  Upon  the  uplands,  during  the  dry 
summer,  without  water  vegetation  dies.  With  wa- 
ter, we  see  a fertility,  a beauty  unequaled,  and  hard- 
ly to  be  imagined.  Consequently,  the  windmill  eve- 
ry where,  is  an  indispensable  part  of  every  house,  fur- 
nishing water  for  the  family,  the  gardens  and  for  the 
animals  usually.  The  value  of  the  ranch  is  increas 
ed  very  much  by  having  a stream  of  water  upon  it. 


BIRD'S-EYE  VIEW  OF  CALIFORNIA.  455 

It  is  interesting  to  notice  how  things  will  adapt 
themselves  to  circumstances.  The  trees  and  vege- 
tables here  have  a long  tap  root,  which  penetrates 
the  soil  far  down  after  moisture — enabling  it  to  grow 
without  rain  a longer  time.  Providence  seems  to  so 
constitute  everything  in  this  world  as  to  draw  its 
sustenance  and  natural  life  from  the  earth,  directly 
or  indirectly.  It  is  evident  that  all  the  human  fam- 
ily, all  the  animal  creation,  all  the  fishes  and  all  the 
insect  world,  are  “served  by  the  field.” 

Nature  furnishes  materials,  and  it  is  for  man  to 
appropriate  and  improve  them,  to  turn  nature’s 
wastes  into  gardens  of  utility  and  beauty.  The  popu- 
lation a country  can  feed  and  clothe,  depends  on  her 
capabilities  of  soil  and  climate,  and  not  on  what  her 
mines  will  yield. 

We  have  no  other  State  which  has  so  great  a va- 
riety of  soil  and  climate  as  California,  and  no  State 
which  will  produce  such  a large  variety  of  pro- 
ducts. All  that  is  grown  in  the  temperate  zone  or 
in  the  semi-tropical  climate  will  grow  here,  of  su- 
perior size  and  quality.  The  soil  and  climate  is  so 
generous,  that  the  same  amount  of  labor  will  give 
larger  returns  than  anywhere  else.  Apples  and 
pears  are  often  gathered  the  second  year  from  plant- 
ing the  seed. 

The  rapidity  of  growth  here  will  astonish  an  East- 


456  BEYOND  I HE  WEaT. 

ern  traveler.  Here  we  see  beets  that  will  weigh 
over  a hundred  pounds  each;  onions  at  least  ten 
inches  across  the  top;  cabbages  weighing  eighty 
pounds,  and  the  smaller  vegetables  in  proportion-. 
Fruit  is  raised  so  easily  that  it  has  alow  market. 
The  cars  that  come  up  from  the  Santa  Clara  Valley 
bring  to  San  Francisco  several  tons  of  strawberries 
daily,  and  this  most  delicious  fruit  is  in  the  market 
every  month  in  the  year. 

The  potato  will  give  two  annual  crops,  and  such 
potatoes ! One  would  suppose  they  were  at  least 
two  years  in  growing. 

The  long,  dry  summer  allows  the  farmer  to  har- 
vest his  wheat  and  barley  when  he  chooses,  which 
are  ripe  the  last  of  May  or  the  first  of  June;  but 
do  not  injure  by  shelling  or  otherwise  by  standing 
after  ripening,  as  with  us. 

There  are  many  overgrown  estates  in  California 
which  are  injurious  to  the  prosperity  of  any  country. 
I visited  one  in  San  Joaquin  Valley,  near  Stockton, 
of*  some  twenty  thousand  acres,  sixteen  thousand  of 
which  was  in  wheat  that  year.  To  prepare  the 
ground  the  owner  had  nine  hundred  horses  plowing 
at  the  same  time.  Should  he  get  an  average  crop 
the  sacks  to  put  it  in  would  cost  him  at  least  thirty 
thousand  dollars.  Some  stock-raisers  have  estates 
large  enough  to  keep  a hundred  thousand  head  of 
cattle  upon  them  and  larere  flocks  of  sheen 


BIKl’SEYE  VIEW  OF  CALIFORNIA.  457  * 

These  large  estates  will,  no  doubt,  soon  be  divided 
up  for  the  good  of  the  many.  The  Japanese  uve 
purchased  large  sections  of  land  here,  f >r  the  pur- 
pose of  cultivating  the  mulberry  and  miking  silk. 
They  are,  no  doubt,  the  most  skillful  silk  growers  in 
f e world.  The  climate  and  soil  is  supposed  to-Ve 
admirably  adapted  to  the  business.  They  also  de- 
s gi.  to  undertake  the  cultivation  of  the  tea  plant. 
Every  kind  of  grape  known  on  the  earth’s  surface 
will  giow  here  in  perfection. 

Along  the  Golden  Belt,  in  the  foot-hills  of  the  Ne- 
vadas,  the  whole  length  of  the  State  is  a volcanic 
belt  from  thirty  to  forty  miles  wide,  which  is  exact- 
ly adapted  to  the  wants  of  the  vine.  The  west  coast 
range  has  also  become  celebrated  for  the  fruitful- 
ness of  the  vine.  In  Sonoma  Yalley  are  some  of  the 
largest  vineyards.  The  State  now  produces  over 
seven  millions  gallons  of  wine  annually,  and  the  in- 
crease of  vine  is  at  least  two  millions  a year. 

California  is,  no  doubt,  the  greatest  wine  growing 
region  in  the  world.  Her  wines  have  already  be- 
come celebrated,  and  have  a reputation  over  the 
world  for  their  superior  quality. 

When  the  thousands  were  rushing  to  California  by 
land  and  water  after  shining  gold,  nobody  expected 
to  stay  only  long  enougn  to  obtain  the  desired  treas- 
ure. Nobody  supposed  the  soil  could  be  made  to 


*458  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

produce  anything.  Consequently  this  more  im- 
portant b am  h ul  industry  was  for  a long  time 
neglected.  But  time  passed  on;  necessity  and 
the  usual  quick  observation  and  the  adaptation  of 
our  people  to  circumstances,  soon  learn^  *hem  that 
they  were  not  only  in  a golden  land,  ^ut  also  in  the 
midst  of  a region  unequaled  in  the  world  for  agri- 
cultural productiveness. 

California  is  about  eight  hundred  miles  long  by 
two  hundred  wide.  It  has  two  parallel  mountain 
ranges  its  whole  length.  Much  of  it  is  so  ^feep  and 
broken  that  cultivation  is  impossible.  Yet  it  is  sup- 
posed the  State  can  support  a population  of  twenty 
millions  by  her  own  resources. 

A wise  Providence  seems  to  have  reserved  the 
Pacific  slope  of  this  continent  till  the  Eastern  por- 
' tion  had  become  settled,  and  His  institutions  estab- 
lished and  proven  before  it  should  become  a great 
part  of  our  inheritance,  and  give  to  the  people  of  the 
crowded  hives  of  the  Orient  more  comfortable 
homes. 

San  Francisco  is,  by  her  geographical  position,  by 
her  capital  and  enterprise,  the  Elect  City  of  the 
Pacific  Coast,  as  New  York  is  on  the  Atlantic;  and 
nothing  but  earthquakes  can  prevent  her  prosper- 
ous growth — at  least,  nothing  above  ground.  The 
entrance  from  the  Pacific,  through  the  Golden  Gate 


BIRD’S  EYE  VIEW  OF  CALIFORNIA.  45‘J 

to  the  Bay,  is  directly  east;  then  you  turn  to  the 
south  around  the  Peninsula,  at  the  end  of  which  the 
city  is  located,  on  the  before-mentioned  desolate  sand- 
hills, having  one  of  the  most  capacious  and  safest 
harbors,  large  enough  to  receive  the  ships  of  all  the 
oceans  of  the  world.  Within  a few  years  the  for- 
bidding hills  have  been  graded  down,  and  the  low 
places  filled  up,  till  now  we  see  a great  city  having 
one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  inhabitants,  with  ar- 
chitecture superior  to  many  eastern  cities — nothing 
looks  young  or  unfinished. 

You  are  surprised  at  seeing  a city  looking  so  old 
and  finished.  Capital  centered  here  and  found  profit- 
able investment.  The  city  has  several  miles  of 
very  expensive  wharfage  now  built,  and  steamship 
lines  for  China,  Japan,  Sandwich  Islands  and  Ore- 
gon. She  is  now  a great  commercial  and  manufac- 
turing city.  San  Francisco  is  not  as  agreeable  in 
the  summer  as  the  cities  farther  inland,  but  makes 
compensation  by  having  the  most  enjoyable  winter. 

During  the  summer  the  much  heated,  rarified  air 
back  from  the  coast  rises,  causing  the  setting  in  of  a 
strong  breeze  from  the  ocean,  which  pushes  through 
the  Golden  Gate,  hurries  and  scurries  through  San 
Francisco  filled  with  dust,  more  especially  during 
the  middle  of  the  day  when  the  heat  is  the  strong- 
est. This  steady,  pervading  wind  inland  from  the 


460  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

ocean,  ccols  the  otherwise  unendurable  heat  in  the 
valleys,  and  gives  to  California  her  agreeable  sum- 
mer season.  While  the  isothermal  line  on  the  At- 
lantic slope  sweeps  down  from  the  ice-bound  Arc- 
tic seas,  freeziug  and  covering  the  land  with  deep 
snows ; whereas  on  the  Pacific  slope  in  winter  the 
wind  currents  are  from  the  equatorial  regions  north, 
warming  the  coast  country,  so  that  while  we  are  fro- 
zen down  they  are  ploughing  and  sowing,  to  grow 
the  best  wheat  in  the  world. 

The  warm  breezes  from  the  south  give  to  Califor- 
nia her  mellow  and  most  agreeable  winter  season. 
Probably  owing  to  the  climate,  children  here  have 
the  fairest,  fullest  and  greatest  physical  develop- 
ment. No  where  else  can  they  be  found  developing 
such  a physical  manhood.  It  can  hardly  be  other 
wise,  where  children  can  live  out  in  the  open  air  the 
most  of  the  year,  and  have  a thousand  incentives  to 
effort.  There  will  grow  up  in  this  country  a race 
of  men,  physically,  such  as  has  no  where  else  been 
found.  There  is  one  kind  of  human  element  in  Cal- 
ifornia, of  too  much  importance  to  this  country  to 
be  passed  unnoticed. 

When  the  discovery  of  the  gold  mines  went  out 
over  the  eastern  world,  the  packed,  starving  multi- 
tudes of  ancient  China  saw  some  deliverance,  and 
soon  thousands  of  them  were  scattered  over  Califor* 


bird’s-eye  VIEW  OF  CALIFORNIA.  461 

ilia,  digging  gold  and  doing  various  other  kinds  of 
work,  doing  nearly  all  the  domestic  work  of  the 
country — and  doing  it  well — the  very  best  substitute 
for  female  labor.  Their  labor  was  indispensable 
from  the  very  first.  Had  it  not  been  for  them,  Cal- 
ifornia could  not  have  been  made  the  great  State  she 
is  to  day — they  and  the  country  were  benefited  by 
their  coming.  When  the  railroad  was  to  be  built 
they  stood  ready  to  do  the  work  by  thousands. 

The  better  they  are  known,  the  more  their  labor 
is  demanded.  They  seem  to  be  contented  and  hap- 
py here.  Yet,  not  one  of  them  has  signified  his 
intention  to  become  a citizen,  notwithstanding  the 
State  imposes  a tax  on  him  for  mining,  of  four  dol- 
lars a month,  which  he  could  save  if  he  were  a citi- 
zen. The  longer  I remained  among  them,  the  more 
favorably  was  I impressed  with  their  usefulness. 

There  is  such  an  amount  of  human  life  in  China, 
that  many  of  them  live  half  starved  from  generation 
to  generation,  and  become  diminutive — not  larger 
than  the  average  of  our  females.  Yet  John,  (they 
are  called  by  that  name  here,)  is  quite  strong,  en- 
during, active,  quick  to  learn,  quick  to  imitate,  mild 
in  disposition,  kindly  disposed,  industrious,  willing, 
economical — can  live  on  very  little,  and  will  use  that 
little  to  the  very  best  advantage  for  himself  or  for 
his  employer.  A certain  class,  mostly  foreigners 


•ICli  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

themselves,  declared  that  the  Chinaman  should  not 
come  here ; but  they  might  as  well  go  down  to  the 
Golden  Gate  and  order  the  tide  to  stay  out,  with  the 
Pacific  Ocean  behind  it.  Nothing  can  keep  back 
the  starving  population  in  China,  from  going  where 
there  is  plenty  of  labor.  Labor  will  go  where  it  is 
needed  and  paid  the  best — this  is  in  accordance  with 
immutable  laws.  They  are  now  doing  nearly  all  the 
work  in  the  California  factories,  at  one  dollar  per 
day,  and  they  have  proven  to  be  superior  workmen. 
Their  labor  is  needed — let  them  come. 

But  some  say  they  will  come  here  in  such  num- 
bers as  ultimately  to  control  the  country.  I have  no 
fears  of  this.  The  Anglo  Saxon  race  having  founded 
and  made  this  country  what  it  is,  with  their  original 
traits  of  character  to  control,  to  govern,  will  never 
transfer  the  control  of  this  country  to  another  race. 

No  other  people  in  the  world  would  or  could  have 
gone  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  and  established  them- 
selves, made  governments  and  planted  their  home 
institutions  so  peacefully,  so  permanently,  so  pros- 
perously. Our  people  truly,  in  their  quiet  way,  are 
the  most  successful  colonizers  of  the  earth.  No  na- 
tion is  so  sure  to  impress  itself  on  mankind,  upon 
whatever  it  undertakes,  as  ours;  and  I have  no  mis- 
givings as  to  the  power  which  will  control  this  coun- 
try in  the  future'as  in  the  past.  There  are  other 


BIRDSEYE  VIEW  OF  CALIFORNIA.  463 

places,  we  have  not  space  to  notice,  in  California, 
which  the  traveler  should  not  fail  to  visit. 

He  should  by  all  means  take  the  steamer  at  San 
Francisco,  down  the  coast,  and  get  an  idea  of  Lower 
California,  the  land  of  the  angels,  a region  of  coun- 
try larger  than  any  one  of  the  New  England  States, 
as  yet  but  little  developed  ; where  are  the  fertility, 
the  beauty,  (as  God  made  it,)  the  fields  of  the  tropics, 
where  enterprise  will  find  many  sources  of  wealth  ; 
where  wealth  may  sleep  in  the  lap  of  beauty  ; a coun- 
try which  can  be  made  a garden  fair  as  Eden.  Here 
are  the  refreshing  rains  at  all  seasons  of  the  year  ; 
the  land  of  sunshine  and  showers,  giving  a constant, 
luxuriant,  vegetable  growth  the  whole  year.  Here 
the  strawberry  plant  yields  its  fruit  every  month  of 
the  year.  Here  nature  seems  to  have  concentrated 
more  of  that  which  goes  to  make  up  the  sum  total 
of  the  comforts  of  human  life,  than  anywhere  else  in 
our  sunset  land.  Life  here  is  one  continuous  sum- 
mer, without  excessive  heat  ; the  cool  sea  breeze 
comes  in  to  cool  the  heat,  while  the  warm  breezes 
from  the  south  drives  winter  far  away. 

Those  who  go  to  the  Pacific  Coast  to  find  new 
homes,  will  find  this  region  healthful  and  of  the  great- 
est fertility.  We  know  of  no  place  where  nature 
has  been  more  liberal ; where  more  can  be  obtained 
with  so  little  effort.  Everything  seems  generous — 
liberal  to  a remarkable  degree. 


4(54  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

Previous  to  the  Mexican  war,  we  knew  California 
only  by  name — a far-off,  unknown  land  ; but  little 
this  side  of  where  the  sun  goes  down  in  the  great 
ocean — which  tribes  of  degraded  Indians  occupied  ; 
while  her  great  mountain  ranges,  with  their  majes- 
tic forests  stood  sentinel,  while  the  extensive  and 
beautiful  valleys  were  listening  to  hear  the  tread  of 
coming  footsteps,  from  the  East  and  the  West,  for  an- 
other people  wTere  on  the  way,  whose  indomitable 
energy  would  soon  move  out  imbecility,  and  the 
country  begin  the  fulfillment  of  her  destiny — but  not 
till  fearful  battles  had  been  fought  was  the  question 
settled  as  to  who  should  own  the  land  of  gold. 

The  American  flag,  as  usual,  triumphed,  which 
gave  confidence  and  safety  to  all  nations.  Soon  af- 
ter followed  the  discovery  of  untold  wealth.  Ex- 
citement ran  unbridled.  Such  a rush  for  golden 
land  is  unparalleled.  The  new  born  had  no  infant 
life  or  youth,  but  stood  up  full  grown  before  Con- 
gress for  admission  as  a State.  California  came — the 
fairest  daughter  of  the  Pacific — with  her  garments 
trimmed  with  gold  ; none  could  refuse  her — not  one. 
As  the  result,  we  soon  have  a full-grown  State,  not 
fully  developed,  but  meritorious,  and  the  Republic 
extended  between  the  two  oceans. 

The  wonderful  productiveness  of  the  mines  gave 
confidence  and  held  the  Government  steady,  as  her 


BIKD’s-EYE  VIEW  OF  CALIFORNIA.  465 

paper  credit  extended  during  our  late  war,  unparal- 
leled in  the  annals  of  the  human  race.  The  great 
fact  was  before  the  people,  that  untold  treasure  of 
gold  and  silver  was  laid  away  until  called  for  in  our 
Pacific  land,  on  the  surface  and  beneath  the  ground, 
which  gave  hope  when  all  seemed  lost,  bj  the  convul- 
sions of  cruel  war.  But  as  time  passes,  government 
credit  grows  stronger  ; the  Old  Ship  moves  on  stead- 
ily to  her  moorings  again,  because  she  is  balasted 
with  gold.  The  discovery  of  gold  in  California  gave 
a stimulous  to  every  department  of  business,  advanc- 
ed civilization  at  home  and  abroad,  and  stirred  up 
oid  nations  to  seek  more  comfortable  homes,  by  hav- 
ing more  profitable  employment. 

An  overruling  Providence  has  a time  for  all  things. 
The  discovery  of  the  valuable  metals  on  the  Pacific 
Coast  seems  so  timely — just  when  mankind  could  be 
made  richer  without  becoming  vain — just  when  the 
world  needed  more  coin  the  most ; when  people 
could  have  everything  better  ; when  they  could  have 
silver  dishes,  and  not  be  as  proud  as  our  ancestors 
were  with  their  shining  pewter. 

After  the  before  unknown  treasures  of  the  Pacific 
part  of  the  Continent  were  made  known,  the  world 
seemed  to  rise  up  for  a new  race  in  human  progress  ; 
the  foundation  of  human  comforts  and  enjoyments 
were  largely  extended,  and  the  world  moved  ahead 


4(56  BEYOND  THE  WEST. 

within  the  last  twenty  years  in  Christian  civiliza- 
tion farther  than  in  any  previous  century. 

Nature  has  done  much  to  make  this  sunset  land  of 
ours  a home  for  the  different  families  of  men,  and  give 
her  a place  among  the  other  States  of  the  Union  of 
so  much  importance.  We  see  a great  future  for  this 
part  of  our  land — far-reaching  in  results  to  the  hu- 
man family,  for  both  hemispheres.  Here  the  people 
from  the  East  and  from  the  West  meet — here  they 
unite  their  interests.  It  would  seem  to  be  the  plan 
of  Infinite  Wisdom,  to  bring  the  more  feeble  races 
of  men  here  through  the  Ocean  Gateway,  where  thpy 
might  learn  His  purposes,  and  have  the  benefit  of 
a higher  civilization.  There  is  no  nationality  on 
earth  so  certain  to  impress  itself  upon  weaker  races, 
as  the  American.  Christianity  and  civilization,  those 
twin  sisters  of  a birth  divine,  which  started  where 
Eden  bloomed,  have  been  marching  together  all 
through  the  ages,  and  all  round  the  globe  into  this 
fair  land,  the  utmost  part  of  the  West. 

Here,  on  tf  is  western  margin  of  the  globe,  our  peo- 
ple have  found  a heritage  which  rivals  the  land  of 
promise,  as  described  by  the  Prophet : “ A land  of 
brooks,  of  water,  of  fountains  and  depths,  that  spring 
out  of  the  valleys  and  hills;  a land  of  wheat  and  bar- 
ley, and  vines  and  fig  trees,  and  pomegranates ; a 
land  of  oil,  olive  and  honey;  a land  in  which  thou 


bird’s  EYE  VIEW  OF  CALIFORNIA.  467 

shall  eat  bread  without  scarceness;  thou  shalt  not 
lack  anything  in  it;  a land  whose  stones  are  iron,  and 
outot  whose  hills  thou  mayest  dig  brass,”  a delinea- 
tion of  California,  the  offspring  of  Divine  appoint- 
ment. 

Asia  first  saw  the  Star  of  Empire  take  its  way 
westward,  when  it  illumed  the  pride  of  Babylon  and 
Ninevah,  and  the  Kingdom  of  Darius.  Europe  next 
grew  radiant  in  its  beams,  when  it  gleamed  on  the 
darkness  of  Greece  and  Rome,  and  lit  up  the  mod- 
ern powers  in  its  rich  effulgence.  Then  it  traveled 
across  the  ocean,  to  pour  its  greatest  and  latest  splen- 
dor down  upon  America  with  a pervading  glory,  ever 
spreading  on  across  the  Continent,  until  its  mission 
was  accomplished,  and  it  fell  on  California — the  Em- 
pire of  the  West. 

The  remembrance  of  many  scenes  and  experien- 
ces in  our  travels  over  this  other  half  of  our  heritage, 
will  ever  form  one  of  the  pleasant  memories  of  life. 
No  country  more  grand,  varied  and  magnificent — a 
union  of  that  which  is  great  and  imposing — when 
seen  as  God  made  it. 

We  terminate  our  travel  with  enlarged  views  of 
the  Pacific  part  of  our  country.  I would  that  you, 
kind  reader,  and  all  our  people, could  worship  before 
its  remarkable  Nature — without  it  none  can  have  an 
adequate  knowledge  of  this  country — of  our  extend- 


468 


BEYOND  THE  WEST. 


ed  domain  ; of  our  developed  and  undeveloped  re* 
sources;  of  the  future  home  ot  millions,  bound  to- 
gether by  a common  interest  of  Divine  love  and  hu- 
man brotherhood,  from  Ocean  to  Ocean ; but  one 
great  Nation,  one  Government,  one  Glorious  Flag, 
one  Noble  Destiny 


APPENDIX. 

CLIMATE  OP  THE  PACIFIC  COAST. 

The  causes  of  the  peculiar  (unlike  elsewhere)  cli- 
mates of  our  western  coasts  are  still  not  wholly 
known.  Careful  investigations  of  the  Government 
geographical  surveys  in  the  mountain  ranges,  and 
the  observations  of  Government  officers  on  the  coast 
and  at  the  military  stations,  have  given  us  some  im- 
portant facts  which  aid  somewhat  in  explaining  them; 
but  we  shall  have  to  wait  a few  years  the  basis  of  a 
41  Science  of  Climate”  tor  the  Pacific  coast,  before  they 
can  be  satisfactorily  explained.  That  which  is  the 
most  essential  is  as  yet  the  least  known  and  deter 
mined — the  marine  currents  of  the  Pacific  Ocean — 
which  have  a vast  influence  in  determining  the  cli- 
mates of  its  coasts.  Every  intelligent  traveler  will 
be  convinced  that  there  is  a mysterious  something 
in  the  climate  of  this  coast,  which  is  remarkably 
bracing  and  invigorating,  which  cannot  be  properly 
explained  by  its  equability,  its  temperature,  or  its 
dryness.  Whether  it  is  occasioned  by  that  fortu- 
nate mixture  of  oceanic  and  continental  climates 
which  characterizes  this  coast,  or  from  undiscovered 
causes,  future  investigation  must  determine. 


470  APPENDIX. 

In  this  brief  account  of  the  climates  of  the  Pacific 
coast,  we  shall  only  attempt  to  give  the  facts  which 
are  known,  but  as  yet  have  not  been  put  together. 

The  general  impression  of  intelligent  people  in  the 
Atlantic  States  is,  that  the  Northern  Pacific  coast  is 
a most  disagreeable,  cold,  half-barren  region,  pos- 
sessing little  or  no  capacities  for  production  or  de- 
velopment, which  is  far  from  the  truth. 

Our  northern  possessions  on  the  Pacific,  and  of 
British  America,  and  a vast  tract  lying  eastward 
and  extending  far  to  the  north,  are  capable  of  pro- 
ducing the  ordinary  grains  and  fruits  of  a temperate 
climate,  and  support  a large  population,  as  much  so 
as  any  part  of  Northern  Europe.  Starting  as  far  north 
as  Alaska,  where  the  mean  annual  temperature  is 
82  deg.,  the  same  as  that  of  the  north  coast  of  L>  ke 
Superior,  and  is  several  degrees  farther  to  the  Noi  'h, 
and  yet  equally  as  warm,  should  we  come  down  to 
Sitka,  (from  which  the  ice  used  in  California  is 
brought,)  we  have  the  summer  of  Norway,  (55  deg. 
nean);  and  crossing  the  coast  mountains  to  the  inte- 
vior  country,  more  especially  on  the  plains,  we  have 
precisely  in  its  latitude  the  sunny  summer  of 
France  (65  deg.  mean.)  There  is  an  immense  re- 
gion in  this  part  of  the  continent,  stretching  as  far 
as  60  deg.  north  latitude,  beyond  Alaska,  capable  of 
producing  the  bread  grains. 


climate  of  the  pacific  coast.  471 

Should  we  still  go  northward,  above  the  latitude 
of  Alaska  and  north  of  the  southernmost  part  of 
Greenland,  we  find  a section  of  Country  near  the 
McKenzie  River  so  mild  in  climate  as  to  have  the 
summer  of  Ireland,  (60  deg.  mean.)  This  agreeable 
summer  climate  extends  from  this  region  southward 
till  it  reaches  Puget’s  Sound,  and  passes  on  to  Los 
Angelos  in  Lower  California,  at  the  latitude  of  Af- 
rica, for  a distance  of  1,500  miles  north  and  south. 
This  very  lemarkable  range  of  a cool  and  mild  sum- 
mer (57  to  60  deg.)  for  such  a distance,  spread  over 
a coast,  is  unknown  elsewhere  in  the  world.  It  is 
evident  that  the  isothermals  are  north  and  south, 
instead  of  east  and  west.  Still,  we  must  remember 
that  along  the  whole  coast,  between  the  coast  ran- 
ges and  the  mountains  of  the  interior,  are  belts  of 
climate  which  are  considerably  different  from  one 
another. 

Should  we  go  south  to  British  America,  in  the 
latitude  of  Hudson’s  Bay  and  Scotland,  we  have  the 
summer  of  France  (65  deg.  mean.)  This  belt  of 
agreeable  summer  climate,  though  interrupted  bv 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  we  will  find  inside  the  coast 
ranges  n'.rwe  reach  Lower  California;  or,  as  if  from 
Scotland  to  Africa,  one  belt  of  delicious  summer  ex- 
tending across  Europe. 

Starting  in  the  latitude  of  Puget’s  Sound,  east- 


472  APPENDIX. 

ward  of  the  mountains,  in  British  America,  we  have 
the  summer  of  Southern  France  and  Northern  Italy 
(70  deg.  mean.)  This  uniformity  of  climate  is  inter- 
rupted by  cross  mountain  ranges,  and  begins  again 
in  the  latitude  of  Astoria,  and  extends  down  through 
Oregon  and  Central  California,  to  the  latitude  of 
Northern  Africa.  This  is  the  region,  in  its  central 
portion,  of  the  vine,  the  fig  and  the  olive. 

Puget's  Sound  has,  on  its  northern  coast,  the  cli- 
mate of  Ireland  and  England  throughout  the  year,  or* 
an  annual  temperature  of  50  deg.  mean. 

Southern  California,  including  a region  above  the 
Gulf  of  California,  for  several  hundred  miles,  has  the 
mean  annual  temperature  of  Northern  Africa,  (70 
deg.)  Again,  if  we  consider  the  climates  of  the 
South,  we  have  the  summer  temperature  of  Algeria 
(80  deg.)  prevailing  through  the  California  Peninsula. 

We  meet  with  a formidable  temperature  in  the 
Arizona  Desert.  One  valley  near  the  Colorado  and 
the  Gila  has  the  summer  of  the  hottest  districts  of 
Africa,  (90  deg.  mean,)  and  sometimes  enjoys  a tem- 
perature hardly  surpassed  anywhere, — the  ther- 
mometer at  times  indicating  116  deg.  in  the  shade, 
and  averaging  over  100  deg.  for  a month  qt  a time. 

Our  observations,  thus  far,  are  those  of  summer; 
but  if  we  examine  the  winter  temperature,  we  dis- 
cover that  the  winter  of  Ireland,  England,  Western 


PELICAN  ISLAND 


CLIMATE  OF  THE  PACIFIC  COAST.  473 

France,  Northern  Italy,  and  Asia  Minor,  (40  deg. 
mean,)  commences  at  Vancouver’s  and  goes  down 
through  Western  Oregon,  following  the  mountain 
ranges  down  through  California. 

San  Francisco  enjoys  the  winter  climate  of  Charles- 
ton, (50  deg.  mean.)  The  climate  changes  but  very 
little  inside  the  coast  range  all  the  way  down  to 
the  lower  Golorado  River.  The  most  remarkable  fea- 
ture of  the  California  coast  climate, is  its  equability. 
The  range  of  temperature  in  winter,  for  four  years 
of  observation,  was  4 deg.  The  range  in  San  Fran- 
cisco, between  January  and  July,  was  only  8 deg. 
while  in  Washington,  for  the  same  period,  it  was 
44  deg.  The  cool  air  from  the  ocean,  through  what 
may  be  called  the  keyhole  of  the  State,  the  “ Golden 
Gate,”  diffuses  itself  through  the  country  in  all  direc- 
tions. I have  felt  this  breeze, 'regularly  every  morn- 
ing at  about  11  o’clock,  far  amid  the  Sierras,  a hun- 
dred miles  away,  in  valleys  facing  the  west. 

In  and  about  San  Francisco^  it  is  the  constant  in* 
coming  wind  which  modifies  and  makes  the  remark- 
able eqability  of  climate  Thick  clothes  are  neces- 
sary the  whole  year,  and  yet  many  families  never 
have  a fire  in  their  grates  during  the  entire  year. 
However  warm  the  day  begins,  about  10  o’clock, 
every  person  is  glad  of  thick  clothing.  The  sum- 
mer is  considered  the  most  unpleasant,  season.  The 


APPENDIX. 


474 

winter  is  quite  like  an  English  summer,  showery  out 
delightful.  The  wind  currents  from  the  sea  begin 
in  the  morning  and  gradually  increase  till  midday, 
and  attain  their  maximum  force  between  two  and 
three  o’clock  P.  M.,  afterward  dying  away  to  a per 
feet  calm  at  sunset.  Soon  after,  the  atmospheric 
currents  begin  to  come  down  from  ttie  snow-capped 
Sierras  towards  the  ocean,  imparting  to  the  nights 
an  agreeable  and  exhilarating  coolness,  for  at  night 
the  land  rapidly  cools  while  the  sea  retains  its  nor- 
mal temperature. 

Several  valleys  north  of  San  Francisco,  in  the 
coast  range,  such  as  Sonoma,  Napa,  Peteluma,  and 
others,  all  the  way  up  to  the  Russian  River,  have 
a most  delightful  climate.  The  sun  is  warm,  but  in 
the  afternoon  the  sea  breeze  from  the  Golden  Gate 
tempers  the  atmosphere,  and  the  evenings  and  nights 
are  very  agreeable.  The  country  most  resembling 
California  in  climate  is  Syria;  and  yet  that  favored 
land,  though  abounding  in  the  most  delicious  grapes, 
has  never  made  a first  class  wine.  The  excessive 
heat  and  rarefication  of  climate  in  California  seems 
to  intensify  the  essential  oils,  which  are  the  base  of 
odors,  and  thus  produce  the  agreeable  flavor  which 
distinguishes  the  wines  of  this  favored  region. 

All  odors  and  oils  are  strengthened  by  this  won- 
derful climate,  which,  with  the  application  of  water. 


CLIMATE  OF  THE  PACIFIC  COAST.  475 

makes  one  great  hot  bed  and  pleasure  ground  of  the 
earth,  as  is  granted  by  a bountiful  Nature  to  the 
hand  of  man.  There  is  no  climate  in  Europe  or  the 
Eastern  States,  and  very  few  soils,  that  are  like 
those  of  California.  The  conditions  are  essentially 
different,  and  what  would  be  adapted  to  our  circum- 
stances might  be  unadapted  to  these.  Such  is  the 
wonderful  quality  of  nature  here,  and  the  remark- 
able energy  of  our  people  in  this  invigorating  cli- 
mate, that  they  undertake  and  imagine  beforehand, 
however  inexperienced  they  maybe,  that  they  know 
it  all;  consequently  many  disappointments  are  the 
result  of  too  hasty  efforts.  With  a sun  as  of  Italy, 
a coast  wind  cool,  and  an  air  as  crisp  and  dry  as  that 
of  the  high  Alps,  people  work  on  without  much  re- 
laxation or  excessive  fatigue,  and  can  accomplish  as 
much  as  double  the  number  elsewhere.  The  temp- 
tation for  men  to  over-exercise  is  excessive;  they 
have  none  of  those  necessary  resting  spells  which 
the  “ heated  terms”  on  the  Atlantic  require  of  our 
hard  working  citizens,  and  fewer  of  the  necessary 
vacations  which  Nature  enforces  in  the  diseases  of 
our  changeable  climate. 

We  have  often  thought  that  if  an  intelligent  stu- 
dent of  Nature,  from  our  Atlantic  slope,  were  sud- 
denly dropped  down,  blindfolded,  on  the  Pacific 
coast,  in  valley  or  on  mountain,  he  would  know  as 


476  APPENDIX. 

soon  as  he  could  look  around,  that  he  was  not  on  this 
coast  or  in  Europe,  but  in  a different  country  from 
either — the  Pacific  west  combining  the  elements  of 
several  countries,  blended  agreeably  together,  mak- 
ing a soil  and  climate  as  near  perfection  for  the  use 
of  man  as  he  can  attain  without  enervation.  In  all 
countries,  of  all  human  conditions  next  to  civiliza- 
tion aDd  its  advantages,  the  most  important  is  cli- 
mate; perhaps  for  individual  happiness,  it  is  more 
essential  than  all  other  material  circumstances. 

Examining  further  the  particular  characteristics 
of  the  Pacific  climates,  a remarkable  feature  is  the 
variety  of  climates  within  a breadth  of  200  miles  in 
California.  One  maybe  enjoying  a very  pleasant  June 
on  the  coast,  say  with  a mean  temperature  of  57  deg.; 
he  may  travel  east  in  some  places  not  more  than  150 
miles,  and  pass  through  several  successive  belts  of 
climate,  corresponding  with  the  summers  of  France 
Northern  Italy,  Spain  and  Algeria,  and  at  Fort  Miller 
he  encounters  a mean  temperature  of  108  deg.,  the 
heats  of  interior  Africa.  Then  again,  he  has  but  to 
travel  a few  miles  to  the  snows  and  frosts  of  the 
Sierras;  so  that  within  a breadth  of  two  hundred 
miles  one  will  experience  almost  every  belt  of  the 
world’s  climate. 

Again,  comparing  the  temperature  of  places  on 
the  Pacific  with  European,  we  discover  that  San 


climate  of  the  pacific  coast.  477 

Francisco  lias  the  annual  temperature  of  Bordeaux 
and  of  Constantinople,  but  with  much  more  uni- 
formity of  climate.  Its  spring,  about  54  deg.,  is 
milder  than  that  of  any  other  city,  except  Cardiz  or 
Lisbon.  Its  summer  (69  and  57  deg.)  i3  less  warm, 
and  its  winter  season  more  genial,  than  that  of  Bor- 
deaux, Madrid,  or  Constantinople.  Monterey  has 
the  annual  temperature  of  Toulouse  or  Cardiz. 

Los  Angelos,  which  has  a spring  equal  in  warmth 
(74  deg.)  to  the  summer  of  Madrid,  has  an  autumn 
(56  deg.)  as  moderate  as  that  of  Southern  France. 

The  climate  of  California,  taking  the  year  through, 
is  a dry  one;  the  summer,  from  the  middle  of  May 
till  November,  being  usually  without  rain,  and  the 
winter  is  only  what  may  be  called  a showery  season. 
The  annual  rain-fall  is  about  22  inches,  %which  is 
nearly  the  same  as  4;hat  of  Syria  and  Paris,  while 
that  of  the  Atlantic  coast  reaches  42  inches.  The 
annual  rain-fall  increases  steadily  up  the  coast.  At 
Fort  Yuma  the  ^ain-fall  is  only  3.15  incheg,  and  also 
on  the  southern  coast  of  Lower  California.  Farther 
up  the  coast,  at  Los  Angelos,  the  fall  is  9.7  inches; 
at  San  Diego,  10.43;  at  Fort  Vancouver,  Oregon, 
47.38;  at  Astoria,  86.35;  and  at  Sitka,  89.94  inches. 
Frost  seldom  penetrates  the  ground  anywhere  near 
this  coast,  and  it  never  snows  at  Astoria;  andr  be  it 
remembered,  this  place  is  in  the  same  latitude  of 


4,8  appendix. 

the  Lake  Superior  region  and  the  frozen  coast  of 
New  Brunswick.  But  as  we  proceed  inland,  greater 
extremes  of  heat  and  cold  are  experienced.  It  is  to 
the  elevation,  in  fact,  that  the  great  differences  of 
climate  are  due  in  this  region.  Sixty  miles  east  of 
Portland,  in  the  Cascade  Mountains,  it  is  cold  and 
snowy  when  there  is  a warm  rain  at  this  place. 
Snow  falls  on  the  high  Coast  Mountains  of  Oregon 
and  Washington,  while  on  either  side  of  them  there 
is  a heavy  growth  of  perpetual  verdure. 

The  climate  of  the  valleys,  plains  and  mountains 
of  our  Pacific  West  is  such  that  it  is  easy  to  find 
almost  every  modification  of  heat  and  cold,  moisture 
and  dryness,  by  seeking  certain  altitudes  or  depres- 
sions more  or  less  distant  from  the  sea.  The  sunny 
valleys  of  Italy  or  the  glaciers  of  Switzerland  are 
alike  accessible  all  the  year. 

The  currents  of  cold  air  drives  down  like  a great 
river,  overflowing  its  banks  and  spreading  itself 
over  the  whole  country,  drives  down  from  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  Sierras  and  Cascades,  till  it  joins  the 
milder  currents  from  the  Pacific,  and  diffuses  over 
the  whole  country  a mild,  healthy,  invigorating  and 
useful  climate.  The  traveler  from  the  eastern  coast 
will  be  peculiarly  impressed  with  the  purity  of  the 
California  atmosphere  ; he  will  wonder  and  look 
about  him  to  discover  the  causes  of  such  physical 


CLIMATE  OF  THE  PACIFIC  COAST.  479 

intoxication,  such  unusual  buoyancy  of  spirits,  such 
exhilaration  and  pleasure,  anywhere  away  from  the 
coast,  as  to  sleep  out  in  “the  open  air”  with  the 
greatest  comfort,  by  rolling  himself  in  blankets  and 
“ turning  in”  on  the  sand  or  under  a tree.  Many 
laboring  men  in  the  country  still  keep  up  this  old 
camping  habit. 

While  examining  the  phenomena  of  the  peculiar 
climates  on  the  Pacific  coast,  we  meet  with  this  dif- 
ficulty, (as  we  have  before  intimated,)  the  want  of  a 
thorough  observation  of  the  facts,  a proper  investi- 
gation of  the  causes.  The  controlling  cause  is,  with- 
out doubt,  the  remarkable  ocean  currents  that  set 
in  on  that  coast,  but  as  yet  how  little  is  known  of 
these.  We  know  this  much,  however,  that  in  sum- 
mer a large  body  of  cool  water  comes  down  from 
the  Arctic  regions  along  the  coast  of  Brtisb  Ameri- 
ca, Oregon  and  California.  This  great  body  of  cool 
water  is  coldest  near  the  shore;  consequently,  the 
heavy  nightly  fog  which  covers  the  coast  and  pours 
in  through  the  opening  in  the  coast  mountains 
San  Francisco,  enveloping  that  city  nightly.  In 
winter  the  water  along  the  coast  is  about  three  de- 
grees warmer  than  in  summer,  and  is  much  higher 
than  the  temperature  of  the  land,  which,  without 
doubt,  is  one  of  the  principal  causes  of  the  agree- 
able winter  season  along  the  coast  oonntrv. 


480  APPENDIX. 

In  the  summer  months  when  the  sun’s  rays  are 
more  vertical,  the  great  plains  and  deserts  of  East- 
ern Oregon,  Idaho,  Montana,  Nevada  and  California 
became  heated  and  the  air  rarefied;  the  great  body 
of  colder  atmosphere  from  the  neighboring  ocean 
begins  to  drive  itself  into  the  rarefied  spaces,  caus- 
ing that  constant  sea  gale  which,  pouring  over  the 
coast  ranges,  cools  the  interior  country.  But  for 
this,  under  a semi-tropical  sun,  destitute  of  rain,  the 
inner  country  would  be  another  Sahara  desert.  But 
again,  as  the  sun’s  rays  in  winter  become  less  verti- 
cal, and  the  interior  cooler,  at  the  same  time  the 
ocean  (from  some  unexplained  cause)  being  warmer, 
the  sea  winds  cease,  and  the  coast  is  warmer  in  win- 
ter than  in  summer.  The  southeast  and  southwest 
winds  in  winter  being  in  milder  temperature,  from 
the  ocean,  than  that  of  the  land,  are  at  once  con- 
densed, and  the  rainy  season  ensues.  When  the  sun 
returns  northward  again  it  reverses  this,  and  the 
dry  season  follows.  But  why  so  much  more  rain  in 
Oregon  during  the  year  than  in  California  and  Wash- 
ington, and  with  such  southeast  winds?  The  cause 
of  this  is  not  wholly  clear;  but  by  the  return  trades 
in  summer,  and  the  atmosphere  being  milder  than 
on  the  California  coast,  the  air  less  highly  rarefied, 
the  winds  less  violent  and  more  warm,  and  therefore 
more  easily  condensed,  gives  Oregon  much  more 


CLIMATE  OP  THE  PACIFIC  COAST  481 

rain  throughout  the  year.  But  what  all  the  peculi 
arities  of  climate  are  in  Western  Oregon,  to  cause 
such  excessive  rain  there,  when  there  is  such  a want 
of  it  on  either  side,  is  yet  to  be  investigated  and  ex- 
plained. 

The  Pacific  ranges  along  the  whole  coast  naturally 
forn  nterior  climates  peculiar  to  each  location,  dif- 
ferent from  that  of  the  sea-board.  The  further  the 
interior  from  the  influence  of  the  sea  air,  and  the 
nearer  to  the  reflected  heat  from  the  sides  of  the 
mountain  ranges,  the  hotter  they  become.  Some 
places  where  the  sun's  rays  are  concentrated  by  hill- 
sides, and  the  sea  breeze  is  shut  off,  we  find  a tem- 
perature that  surprises  us.  As  at  Fort  Yuma,  where 
the  air  is  wholly  from  interior  deserts,  and  the  latitude 
quite  south,  we  have  one  of  the  hottest  regions  known 
in  the  world.  We  also  find  interior  regions  quite 
northward,  having  the  heat  of  the  tropics  from  the 
same  cause.  All  other  oceans  are  feeble  in  their 
importance,  when  compared  with  that  remarkable 
body  of  water  which  tempers  and  controls  the  inter- 
esting (somewhat  unexplainable)  climate  of  the  Pa- 
cific coast — essentially  it's  own,  and  has  no  exact  cor- 
respondence elsewhere  in  the  world. 

Many  people  in  the  older  States,  since  the  com- 
pletion of  the  Continental  Railway,  are  asking  them- 
selves the  question,  whither  they  can  go  to  better 


482 


APPENDIX. 


their  condition.  To  all  'such  I would  sav,  do  noc 
content  yourself  in  the  less  favored  regions  iu  the 
center  of  the  continent,  but  press  forward  (if  you  are 
energetic)  to  that  country — the  Pacific  coast — where 
the  climate  is  the  very  air  of  labor;  where  the  ama- 
zing natural  resources,  the  wonderful  richness  and 
beauty  of  its  soil  and  climate,  makes  the  greatest 
treasure  (to  those  who  know  how  and  are  willing  to 
find  it)  we  have  in  our  own  territory. 

I have  mentioned  before  the  South  of  California 
and  the  sunny  and  fertile  region  of  Los  Angelos  and 
Santa  Barbra.  A combination  of  circumstances  point 
to  this  region  as  undoubtedly  the  most  desirable 
part  of  the  Pacific  coast  for  the  emigrant.  I fully 
believe  that  a colonial  emigration  of  Yankees  to 
that  portion  of  the  State  could  and  would  make  this 
region  one  of  the  gardens  of  the  world.  They  would 
soon  have  their  “cattle  on  a thousand  hills,”  as  once 
of  Palestine,  and  the  shepherds  leading  their  flocks 
on  the  hills  of  Los  Angelos,  as  once  of  Judea. 

Here  they  would  have  the  best  climate,  amid  or- 
anges, lemons,  almonds,  figs,  olives,  the  rarest  vines, 
and  the  largest  enervating  influence  of  climate  that 
the  Anglo  Saxou  has  ever  enjoyed  The  Jewish 
law  describes  no  more  favored  land  than  this,  into 
which  the  children  of  Israel  were  promised  and  led. 
While  traveling  through  those  vast  regions  east  of 


CLIMATE  OF  THE  PACIFIC  COAST. 


483 

the  Rocky  Mountains,  I have  been  often  reminded 
of  the  old  Bible  descriptions  of  nature  and  scenery 
in  Judea  as  applicable  here. 

There  are  many  striking  resemblances  between 
our  Pacific  coast  and  Syria  ; indeed  the  country 
seems  an  American  Palestine,  where  everything  is 
peculiar  and  somewhat  original.  It  seems  another 
country,  separated  by  barriers — the  oceau  on  one 

side  and  mighty  mountains  on  the  other — from  the 
civilized  world. 

We  can  now  look  forward  t-o  no  very  distant  pe- 
riod, when  our  Imperial  Union  will  have  here  an  em- 
pire of  millions,  the  leading  community  of  the  world, 
on  the  American  shores  of  the  Pacific. 

The  influence  of  climate  and  circumstances  are 
such  in  this  new  world  of  ours,  that  we  can  now 
begin  to  see  growing  up  in  a remote  future  a mix- 
ture of  races,  different  from  each  of  its  elements, 
physically  and  intellectually,  such  as  no  other  coun- 
try has  yet  developed. 

If  you.  kind  reader,  are  still  in  good  humor  with 
yourself,  and  on  the  level  with  me,  after  our  long 
journeyings,  we  will  now  part  on  the  square . 


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